VAs13
01-01-2015, 08:27 AM
I've had this issue with both my stock GT-R and Nismo units so i did tons of searching to finally solve this issue. I used a guide from the UK site and it solved my problem on both units but some pictures would no longer load. I took some pictures as i did my second one. A friend with an S14 had the same issue and had his fixed the next day after i showed him this.
VIDEO*tach is at 10k+ RPM while idling and jumping around
http://youtu.be/92Xwml4MR9k
As you can see the car is in the ON position but not cranked and my cluster is jumping all over the place from 0-11k RPM and does the same upon start up. You can see in the video above as well with my old unit.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10422036_10155058303540038_9088969665912271956_n.j pg?oh=08f1b45a70f5205e7f2061bbbc9ad995&oe=54FC9535&__gda__=1430030115_c220709afbf9b5136e366ccd53ef300 5
Tools used:
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10896958_10155058261915038_5286794196230387602_n.j pg?oh=837def96680cf55b391ad709654f6262&oe=5539C568
Once you have the Tach out, remove the two screws holding the board to the tach and desolder the 4 connections in between.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10422399_10155058263260038_3034885968237600950_n.j pg?oh=48840c38777638384fe3029720385c89&oe=5543A8CA&__gda__=1425877980_258192b7e0d97d625f1842ade5eb8b3 4
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10891835_10155058263085038_4609826248281126714_n.j pg?oh=9007e96a94f6bb807bd2de89a2ea021c&oe=55364F8A
Next you will see the 22pin chip that is on the board, this is what you want to remove.
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10671289_10155058262940038_4064700647164542319_n.j pg?oh=d6c9cee0fe052d7f8915b05c04494c79&oe=5537DCA3
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/63757_10155058262735038_568141654784178976_n.jpg?o h=2b3ecd2c95f0f2bc50106d4a542538b1&oe=552D319F&__gda__=1430188130_d139e89b2c4a63de72aba207cda0268 d
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10881562_10155058262655038_2632786947672199956_n.j pg?oh=85f182becb91f35b6e8d6ca305a6c03b&oe=5538C6E6&__gda__=1428506291_d4d2bd88765f373e5763938d4ed4454 b
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10906072_10155058262605038_5956865800514342821_n.j pg?oh=8ff4876baa07a286d923392382edfee2&oe=55291DA2&__gda__=1429978871_eca83f1c9a5a09fe4592a066614b8ba d
So you should have something like this, be sure to be very careful on the next step
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10419580_10155058262460038_5309040445433925668_n.j pg?oh=aab45d2b358b97ae8080892f86f98f7f&oe=5547D634
Since Nissan didnt put very much room for the socket to make a great connection to the board we will be allowing it to make a better connection, thus making your tach work.
What you want to do is scrape off bits of the solder resist*the lighter parts on the board* but be sure to stay with in that specific pins circuit. For this i simply used a razor blade to scrape bits off as such.
Start:
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10885355_10155058262325038_4361330205577389311_n.j pg?oh=622a47a10c5eb0e219136ad910f0378e&oe=552894F9
Finish:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10906233_10155058262205038_8377065274287079242_n.j pg?oh=2895ff4fb000a867a110903c287da1a2&oe=553669FA&__gda__=1429647340_36298635446fe53fd2356d7272aee7b 9
Once this is done you can re-install your 22pin chip, soldering it back on.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10898206_10155058262045038_75437927700608370_n.jpg ?oh=1f23451646a65e95f32c23c2f8e5fbc5&oe=5536118D&__gda__=1429600593_f12f1b8436ca5108f8d9f0a4569fd97 3
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10906448_10155058262125038_1953815646841526721_n.j pg?oh=0194110ef69ae0404305f627e8ad8e55&oe=553D3EFB&__gda__=1429762478_c2bbbc28434f2849e2753b046dccbe1 0
Replace the board on the tach itself, put the two screws back in and resolder those 4 connections and you are finished. The first time doing this i took my time so it was a few hours of work; however the second time it only took me 30mins or so to complete. Both the Nismo cluster and stock clusters share the same board so it does work for both units.
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10897886_10155058261990038_4193380863907156219_n.j pg?oh=62173cfdaeec9efe60db0d62038c1377&oe=553B1AC8
VIDEO*tach is at 10k+ RPM while idling and jumping around
http://youtu.be/92Xwml4MR9k
As you can see the car is in the ON position but not cranked and my cluster is jumping all over the place from 0-11k RPM and does the same upon start up. You can see in the video above as well with my old unit.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10422036_10155058303540038_9088969665912271956_n.j pg?oh=08f1b45a70f5205e7f2061bbbc9ad995&oe=54FC9535&__gda__=1430030115_c220709afbf9b5136e366ccd53ef300 5
Tools used:
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10896958_10155058261915038_5286794196230387602_n.j pg?oh=837def96680cf55b391ad709654f6262&oe=5539C568
Once you have the Tach out, remove the two screws holding the board to the tach and desolder the 4 connections in between.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10422399_10155058263260038_3034885968237600950_n.j pg?oh=48840c38777638384fe3029720385c89&oe=5543A8CA&__gda__=1425877980_258192b7e0d97d625f1842ade5eb8b3 4
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10891835_10155058263085038_4609826248281126714_n.j pg?oh=9007e96a94f6bb807bd2de89a2ea021c&oe=55364F8A
Next you will see the 22pin chip that is on the board, this is what you want to remove.
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10671289_10155058262940038_4064700647164542319_n.j pg?oh=d6c9cee0fe052d7f8915b05c04494c79&oe=5537DCA3
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/63757_10155058262735038_568141654784178976_n.jpg?o h=2b3ecd2c95f0f2bc50106d4a542538b1&oe=552D319F&__gda__=1430188130_d139e89b2c4a63de72aba207cda0268 d
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10881562_10155058262655038_2632786947672199956_n.j pg?oh=85f182becb91f35b6e8d6ca305a6c03b&oe=5538C6E6&__gda__=1428506291_d4d2bd88765f373e5763938d4ed4454 b
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10906072_10155058262605038_5956865800514342821_n.j pg?oh=8ff4876baa07a286d923392382edfee2&oe=55291DA2&__gda__=1429978871_eca83f1c9a5a09fe4592a066614b8ba d
So you should have something like this, be sure to be very careful on the next step
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10419580_10155058262460038_5309040445433925668_n.j pg?oh=aab45d2b358b97ae8080892f86f98f7f&oe=5547D634
Since Nissan didnt put very much room for the socket to make a great connection to the board we will be allowing it to make a better connection, thus making your tach work.
What you want to do is scrape off bits of the solder resist*the lighter parts on the board* but be sure to stay with in that specific pins circuit. For this i simply used a razor blade to scrape bits off as such.
Start:
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10885355_10155058262325038_4361330205577389311_n.j pg?oh=622a47a10c5eb0e219136ad910f0378e&oe=552894F9
Finish:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10906233_10155058262205038_8377065274287079242_n.j pg?oh=2895ff4fb000a867a110903c287da1a2&oe=553669FA&__gda__=1429647340_36298635446fe53fd2356d7272aee7b 9
Once this is done you can re-install your 22pin chip, soldering it back on.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10898206_10155058262045038_75437927700608370_n.jpg ?oh=1f23451646a65e95f32c23c2f8e5fbc5&oe=5536118D&__gda__=1429600593_f12f1b8436ca5108f8d9f0a4569fd97 3
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10906448_10155058262125038_1953815646841526721_n.j pg?oh=0194110ef69ae0404305f627e8ad8e55&oe=553D3EFB&__gda__=1429762478_c2bbbc28434f2849e2753b046dccbe1 0
Replace the board on the tach itself, put the two screws back in and resolder those 4 connections and you are finished. The first time doing this i took my time so it was a few hours of work; however the second time it only took me 30mins or so to complete. Both the Nismo cluster and stock clusters share the same board so it does work for both units.
https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10897886_10155058261990038_4193380863907156219_n.j pg?oh=62173cfdaeec9efe60db0d62038c1377&oe=553B1AC8