Wiring/ starting issues

[nddavis2]

Long story short I came into possession of a very rough but running hatch with a vq35de swap. Didn't come w a battery so I bought one to put in. My buddy was putting it in while I went inside and he decided to hook up the terminals backwards. Won't start now.

I'm getting 12 volts at the battery, between battery and 12 volt connection on the starter. Jumped the terminals on the starter to make sure it would spin, which it did. Checked for voltage for ignition and there's my issue. Interlock has been deleted so that's not the issue and I checked continuity on fuses and they're good.

2 questions:

What do I need to check next?
Would a push start button wired to work when key is in acc position start it?

Frustrated because I know this could go all the way to the ecu but having issues finding where to check for the signal.

Thanks in advance.

[Javi802]

Hook the volt meter up to the battery and test it while turning the engine over.

[nddavis2]

Engine doesn't turn over as of now or are you talking about when I try to put power to the ignition connection? Which I'm going to do this weekend.

[Javi802]

Ah. Didn't know it wouldn't even turn over.

[nddavis2]

Nah starter doesn't get the 12 volt signal from the ignition so it doesn't trigger the solenoid.

[Javi802]

you're sure it didn't fry any fuses?

[nddavis2]

Checked all in the main box for continuity and all checked good

[Javi802]

May need a new starter.

[nddavis2]

Yes that's still a possibility but as of now I'm not getting a signal from the ignition to trigger the solenoid and rotate the starter

[sr22hatch]

Did the same thing and fried my ecu replaced it and turned on

[nddavis2]

How did you know the ecu was fried?

[dbeiler]

Since when does the ECU have anything to do with cranking the engine? You can disconnect the ECU and it'll still crank. I don't have an S13 but it can't be that much different from my 14s. Starting circuit works like this: Battery power > battery feed to underhood fusebox >underhood fuse box > 30amp fuse > wire running to ignition switch > ignition switch > wire running back out to fusebox > clutch interlock relay (ONLY if manual) or inhibitor switch (ONLY if automatic) > wire running to starter motor.

So you have no power at the ignition key? That narrows it down to: the battery, one fuse, and one wire running to ignition.

[dbeiler]

Car should have one power wire running to the ignition key from the fusebox. On the S14 that is a thick white wire. Then, there should be several other thick wires running back out to the fusebox. On the S14, the black/yellow wire is STARTER and the black/red wire is IGN, FUEL, etc. You need to test if you have 12v power coming in to the ignition key.

[nddavis2]

Thank you dbeiler. I have checked the fsm and know how the circuit works for the starter. The starter is a very simple system, especially with the clutch interlock deleted. 12 volt from ignition is a black / yellow wire. I'll check for sure the power coming to the ignition however I do know when I turn the key, it triggers everything except the 12 volt starter signal. Can see/ hear the throttle body open and hear things click on.

[dbeiler]

Ok, do you have access to the electrical side of your key cylinder? Remove the plastic pieces around the steering shaft to gain access for testing the electrical terminals on the cylinder. If you have power coming in (sounds like you've already verified that) and you DON'T have power coming out at the starter power wire when you hold the key to 'Start' position, you'll need a new electrical ignition switch. Fairly common problem on these cars. $50 for a new one or you can attempt to disassemble and clean the old one.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae27/davidibeiler/how-to-wire-s13_zpse49533c0.jpg (http://s954.photobucket.com/user/davidibeiler/media/how-to-wire-s13_zpse49533c0.jpg.html)

[dbeiler]

The picture I posted shows the starter wire as black/white instead of black/yellow as you suggested. May need to double-check the FSM.

[nddavis2]

Thank you very much. I do know the ignition acts really stupid as right now I've got it apart because the key doesn't cut everything off completely. Continues to get voltage after disengaged so I have to do everything w a screwdriver. Will check tomorrow.

[nddavis2]

Finally had a let up in the rain to check the ignition. I get 12 volts in each position, including the start position. I have not been able to hook everything up and try to jumper the starter and bypass the signal yet. From the switch, the starter signal goes where? Through the ecu or into the fuse box?

[claaasssiiiccc21]

It goes to the starter relay which goes to the starter solenoid. The b/w and b/y wire discrepency is because the colors change from the ignition switch plug to the corresponding chassis harness plug. You want to take a screwdriver or i prefer medium sized needle nosed pliers and jump the White AND B/W wires on the harness or the corresponding wires on the ignition switch shown above (use pliers to jump the white/red trace AND black/yellow trace wires by poking the soldered balls on the back of the switch with the tips of the pliers). This effectively tests if your ignition switch is good or not and should make the car crank.

[nddavis2]

Alright thank you. I'll try that the next time the rain stops. Starter relay is the blue one beside the battery that's related to the clutch interlock? Before the battery was hooked up backwards it ran without this connected. I'm trying to fight through the nightmare that is the wiring for this. Crap I just remembered something. There was a wire with a spade connector plugged into one of the plugs. I made an assumption this was for the terribly wired fans. Let me trace down where it goes...

[nddavis2]

Still need some ideas guys. Ignition is working and car started once then died in about 10 seconds. Ideas?

And yes, I have fuel pressure as I have an adjustable fpr attached

[Ilya]

Does fuel pressure build when the car is ignition is "ON" ?? Might have to prime the system which can take some time. Reverse polarity on an electrical system causes fuel pump to run backwards, essentially sucking out all the fuel out of fuel rail. Of course there are a million other things that can go wrong when you introduce a negative voltage.

[nddavis2]

Yeah fuel pressure builds when the ignition is in the on position. That's how I checked to make sure I was getting pressure. I got a code reader to see if it's throwing any to give me an idea. Reversing polarity on anything worries me. Going to change fuel filter out as well

[laurentj23]

Im having almost the same issues except this on my ls swap. What happen if there's no volts reading in any of the cables by the ignition switch?

[Ilya]

If there is no voltage, that means there is a break between the source and the ignition. If you shorted out your car, any wire in the system draws many more amps than what it is designed for. When that happens, metal heats up and vaporizes, only the bigger gauge wire survives. Start from the battery and work your way into the fuse box, from the fuse box to the ignition switch. FSM and a Digital Volt Meter is your best friend.

[Ilya]

Yeah fuel pressure builds when the ignition is in the on position. That's how I checked to make sure I was getting pressure. I got a code reader to see if it's throwing any to give me an idea. Reversing polarity on anything worries me. Going to change fuel filter out as well

Fuel Filter wont solve an electrical problem. Its most likely electrical. Give your starter a few taps(not smash it) with a wrench. If that doesn't work, then a good old trusty volt meter is your best bet.

[laurentj23]

If there is no voltage, that means there is a break between the source and the ignition. If you shorted out your car, any wire in the system draws many more amps than what it is designed for. When that happens, metal heats up and vaporizes, only the bigger gauge wire survives. Start from the battery and work your way into the fuse box, from the fuse box to the ignition switch. FSM and a Digital Volt Meter is your best friend.

So what do i do check for continuity, volts or resistance from the fusebox to the ignition switch?

[nddavis2]

Ah I go to check codes and battery is dead so codes have been wiped minus the one it had when I got it. Get the great fast clicking starter solenoid even when I'm trying to jump it off. Loving my luck.

[Ilya]

Id check for voltage first to narrow down where the continuity of the wire is broken. Finding where that is, is going to be an adventure.

Give you starter a couple of taps with a rubber mallet. If that doesnt work then pull out the starter and test it by jumping it directly to battery.

There are ALOT of variables here and you really need to start testing everything until you find something.

[laurentj23]

If there is no voltage, that means there is a break between the source and the ignition. If you shorted out your car, any wire in the system draws many more amps than what it is designed for. When that happens, metal heats up and vaporizes, only the bigger gauge wire survives. Start from the battery and work your way into the fuse box, from the fuse box to the ignition switch. FSM and a Digital Volt Meter is your best friend.

I hope this video can explain better about the issue I'm having.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAD8VREC1hc&feature=youtu.be

[slider2828]

Since when does the ECU have anything to do with cranking the engine? You can disconnect the ECU and it'll still crank. I don't have an S13 but it can't be that much different from my 14s. Starting circuit works like this: Battery power > battery feed to underhood fusebox >underhood fuse box > 30amp fuse > wire running to ignition switch > ignition switch > wire running back out to fusebox > clutch interlock relay (ONLY if manual) or inhibitor switch (ONLY if automatic) > wire running to starter motor.

So you have no power at the ignition key? That narrows it down to: the battery, one fuse, and one wire running to ignition.

That is if you are running a non fuel injected car.

The ecu has all the spark and ignition drivers in it. The ecu will work on ground terminals. The ecu based on the cas will tell the ecu where the crank is and then fire the correct spark plug. If you put enough power through the harness and your fuse doesn't blow, the voltage will travel to the ecu and burn out your ignition drivers.

Don't do all this stupid chasing around. Try a new ecu and come back with results. Your wiring loom unless its hack to hell is fine.

[nddavis2]

A new ecu isn't the easiest thing given the swap. Have to find one that matches the current then send it for NATS Removal. That being the case I'm trying to eliminate all else before doing that.

I did get it to start and run for about 10 seconds before it died on me however I had to hold the key in the start position for about 20 seconds. Battery is now so dead it won't jump start. Only get fast starter clicks. Of course I didn't have a code scanner with me and battery was dead by the time I got back. Was hoping those 10 seconds would give me a code.

[slider2828]

Ugh.... I feel for you man. That sucks....

So just reiterating what you said.

Fuel pump turns on.
Starter Cranks

Only problem is spark. Which you are saying it works when you hold the ignition in start position? I thought you weren't getting any spark?

[nddavis2]

That's part of where I realized I hadn't updated the post completely.

Fuel pump turns on, starter cranks. Actually got it to start 1 time and run for about 10 seconds and then it died. Haven't been able to get it to start since.
I need to remove the coils and check to visually verify I have spark which I will do tomorrow

[slider2828]

That's part of where I realized I hadn't updated the post completely.

Fuel pump turns on, starter cranks. Actually got it to start 1 time and run for about 10 seconds and then it died. Haven't been able to get it to start since.
I need to remove the coils and check to visually verify I have spark which I will do tomorrow

Cool man good luck... if you get inconsistent spark, then its somewhere in the harness

[nddavis2]

Thanks. When I check it tomorrow I'll repost on here what I find. I really need to replace the harness. I'd love to just have one made but those sucker are crazy expensive

[nddavis2]

Not going to be able to check spark for a few more days. Need help on the 350z harness.n3 plugs I have no home for.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/350x300q90/908/ndkznk.jpg
Has yellow/ red wire and orange wire and runs near the back of the engine

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/350x300q90/540/NvpecP.jpg
Blue/ green I think the single wire is. Located near the maf plug

Don't have a pic of the 3rd but it's basically same as the first but has a light brown/ yellow wire and black.

Just need to know what these should go to on the vq as it could be part of my issues.