KA24 wiring/ground issue? help please!

[vinnyjdm]

I'm building my KA-T. It is an 95 (obd1) KA in a 90 (s13 single cam) shell.

I got everything wired up, found a diagram on how to do it. All i've been getting when I try to start it is a click. For a while I thought it was the battery, charged one and got to 12/13 volts. I checked power everywhere and was getting 11/12 volts to every connection!

Finally I found a ground that wasn't getting power and I moved it, I got it to crank but I think the battery started dying out. I moved that ground to the firewall and again it won't crank, just clicks.

the ground is for sure getting voltage now though. The only thing I've noticed different (besides me moving that ground) is that my clock went out (the light still turns on but the actual time is gone) and the AC light went out. Idk how or if this could be related but its the only thing I've noticed that has changed from when it was cranking.

Any ideas of what this bullshit could be? please help!


heres a random pic of my messy project for fun
http://i59.tinypic.com/531bms.jpg

[dbeiler]

Wow! So you wired your own engine yet your electrical knowledge involves checking your grounds using the voltage setting on a multimeter? You live dangerously!

Checking electrical grounds is done with the ohm setting on a multimeter. It is simply a continuity check. Put one test lead on your negative battery terminal, put the other test lead on the car's frame somewhere. You should be getting a solid, unwavering 0.3 ohms or less. Clean the battery cable lugs, clean the paint off your grounding points, whatever it takes till you get a solid reading.

Clicking starter would mean either inadequate voltage at the starter or insufficient ground. Is your engine properly grounded? If you removed the factory ground cable, running from the frame to the manifold (or wherever the S13 cable attaches to) was it replaced with another one?

[vinnyjdm]

Wow! So you wired your own engine yet your electrical knowledge involves checking your grounds using the voltage setting on a multimeter? You live dangerously!

Checking electrical grounds is done with the ohm setting on a multimeter. It is simply a continuity check. Put one test lead on your negative battery terminal, put the other test lead on the car's frame somewhere. You should be getting a solid, unwavering 0.3 ohms or less. Clean the battery cable lugs, clean the paint off your grounding points, whatever it takes till you get a solid reading.

Clicking starter would mean either inadequate voltage at the starter or insufficient ground. Is your engine properly grounded? If you removed the factory ground cable, running from the frame to the manifold (or wherever the S13 cable attaches to) was it replaced with another one?

I checked all the ohms & voltage, everything is good. I replaced all the grounds with nice 8 gauge wire and checked them. all of them work. checked the starter for voltage, its got voltage. I checked fuses and everything and can't find any issues. it's driving me right up the wall!

The only thing that I have noticed that changed from when it cranked the one time is that when it cranked the clock, light for the ac options, and the window wipers were WORKING. Now, the clock backlight works (but the numbers don't show up), but the other things like the ac light, and the window wipers and stuff do not work. And the car won't crank, just clicks.

I'm wondering if there is a fuse that appears to be good that isn't or a ground inside the car that i don't know about that controls these things as well as maybe some ignition power/starter power?

[dbeiler]

I can't offer any assistance on the interior electronics; I'm not familiar with the S13.

Which ground cables did you replace with 8 gauge? You'll need a 0 or 1 gauge for all your ground cables. The alternator ground to frame should be 8 gauge. Everything else requires something larger.

Are you positive the starter is properly grounded? Test the connection with one test lead on the battery negative terminal and the other test lead on the starter casing. Got a solid 0.3 ohms or less? Good!

If you have a good starter ground and a healthy 12 volts at the starter solenoid, and it's only clicking, you need a new starter.

[vinnyjdm]

I can't offer any assistance on the interior electronics; I'm not familiar with the S13.

Which ground cables did you replace with 8 gauge? You'll need a 0 or 1 gauge for all your ground cables. The alternator ground to frame should be 8 gauge. Everything else requires something larger.

Are you positive the starter is properly grounded? Test the connection with one test lead on the battery negative terminal and the other test lead on the starter casing. Got a solid 0.3 ohms or less? Good!

If you have a good starter ground and a healthy 12 volts at the starter solenoid, and it's only clicking, you need a new starter.

0 gauge wire for grounds seems a bit excessive its like 14 or 16 gauge wire from the factory. I got a KA in here

[dbeiler]

I'm talking about the battery ground only. Not the engine or chassis harness.

[jiatuiog]

The alternator ground to frame should be 8 gauge. Everything else requires something larger.http://goo.gl/NQIZBB

[EnnEssEnnKAT]

There are quite a lot of grounds to just generally state that everything needs a wire larger than 8 gauge. That's just overkill for most.

[vinnyjdm]

the grounds I replaced with 8 gauge wire are from the intake manifold to the chassis, and from the back of the engine block (exhaust side) to the fire wall. either way this doesn't matter, just did it to make sure they were good grounds and they are fine.

[EnnEssEnnKAT]

the grounds I replaced with 8 gauge wire are from the intake manifold to the chassis, and from the back of the engine block (exhaust side) to the fire wall. either way this doesn't matter, just did it to make sure they were good grounds and they are fine.



That sounds about right

[vinnyjdm]

Yep. So now I'm here with my motor in my car wired up, grounds all seem to be good, fuses appear to be good, the clock, tail lights, wipers, turn signals, and ac lights aren't working, and when i try to start the car it just clicks and won't crank.

[EnnEssEnnKAT]

I have a similar problem, that's why I chimed in. Mine seems to be ignition switch related because turning the key *really hard* gets it to start most times.