View Full Version : Multi-Question Thread
RubyS14
11-29-2014, 07:46 PM
Hey all, before starting a flame war or something of the sort, I'd like to say that I have searched for answers on my questions and there were some interesting ones, but didn't really help me in terms of understanding and fixing the issues.
Background of vehicle
-Base 1996 S14 with 120,000 miles on KA24DE 5 speed fun. :2f2f:
-Clutch is toast very soon as is the transmission mount. Will replace all mounts and clutch at the same time when funds are available.
-Subframe bushings were replaced with a new Whiteline set. Differential bushings are new Energy Suspension. All other bushings are stock (20 years old) as far as I know.
-New stock sized tires/wheels were put on 6 months ago and re-balanced since then. Wheels are in pristine condition minus road grime.
1. I have swapped to a J30 VLSD and a 1 piece Driveshaft Shop steel driveshaft to accommodate the new diff length. Fitment is beautiful. Shifting is precise and the little nylon bushing was just replaced 1.5 months ago. It seems like every time I get to about 40 mph, a vibration noise occurs; almost like a buzzing noise but only with very slight throttle pressure for speed control. This occurred with both driveshaft/differential combos stock/newer stuff. It happens in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Any ideas on why that vibration happens?
2. I am losing oil. I know I have a leak. Valve cover was resealed and cannot see any drips there. Oil pan has last gasket/RTV (not sure which) if pan has ever been dropped. The pan has a thin layer of oil coating it, but no visible areas specifically where it may be from. Obviously oil drips down so it possible my front crank seal is bad? If the rear main seal is bad, I'd see oil at the joint of the bell-housing to engine block correct? Its not a horrible amount of loss but just annoying. Also seem to be burning oil as its dark after I replaced oil very recently. Valve seals? I think I read they kinda suck on KA's.
3. Water leaks. I have water leaks from the side mirror rubber trim. Does anyone know what that piece is actually called or know the part numbers for both sides? I will be getting new weatherstripping for the windows when I replace those pieces as well. If anyone wants a picture of that piece for a "better" reference, I'll include it.
Thank you to everyone that helps point me in the right direction to the ultimate answers!
RubyS14
12-03-2014, 05:40 PM
Hopeful bump?
bmaddock
12-03-2014, 10:04 PM
You must be new to cars. Let me help you out a bit as I know I struggled for a while myself. As much as you think you have a unique issue...when a car has been around for 20+ years, a lot of the known issues and problems have happened already and threads are out there telling you how to fix them. Just keep that in mind next time you're bummed the answer doesn't pop up in the first two Google search results.
1. Hmm well if the noise has happened with all configurations of your parts, I would then start looking at what hasn't been changed out. I know some of the short throw shifters can buzz, might be worth looking into. I don't have much experience with weird drivetrain noises that likely involve the transmission.
2. Oil leaks are easy man. Go to rockauto.com and order your front main seal, rear main seal, new valve cover gasket and reseal your oil pan while you're at it. Sounds overkill but when the car's down for the clutch job, might as well nip some other maintenance jobs as it is indeed a ~20 year old car and those should be or already have failed. You can then narrow the leak down better after you eliminate the basic leak prone areas. Also look at the stock oil pressure switch on the block located near the oil filter, as this is prone to leaks as well.
Oh and dark oil is nothing to be concerned of, that just means your oil is likely doing its job. Now if the oil is pitch black or near it you may have an issue.
3. Courtesyparts.com is a good source of OEM Nissan part number references and a place to purchase them. http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-parts-s14-1995-1998/genuine-nissan-parts/bodyside-rear/766-body-side-moulding/-c-3690_3691_3826_3828.html
Honestly you should really read into how to maintain a car. Not trying to insult you but it really sounds like you need to understand the basics of car maintenance and how to answer these questions yourself. Good luck dude and I hope this is of some help. In the future, don't forget we have a Small Questions Thread if you need more help.
Chaluska
12-03-2014, 11:07 PM
1. I have swapped to a J30 VLSD and a 1 piece Driveshaft Shop steel driveshaft to accommodate the new diff length. Fitment is beautiful. Shifting is precise and the little nylon bushing was just replaced 1.5 months ago. It seems like every time I get to about 40 mph, a vibration noise occurs; almost like a buzzing noise but only with very slight throttle pressure for speed control. This occurred with both driveshaft/differential combos stock/newer stuff. It happens in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Any ideas on why that vibration happens? - one piece driveshaft makes this happen...
2. I am losing oil. I know I have a leak. Valve cover was resealed and cannot see any drips there. Oil pan has last gasket/RTV (not sure which) if pan has ever been dropped. The pan has a thin layer of oil coating it, but no visible areas specifically where it may be from. Obviously oil drips down so it possible my front crank seal is bad? If the rear main seal is bad, I'd see oil at the joint of the bell-housing to engine block correct? Its not a horrible amount of loss but just annoying. Also seem to be burning oil as its dark after I replaced oil very recently. Valve seals? I think I read they kinda suck on KA's. Get under the car, clean everything with degreaser, start the car and watch for the oil leak.
3. Water leaks. I have water leaks from the side mirror rubber trim. Does anyone know what that piece is actually called or know the part numbers for both sides? I will be getting new weatherstripping for the windows when I replace those pieces as well. If anyone wants a picture of that piece for a "better" reference, I'll include it. - That is the rubber weatherstripping. its sort of one big ass piece.
Hey all, before starting a flame war or something of the sort, I'd like to say that I have searched for answers on my questions and there were some interesting ones, but didn't really help me in terms of understanding and fixing the issues.
Background of vehicle
-Base 1996 S14 with 120,000 miles on KA24DE 5 speed fun. :2f2f:
-Clutch is toast very soon as is the transmission mount. Will replace all mounts and clutch at the same time when funds are available.
-Subframe bushings were replaced with a new Whiteline set. Differential bushings are new Energy Suspension. All other bushings are stock (20 years old) as far as I know.
-New stock sized tires/wheels were put on 6 months ago and re-balanced since then. Wheels are in pristine condition minus road grime.
1. I have swapped to a J30 VLSD and a 1 piece Driveshaft Shop steel driveshaft to accommodate the new diff length. Fitment is beautiful. Shifting is precise and the little nylon bushing was just replaced 1.5 months ago. It seems like every time I get to about 40 mph, a vibration noise occurs; almost like a buzzing noise but only with very slight throttle pressure for speed control. This occurred with both driveshaft/differential combos stock/newer stuff. It happens in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Any ideas on why that vibration happens?
2. I am losing oil. I know I have a leak. Valve cover was resealed and cannot see any drips there. Oil pan has last gasket/RTV (not sure which) if pan has ever been dropped. The pan has a thin layer of oil coating it, but no visible areas specifically where it may be from. Obviously oil drips down so it possible my front crank seal is bad? If the rear main seal is bad, I'd see oil at the joint of the bell-housing to engine block correct? Its not a horrible amount of loss but just annoying. Also seem to be burning oil as its dark after I replaced oil very recently. Valve seals? I think I read they kinda suck on KA's.
3. Water leaks. I have water leaks from the side mirror rubber trim. Does anyone know what that piece is actually called or know the part numbers for both sides? I will be getting new weatherstripping for the windows when I replace those pieces as well. If anyone wants a picture of that piece for a "better" reference, I'll include it.
You can fit a non ABS driveshaft with a J30 diff. its tight as hell, but it should fit.
Thank you to everyone that helps point me in the right direction to the ultimate answers!
i have a vibration too, in specific speed (80kmh on 5th)... i have replaced the center bearing on the shaft, balanced the shaft, checked half shafts, balanced rear wheels, checked the differential, everything is ok. i am gonna check clutch n plate assembly, maybe send it to be balanced separately.
RubyS14
12-04-2014, 07:35 AM
I'm not going to quote anyone as that would take up so much room. Thank you everyone for your incite on these annoyances.
bmaddock, you are correct, this is my first car and I am over willing to learn all about it. It definitely does not have a short shifter as the car is a virgin (thank goodness). As far as the oil pan goes, I'd like to reseal it but I have seen mixed reviews whether or not the front crossmember needs to be dropped in order to access it. I love Courtesy Nissan.
Chaluska, I had that vibrating noise while I still had the OEM 2 piece in along with the open diff. Tranny mount? I disassembled that piece last night and was not pleased at all. I had a derp moment and could not figure out the part number, but I got it. Rather expensive for the entire assembly from Courtesy Nissan as I'd rather have new as far as weatherstripping goes.
Once again, thanks to all offer help into this!
bmaddock
12-04-2014, 07:56 AM
Yeah the oil pan can be tricky. I did mine without lowering the cross member when I needed to weld a bung for KA-T but it really made it a pain. I was in a rush at the time but you really should drop the cross member just to make it easier and you're 100% sure you didn't fudge up the RTV when snaking it back on.
Chaluska has a good idea though. Wrap some grocery bags around alternator, battery, fues boxes, and injectors/electrical components and spray your entire engine bay with Engine degreaser or Simple Green. Follow the instructions and don't be afraid to whip out a toothbrush to get in those tight spots. Then pull out the pressure washer (be careful!) or hose and clean it off. Take your bags off everything and start the engine up to steam clean some more. This will make working in the engine bay much nicer and might give you a better chance of hunting down the leak.
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