Cranking but No Start

[Slicerwolf]

So anyway after getting a retune on my AEM EMS (another long story in another thread) my car has issues starting. Sometimes it cranks up fine (assuming i completely depress the throttle after a second of letting it crank), other times it just cranks and cranks. So far I've taken it to two shops that are next door to each other (one that specializes in 240s and the other that tunes AEM) and neither can figure out the problem. For history the last owner hydrolocked the car.

Edit: Forgot to mention SR20DET in S14

[Slicerwolf]

Bump with picture of whip 83047

[Slicerwolf]

Also It is getting fuel and spark. The problem has gotten worse in the past months.

[ZX88]

So anyway after getting a retune on my AEM EMS (another long story in another thread) my car has issues starting. Sometimes it cranks up fine (assuming i completely depress the throttle after a second of letting it crank), other times it just cranks and cranks. So far I've taken it to two shops that are next door to each other (one that specializes in 240s and the other that tunes AEM) and neither can figure out the problem. For history the last owner hydrolocked the car.

Edit: Forgot to mention SR20DET in S14

I also have cold starting issues and I am running AEM EMS Series 2. More when its cold. But if the car has been sitting say over night it takes a lot of cranks till its running. Durring the day, turning it on and off, it starts up fine, most of the time after 2-3 cranks. Ive had this issue for like 2 years and cant figure it out.

[Slicerwolf]

I also have cold starting issues and I am running AEM EMS Series 2. More when its cold. But if the car has been sitting say over night it takes a lot of cranks till its running. Durring the day, turning it on and off, it starts up fine, most of the time after 2-3 cranks. Ive had this issue for like 2 years and cant figure it out. Mine generally happens the other way round. It has a harder time starting the longer its been running.

[Devocat]

coolant temp sensor

[Slicerwolf]

coolant temp sensor
Thanks for the input. I actually was just about to order one. It is generally harder to start if I don't let it sit for a while after driving (it's less likely to start after I stop to fill gas than if I'm starting it for the first drive of the day). Knowing my luck it won't be that though.

[jr_ss]

Sounds like your temp correction tables need to be gone through and cleaned up. Do you have a Wideband on the car?

[Slicerwolf]

Sounds like your temp correction tables need to be gone through and cleaned up. Do you have a Wideband on the car?


Yeah I have a wideband, and I didn't tune the car myself (on the AEM) but I think I know the password

[Slicerwolf]

Ok I don't think it's the coolant temp sensor, it was a humid not too hot morning today and it just kept cranking until the battery died and no lights came on. I don't know if I mentioned but most of my problems happened after getting my AEM tuned

[Slicerwolf]

Also the AEM shows timing errors as its cranking (it goes up slowly 13,14,15....) how do I check the CAS?

[Slicerwolf]

New coolant temp sensor didn't fix anything

[jr_ss]

I suggest you take this to a competent tuner. Apparently, whomever tuned your car wasn't as "familiar" with AEM as they say they are. This is one reason I refused to run AEM. They are finicky and it always seems like it takes a dozen or more cranks to get it to fire up.

So like I said above, it seems like you have temperature correction maps out of whack. With a wideband and a laptop, log when you're cranking and see what your AFR's are. If you are rich or lean it'll show up. Find the cells that need to be adjusted and change the coolant correction table. There is one for the Air temp correction table too. Hell while you're at it, you might as well check to make sure all your sensors have the correct calibration tables as that could cause an issue too. If you aren't comfortable doing that, take it to a reputable tuner.

For future projects, I suggest a Nistune or Adaptronics and if you want a full standalone, Haltech. The latter was designed around and to worth with all factory Nissan sensors. There is no need to swap in a CAS wheel to get them to run.

[Slicerwolf]

I suggest you take this to a competent tuner. Apparently, whomever tuned your car wasn't as "familiar" with AEM as they say they are. This is one reason I refused to run AEM. They are finicky and it always seems like it takes a dozen or more cranks to get it to fire up.

So like I said above, it seems like you have temperature correction maps out of whack. With a wideband and a laptop, log when you're cranking and see what your AFR's are. If you are rich or lean it'll show up. Find the cells that need to be adjusted and change the coolant correction table. There is one for the Air temp correction table too. Hell while you're at it, you might as well check to make sure all your sensors have the correct calibration tables as that could cause an issue too. If you aren't comfortable doing that, take it to a reputable tuner.

For future projects, I suggest a Nistune or Adaptronics and if you want a full standalone, Haltech. The latter was designed around and to worth with all factory Nissan sensors. There is no need to swap in a CAS wheel to get them to run.


Thanks for the help I'm going to try to adjust it myself. Do you know how to get to the correction tables on an AEM? Would it go by a different name?

[Slicerwolf]

I retract the statement that it oly starts when cold, that isnt true anymore. Now it isnt even cranking sometimes. With the battery pack connected it doesnt crank, but with a jumper from another car it will. Eveything is a solid maybe.

[SidewaysS13ka]

there could be a wiring issue when either shop hooked up your ems. i would suggest finding a friend that you really trust and having him sit down and cross reference your ems wiring to your ecu bulk head wiring, i would also get a timing light on it when it decides to start one of the times for you and check out how the crank pulley is acting with the light on it. it may be as simple as setting it back to tdc and re timing it, or youll have to chase down which seems to be a really pissed off electrical gremlin.