So what made you choose CA/SR/RB/LS/JZ/ETC.

[Future240]

I'm curious as to the reasons why people chose the power plants they did. Torque? Rev ability? JDM Factor?

Post the engine you have and why you chose it. Bonus points if you post why you chose it vs another engine.

[smoked240]

I started out with the stock ka24de. Was a fun engine for the time being until I wanted more power, and the ka was dumping fuel.

I looked through threads upon threads about the sr,rb and jz. I decided against the jz since at the time I didn't want a Toyota engine in my Nissan. However, when I get another chassis, a jz is probably going to be the transplant.

So sr or rb? Well I decided to go rb, rb25det to be exact. I didn't want an sr and be like everyone else( there's a back story to this I might post up in my build thread) Yes it was quite a bit more, about $5,000 for the complete swap(new radiator,intake manifold,fmic, odds n ends)

Now I stroked the rb with rb26 internals and gonna push for 500hp to the wheels :)

[NISR20MO]

I'll play. L33 + Precision 7675, I figured L33T or "leet" could be my engine code. My mildy worked engine should rev to 7k, will not be a slouch out of boost, the GTO T56 behind it isn't made of glass, and the weight penalty is negligible. Parts are easy to find and reasonable, and the motor is stupid easy to work on. Did I mention power? Win, win, win, win, more win? Most of the hardware is really tiny though haha...



I really want a bare bones SChassis with a rotary next, which is obviously not sensible by any means.

Motors I chose not to swap and basic reasons behind them :mrmeph:

1/2JZ or RB25/26: iron blocks are heavy, I DO love I6's though, swaps can get pricey if you upgrade things and some parts aren't easy to source for some engines

SR/CA: too small displacement, not enough tq, and weak trans unless you spend a bunch more money, I bailed on mine before I finished it

KA: i honestly love how KA-t cars feel, but they certainly benefit from some internal work, and still have the same glass trans behind them

[KAT-PWR]

KA-T
Because I like AC
And easily swapping a motor if it blows

EDIT: chose over sr because
More displacement
Iron block
Better head design IMO (where's my rocker?)
Availability of motors
Factory harness
Plug and play AC
More power with same set up
Faster spool
Pop a motor can swap overnight and be running the next day

Fire has been lit

[NISR20MO]

KA-T
Because I like AC
And easily swapping a motor if it blows

Good points! I will not be enjoying A/C.

[KAT-PWR]

And cheap parts from all the chumps that don't know what they're doing, Pop their KA, say the KA sucks, and sell all their stuff

[pacotaco345]

SR, because it sounds cooler than a KA, looks cooler than a KA, and fits nicer than an RB..

[EnemyS15]

Ka cause I had no idea what I was getting into originally. After a while of reading and researching, I went with the Rb25 due to the fact I fell in love with the R33/34's and this was the closest I was going to ever experience a skyline.

Since then, I have taken a huge pause on everything, due to life hitting me in the balls.

But as of 2 weeks ago, I went ahead and purchased the Tomei 2.8 stroker from Ricky @ Raw. As soon as it arrives and they have room for my rb, I will send it out to them for a complete top-to-bottom build. Ideal hp range 650-700.

[240sxfan6882]

I went KA-T in 2005. An SR20 was all the rave at the time, but I loved the feel of my KA and just wished it had more power - so I did something about it.

Initially I went with a cheap turbo kit which was never installed due to possible reliability issues, bought good stuff and then I figured the engine would need to be built for the additional power...

Eventually I ended up spending A TON more than what an SR swap would of cost me, but my engine has been reliable as hell even it's my DD.

Just for the sake if having a KA-T over an SR that everyone was going crazy for made me stay KA.

To this day I still love it, plus... I don't have an SR like "everyone else" :keke:

[Super_OK_S13]

KA24DE- When i bought the car in 2006 the bottom end was OEM rebuilt, and my great uncle (mechanic for 60 years of his life) told me if it isnt broke, dont fix it. When i noticed my coolant dissapearing i bought upgrade head parts (cams/valves/springs/head gasket/head studs/3 angle valve job/decked the head). I know it takes a little extra work to make some power (reliably) on a KA but that goes along with the (as I do 98% of the work on my car) experience of a project.

When i did the rebuild and had the engine out, I pondered a different engine but remembered what my uncle told me and just refreshed the gaskets, seals, tucked the harness, and simplified the bay a bit.. Is it ok to attach a pic or is this a discussion only thread? im sure everyone saw my build so far. i really only built the car/engine to travel around and have a nice car to call my own that I built.

[bmaddock]

+1 to KAT-PWR.


I was KA-T but now I'm in the process of 1JZ VVTI swap.
More potential
Greater support
New experience (never swapped before)
Sounds better
Fun torque curve (VVTI!)
Cool factor

KA-T did me well but I had a budget setup I didn't want to build up. I chose 1JZ over RB because of the crank collar issue and to be different from a good friend of mine who's RB25. I chose 1JZ over 2JZ/RB26 because I'm not looking for big power, just near OEM power levels (BPU as the Toyota guys call it). And I like turbo power too much for LS. Turbo V8 would be cool but I'm not looking to spend that much just yet..

[spooled240]

KA-T
Because I like AC
And easily swapping a motor if it blows

EDIT: chose over sr because
More displacement
Iron block
Better head design IMO (where's my rocker?)
Availability of motors
Factory harness
Plug and play AC
More power with same set up
Faster spool
Pop a motor can swap overnight and be running the next day

Fire has been lit

Pretty much sums up why I initially went KA-T back in 06. My A/C to this day blows cold as ice.

I was contemplating doing the s14 kouki SR swap, but back then were an upwards of 4-5k for a measly 200hp.

[EJ8 944]

I bought an RB26 before I got my car, I just thought it would be a really cool swap to have in a light RWD car. Plus, the "godzilla" Nissan motor, into the best available USDM Nissan chassis (S14), is a winning combination for me.

Shortly after acquiring the S14, the KA shit the bed, and I've been running a SR20 motor since then, I enjoy it 10 fold over my KA. I'll be on this motor till I'm ready for the RB.

RB > all, at least for me. It's such a stout motor, the sound, the look, everything, sweet engine in my opinion.

[TougeSR20Kid]

Rb20det because it...
- Revs pretty damn high
- Sounds a lot better than Ka and Sr (but really tho they sound effin legit)
- I've always wanted an Rb powered S13 / wanted to play with something new since I've always had SR and KA powered cars
- Has torque which my old Sr didn't have
- All things considered it was pretty cheap

[KAT-PWR]

Since i have a semi built motor in car, still running. And another built on a stand i'm not leaving the KA.
People ask me what i would do if i could start again, or what i would replace my motor with in the future.... the only answer is a JZ

[Zenki Kat]

KA because California sucks. lol

[LockOn!]

I've done an SRs for simplicity's sake.

Preferred swap will always be a JZ variant though. Endless power potential, excellent durability if kept within its limits, THE BEST SOUNDING ENGINE EVER PERIOD.


JZ BIATCH

[Future240]

Interesting so far. You people with KA-T's and cold a/c make me jealous lol. My a/c barlely works and it's stock.

And yes pics are fine.

KA-T
Because I like AC
And easily swapping a motor if it blows

EDIT: chose over sr because
More displacement
Iron block
Better head design IMO (where's my rocker?)
Availability of motors
Factory harness
Plug and play AC
More power with same set up
Faster spool
Pop a motor can swap overnight and be running the next day

Fire has been lit

Is your engine built or stock? Edit I saw you said semi built. Rods and Pistons?
Ga shoutout.

[KAT-PWR]

Interesting so far. You people with KA-T's and cold a/c make me jealous lol. My a/c barlely works and it's stock.

And yes pics are fine.



Is your engine built or stock? Edit I saw you said semi built. Rods and Pistons?
Ga shoutout.

Low comp forged pistons, stock rods, all arp hardware, cams

[KendallH]

F22C, cuz vtec

[spooled240]

Low comp forged pistons, stock rods, all arp hardware, cams

stock rods at 400whp?!

[Fries]

KA didnt have the power I wanted. Sr20 was fun, but I dont have access to a good tuner to tune an engine to a reliable level for the power levels I wanted.

Swapped in a 1UZ for about 3grand, which is about what it costs for a SR20 swapped in. I was able to learn a lot while doing it and at 250hp/260tq I don't have to worry about upgrading turbos and what not. Helps that if I do want to add boost, the motors have been run at mid 500hp with just headstuds and a headgasket.

[ShakotanGazelle]

Notchtop SR because I got my whole swap, fmic to vlsd for $1200 with 160psi on all 4 lol

[zeitgeist]

Sr lacked torque and i enjoyed my ka over it. Then started makin some money and decided on the ls1. Reliability, parts access, easy power. Just an overall badass engine
Only thing else i would consider at this point for a swap is a 1/2jz

[Rustys14]

I went CA18 because I'd had already gone the turbo KA and SR route in previous cars and wanted to play with something different. Its a fun little motor for what it is, feels different then the KA/SR did (in a good way) and is period correct for my two-tone. It looks the best of any motor in the 240 engine bay as well IMHO.

I'm not sure if I would do another one though, and my taste is starting to shy away from turbocharged cars. If I build another 240 it is likely going to be LS.

[iRONDONkey]

2jz cuz its arguably the GOAT 6 cylinder engine

[g_mac530]

I bought my car with an SR in it, and it hasn't given me any problems since ownership. I contemplated swapping in a JZ or and RB, but right now I don't have the budget to do that.
So i'm going to stay SR since it seems like everyone is now getting rid of them for other swaps. Its a stock SR but I'm currently trying to hunt down an old greddy mid mount manifold and turbo for it.

[jr_ss]

Started with a stock car. The KA wasn't supported as well as the SR at the time, so I purchased an S14 SR and swapped that in. BPU's, a couple of years and 20k+ plus miles the trans decided it had enough. I wanted more power, built the SR and threw top mount goodies on it. 360whp at 13psi was fun until the motor swallowed a throttle plate screw.

Time went by and I decided to part most of the SR stuff in prep for an RB. Then a not to common VET swapped popped up. After discussions with the guy selling it, I purchased it and 4yrs later I have a 2L making 485whp on 93oct.

Reasons for not going with other motors, I really like the SR. It's a stout little motor and handles lots of abuse. The VE head changes the game drastically and have always liked having a smaller motor that beats up on the larger, almost always cocky V8 owners. Besides, who doesn't like an underdog.

[KAT-PWR]

stock rods at 400whp?!

Yeah it's not uncommon 342tq 450wtq is where you should stop

[Y0SH]

I went with the 1JZ non VVTi in my cressida. I went with the 1 J because it's cheeper than a 2JZ, it's OBD1, makes decent power with a stock setup, and when the bottom end quits on me, you can find a lot of replacement parts at the parts stores if you know what your looking for, and I can find an NA 2J bottom end and do a 1.5JZ for less than 500. The only other engine I had considered for this chassis was a 1UZ VVTi because of its light weight and sound, but the aftermarket is too limited and overpriced for the power I am hoping to have.

Even if I still had a S chassis, I would still go the JZ rout. I was in the process of swapping an RB20 in my S14, but there wasn't much of an aftermarket for them at the time ('09), so I parted it out. But as far as RBs go, I think they are too over priced just to have a Skyline engine :jerkit:, (both for the engine its self and the aftermarket), especially the 26's. And to even build and RB with the same displacement equivalent to a 2J is big money. Only if I was loaded or building a "demo" vehicle for a shop would I consider an RB and it would have to be a 30. Honestly I think I would prefer an SR over an RB because of the vast cheap aftermarket for a fun little engine with lots of potential. Basically my opinion on engines for S chassis is Turbo>NA, JZ>SR>LS>RB>CA.

[O$mo]

Recently I blew my KA, Sunday to be exact being a midnight highway wangan warrior :facepalm:

My Ka was stock aside from:

OBX header
ISIS egr delete plate
Koyo Rad
ISIS E Fans and Shroud
ARP head Studs

The reason why i picked an S13 Blacktop were because:

-Im a very simple guy, and thats what SRs are simple beautiful reliable engines (plus they sound good too)
-I was strapped for cash somewhat thats why i opted for a S13 and not a S14 SR
-Nobody in my area has KAs on deck

Now currently I'm in the middle of the swap so right now the parts are coming in, so far I got:

Nismo tranny mounts (mines broke)
DIF turbo lines
HKS SSQV BOV
PBM inlet pipe
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro fuel pump
Freddy Oil pan
ISIS elbow
ebay downpipe
CX racing FMIC
SPEC stage 1 clutch kit
OEM pilot bearing
OEM oil pick up and gasket


(Please let me know if I am missing anything critical)

But yeah, Im kind of mad that I couldn't take time with this one because my s14 is my DD so I need it back asap and I wanted to do it right by getting top shelf shit but hey, shit happens, I plan to replace the knock offs soon, and the replace the oil pump for peace of mind.


But overall I picked an SR because of overall reliability, simplicity of the swap, and the sounds they can make...sex.

Lets see how this SR lifestyle is.
:drama:

[shawn1331]

I basically went the sr route because I paid nothing for it. I bought it with a power FC d Jetro with commander for $90" and 2 trannys. Sold the power FC for $850 and here I am. Motor supposedly has forged internals and had a stage 3 clutch with 550cc inj and a full race manifold. I think I did pretty good :p

I really wanted to do an rb and wen my sr decides to die or next winter comes I may go rb25. But I have so many sr parts I'm not really sure which route. It'd be easy to just pick up another sr so I don't know...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[slider2828]

SR cause i wanted it to be closer to JDM version of the car.

[JZ78]

I went the SR route back in 2011 because of the simple nature of the swap. It was a super fun motor with a punchy torque curve. Sold the car that same year because life hit me with a couple kids. Well I'm back in the game and I just may do another one... Man I miss that motor.....

sent from my mind

[O$mo]

If I can ask this question:

What are your experiences with the reliablity of the SR for DDin, midnight highway runs, and possible light track duty (with proper prep of course)?

Basic stock SR w/normal bolt-ons.

[Nissansota240]

If I can ask this question:

What are your experiences with the reliablity of the SR for DDin, midnight highway runs, and possible light track duty (with proper prep of course)?

Basic stock SR w/normal bolt-ons.

Put somewhere around 30,000 plus miles on mine daily driving it for two years, multiple track days, and multiple 4+ hour drives every now and then. Just did the usual basic maintenance. That same motor now has a gt2860rs, 550 injectors, power fc and makes 280 and gets the shit beat out of it even more. Still willing to drive it 4+ hours to a drift event, drift all day, then drive back.

I very much enjoy my s13 sr.

[LockOn!]

I went with the 1JZ non VVTi in my cressida.

Start looking for a new turbo set up. If they haven't already the twins will eventually start shitting oil for you. Mine lasted about a year. If I could do it again I would have done the next model up VVTI 2j and driven that shit for daaayz.

[dluevanos01]

Better head design IMO (where's my rocker?)
:keke::keke: lol #dead :faint:

But yeah, That's a bug drawback to an sr

When I bought my car it had an sr, and I enjoyed the engine. Coming from a family where no one was into cars, I had to teach my self everything, so when my first sr blew ( afte 3 years of no problems) I decided to stick with the sr.

SR, because it sounds cooler than a KA, looks cooler than a KA, and fits nicer than an RB..
^^that, and because when I removed the blow engine, I completely took it apart and taught myself as much as I could with the engine, and I felt comfortable with it.

If I could go back maybe, just maybe I'd do a 1J swap for the sound but I'm extremely happy with the sr. Power is good, parts are easy to find now-a-days, there's like infinite threads about it, so troubleshooting is not so difficult.

[bmaddock]

My KA-T sounded so sick from inside the car but the first time I heard it from outside I was pretty disappointed. KA's just always sound like they're on their last leg haha.

[Imarvin240]

I have had a number of SR/RB/VQ powered vehicles, but I went the ~750hp stroked/sleeved SR with a VE head direction for a few reasons. I had already bought it before I switched chassis and it's easier to work on with the engine in the car vs. a V style engine. V style engines just take up so much room and make it tough to deal with certain repairs/maintenance work at the track. Don't get me wrong, I love almost every engine, but that's my opinion. I didn't go rb because it's an incredibly heavy engine and I'm building a time attack car. I sometimes do wish I went 2j, but that's always an option for the future. The VE head really does solve one of the biggest issues with the SR engine (rockers) and makes it an insanely potent engine. The last reason I went SR with VE head, is because two of the three podium cars at World Time Attack were running SR20VE engines. Eventually I would like to try out the other engine platforms that I haven't had the opportunity to try yet.

[Future240]

S15 SR20DET
GM Coil Packs
gt2560rs @ 14lbs

Picked for more out of the box power, and I wanted to stay 4 cyl turbo. Can't justify going Ka-t because if done properly, it costs way too much than I'd care to spend on any 4cyl turbo. VTC changed my life, never going back to s13 sr.

If I did decide to get rid of the s15 SR, I would be going LS.

What's the difference between SR with VTC vs without? I mean feel wise.

[BossHogg]

first path was ka-t. Why swap a 4 banger for another 4 banger? Also, in order to make a sr20 worth a damn, you have to buy all the same shit that you would need to make a ka-t anyways. The ka-t would yield more power. KA is just a for sure win in that case if you ask me. Then when I actually got a career, I decided to go rb25. Inline 6, whats not to love. Then the GTR speaks for itself. I just like to look at it now as the 240 is the single turbo inline 6 and the GTR will be the twin turbo inline 6. Although I do plan on importing a kouki 180sx, so I guess i'll see what the sr20 thing is all about then

[O$mo]

Put somewhere around 30,000 plus miles on mine daily driving it for two years, multiple track days, and multiple 4+ hour drives every now and then. Just did the usual basic maintenance. That same motor now has a gt2860rs, 550 injectors, power fc and makes 280 and gets the shit beat out of it even more. Still willing to drive it 4+ hours to a drift event, drift all day, then drive back.

I very much enjoy my s13 sr.

That puts me at ease now, had to postpone the suspension overhaul gotta get my baby back lol

[s13 drifta]

I went sr for a few reasons. They are easy and cheaper to work on, make good power, reliable if done right, and they are lighter than all other options, so the car has better weight distribution. I daily drive my car, go to drift and drag events, beat her up, then drive back home. No reason to run anything else.

[blksylv]

Went sr because I always wanted to lol. Almost went ka-t but ended up getting my sr with trans for about what I paid for my low mileage spare ka that I had bought.



If I can ask this question:

What are your experiences with the reliablity of the SR for DDin, midnight highway runs, and possible light track duty (with proper prep of course)?

Basic stock SR w/normal bolt-ons.



Its been running strong for 6 yrs and 55k miles later (knock on wood). It was my DD for a while. I have basic bolt-ons and a t28 on mines. Gonna do cams and a hg in a few weeks with a few supporting mods and hope for the best and a bit more power lol.

[Y0SH]

Start looking for a new turbo set up. If they haven't already the twins will eventually start shitting oil for you. Mine lasted about a year. If I could do it again I would have done the next model up VVTI 2j and driven that shit for daaayz.

Im going to be doing a single after i get suspension and wheels sorted out.

[SilviaSR20DET]

I came from a stock KA to a KA-T and was a firm believer but kept having problems blowing turbos for some reason so after college I swapped in an S14 SR20. It's the best thing i've done to my s14 so far, race proven engine, sounds nice, rev's quicker and higher, looks better, and just plain badass. Love driving my car 10x more with the SR period. I also might say that its ironic i ended up with the SR, my screenname is now legit 13 years later.... haha

[Baggy]

I went sr for a few reasons. They are easy and cheaper to work on, make good power, reliable if done right, and they are lighter than all other options, so the car has better weight distribution. I daily drive my car, go to drift and drag events, beat her up, then drive back home. No reason to run anything else.

For the past 8 years driving only S-chassis cars, to me its SR20det all the way, Love LS, RB, JZ motors too but honestly, depends on what you want to do and your budget. For me Its all about feel, drivability, fun, and reliability.
You can get A/C in your SR20, I've done it three times with three of my S14s.

Key point is having access to a good tuner to tune the motor right. A bad tuner will definitely cause you headache... SR20 are just as reliable as any motor and easy to work on. They fit right, and look right in the car, probably because its meant to be there.

Plus if you watch all the Drift muscle or Japan drifters like Nakamura or Yokoi, they drive with SR20 and just tune it, upgrade the turbo, and modify accordingly, which honestly isn't too expensive compared to other motors. I went with the Tomei ARMS 8270 + bolt ons and etc.. all on stock bottom end and its super fun to drive. Im no pro level drifter or racer, but I think the SR20 itself is a great motor to play for a daily, weekend warrior/track car.

never had any serious issues with any of my Sr20s, I did my best to keep the motors in good shape by doing regular maintenance and getting it properly tuned for reliability, to this day I still keep in contact with my local tuner and bring the car in for a retune if any serious modifying is done. Do your homework as well!

[spooled240]

I came from a stock KA to a KA-T and was a firm believer but kept having problems blowing turbos for some reason so after college I swapped in an S14 SR20. It's the best thing i've done to my s14 so far, race proven engine, sounds nice, rev's quicker and higher, looks better, and just plain badass. Love driving my car 10x more with the SR period. I also might say that its ironic i ended up with the SR, my screenname is now legit 13 years later.... haha

Did you feel a difference in the car's handling with the front end being lighter? I've heard the SR is a good 50lbs lighter than the KA.

[I<3BEWBZ]

SR. The sound man the sounds.

[bataangpinoy]

S15 SR20DET
QT ECU (spec -r)
Corresponding MAF
New GT2560rs @12lbs
Exedy 3 puck clutch (stg 2, thick disk)
ISIS Performance V2 Oil pan
Function Motorsports GM Coil Pack conversion
Function Motorsports HMIC
5-spd trans

TONS of maintenance while I had it out.

Hated my first ka-de car, went s13 sr at first.


Blew up my s13 SR at lime rock (I put 2 bad ones together to make a running one) but it had a brand new s15 turbo on it, a good clutch, etc etc.
I had a hell of a time finding a reliable s13 sr long block, so I called around and asked a few importers what they had. One of them had an s15 sr without a trans or turbo, so I jumped on it. I will never go back to s13 sr or ka.

I would not consider going ka-t, because I can get s14/s15 sr20's for far cheaper, install/run one with far less hassle, far less money and headache. I can also hit a reliable 300 whp with very little effort.

If I were to replace my s15 sr, I would put in another s14/15 sr. I use it to go to work, get groceries, bring the dog to the park, road racing, drifting, apartment hunting etc. I want to try my hand at a hill climb this season (street prepared class with hill-climb.org). This is my personal street car, I don't feel the need to go nuts building it. Just reliability/drivability upgrades and lots of preventative maintenance. The VTC allows for very good street manners. I don't have to rev the piss out of it to get around town, has excellent throttle response and a fat, useable power band.




If I decided to try and compete again, would look at a more modern chassis (i.e. z33, maybe an e46) to build into my LS powered competition car.

[SilviaSR20DET]

Did you feel a difference in the car's handling with the front end being lighter? I've heard the SR is a good 50lbs lighter than the KA.

Honestly, I do feel a difference in maneuverability with the sr20det coupled with a lighter battery as well. If anything it made my car more neutral which is exactly what i wanted. I can't even imagine sticking an rb into my s14 that shit would throw off the balance a lot i bet. Hence why not a lot of time attack silvia's use rb/jz series motors it takes it toll on weight after while i'm sure. But I guess everyone has their own driving style and preferences.

[unwtdhero]

I went VQ cause......
It weighs less than a ka....
Such power
Much tones
And I can say it's a skyline swap lol

[Skilz10179]

I went LS1, it was the only way to obtain infinite love from the local mullets...

No weak spots over the entire power band, no comparison to the other options. Drive a 240 with a 450whp SR and then drive a 240 with a 450whp LSX and you'll be hooked...

[Future240]

I went VQ cause......
It weighs less than a ka....
Such power
Much tones
And I can say it's a skyline swap lol

First VQ in this thread. How much power does it put down?

[l adam l]

I've had s14 sr20det powered s14...s13 sr20 and RB20 powered s13s. Debated for a long time for my current car. I started leaning towards ls2 with t56...ended up going with r33 rb26dett...because sound, no crank collar issue, stock bottom end will easily and reliably handle 550+ hp, minimal upgrades needed to reach 500hp, r154 is shit trans (debated on 2j for a while), and because... godzilla. Going to keep this car forever and I've always wanted a rb26.

[Kingtal0n]

My budget is 5k or less, so the only reliable 2-day drop-in option is sr20

If I had 15k-20k choose 2jz/lsx turbo automatic with emphasis on the lsx turbo auto for a daily 11 second street car with A/C and 26mpg~ without having to manually shift (there is alot of traffic in miami, almost every day I am sitting still on a highway somewhere).

Its not about what we "want" everybody "wants" a V12 quad turbo under their hood and a huge diesel powered truck to tow it with.

I went sr for a few reasons. They are easy and cheaper to work on, make good power, reliable if done right, and they are lighter than all other options, so the car has better weight distribution. I daily drive my car, go to drift and drag events, beat her up, then drive back home. No reason to run anything else.

exactly :D I can fling the car around every corner easily, it looks really dangerous if you are watching but from inside the car its like the opera is going and you just feel like you are floating, people will ask you if you drift, I usually say "I dont really try to but she does anyways" :stars:

[Hashiriya415]

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-keua0GfanUg/VPuwAnucs0I/AAAAAAAAEh8/X7LQOIc1Yig/w281-h500-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb%2B2 .JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xrsAH_tmexA/VPuwAp-sUDI/AAAAAAAAEiA/Mbsr0fnKvBc/w500-h475-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb.JPG

[ShakotanGazelle]

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-keua0GfanUg/VPuwAnucs0I/AAAAAAAAEh8/X7LQOIc1Yig/w281-h500-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb%2B2 .JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xrsAH_tmexA/VPuwAp-sUDI/AAAAAAAAEiA/Mbsr0fnKvBc/w500-h475-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb.JPG

pls put a vroombox in this car

[jr_ss]

If I had 15k-20k choose 2jz/lsx turbo automatic with emphasis on the lsx turbo auto for a daily 11 second street car with A/C and 26mpg~ without having to manually shift (there is alot of traffic in miami, almost every day I am sitting still on a highway somewhere).

A turbo LSX and only 11's? Why waste the money and go through the trouble? I/C/E and a tune would net 11's in an S-chassis.

[Hashiriya415]

pls put a vroombox in this car

Rather hear something new. Same old internal combustion engine have been around too long. It's getting soooooo boring.

@7:19
mWdatUMNmTI?t=7m19s

[Y0SH]

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-keua0GfanUg/VPuwAnucs0I/AAAAAAAAEh8/X7LQOIc1Yig/w281-h500-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb%2B2 .JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xrsAH_tmexA/VPuwAp-sUDI/AAAAAAAAEiA/Mbsr0fnKvBc/w500-h475-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb.JPG

Im very interested in this set up!!! Any more info, or build thread?

[Hashiriya415]

http://www.evsource.com/tls_warp9.php

[az_240]

^Soo sicc!... You have to make a build thread on it.

[Chernobyl]

Rb20det here. The decision was purely economic at the time. I got a great deal on everything needed for the swap. I would never do an rb again.

[Kingtal0n]

A turbo LSX and only 11's? Why waste the money and go through the trouble? I/C/E and a tune would net 11's in an S-chassis.

longevity reasons. We are talking 5psi of boost on a stock lsx with stock SE wheels to go deep 11's with a shitty walbro.

Once you start thinking real fuel system, real boost, real car, parts and prices add up fast, and reliability goes down.

A stock sr20 at 380rwhp would be at wit's end, where an lsx at 440rwhp would be barely working, I could shift at 6200rpm on the peanut cam and still go mid 11's spinning through second with my 2.3 60' time.
Its like an easy button for cars at 2800lbs.

[jr_ss]

I suppose my SR is beyond wits end then making 100whp more than your 380whp claim. :rolleyes:

So you want to throw the heavy iron block into your S-chassis? Those are the only ones that hold up reliably speaking to boost.

[simmode1]

All electric.
400hp & 600ft lbs.
LS tranny.

Can't take any more of the poison from gasoline. And can't afford the cost of gas when getting 5mpg

And I have no interested in knowing what a smog station is anymore.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-keua0GfanUg/VPuwAnucs0I/AAAAAAAAEh8/X7LQOIc1Yig/w281-h500-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb%2B2 .JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xrsAH_tmexA/VPuwAp-sUDI/AAAAAAAAEiA/Mbsr0fnKvBc/w500-h475-no/Netgain%2B9%2BEV%2B400hp%2B%26%2B600%2Bft%2Blb.JPG
Interesting. You just gave me an idea. And it looks someone's already done it - Electric RX8.
ZptiL0ji5qo
Much better than our old junk chassis. Time to do some heavy reading...

[Matej]

Go Superturbodiesel.

http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae153/Fjoddeno1/Mercedes%20w123/DSC08650.jpg
Uk64Hh1jFbs

[racepar1]

I have to admit, I get whatever I get the best deal on. Right now I've got a CA18 that I'm rebuilding, came with most of the parts for the re-build. I've always liked the CA's though. They're TINY little motors and the design is basically a mini RB. If you drive a bone stock, nice running CA you really can't tell much of a difference between a comparable SR. They've got more potential than people give them credit for.

Before I get the CA going though I'm swapping in a KADE that I got for STUPID cheap. It came with some nice aftermarket parts and the COMPLETE, WORKING A/C system. My KAE runs well, but it's got almost 300k on it and it's burning oil. Also, no A/C. I don't want to be in ANY rush on the CA, I want it done RIGHT.

Never been a big SR fan primarily because of the idiotic valvetrain design.

I truly CANNOT STAND almost any cross-manufacturer engine swap. The ONLY one that I actually like is the GM LS series swap. That's the only engine that you can't find a Nissan equivalent for. 1UZ = VH45, 1/2JZ = RB25/26, other American V8's = cheap/broke...

[mad-ass]

I am going LS, because I want V8.

Did most of you guys not know that you can have AC with SR swap? I had AC in my S14 with S13 SR, using the factory working KA AC compressor and Cody Ace AC brackets.

Windows up AC cranked on while waiting in line for next lap in hot summer day drift events is where it's at.

[jr_ss]

I am going LS, because I want V8.

Did most of you guys not know that you can have AC with SR swap? I had AC in my S14 with S13 SR, using the factory working KA AC compressor and Cody Ace AC brackets.

Windows up AC cranked on while waiting in line for next lap in hot summer day drift events is where it's at.

I had functioning air on my SR swap back in 06' prior to Cody offering brackets. It was nice, that's for sure.

[Kingtal0n]

I suppose my SR is beyond wits end then making 100whp more than your 380whp claim. :rolleyes:

So you want to throw the heavy iron block into your S-chassis? Those are the only ones that hold up reliably speaking to boost.

you have a stock piston, stock gasket sr20 producing 480rwhp?

It will not last 200,000 miles like that. You'd be lucky to get 15,000 miles out of a stock engine at 480rwhp.
Thats over 500bhp, the rods and pistons are in jeopardy, yeah. Beyond wit's end for sure.

[Matej]

No modded engine lasts 200K miles, and I doubt the owner expects it to.
Even most stock motors will have trouble reaching such mileage.

[O$mo]

I truly CANNOT STAND almost any cross-manufacturer engine swap. The ONLY one that I actually like is the GM LS series swap. That's the only engine that you can't find a Nissan equivalent for. 1UZ = VH45, 1/2JZ = RB25/26, other American V8's = cheap/broke...


Amen on that cross-manufacturer swaps point :bow:

[jr_ss]

you have a stock piston, stock gasket sr20 producing 480rwhp?

It will not last 200,000 miles like that. You'd be lucky to get 15,000 miles out of a stock engine at 480rwhp.
Thats over 500bhp, the rods and pistons are in jeopardy, yeah. Beyond wit's end for sure.

I missed the stock part. However, if you think a boosted LSX is going to last 200k, your beyond wits end. As stated, no modified engine is going to last anywhere near OEM life spans under much more stress, be it a V8 with 5psi or a 4cyl at 20psi.

[Silverbullet]

SR20, simply because I got a good deal on it. I bought it already built SR20 with no miles for stupid cheap. Other wise I would have went KA-T to be honest.

[simmode1]

Sooo... did some research on the high powered electric vehicle conversion...LOL if you think LSx is expensive. Better off buying a Tesla Roadster probably.

[ryan15]

My most recent achievement is a VH45. I've had two SR's, which one I fully built, a few KA's and an RB20. I just wanted a really solid and reliable/different swap. Also, it gets a lot attention and confuses people too which is kind of cool.

[ixfxi]

SR20DET

1) Because its efficient.
2) Because its powerful.
3) Because less is more.
4) Because its period correct.
5) Because its factory original.
6) Because its designed to fit & work.
7) Because making power is inexpensive.
8) Because the next person who owns/inherits my car will appreciate that its not a hack job and that the end product looks like what you see in the 180SX brochure.

[greddy2die]

I went LS for a few reasons

1: When i initially bought the motor 6 years ago, LS S-Chassis' weren't as common, i didn't want the normal SR, RB, JZ swap
2: i got tired of turbo b/s
3: torque...instantly
4: parts & maintenance cost.
5: because i could afford to...lol

[smoked240]

A built RD28T would be worth trying. It's only sohc. Would be killer with a rb26 head. Diesel torque is wild.

[ATLspeed]

I choose the 2jz because, after becoming "automotive culture" literate, it was the motor that was in the supra. Before I was into cars I seen a supra at car dealership (I was about 16/17) and wanted it. Found out the price tags for supra's and it was out of my league.

Years later I became familiar with cars and bought a 240sx. Wanted to do a rb25 swap but I kept buying parts for my built KA-T and just ran with that for years (I loved it). Ended up parting out my setup for a 2jz and I'm happy with it....minus not having AC yet lol

Le Ole KA-T (Holset he341 @ 20psi)
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/IMG_20120203_134501.jpg (http://s673.photobucket.com/user/Kidd_Nickles/media/IMG_20120203_134501.jpg.html)

Sound clip of the 2jz (Don't have any recent pics lol)
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/th_10990523_653352518127271_1106339366_n_zpswbfndt bb.mp4 (http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/10990523_653352518127271_1106339366_n_zpswbfndtbb. mp4)

[Kingtal0n]

I missed the stock part. However, if you think a boosted LSX is going to last 200k, your beyond wits end. As stated, no modified engine is going to last anywhere near OEM life spans under much more stress, be it a V8 with 5psi or a 4cyl at 20psi.

Well now wait a minute. I said 5psi. Imagine you drive up north where the elevation is +5000 feet or so, that is similar to removing 3~ psi (I am not doing the math here, but its close).

Same with driving below sea level, if we could do it, it would add ~3+ psi to the atmospheric pressure. Which after adiabatic efficiency factors in, is about 5psi from a turbocharger.

So are you saying a stock LSx engine wouldn't last as long, if I could drive it a couple thousand feet below sea level? Of course not.
By the same reasoning it would last longer at higher altitudes (nonsense)
Furthermore, if the temperature drops from 80*F to -5*F (30*F at the inlet) you are also gaining 3~psi ( again, not doing the math, but the idea is the same: more molecules/area = more power) which by your reasoning would also increase wear and tear substantially.

5psi is nothing. The engine wont even know it's turbocharged. If you didn't want to spend on injectors of course you wouldn't even need to upgrade the injectors, not because 5psi is within the limits but because we have the ability to dial adjust the boost pressure and regulate the proper number to be safe(how about 4psi at 7000rpm due to headroom, 6psi at 6000 for VE, 3psi at 3000-4000 for safety around peak best torque on pump gas), and especially if you play with the fuel pressure for headroom when you want it (just for one dyno run to show X00 then I set the fuel pressure back down and drive it at 440bhp). The idea is to overcome the engine's VE shortcoming on the stock cam. You say 100% VE at 4000rpm? Okay, but not at 6000rpm. The 5psi comes in to fill the gap, giving you a full cylinder (about as full as it was without the turbo at 4000rpm). I see no additional significant "stress" that the engine is otherwise unprepared for.
And finally, look at all the 7psi supercharger kits available for practically every car in the world, from miatas and corvettes and 350z's and more. All those kits work with stock engines and do not have any substantial impact on the service life of the engines, when they are well maintained. Again I will point out how depending on your altitude, and temperature, all engines are +/- 5~psi of "boost" in the USA regardless. If I live in Colorado, and I wish to simulate Florida's atmospheric pressure, I need that 5psi just to get back to "normal".

[NISSeAN]

KA24DE. Because I'd rather turn than go-fast and KA-T because I own a 240 and not a 180.

[BoostinIX]

KA got all leaky

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/207472_10150552201180103_4402237_n.jpg?oh=bb5f339e e43f0cc5b81fc360f3e87094&oe=55A33E5E

Went SR

https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/295291_10152108958135103_724164089_n.jpg?oh=fffb21 c0e3eb0e59ce538a8fefeedb8d&oe=55AA9CC9

Got bored. Got involved a lot more with guys at Sikky. So...only natural.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11070166_10155355952425103_4201920702256145131_n.j pg?oh=c07fa2c8ad788a74d5cc2ec90819003a&oe=55721088&__gda__=1437278797_1d2668e78ea25c701c6c003d8ca3bc2 1

[JZ78]

There you go, nice!

sent from my mind

[rawgarage]

2JZ because JZ sounds cool and 1J is a lil old.:::
LS because I wanted to build a 5.3 budget build

And RB26 because it came in my GTR

[Croustibat]

CA18DET ... because that is what we get in a bone stock S13 here :D