S14 1JZ Vvt-i drift car build

[lucas13dourado]

I have always wanted to make a build thread, so here it is.
I wanted to document this on zilvia because I always find the information I seek on here and I'd like to try to give back to the car community, and if I can help anyone great. Granted what I am doing is a little different because this is a track car, but some of the information is still the same.
Any insightful comments are appreciated
I will be posting some random tech tips in this thread as well

The build will be relatively simple, stock turbo (aiming for 14psi and whatever power that gets me great, I hope the neighborhood of 300whp would be nice), stock everything running on AEM V2, with a Z33 6 speed transmission.
The car previously had a S14 SR with a Garrett GT28rs, Z33 trans, power fc (and many supporting mods).
I'll only post my favorite picture of my car:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14522477722_8cb4cd4a74_b.jpg

When I received the engine:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/16189572160_07d34d0554_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/16350976266_16b8e242dd_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/16189570790_9d9a53b1dc_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7425/16189318408_5fe371fc11_b.jpg

To remove a flywheel or flexplate use a open box wrench, use the close end and thread a bellhousing bolt through it and use another bolt to thread through another bolt on the flexplate (I also had to use a nut behind the flexplate since it's not threaded, with a flywheel you can just use the pressure plate bolt), set it up in a manner where the flywheel can't spin counter-clock wise, and loosen the bolts using a breaker bar, this is assuming you don't have an impact wrench. You can also use this to break the crank bolt loose.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/16189569590_25cb8c7b4c_b.jpg

On the JZ when you remove the A/C compressor, the power steering pump looses one of it's brackets for support, now some people don't care and just run it that way, I will be using a Xcessive manufacturing bracket for this, however if you are trying to save some money you can take apart the compressor, and only use the front cover to properly hand the power steering pump:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7448/16189569280_9b4700e7f6_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/16350973776_c0f94f99a7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7445/16191064727_239490b7e4_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/15754508234_2fc5e2f291_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8683/16375219591_36798d738e_b.jpg

This is my McGiver idea for removing the crank pulley without a puller:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8683/16376049682_56c32d4017_b.jpg

This is more for myself than anything, but here are the timing marks for the engine:

Crank (see the notch on the oil pump lines up to the slot on the crank gear):

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/16375218701_71de628d61_b.jpg

Exhaust cam gear:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7340/16375217451_d03dd2f56a_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8660/15756948773_c06a1b5aa7_b.jpg

Now this is one of the heater core lines coming off the cylinder head, I will not run a heater core, so I decided to weld the plug shut, you could also just remove the pipe, thread the head and put a plug there:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/16375215921_8464111404_b.jpg

And this is the water outlet for the coolant running through the throttle body, I modified mine to remove TRAC so I won't need this, I just welded it shut

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/16376045462_f0408cff62_b.jpg

Since I will not be running a MAF sensor, I won't need to recirculate the air back to the intake, so I modified the turbo outlet to remove the pipe that brings the air to the bov/intake.
I am deleting trac and I wanted to remove the extra plate in the throttle body, and try to give myself more room in the engine bay, I did not do a very good job of cleaning and the welds did not come out so great.. but I don't really care, as long as it's sealed. Welding cast sucks...

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/16375227731_dcc455637d_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/16376951295_13e57832d0_b.jpg

However when you modify the throttle body this way the wheel can turn much further without actuating the flap itself, so I tacked the back to prevent this from happening:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/16189321328_7906d5fa11_b.jpg


This is just the beginning
more later

[lucas13dourado]

Made a bit more progress today

I bought some XXr 968 wheels, and after putting them on and off twice I had problems with the hub bore being so big and the lug nut hole being so small that I almost stripped a couple of studs, so I ordered hubcentric rings, now since I don't want them to come off I made them oblong and pounded them on the hub, this is to help prevent them from coming off every time I switch wheels:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16385617305_40ce05e3ca_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8633/16199705117_f3419fdb97_b.jpg

I then continued taking apart the motor, removed the intake for the turbo and removed the sandwitch plate, off of the motor with the coolant cross over pipe (from back of waterpump to oil cooler):

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8662/16385616015_33b8068131_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/15763162254_23c263136b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/16199389219_ac87c4dd66_b.jpg

Then I removed the oil cooler assembly and took it apart, now you can use a ford part to get rid of the assembly to use an oil cooler (which is what Im doing), the part screws on the block so you can use any sandwich adapter, I took it apart cut the bolt to set the length and re-welded

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/16359634056_3609dbe078_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7333/16197983118_bae6d6335d_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/16199386289_f6be470593_b.jpg

Then I had another couple of bungs to plug up, one goes from the stock oil cooler to the block, the other goes behind the water pump, so I cut the pipe clamped it shut and welded both:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/15763160234_e92140dac2_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/16384694502_7a3a7ff4ff_b.jpg

[Albert_Trd]

Looking Good. Loving some 1j love

[bmaddock]

This is great, picking up my 1JZ VVTI this weekend with very similar goals.

[Options13]

bad ass man, its sick seeing other vvti builds!

I need to update mine! My 1j vvti is gonna be seeing a nice new manifold along with an efr turbo!!

[lucas13dourado]

My 1j vvti is gonna be seeing a nice new manifold along with an efr turbo!!

I am still considering that route, but I will take things one step at a time. EFR turbos are really interesting!

Here is a small update

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/16438961812_b74aa4d61d_b.jpg

I replaced the bearing on the drive belt drive pulley

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/16413933436_24cc28a3ff_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/16413933716_a9c9f2ab37_b.jpg

I took apart the stock timing belt tensioner and put the roller and bolt/nut on the MVP motorsports billet tensioner. If you don't know about these look them up, while I won't make enough power to have a problem with this it is a real issue and I want reliability so why not. The stock one can crack and break, causing catastrophic damage.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/16252243118_41e0dfb003_b.jpg

Next was to rebuild the VVT-i cam gear, I followed this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KQGRulDJSk) and honestly I was a bit concerned I would mess up, but you can't really re-assemble it wrong. The only advice I have is to mark the pulley to the center before you take it apart

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/16439908165_272079e978_b.jpg

And last I continued to take apart the engine, I did remove more than this picture and found other parts I need. now to search and order more parts!

[Albert_Trd]

I was unaware that MVP did the billet tensioner for the 1j. I know a guy on FB makes them. I bought one way back. Never got around to putting it on. Making 755whp at 39psi. Been going good for 3 years now.

Just making sure you didn't buy the 2jz billet tensioner. As they are different. The 1jz timing belt tensioner pulley BRACKET is different then the 2jz BRACKET

The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley. I believe you can run a slightly longer Timing belt IIRC

[tougefactory]

Nice Hubcentric rings! :naughty:

Great start on the build!

[soundboy]

i dont think its wise to block off water ways, rust tends to form since its almost no circ.

thats what happened to me at least. Awesome work by the way

[lucas13dourado]

I was unaware that MVP did the billet tensioner for the 1j. I know a guy on FB makes them. I bought one way back. Never got around to putting it on. Making 755whp at 39psi. Been going good for 3 years now.

Just making sure you didn't buy the 2jz billet tensioner. As they are different. The 1jz timing belt tensioner pulley BRACKET is different then the 2jz BRACKET

The 1jz bracket has a steeper bend to it that allows is to sit further towards the turbo side of the motor. The 1jz timing belt DID NOT fit when I bolted up the 2jz tensioner pulley. I believe you can run a slightly longer Timing belt IIRC

I did not know that, I will make sure to measure everything and see where it ends up and the tension on the belt. Thanks for the heads up!

[az_240]

Cool build, I always think of going 1j vvti myself.... but do you plan to eventually swap turbos and push for higher numbers? Just figured the SR would be a cheaper/lighter/better choice at ~300whp. If you put 400+whp and wanted response and reliability then I'd understand completely.

What adapter/kit are you going to use with the Z33 trans? Also interested in seeing how tuning the vvti turns out if going for higher numbers.

[JZ78]

Awesome build you got going on!

sent from my mind

[jonny mac]

awesome work so far :)

if I was to do my 1j swap all over again I'd pretty much be along the same lines as you, I.e delete the coolant pipework etc

[lucas13dourado]

Cool build, I always think of going 1j vvti myself.... but do you plan to eventually swap turbos and push for higher numbers? Just figured the SR would be a cheaper/lighter/better choice at ~300whp. If you put 400+whp and wanted response and reliability then I'd understand completely.

What adapter/kit are you going to use with the Z33 trans? Also interested in seeing how tuning the vvti turns out if going for higher numbers.

Initially I will max out the stock turbo (aka no more than 15psi) and see what that gets me. Eventually I will upgrade the turbo and go for 400.
I am VERY keen on midrange power. My sr was put together with as much low end torque and mid range in mind, the response was incredible. It had a Gt28rs .63ar, PBM intercooler, PFC, and tomei pro cams (256 I+E). The came on HARD at 3800rpms, and 5000 was max power, around 6800 it would start to peak out.
The idea behind the JZ is to maintain this midrange power/low end torque without going V8. I don't like how V8s sound, but other than that it's a no brainer on a drift car. I can't go much further past 400whp because I can't afford it (tires go too fast haha).
I went VVTi because thats what my SR had (notch top) and that helps a lot.

I am using Maverick Motorsports kit

Thanks for the kind replies guys.

[az_240]

^Sounds like you and I have the same goals. Love the torque of the V8 but having a hard time with how they sound lately, not to mention everyone and their mom going V8.
Keep it up. Can't wait to see how this turns out. May just go 1j vvti afterall.

[lucas13dourado]

Alright guys so this is how far down I am taking this thing, anything past this is unnecessary for me (really all that is left is headgasket and a few random gaskets here and there.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/15878108813_55eb036fd7_b.jpg

I removed cleaned all the gasket material and started cleaning the oil pump as best I could. I also removed the "pressure limiting" bolt/spring combo and resealed it (had to reuse the o-ring)


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/16496517841_5d0b3e06b8_b.jpg

Then I removed the rear main assembly, cleaned it and replaced the seal.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/15878108173_db501920c9_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/16312325867_dcdb1767ed_b.jpg

Removed cleaned and sealed the lower oil pan, pickup and lower pan baffling

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/15878112153_0ecf9fcfb6_b.jpg

Since I will be running a oil temp gauge I thought about using the location where the stock oil level sensor is on JZs, but my sender/probe is not nearly as long as Toyota's so I decided to add a bung I had laying around to the lower oil pan, about midway, and I will tap it to 1/8 -27npt at work

Welded

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/16312330907_c0d5ea03df_b.jpg

And added a quick coat of high temp engine paint

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/16498263335_1104782d97_b.jpg

It is confirmed that I bought the wrong roller bracket from MVP, however I am fairly certain I can grind it down to match the angle of the 1JZ. I will try it and post!
More soon

[Albert_Trd]

I removed cleaned all the gasket material and started cleaning the oil pump as best I could. I also removed the "pressure limiting" bolt/spring combo and resealed it (had to reuse the o-ring)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/16496517841_5d0b3e06b8_b.jpg


It is confirmed that I bought the wrong roller bracket from MVP, however I am fairly certain I can grind it down to match the angle of the 1JZ. I will try it and post!
More soon

Hey Man, I modify oil pumps for the supra community. I drill out both of the bypasses 1mm larger, blend some casting marks, and shim the spring 3mm, and add allen hardware to the rear plate with red locktite (my last motor that plate seperated from the oil pump and all my oil was bypassing into the pan.(12psi on my proefi gauge)
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j182/hitman022005/4E58A7FA-B307-4FA7-9DF1-B0444193FD82_zps2nw9ymjb.jpg

My car now sits at 60psi idle cold, 40psi hot (40wt) and is at about 90psi when i hit 9000rpm. I WOULD HIGHLY recommend not removing that spring/bolt combo. Not only with the oil pump just keep bypassing oil back into the pan through the top breather, but it may bypasses too much oil to actually hurt or lower oil pressure at idle. Leave it in and add 3mm worth of washers. cant go wrong, ive done about 20 of them,

Good to hear on the idler. Modifying should work.

[lucas13dourado]

Oh I'm not removing it haha, I took it off because it appeared to be leaking, I took it off to clean it that's all.
I saw the modified oil pans, real interesting stuff, and good looking out on the bracket though.

[Albert_Trd]

Oh I'm not removing it haha, I took it off because it appeared to be leaking, I took it off to clean it that's all.
I saw the modified oil pans, real interesting stuff, and good looking out on the bracket though.

Okay, was just making sure! I ended up using a random metric oring out of our oring set (sames ones youll find at napa) for that bolt cap fyi

[lucas13dourado]

Okay, was just making sure! I ended up using a random metric oring out of our oring set (sames ones youll find at napa) for that bolt cap fyi

Oh right on, that's what I did with the VVTI solenoid!

Alright guys small update, as pointed out the 2JZ and the 1JZ timing belt billet tensioner bracket are different. Luckily the 2jz one has a lot more metal than the 1jz so I made up a "jig" for it to make sure the angles were right, and used my grinder to cut down the excess metal keeping in mind the angle at which the tensioner pushes on the bracket, I then used 3m whizzy wheel to get a more polished look/smoother surface under it

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8588/16709899272_6b4a4e9487_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/16709677511_21a0e8fa3f_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/16088640854_f46d262a5c_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/16523555770_83da6e9f48_b.jpg

And then I made a little more progress on the engine, installed lower oil pan, water pump assembly and alternator

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8683/16088639684_16da45ea02_b.jpg

I didnt put on the upper water neck because I am installing my water temp gauge in it, so I need to drill and tap it. More later!

[lucas13dourado]

update:

Got the water temp sensor installed and installed the water neck on the engine

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7625/16850636885_35dcf77746_b.jpg

I was confused as to where each of the cam seals went (the part numbers online keep saying the exhaust is intake and vice versa depending on where you get your info from)... but when you set them on the motor it's completely obvious haha

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/16664510089_db005445cc_b.jpg

Installed both cam gears and torqued

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8608/16849496782_b8c18e81b4_b.jpg

Then I went on to install the valve covers aaaaand broke a corner like an idiot... so I removed it, cleaned it as best as I could and welded it

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8617/16849592691_bc43748e29_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/16849497762_7da6d1ac4e_b.jpg

I then got excited and went to town and forgot to take pictures of the install of the timing belt, crank pulley, covers etc. Here is a picture of the Xcessive manufacturing PS pump bracket and the idler pulley lock (unnecessary for my power goals, but I dont want my belt jumping around)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8574/16228282834_d8a65571be_b.jpg

Torquing the crank pulley was a damn nightmare, I am using a Fluidampr pulley and it calls for 239ft/lbs on the jz. I locked the crank from the flywheel side using my prybar and a couple of bolts, that didn't work, so I tried a few different combinations to get it torqued to spec. A bolt on the crank, a prybar and a bolt on the bellhousing did the trick.
This is how the engine sits as of right now, I ordered the spark plugs and will replace those, that is the last thing I need to replace before dropping the engine in (still got intake manifold and wiring to do, I need to figure out exactly what wires I need to run the engine and nothing more so I can do a moderate tuck and clean up the engine bay as much as I can)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7645/16824774136_df17d1e415_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8643/16849593571_c6dcc157b3_b.jpg

More in a couple of weeks (hopefully)

[bmaddock]

Nice dude! We are at very similar positions of the build. I'm finishing up my timing and maintenance this week. When's your estimated completion date? Or no rush, whenever it happens?

[JRex]

How does the z33 tranny line up in the s13s and s14s? I was thinking about going rb25 but a 1j with a z33 6-speed sounds fun.

[lucas13dourado]

Bmaddock I don't have a date set in mind, I want to catch the season peak though, so I hope it's done by May? But yeah not in a hurry, been working a lot and got other projects too.
Jrex I'm going to find out soon, I hope it all lines up tits and I don't have to modify the engine mounts. I hope the engine sits pretty far back, fingers crossed.
But my sr wad a totally different monster with the z33 behind it, I loved it

[lucas13dourado]

Update from last weekend:

removed the ignition coils, inspected them and put new spark plugs in (BKR7EIX), the pistons have some carbon build up, but not too bad. Sadly the bolts were stripped from when the engine was compression tested at the importer, so I cleaned the threads up and installed slightly longer bolts and they are good.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7686/16859353269_f2c049327c_b.jpg

Installed the pilot bearing and pilot bearing adapter:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7660/17019565096_6943771ae5_b.jpg

then I installed the adapter plate on the engine, and tried to install the starter, it didn't quite fit, I had to grind down the adapter, the starter and the bellhousing here are some pictures:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8722/16857791328_7e36ee4d10_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8702/16838170067_c436fc76c8_b.jpg

Then I drilled the threads off of the starter, since how the starter is bolted in from the starter side to adapter, I had to make sure the bolts didnt go through all the way otherwise the trans doesnt sit flush with the adapter. I'll measure the bolts later so I can give you guys a good idea of length

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/16425426383_fcdaf44ac1_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8794/16858040060_604311babf_b.jpg

I then looked and looked and looked for the torque spec of the aluminum flywheel included with maverick's kit, and could not find it, he wasn't answering his phone so I went ahead bolted the transmission to the engine, I had to grind down the dowel pins so the transmission sat completely flush against the adapter plate, then I started playing the "lets see what doesnt fit" game, and pull the engine in and out

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8750/16859357709_814026bb6a_b.jpg

so first off the sway bar hit the oil pan, I dont think it will fit anymore, then the second "bridge" on the oil pan was hitting the steering rack (I think this is happening because of the PBM eccentric spacers, so I ground that part down

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8772/17044119842_2d909be71d_b.jpg

Then I started to jack up the transmission to see where it would sit, it sits even further back than when I had the SR in it, and this is with the Excessive brackets all the way forward, I will have to clearance out the brackets for the trans cross member because I want the transmission as high up into the chassis as possible, I will post pictures later.
Here is where the transmission sits (after I cut out another part of my trans tunnel:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8693/17019562746_516ac51479_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8799/17045572145_d95eab9f52_b.jpg


So the sad news is, my initial plan to use the old trans cross member and driveshaft will not work.
So I have to get the engine sitting exactly where I want, clearance everything, make my trans cross member, and then measure the end of the transmission to the input flange of the differential and send that info to shaftmasters.com and they will make me a driveshaft.
More soon

[lucas13dourado]

Small update of big proportions, made the transmission corss member, it didnt turn out as pretty as I wanted it to, but its solid and it places the transmission exactly where I want it, so I'm ok with it:

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7752/18056603575_a9affbc3df_b.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7682/18030110526_b16fc03f2a_b.jpg

Then I made the fan shroud, I am going to use Infiniti G37 fans controlling them with AEM/a couple of 25amp relays. These move a lot of air, and hopefully it's enough to keep this thing cool. They are bigger than the actual radiator, so it looks a bit goofy

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8811/18056605655_f736bc6ebc_b.jpg

Now I have to remake my whole tube front, so I bought a bender and notcher, I still need to buy the material, so at this point the updates may slow down a bit. But I will post with updates as they come

[AzS13hatch]

Looking really nice man. It seems there are more and more 1j builds coming along in here. I can't wait to get back to the states and put the finishing touches on mine and take a bunch of pictures.

[Black240Ct]

bring this thing back from the dead. great pics. good read. any updates?

[Heywood Jablomie]

Is your trans internal or external slave cylinder? The mavericks guy told me I would not need the concentric slave cylinder spacer using the full kit but I have a significant gap between my throw out bearing and clutch diaphragm.

[Black240Ct]

Is your trans internal or external slave cylinder? The mavericks guy told me I would not need the concentric slave cylinder spacer using the full kit but I have a significant gap between my throw out bearing and clutch diaphragm.

i had a similar issue with the clutch i was running on my SR with z33 trans. ended up putting a spacer to space out the pivot, solved it for me, on external slave

[rawgarage]

External slave is where it's at!

[lucas13dourado]

Guys, sorry there have been no updates, a bunch of crazy shit happened at work and I was freaking out so I didn't touch the car and it just sat for about 6 months. Now things have calmed down and I am ready to get back to working on it! So here is an update.

I got my ass kicked by the tube front, measuring a 3 dimensional space is the most difficult thing I have ever done.. And only having a tig welder makes things pretty interesting when welding at very awkward angles.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1507/26536952982_324a3d525b_b.jpg

This is the shot to the factory frame rails, mine are f'ed since the car has been in quite a few crashes. This was the most difficult part to weld and not blow through

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1505/26603590026_8257342177_b.jpg

Then I set off to make the hood pins and radiator support, this is when my OCD started to cringe. I tried my best, but from side to side it's uneven which means things are not completely symmetrical. It took me a good 7 hours to make both side hood pins, and another 4 hours to make the radiator support, which after all said and done did not fix the headlights correctly.. So rather than re-making it, I just said screw it and cut the headlights to fit (thank got I dont do this for a living)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1569/26356807740_942809e4bf_b.jpg

I also ordered the CXracing aluminum upper radiator hose. Seen here

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1641/26603589116_e49c614349_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1468/26536951522_2376515f9b_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1707/26603588026_f9e7437374_b.jpg

Then it was time to make the throttle cable work. My engine came with a cut jzx100 cable, so I took the factory cable and measured from the firewall to the cut section on the existing cable and cut it. Then on the inside I just used bycicle brake cable stops, I don't like the look, but it should do the trick. If all goes to hell I am going to weld a washer to the end of it.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1608/26564693701_0de47e4841_b.jpg

I don't like that the brake booster nipples comes out of the wrong side in the JZs, I know everyone just routes the hose that way and calls it good, I decided to cut the nipple off and flip it to the drivers side.
I also trimmed the coolant lines that run through the idle air control valve.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1706/26026537893_13e58cc3ec_b.jpg

I mounted the oil cooler where it used to be, except flipped it inward because I had to get rid of my powered by max high mount intercooler since it no longer fit (I was pretty bummed out), so I had this intercooler laying around, it's enormous but it will have to do. If you note I drilled a hole and welded a nut to the factory cross rail so I can bolt the FMIC on it. I also routed the lines, cut them and attached the AN fittings, they go to my thermostatic oil cooler sandwich adapter whatever you call it thing, and yes, I will use a NISSAN oil filter haha

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1654/26564692061_92e7d1900e_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1691/26026535733_3713b46a64_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1706/26564690701_d9d79ce7c8_b.jpg

Next was intercooler pipes, I had some stuff laying around, but had to order some stuff, once it arrived cut and welded it. The guys sent me the wrong coupler (blue instead of black....god damn idiots). I will be runnning my old synapse bov. Later i will try to polish up the pipes so they look clean.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1515/26026534143_c4460c6da8_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1601/26564689171_6d21d18df6_b.jpg

Then lastly, the intake. what I did was I cut the factory turbo intake plenum deal and just cut it right at the entry of the turbo, took some bent piping and put the air filter just behind the bumper, I may have to run one of those air filter water sock things when it rains (hope I remember)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1643/26026532163_ea08331656_b.jpg

Sorry it took so long!

Is your trans internal or external slave cylinder? The mavericks guy told me I would not need the concentric slave cylinder spacer using the full kit but I have a significant gap between my throw out bearing and clutch diaphragm.

Sounds like you got this solved, I am running the last version of the external slave version. I would have no problem running the internal slave type though! They are equally a pain in the dick to bleed so it doesn't matter haha.

[EnvisionMore]

Looking good so far. Curious on how the g37 fans fit with the Koyo radiator. I'm currently swapping a 2j into my s14 and worried about how hot it might get crammed in there. Any better pictures of the fans mounted and how close they are to the belts?

Looking forward to more updates!

[lucas13dourado]

Looking good so far. Curious on how the g37 fans fit with the Koyo radiator. I'm currently swapping a 2j into my s14 and worried about how hot it might get crammed in there. Any better pictures of the fans mounted and how close they are to the belts?

Looking forward to more updates!

I'll get some, I don't think they would fit in the factory location I a car with a stock core support. My radiator Ida tilted like 15* and it just barely clears it so they won't be a good option for everyone.
I'm also running a excessive damper lockout so that doesn't help any with clearance

[NorcalAP2]

Great build! for the starter, there are 2 styles I believe. you are using the "closed" style. there is an "open style".

http://my.prostreetonline.com/2015/07/02/how-to-install-your-cd009-starter/

Just FYI :)

[lucas13dourado]

Great build! for the starter, there are 2 styles I believe. you are using the "closed" style. there is an "open style".

http://my.prostreetonline.com/2015/07/02/how-to-install-your-cd009-starter/

Just FYI :)

Nice, that's exactly what I did without knowing it haha. If you can edit your post though and not quote all the pictures that would be awesome! Please!

Update: I removed all the fuel lines from the right side of the car and cut them and used a double flare tool to flare the ends and tried my very best to keep them as safe as possible, and as close as possible to the body and away from danger, I am not a fan of fire. It is so difficult to take pictures under the car, so I apologize in advance for the shitty shots. I removed the fuel lines, hard lines and everything, I then rotated the pump to face toward the drivers side, ran the lines above the tank and droppped them close to the tank, where I am concerned about contact with the car I cut old hose and wrap it. It's the best way to keep an eye on any fraying or anything that could go bad.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1466/26764988845_628ffacb68_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/26764983935_ac47ce41a0_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1564/26159544504_60289dbb22_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1500/26764987195_6ac39149ae_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1668/26159542684_3cede4a67a_b.jpg

Aaaaaand Zip ties.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1550/26764986205_252974eeea_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/26159539204_f7d29ded82_b.jpg

For the fuel filter I used the stock filter holder but cut a slit on it to put a hose clamp around it, the last thing I want is for it to pop out of the holder and hit the ground.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1448/26764984795_570dc96ccd_b.jpg

This is where I will add the fuel hose condom I explained above and get it tight to the frame so it doesn't get caught on the steering column

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1540/26159536834_ceea5050e2_b.jpg

Here I cut the crimp so I could reuse the banjo bolt that toyota put there, i am not 100% sure what that thing is, I can only assume is a damper of some sort, anyway, it'll stay in for now. (if someone actually knows tell me, I am curious!)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1481/26159535394_c7883a933c_b.jpg

Lastly, the return line, which is longer than I wanted it to be, but it'll be under the manifold so it's out of sight

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1670/26159550744_4bca96d53c_b.jpg

[corkscrew]

Awesome work dude

[greenwood]

Is that line fuel injection line? Looks like regular carb line.

[lucas13dourado]

Is that line fuel injection line? Looks like regular carb line.

You are absolutely right. Thank you so much.
Pm me your PayPal info, I'm sending you beer money

[Press22]

Here I cut the crimp so I could reuse the banjo bolt that toyota put there, i am not 100% sure what that thing is, I can only assume is a damper of some sort, anyway, it'll stay in for now. (if someone actually knows tell me, I am curious!)



Fuel Pulsation Damper. Many remove it, some swear that you get a 2500-3000rpm stutter if you do.

Personally I remove it/bypass on all my JZs and haven't had an issue yet.

[lucas13dourado]

Fuel Pulsation Damper. Many remove it, some swear that you get a 2500-3000rpm stutter if you do.

Personally I remove it/bypass on all my JZs and haven't had an issue yet.

Ah! Well since I have to redo my lines anyway I'm going to see if/how I can delete it.
Thank you

[bmaddock]

+1 to Press22. I kept mine and have no issues. Sounds like it's up to you if you want to remove or keep it.

Good progress dude! I like how you did the fuel lines, I might copy you haha.

[lucas13dourado]

+1 to Press22. I kept mine and have no issues. Sounds like it's up to you if you want to remove or keep it.

Good progress dude! I like how you did the fuel lines, I might copy you haha.

Do it!!

More progress:

Made the coolant reservoir bracket, and realized I bought the wrong T-fitting for my coolant system, derp. I will be running the "live" cooling system in hopes it will further decrease the chances of coolant cavitation and keep air out of the system, who the hell knows it it'll work but we'll see!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7627/26892481446_e2f5dc4730_b.jpg

And modified the sway bar, this is pretty scary honestly, but I ran it by the girlfriend who is a mechanical engineer and she is not worried about it, so if it breaks I can yell at her for it! Haha.
The sway bar needed to be extended toward the ground so it would clear the oil pan, while I was doing that I figured I'd get the PBM sway bar brackets as well.
First and biggest issue is when done the sway bar sits inboard toward the frame more, so I needed to extend the sway bar link, I don't particularly like the idea of extending the bolt, so I welded a nut to the end of the sway bar and ran another one in front of it as a locking nut.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/26892480946_69ec53bfc1_b.jpg

Next was extending it downward

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/26322119483_e55d21956b_b.jpg

And the sway bar strength deal that PBM sends with their kits, not sure why the angles look so weird on this picture, but it's straight haha

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7595/26892482556_de256d6eb3_b.jpg

and the end result, clearance wise

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7585/26322120913_a0262bdb73_b.jpg

I started making the exhaust, but ran out of argon for the welder... more next week

[Press22]

I wanted to ask you about the heater ports you welded shut. That doesn't create a hot spot of no flow in the back of the head?

[lucas13dourado]

I wanted to ask you about the heater ports you welded shut. That doesn't create a hot spot of no flow in the back of the head?

I really don't think so and here is why:

http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf084.jpg

The diagram shows what I cut off, and basically the coolant will flow the same route except it will go from inlet (water pump) through the block, then head, thermostat and radiator, and to the turbo. That's it. I know what you mean, and I am slightly concerned about it, but them FD nerds are all blocking this stuff off, so I am pretty confident it'll be fine, otherwise I will be buying a VVTi head when I replace the headgasket on it! Haha

[Press22]

Gotcha, I've actually had it blocked off on mine for a year but my car ran hot... which is possibly unrelated, it's just really hot in Vegas.

I'm now building a second 1JZ car and wanted to weld a AN bung on there to cap it off (I can't weld though :()

[lucas13dourado]

Gotcha, I've actually had it blocked off on mine for a year but my car ran hot... which is possibly unrelated, it's just really hot in Vegas.

I'm now building a second 1JZ car and wanted to weld a AN bung on there to cap it off (I can't weld though :()

Yeah Vegas is a different animal man those 110+ degrees are no joke.
I can barely weld haha, gotta start somewhere tough!

[lucas13dourado]

Finshed the exhaust last night. I bought the CX racing downpipe added a brace to it, so it would bolt to the trans cross member (I learned on my SR that if you don't hang your downpipe, you are going to be replacing exhaust gaskets constantly. The weight of the pipe pulls down on it just enough to loosen the bolts and the gasket gives out).
The downpipe ends about halfway down the transmission, so I decided I wanted to make the exhaust out of aluminum, bought the flange, piping and rod to make the hangers. The piping is .065" wall and 3" OD. The reviews are extremely mixed, I wouldn't try this if it was a street car, but I am very intrigued. My main concern is cracks over time, so I will just have to keep my eye on it.
I am happy with how close it sits to the car, since clearance is very important, I need to do more research on welding aluminum, the start/stop makes it very difficult to lay down consistent beads, but the welds won't break, that's for sure.
and I apologize the pictures are out of focus and dark

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/26830574900_1761e40c35_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/27104685465_673af6b937_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/27104696715_459061a579_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7394/27071469966_be97143e2b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/26499158284_1ed9a94736_b.jpg