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View Full Version : Timing tensioner not strong enough?!

Cubantunr
03-10-2015, 02:50 PM
OK so it could be that I just reused an old timing chain on my sr20det with built head and stronger springs and that's why it jumped a tooth.
Or is it a common problem that they jump a tooth? I'm wondering if I should buy this mazworx solid tensioner or if I'll be OK with an all new oem tensioner and chain? Opinions? Thanks!
TheRealSy90
03-10-2015, 05:39 PM
If you were using the original s13 sr20 tensioner, I would recommend upgrading to the s14/15 tensioner as it is a stronger/updated design. This was the first thing i did on my redtop when I swapped it in six years ago.
Cubantunr
03-10-2015, 06:20 PM
Well I figure if I'm going to upgrade might as well do a mazworx one since you can set it to a specific tension with or without oil pressure.
Cubantunr
03-10-2015, 06:27 PM
Like this...
And the oem kit states s13/14 so that doesn't help..
Cubantunr
03-10-2015, 09:24 PM
Bump please
shendarss
03-12-2015, 06:47 AM
Well I figure if I'm going to upgrade might as well do a mazworx one since you can set it to a specific tension with or without oil pressure.http://goo.gl/NQIZBB
TheRealSy90
03-12-2015, 08:02 AM
Well I figure if I'm going to upgrade might as well do a mazworx one since you can set it to a specific tension with or without oil pressure.

And how are you going to measure the correct tension?

Like this...
And the oem kit states s13/14 so that doesn't help..

Like I said that's because the s14 version is an upgrade to the s13, thus the s13 version is no longer offered, and the 14 version is offered for both.
Cubantunr
03-12-2015, 08:41 AM
OK so I finally solved the dilemma. Turns out I was using the old style tensioner that came with the motor (1989 on the right) it has the bigger teeth. The one on the left is the new design that everyone sells with finer teeth for more precise tension. The only way you'll get the old style is if the part has been sitting on a shelf for 15 years haha. Nissan redesigned it to have finer teeth for the replacement part. And to adjust the mazworx one you tighten all slack then in between the cams you allow 1/4 inch of slack and tighten jam nut. But I think the new oem style will work just fine with new chain. I'd hate to accidently over tighten the mazworx one! [emoji12]
Cubantunr
03-12-2015, 08:45 AM
Top is old
TheRealSy90
03-12-2015, 09:23 AM
Yep, there's actually an even older version, the original redtop tensioners don't have that hump on the outside end, and are flat instead.

Yeah the mazworx tensioner is just too sketchy for me to use on a street car.
Cubantunr
03-12-2015, 12:13 PM
Yup that's what I thought about mazworx too lol yeah mine had the flat top tensioner p.o.s. lol
slider2828
03-12-2015, 02:47 PM
Why is the mazworx tensioner so risky? I actually installed one...

The only thing I found was that it was a bit short compared to the original tensioner.
Cubantunr
03-12-2015, 04:19 PM
Hmm that's weird. Yeah I wouldn't feel comfortable installing it I'd be too afraid I didn't give it enough slack
TheRealSy90
03-12-2015, 05:25 PM
I just don't like the fact that it is a set tension and doesn't adjust by design. The tension you set it at is going to change as soon as the engine starts up, and it could be either too tight or too loose and it won't compensate for it.
Cubantunr
03-12-2015, 09:22 PM
True that's why you completely take all tension out by tightening crank till chain is tight on right. Then in between cams allow 1/4in slack. Then leftover slack on left tight all the way. I still choose oem tho. Mazworx used to be great with customer service but last guy I spoke with had attitude so I bought all oem kit for all me Sr motors.