Battery relocation?

[DemonSlayer]

Got an SR, looking at battery relocation. My dad and I did the swap and we have been working on old cars for ages, mostly mustangs. This was our first turbo car and really first modern car we worked on besides tune ups and stuff on the truck. I read lots of threads and from my understanding, best way is to put a 140 amp circuit breaker within 1' of battery, run the cable to the engine bay, put in http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/konfused-3-way-fuse-or-ground-distribution-block-/ with cable in one end, the other end has 1 to starter, 1 to alt, 1 to interior/fuse block. The 2 plugs on that red thingy attached to the positive terminal.

Dad has other ideas, he asks why use fuses? 140 amps is a LOT of power and starter shouldn't be fused. He proposed battery cable from battery to terminal to engine bay where it is attached to a post, like http://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insulated-Battery-Power-Junction/dp/B00784HYI2 then terminal to starter, then solder a terminal on each of those 2 wires that plug into that red doodad and attached to the power junction above. he says, those wires go through the fuse box anyways so why double fuse and 140 amps is so much power that if you draw enough to trip the circuit breaker in the back, your stuff is already jacked.

I didn't know what to say other then the entire internet says to do it the first way! What is wrong with his method? Thanks for the help guys!!!

[thegr8one013]

the purpose of the fuse is incase that long wire going from the trunk ends up wearing off the insulation and grounding it self to the chasses the fuse will pop instead of constantly allowing current to flow and start a fire

[Croustibat]

^^ that
better options are:
1/ don't relocate, unless you are driving in a competitve class, are shooting for the win and want every possible edge (you better be a great driver to feel and use that kind of change too)
2/ use a circuit breaker, not a fuse. If you got for a fuse, get a "slow" one, the starter motor will draw more than 140A the instant it starts
3/ use LiFePo4 batteries - but not the ones sold with a "pbeq" unit. Those are crap.

I am using a lifepo4 battery, it is a 3lbs, 4"x4"x6" box that currently fits at the oem place, while also allowing FMIC piping and washer bottle neck in place. Yet it can output 300A+ continuous, 500A+ peak, and stores 10AH (real 10AH, that is 30AH "pbeq" )

I am going to relocate it ... under the stereo unit :D This will be for a better isolation switch place, and to keep it cooler and away from water than where it is now.