mgps13 build thread

[mgps13]

Aristo JDM engine, R154 out of an MKIII, 1jz bellhousing , Z32 na vlsd differential, r32 skyline CV axles, r32 skyline seats,
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZcTduQ1RnbFU4R2s

New home
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUDFmQ2Nwanc0Qk0

Chassis: 91 240 that was picked up for $150 with a blown KA
Sprayed single stage black for the exterior, and bed liner for the interior floor pan
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZNWlzek1DdmlWS3M
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRlRQbFhiNTdYR2s
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUDVrS1RLajlvc2c
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWlNWM01sWW1JV2M
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ3dmUVRJdDJ1SVU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZHMzdUYyODJCODg
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZVFVTGl6ek51Zzg
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdHViQURyVXR6eFk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUTFXS2c5a1E5alE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZNThuTFh5MWdHblE

Weight reduction:
Some of the things to get down pretty low are not very safe for a street car. Off the top of my head this one has:
* Unneeded bracket removal throughout, even the tack welded ones
* Gutted dash, AC delete
* No insulation / sound dampening (added bed liner to the floor pan once it was stripped)
* No audio
* No front bumper support
* Custom fabricated rear bumper support, more like a bar (this is probably not safe with the stock gas tank)
* Custom front chassis harness (literally lighting and headlight motors only)
* Custom minimal rear harness
* Custom power supply routing / fuse box
* Antenna delete
* Manual seat belts from a 180sx (deleted all of the auto seat belt stuff)
* Custom ECU harness
* Carbon hood
* Smaller battery mounted on the rear passenger corner
* No interior panels except the dash, none (sprayed it all black so it doesn’t look like shit)
* No 2jz AC compressor / bracket, (shorter belt)

[TurboTiger]

Looks like it will be a solid build. Should be drive able soon?

[DILLONDILLONDILLON!]

THAT ESCALATED QUICKLY!! lol great job dude keep it up
whats next ??

[mgps13]

Actually I am cheating, this is from back in the day. I was waiting for the thread to open up so I can catch up to current. There is a duplicate thread on supra forums because of the JZ, but i figured since I am starting to focus more on the chassis that I should be over here as well.

Ok so here it goes:

[mgps13]

Valve seals, Titan 264 cams, knock off Greddy plenum (get to that again later), treadstone t4 manifold, T04S (because i had one ), Billet Tbelt tensioner bracket
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWkJHY1dLMFVzRmM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZa2Z6QU1QR3VkOTA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZalJrYUI4Nk1oUmc

powder coated crossmembers and control arms. fabricated a "Power Brace", Energy Suspension full kit, TEIN Springs, 8AN fuel lines, custom fuel pump hanger (running 1 aeromotive stealth for now, but I should be able to fit 3 on the hanger if needed)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWktuZXJSYVBQWW8

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZa0VyV0VPMFlfSGM

Ran the setup for 10K or so, first with a Spec clutch and then with an ACT setup. Then one day on a high rpm shift into 3rd:
THRUST WASHER FAILURE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWFNwNTRTWWhjZ0k
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaDlacnJuWUdyTkE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZa2JHSlVJQ1B3dkU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbjZ3NDJwZGZuZXc

[mgps13]

After the thrust bearing failure on the aristo bottom end I stole the heart of a lexus for a block and crank. The last setup didnt look too bad, but I did not want to risk it. At a minimum it would have required adding material to the crankshaft thrust surface. I will use the NA block and crank for the base of my build up.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbWZkMWVIVnp0MXc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZcXpGQVFmcnIwdU0
Check out that Tbelt^, this dude was running on faith for sure
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaU45OEpxMWxqa1k

So the lower end will go as follows:
* Complete proper cleaning (all oil gallery balls removed)
* ARP main stud kit
* Line hone
* Bored (20 over/86.5mm)
* Manley I beams
* CP pistons (9:1 compression, upgraded wristpins)
* Modified oem oil pump
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZYWNZM19rbm13ekk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZazRqYWRUajdPRms
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdTlvRTh4YjhhaGc

[mgps13]

After the thrust washer failure I decided to go for less clamping force which meant a multi-disk clutch. Ended up going with an exedy twin disk intended for the 1jz.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZcnhPTklReDRPMFE

Tore down the stock valve train.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZU0xmdGRSM0QzZU0

Soda blasted the head to get it ready for the build up:

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUndYeWcwQXo1RU0
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ1FkZHZwWFBkWHM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZnJJb2FUczZhYzg
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbDBEb2JKUXRjaW8

My kid is going to handle the valve lashing for me:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUGJCNEZPc3NlUHM

The head build up will include:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

[mgps13]

Full gasket kit, modified oil pump, ARP head studs
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZQjhMcG4xcXl2RTg

Sport 2000: The custom ecu harness I fabbed has a breakout near the ecu so I can switch between different units with just 6 Deutsch connectors. ( I will show all that when I get around to installing everything again)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdlp3NXR6RWo2UHM

(MR2 shimless bucket conversion, machined billet locks) vs (stock lifter, shim / stock locks)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZY3FOWUt3ZEc5WDA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZYS0yd0JDR2VOeGs

Pulley:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbE5mT2EyTmh5S1U

[mgps13]

Ok so this is a little vague, but it might help others who are considering fabricating an ECU harness. I will elaborate on this more once I get everything back together.

Essentially I created a new harness from scratch using new Toyota and Deutsch connectors wrapped in Techflex braided wire cover. I also used MIL spec shielded wire for the crank, cam, and knock sensors. The harness has a breakout near the ECU that allows you to switch between ecus without unplugging anything else. I also added breakouts for an Apexi AVCr and a Zeitronix wideband controller.

The pics below are from the planning of the harness, I will post some pictures of the actual harness when I pull it out of the car again. I ran the harness for about 1500 miles with good results so far.

Some notes:
Toyota Color: Wire color/pin from stock Aristo Ecu harness
Engine Color: Wire color in my fabricated harness
Haltech Color: Sport 2000 flying lead harness wire color

NOTE: Ignore the pin numbers in the second picture. The tables shown in the bottom image is how I actually laid the harness out.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZclhEa005dkFvQ28
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdkVQV20xVTNUQnM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUkdsaGd1MGhQTkE

[mgps13]

(OEM) vs (Ferrea stock sized comp plus, behives, titanium retainers)

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZVGEtY1pibXNVX28
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZYWF1M25Ld3h2M28
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZktySjJPdzZsZlE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbGFPb2plc05ncEU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZczFQZjM0OFozUnc

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZakxlRnFFd0M0TVU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZV2FhYnlnOHRpQTQ
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZSEZvMDRxb3h1UjA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZMXJKVXBsNUZoYzg
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZTmdrZEJsZkJTSms

[mgps13]

Finally got some time to get a few things done:

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbkJGY2ktRlN3bEk

Went with a modified GTE oil pump from Powerhouse:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ2owenRCQThuamM

#1 oil pan prepped as follows: (soap/water, aluminum acid wash, soda blast, wash well again, WD40 on bare alumium surfaces to prevent oxidation, 500deg cermic paint for external surfaces only):
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbkN4elNRdFVzQzA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZcmdIUHZrd0E1S1E
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRTU1MXlUOGk4TFk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUUxxZ0hFTTdqcXc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZYU1qQjZiem1yU00

[mgps13]

The head was setup as follows:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRkUxMllPTlJXNG8
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRnJDQUlpY29EWlk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ25mRV8zeE9TWmc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZSXZVZU4yXzQwR2M
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdUxxTEdSc1RuUXM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeXBwRURieTQ2OTg

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZM2tVTjg3UUhDeXc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZa3hPek1rdF9vZjQ
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZVXJEMUc1TUJONWc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZV3BVTVNtOU1vUU0
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZQVNkZFBsbjdWRnM

[mgps13]

Starting to get excited...

From my last setup:
Titan 264 cams (9.35mm lift)
Titan cam gears
Billet t-belt tensioner bracket
New Gates racing t belt
I also tack welded the CPS trigger wheel onto the crank timing gear

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZDZpRHBPWEp2VlE

[mgps13]

Terrible photos, but you get the idea.

Finished up the monstrosity of an intake that I linked to earlier in the thread:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ3p3eEptdlJHZjA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZV1FrRWppV21vaW8

Ended up just cleaning the intake up and grinding off the spot for the greddy name plate. I also removed a few unneeded tabs from the lower runners. Got lazy and sprayed it with high temp black paint:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZd0NuR1FDM3M2YUE

I'm not going to run a filter bracket, so I just used a T fitting off the pressure sensor port for the turbo oil feed. Hard to see in this pic...
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUW1SZXdMaW9KX28

[mgps13]

ARP 1jz flywheel bolts
Exedy Twin Disk Hyper (1JZ/r154)

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZEVxOXN1YWIydTQ
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaXRuQ2RJU1hvdUE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZQWEtTTJHYlFSc00
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeEV2VWdaZUZLbHM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZk5YVmJERE5rVFU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZMUF4X0RXVnZITDQ

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZamE5SGdoTTJuYkU

I still have not finished working the OBX manifold, but I wanted to see it on the motor. The turbo will need to be reclocked from my last setup and I will be fabricating a new DP and some minor intercooler piping. I am planing to break in the motor with the cast manifold for simplicity's sake.
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZREJrcnBoY2pwbG8
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZNHk4WkRncldoOU0

[mgps13]

3am... 30 min tasks always turn into an 1.5 hrs. My transmission cross-member makes it a pain to align the drive train, but not enough to make me feel like re-fabricating it. I also noticed that the drift motion poly mount I bought for the r154 has started to wear a bit. Its not separating, but it is looser than it should be. My solid engine mounts might be putting a lot of stress on it, but I am not sure.

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbVd5RlE5UDlVQ2c
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRVdtZV9aa0k3Z1U
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZb1JBSlN6Y0h6SDg

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaE5LMF9DWVVncFk

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWXB4cC1rT0xabWs


A9PSglLqedI

[mgps13]

*Fabricated a breakout harness for the Haltech. (my harness is modular, see post #19)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZThUWG1taUdnSlU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZazJKU2ViVFZBcjA

* Flashed a firmware update to the ECU
* Created a custom calibration map for my Zeitronix wideband (my model does not have a linear output)
* Loaded a base map from Haltech

Started first try and idled prefect. Most of the A/F ratios were pretty spot on under light load and cruising, but I did have some lean spots getting into boost. Probably because of the head work and cams I assume. Tuning the map was easy even by myself as I could just review a data log after a quick run.

The Haltech S2000 has to be the smoothest experience I have had with any stand alone or piggy back to date.

Next will be injectors, then a larger turbo (s366 is looking quite tempting @ $600)

[mgps13]

Went back and forth on deciding whether to pay a lot more for the 1300s, but in the end I decided to remain realistic about my power goals. FIC 1100s were also considered, but I got a really good deal on the ID's so...

Still need to fabricate the lines once a few additional fittings come in, but it should not be too bad.

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWlNFd3ZsSk9hVlE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUEdrUW9DWHNLazA

[mgps13]

sorry for the terrible cell phone pics:

OBX divded header cleaned up and braced, Precision 46mm wg flange welded on
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaUxEdkFpbTN5UHc

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZOGNNeXpJVEJqUWM

S366
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZ0ZzR0c3RElid00

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZN05mSWI1ZHAyRXM

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZX2tqWGNKajl0dzQ

3.5" exhaust
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbFFCUlRoVVhzU1E

ID1000s, GM 3 bar map sensor
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZd3hNRTlleU9RS3M

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZX20tQVlWRnA1QWc

Getting closer to somewhere...

[mgps13]

16psi, 93pump, timing is still moderately conservative...

Cant get the smile off my face, I know its not much for a 2j, but it just feels nice to see it all come together.

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZWkhZQ2JSSUthSnM

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdjdxejMwaGVXaE0

U0z2bwfMLIQ

F4LWwudUsCE

[mgps13]

I need to change a few things in the rear of the car to get it to launch, but it was fun either way. Running out of 4th gear around 130mph, but I shifted too early on this run anyways.

rZLjnXS5Mz4

lqAVtTQbt0Y

[mgps13]

OK, so the thread is current now. My next project is going to be a complete redo of the rear sub-frame. I am still trying to piece everything together right now, as I don't want to be down while things are being powder coated etc.

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZUElybWVfMVRVcFk

(tire diameter 25in, 5th gear ratio .753, final ratio 4.08, rpm 6750)=~163 mph

^ I do not condone this type of thing without proper chassis preparations, but this was done safely without endangering the public. The car pulled hard all the way, outside of melting 4th @ 80mph.

Time to invest $$ for rear traction. Next will be sub-frame bushings, camber arms, wider rubber, etc.

[ayrtonlucyk]

incredible.

[Hoonigan19]

sick build man

[mgps13]

Got invited to a local (unsanctioned) runway event that was a lot of fun. I left the car on 10psi, so I guess it was making somewhere in the 400s. The cops ended up coming later since someone probably called like a little b*&%$.

qKCwjE1kiXI

[Hoonigan19]

man, that block looks so clean, your a ballar eh

[mgps13]

man, that block looks so clean, your a ballar eh

nah man, its hard work getting my builds going:
How to get $$ for your build (http://www.wikihow.com/Panhandle)

[mgps13]

both cars were on ~14psi

from RB car:
F4z7_W7pn04

from JZ car:
zFGlUH5rAXE

[mgps13]

Next rear end setup:
(GKTech RUCAs, solid subframe bushings, AGX shocks, 275/40/17 nt05s,new oem control arms, 3.9 j30 diff, powder coated everything else)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZTC1Id3dCaVdtRzA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZXFOc0dQcFlTdDA
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbGZ4LVlvTmtNNE0

Hoping for some better traction and wheel hop prevention.

[mgps13]

I got all of the rear suspension put together and installed the wider street tires. On 14 psi it sticks OK on the street, but I am hoping that it will work out at the track too. If the wheel hop doesn't show up then I will be happy.

If any one has a time machine, please go back and time and kill whoever thought it was cool to make all of the Nissan r200 differentials so similar yet still different:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZdmxjWGYxejk3VnM

The J30 diff had 6 bolt axle stubs, but I wanted to keep my 5 bolt R32 axles in my setup. My first thought was to swap the z32 stubs into the j30 diff (WRONG), the J30 DIff stubs are longer and have a larger diameter shaft. Nissan makes 3 different vlsd shaft sizes and spline counts, just to keep things interesting I guess,...fuckers.

Undeterred I came up with the idea of swapping the z32 vlsd unit into the j30 case with the j30 ring and pinion. When this setup is shimmed in the J30 manner you almost get a working diif, except that because of the change in shimming now the z32 vlsd shafts are not the correct length, by like an 1/8th of an inch. This causes the drivers side shaft to stick out a tad too far (no issue), but also causes the passenger side shaft to be just barely too short to get to the c clip grove (those fuckers...) But hey no big deal right, Nissan actually made a diif that has this ratio and the 5 bolt output stubs, unfortunately its not the one in my garage at the moment, so back to the z32 diff for now.

Either way more rubber:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeE9yTWp0N0hydTQ

Rear camber at ~zero
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZVFJFYXQ1RWtTd1U

[mgps13]

Need to run some bigger gears in the back, I'm still on the z32 as I have not found another diff yet. the car seemed to hop worse at times with the increased rubber :(

Right side #15:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZaFhGNlhCT0VoZGs`
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZOXdXR1lFbTlBNUU`

[mgps13]

Car was still sucking at putting down anything at low speeds... Still lots of work todo

mgp 2jz s13 vs z06 (20 roll)
usufTridEnI

mgp 2jz s13 vs 5.0 mustang (40 roll)
dQFyPj8tHDo

mgp 2jz s13 vs turbo nsx (20 roll)
lUkJwJdzXzk

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZktvV3o5UHJycTQ

[ray_dizzle33]

Very very nice man! Great work on the motor especially it looks great! Keep up the good man

[mgps13]

1.9 60ft, running off the spring (9-10psi) in first gear. Second gear (14psi) and then up to about ~18psi for 3-4

9wet1-pJv1A

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZml3OGtURFdTMjQ

Drag radials are next. I am hoping with a better 60ft I can get into the high 10s

[mgps13]

OK so I broke an axle at the track a couple of weeks back which put me down for a little while, but I found an temporary fix for those who are running 5 bolt axles. I picked up a used set of ET street radials in 275 40 r17 for a good price and tried them out. The first time I heat cycled them they umm... worked. What was weird was that I didnt break it at the line it was like 30 feet down the track right about where I finished slipping the clutch. The axle may have been on its way out though from all of the wheel hopping in the past.

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZekpOczdwUTlBeUk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeklubG5ULUdSVnc
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZTFoOEZ0RUtUNlk

Since I am not ready to upgrade to the z32/q45 setup, I found another solution for the time being. It appears that 350z axles are about the same dimensions as the the J30, except in a 6 bolt round pattern. The J30 axles are longer than my old r32 axles but still usable. What I ended up doing is building a hybrid axle from my r32 5 bolt and the z33 6 bolt.

Outside are some J30 axles I borrowed for comparison, inside is 350z:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbEF5QTM2V1NIbkU
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZVlRBVEVRaGdnaXc

Here is the process of turning a 350z axle into a usable 5 bolt axle. The 350z has the same spline on the wheel side as the 240sx, and comes with a lifetime warranty :)
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZd3NxczVpR2tvUTQ

[mgps13]

My r154 shifter housing has always been warped. I got it out a junkyard MKIII for cheap mainly because it had been droped and the housing took most of the injury. Anyways, to get the thing to not sweat gear oil I decided to just remake it for the most part:

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeVhUVElvS1pZSnM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZejM0eW40WjlKYUE
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZTGQySHpqMjd6NWM
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZNDhFajJobVlIVm8
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZanM2U1Q3TmJqM3M

I also added a vent which I did not show here, either way it doesn't sweat anymore. I does however squirt gear oil up through the shifter under heavy load usually at the top of 3rd or 4th FML. (it is not overfilled)

[mgps13]

So my sixty foot is still bad, but I was being gentle to not break another cv axle. I didn't get a chance to run again this night, so I will have to see what happens next time. Please ignore my annoying nervous shifter practice in neutral.

GBXW-haLyVQ

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZN0s5QV9FN214TUU

[Heywood Jablomie]

Damn that thing is fast. Nice build man, love the car!

[mgps13]

tuXW8CWdex0

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeF9kQ2FpeXNhYVk
Stars never line up right and the junkyard r154 goes into 3rd smoothly like one out of three runs. I'm going to try a larger gear next, probably 3.69 from the Q45. I think just the gear alone will push it into the tens.

[Almighty So]

so close!
i believe next update will be 10s. you got this haha

[mgps13]

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZRlJnSElYaXVGYkk

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZd1dINzFHcDVoWUU

Staying with a 275/40/17 but I am going to run a new set of Hoosier drag radials on a pair of track only wheels

[mgps13]

Machined the q45 input flange to fit the s chassis driveshaft:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZbU9PZ3pwTWUyUEk
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeFJtOHoyYW15b28
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZeWlkVlJsV0NDX1U
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZSElhaUlOV3hBVEk

[mgps13]

I decided to go with the Hoosiers for the weight savings over MT and I got a cheap pair of semi-light wheels to run them on. This way I don't ever have to drive them on the street.

still 275/40/17

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZZVZ3b1I1Nkdya1k
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZQWY3RWk2Sks5Nms
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZczJ0bUp3Y2l0eGM

New gearing works out like this:
https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZOFU1NmhZR2dqLVU


^ Now I will just have to see how it goes at the track...

[mgps13]

ttdNGay7vMA

SQz9XaGWCmU

https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZclZHbTZuN1NjYWM

[mgps13]

zgG6Ocun7Lg


https://googledrive.com/host/0B1aTvrSfVKIZMFVvdUpWLWNmeEk

[mgps13]

neaQ8IOdo-g

[Malik]

very nice keep it up