Help! Nagging CEL won't go away >:(

[simmode1]

Searched around & couldn't find a solution to my exact problem, so I thought I'd make a post because Zilvia is my only hope at this point! I got a bone stock OBDII '95 S14 with the original auto KA. It's had a CEL on since I bought it years ago & I can't get it to go away. Car drives & shifts gears just fine except for the tach needle bouncing around wildly from time to time. Pulled the codes on it and got these: p1445 & p0325. I replaced the knock sensor & the evap canister purge volume control valve, cleared the lights and they came right back. I need this fixed to pass inspection. I'm tired of paying $$$ under the table to get a sticker for a bone stock car!!! What am I missing here?

[FaLKoN240]

You need to get it diagnosed by a technician with Nissan consult.

Turned out a purge solenoid was broken under/in the intake manifold when I had p1445. It's a pain in the ass and you'll go nuts trying to chase it down.

Also, if you're still getting a code for the knock sensor you may have gotten the wrong one. I bought 2 before I got that code to go away.

[simmode1]

I replaced the knock sensor & evap canister thingie years ago when I first got the car to no avail. Last summer, I had a local 240 specialist look at the issue and do it again. Still no fix. I would hope we would have used the right parts since it was done twice, but I'll check again. A broken off solenoid sounds pretty crappy & pretty plausible though. I'll check into that. Any other suggestions, guys?

[FaLKoN240]

Yeah to be specific the solenoid opens and closes a valve, it got stuck and broke itself over time.

[TaylorGang!]

Disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes a couple blocks from where plan on getting the inspection. Reconnect and drive immediately there light should stay off for 30 miles/minutes or so.. Usually works, temp fix to get the car inspected until you can fix the problem permanently anyways... Or there is always ye olé electrical tape cover up :D gl

[freepunk]

Disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes a couple blocks from where plan on getting the inspection. Reconnect and drive immediately there light should stay off for 30 miles/minutes or so.. Usually works, temp fix to get the car inspected until you can fix the problem permanently anyways... Or there is always ye olé electrical tape cover up :D gl

Won't work. The car will most likely read as "Not Ready." Electrical tape wont hide the codes inside the ECU. My 98 was throwing the exact same codes and it ended up being a short in my fuel pump wiring. Best of luck and I feel your pain. Took me forever to find the short.

[simmode1]

TaylorGang! - I actually did try the once. Failed utterly. This guy actually made me start the car & let it sit for like 20 minutes. I was sweating bullets. Light came back on as soon as he pulled it onto the rollers. Gotta get this thing fixed for real. Last time, I had to drive an hour & pay someone $200 to "pass" it. It's so annoying! Arrrgh!

[tiggertsi]

Won't work. The car will most likely read as "Not Ready." Electrical tape wont hide the codes inside the ECU. My 98 was throwing the exact same codes and it ended up being a short in my fuel pump wiring. Best of luck and I feel your pain. Took me forever to find the short.

not trying to hijack this thread but how did you actually figure out it was a short in the fuel pump wiring? besides the codes were there any other symptoms?

[freepunk]

It would very briefly hesitate at high rpms then throw those codes. The codes would remain on and when driving normal everything seem fined. The car died on the freeway one day and finally found the broken wire on the plug, inside the fuel tank. Fixed the wire and have been code free for 3 years.

[simmode1]

^^^Weird. I'm not having any of those symptoms yet we get the same codes. OBDII is a load of crap. lol

[tiggertsi]

OBDII is a load of crap. lol

agreed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!