S13 With SR20 Track Day Durability?

[tayloray]

I've been into drifting since I was 16. As of lately, I've really wanted to get more into road racing as I have no desire to competitivly drift, and it's just gotten mundane for me.

My question is, does anyone here do track days with an sr20? I've only every drifted the car so the strain only lasts a minute or two. I'm wondering how it would hold up to consistent laps around say Sebring or AMP. I know that if I'm drifting and doing hot laps, even with a really good radiator and fan setup, it will get warm. So i'm not sure how it would cope with abuse on a track being WOT for 20-30 second at a time.

Also, any input as far as car setup pertain specifically to the S-13 chassis would be appreciated. I spec out spring rates and such for customers on a daily basis so that's easy, but as far as sway bars alignment etc for road racing this car i'm kind of in the dark. I met Tim Bell at Z nationals and we exchanged info as he is trying to get into drifting for fun, and i'm trying to get into road racing. So i'm sure his info will be beneficial but I would like to hear from other s-chassis owners as to pros and cons of using this car for road racing. i also have an NA Miata, but it would require far more modification to be at the level my s chassis is already.

[e1_griego]

www.nissanroadracing.com.

I did 4 track days this year with my car, and had some complications it was all turbo manifold related (t2 gasket, etc).

With a clutch fan and griffin radiator my PFC never shows about 87*C. No problems at all.

Heat management is obviously the name of the game for 20min sessions, but that goes for brakes, tires, cooling system, etc.

[tayloray]

www.nissanroadracing.com.

I did 4 track days this year with my car, and had some complications it was all turbo manifold related (t2 gasket, etc).

With a clutch fan and griffin radiator my PFC never shows about 87*C. No problems at all.

Heat management is obviously the name of the game for 20min sessions, but that goes for brakes, tires, cooling system, etc.

My dilemma is I may want to sell the S13 and build a NA 350z just light bolt ons and good footwork purely for reliability.

The problem is the s chassis is capable of 350whp, has an AEM, Twin disk, and many supporting mods already. So doing that i'm kind of taking a step backwards.

[Yeap]

Heat management is obviously the name of the game for 20min sessions, but that goes for brakes, tires, cooling system, etc.

^^^ This! I bought my 240 back 2004 to get into drifting, but over the years I became more interested in time attacks and track days. Heat management is key here. I was running a 300hp tuned SR which was a lot of trial and error. The turbo manifold will melt shit. Make or invest in a decent heat shield for the brake booster & reservoir. Wrap the powersteeing lines if you have powersteering.

Another important thing that I think gets overlooked is the panels under the radiator, the splash guard and other plastic canvas's. A lot of people remove that crap underneath to fit in intercoolers but it plays an important role in air flow at high speed. You dont want the air coming in from the front and dumping straight down onto the track. You need to focus the air flow through the inercooler and radiator.

Like I said a lot of trial and error. Your first runs out dont push it 100%. Get a feel for how the motor and heat will react to 1 or 2 laps, pull in to pit and check everything, otherwise the motor will blow from being heat soaked.

[ripnbst]

With all the aftermarket support for this chassis your options for cooling panels and under trays are there. They just aren't made by power by Max and Silkroad. The SR is capable of handling track day heat. Some of the tings you'd want for drifting will apply to track days too. Drifting you are sideways and going slower while slamming the Rev limiter. On track you are pretty much pointed at the cooler air you are seeking and going faster while constantly varying RPM. It should be easier to keep cool on track than drifting. This is speaking about motor only. A big problem you will probably run into is brake cooling to maintain performance.

[tayloray]

I really appreciate the responses. I thought the same thing in terms of drifting vs. tracks days due to drifting being much harder, but for a much shorter time span.

As far as brakes go, I need to upgrade. The stock S13 stuff works fine for drifting but wouldn't stop a go kart fast enough on an actual road course.

I'm just trying to feel out my options here. The miata makes more sense as it will be better/cheaper on tires, gas and brakes. But at the same time it needs a lot more work to be where my 240 could be with less than $1500.

I've never tracked mine and with a welded diff I can't get a feel for handling charactoritiscs but i'm sure oversteer even with an LSD will be atrocious. I believe the car is something like 53/47 Weight balance?

[e1_griego]

S-chassis usually pushes at the limit. Welded diff will cause understeer at turn-in for sure.


Z32 brakes are a minimum, wilwoods are a nice upgrade because of cheaper consumables.

Miata is definitely a cheaper buy-in, though.

[S14DB]

Another important thing that I think gets overlooked is the panels under the radiator, the splash guard and other plastic canvas's. A lot of people remove that crap underneath to fit in intercoolers but it plays an important role in air flow at high speed. You dont want the air coming in from the front and dumping straight down onto the track. You need to focus the air flow through the inercooler and radiator.
This, my cars fan turns off at speed because the air is ducted through the FMIC and Rad with the undertray going all the way to the front bumper.

Also, If you want to autox get a S15 HLSD.

[tayloray]

S-chassis usually pushes at the limit. Welded diff will cause understeer at turn-in for sure.


Z32 brakes are a minimum, wilwoods are a nice upgrade because of cheaper consumables.

Miata is definitely a cheaper buy-in, though.

I mean i generally like my cars to have some oversteer as it's more natural for me to counteract than understeer is.

This has been an ongoing tough decision.

[tayloray]

This, my cars fan turns off at speed because the air is ducted through the FMIC and Rad with the undertray going all the way to the front bumper.

Also, If you want to autox get a S15 HLSD.

Looking to do track days not autox. I'll probably do something like that until I want to for out the money for something like a O.S Giken

[Prok0]

Yea it really comes down to proper cooling and braking components.

A good radiator, thermostat, fan/shroud, swirl pot, possibly adding an under tray would go a long way.

Also I would recommend keeping the boost levels relatively tame, you dont need a ton of power if your doing a road course day and the added heat and pressure over a long period of time could cause some reliability issues.

I tracked my built SR at Sebring awhile back and it was on 18psi on an S14 T28, it had plenty of power but towards the end of the day it started pushing some oil out of the crank case. Overheating wasnt an issue because I've got a Koyo, SPAL 16'' fan, C&R swirl pot, and a lower temp thermostat, but the engine didnt seem to like prolonged and repeated 3rd gear pulls at that boost, then again it was a bit tired as it was built years ago and had quite a few hard miles on it.

I've stepped up the turbo size a bit now and will most likely run a bit less boost to try to keep things a bit more reliable and also stepped up my brakes to CTS-V 4 pot's, and will probably build some ducting for them shortly.

[Kingtal0n]

surprised no one mentioned oil cooler

or did they. didnt read but thought it important enough to pop in

[e1_griego]

I don't run one and I've never seen more than 210* oil temp. Just the greddy pan.

Monitor first, then add one as needed.

[10psitx]

I currently have a s13 coupe set up for track racing only, initially i had heat issues with the turbo manifold. Heat wrap was used on everything in the general vcinity as well as i got a siebon vented hood, installed a stainless steel louvered duct directly over the mani. That helped immensely..looked riced out but made a big difference.

I run Z32 calipers front and rear with drilled and slotted rotors, project MU level max 900i pads and motul blue brake fluid, This combination works brilliantly for the track (i run a 3/4 mile track with 12 corners) and its a high speed.

I have two sets of staggered 17" 5-Zigens Fn's, 1 set with dunlop derizza starspec's and another set with Hoosier r6 dot legal tyres. With proper set and cure time the Hoosier's have given the fastest lap times, so i stuck with them, Toyo 888 are good as well but drop of pretty quick compared to hoosiers...think 50 cycles at 7 to 10 min laps vs 30 cycles.

Suspension- BC racing coil overs with 8/6 kg springs, white line stabilizer bars front and rear, nismo powerbrace with nismo front and rear strut tower bar braces and all adjustable arms. Rear subframe solid mounts,1 pc steel driveshaft and JDM 180sx vlsd diff. The tires love about 3 degrees of camber, and 20 to 25 cold psi (well i do anyway)

Safety- 6 point bolt in cage, bride seats, schroth cam lock harness, fire extinguisher, main power cut off switch, optima dry cell batery mounted to off set driver weight, no carpet(fire harzard). Cool suit (it gets quite hot inside the car) with fire proof coveralls.

Engine - stock sr20det-t25 with nismo clutch and nismo engine and tranny mounts, B & m shifter, front mount intercooler, with catch can and this is a must YOU NEED the winsheild washer system....its comes in very handy. I run 10psi on a stock engine with stock ecu on an optimization tune (that means it will run with larger exhaust, cold air intake, larger i/c, open to atmosphere BOV etc) It dyno'ed 230hp/224tq and is very responsive and always in with the front runners on track.

Engine cooling- stock fan and shroud, trimmed front bumper and ducting to force the air into the filter and i/c rad area. brake ducting coming soon but its not a must have. hope this helps.

The car is undergoing some maintenance/upgrades at the moment, smaller i/c, oil cooler and filter relocation, all new guages, different front end, all new coolant hoses, power steering cooler, new tie rods and such.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141038_378.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141018_581.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141054_536.jpg


Changing to this front now

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_191855_972.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232314_016.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232243_530.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232425_227.jpg

[tayloray]

I currentely have a s13 coupe set up for track racing only, initially i had heat issues with the turbo manifold so it alot of heat wrap was used on everything in the general vcinity as well as i got a siebon vented hood and install a stainless steel louvered duct directly over the mani. That helped immensely..looked riced out but made a big difference.

I run Z32 calipers front and rear with drilled and slotted rotors with project MU level max 900i pads with motul blue brake fluid. work brilliantly for the track (i run a 3/4 mile track with 12 corners) and its a high speed.

I hav two setsof staggered 17" 5Zigens Fn's i set with dunlop derizza starspec's and another set with Hoosier r6 dot legal tyres. with proper set and cure time the Hoosier's have given be the fastest lap times so i stuck with them Toyo 888 are good as well but drop of pretty quick compared to hoosiers...think 50 cycles at 7 to 10 min laps vs 30 cycles.

suspension- BC racing coil overs with 8/6 kg springs, white line stabilizer bars front and rear, nismo powerbrace with nismo front and rear strut tower bar braces all adjustable arms. Rear subframe solid mounts,1 pc steel driveshaft. The tires love about 3 degrees of camber, and 20 to 25 cold psi.

Safety- 6 point bolt in cage, bride seats, schroth cam lock harness, fire extinguisher, main power cut off switch, optima dry cell batery mounted to off set driver weight, no carpet(fire harzard). Cool suit (it gets quite hot inside the car) with fire proof coveralls.

Engine - stock sr20det-t25 with nismo clutch and nismo engine and tranny mounts, B & m shifter, front mount intercooler, with catch can and this is a must YOU NEED the winsheild washer system....its come in very handy. I run 10psi all stock on stock ecu with optimization tune (that means it will run with larger exhaust, cold air intake, larger i/c, BOV etc) It dyno'ed 230hp/224tq and is very responsive and always in with the front runners on track.

Engine cooling- stock fan and shroud, trimmed front bumper and ducting to force the air into the filter and i/c rad area. brake ducting coming soon but its not a must have. hope this helps.

the car is undergoing some maintenance/upgrades at the moment.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141038_378.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141018_581.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_141054_536.jpg


Changing to this front now

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_191855_972.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232314_016.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232243_530.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad311/TURBOFREEK1/IMG_20141011_232425_227.jpg

Nice to hear you're running our suspension. How do you like it thus far?

From the responses it seems I have a good chunk of work to do to make it reliable for track days. Not as bad as i anticipated though. I'll need to do a lot of heat wrapping as that's one off my biggest concerns(turbo heat).

I'll probably keep it around 15psi. It's a built SR I have an AEM ecu, but i'll need to finally get it professionally tuned to ensure reliability.

New brakes. I also need to do all my suspension bushings as they're pretty shot. Waiting for a new line of ours to come out to do the suspension.

Then maybe just maybe it will work alright.

Thinking of running something like 285 squared slicks I havent calculated what spring rate I'm going to use yet. Need o get my car on some scales first and try a few different options.

[e1_griego]

If you're just running track days there's not much point to r-comps.

A 255 street tire (which fits with stock metal) is a lot cheaper. Seems like you're worried about buy-in so might as well keep it simple.

[tayloray]

If you're just running track days there's not much point to r-comps.

A 255 street tire (which fits with stock metal) is a lot cheaper. Seems like you're worried about buy-in so might as well keep it simple.

I tend to go a little bit overboard at times.

My boss has an s14 with a turbo vq he will be using for track days so I'm trying to keep an edge of some sort. He's running something like 285/295 rs3's. As well as making more power, but like you said budget is a main point of consideration here.

I do have rear over fenders so I can clear a 275 285 easily in the rear.

[10psitx]

If you're just running track days there's not much point to r-comps.

A 255 street tire (which fits with stock metal) is a lot cheaper. Seems like you're worried about buy-in so might as well keep it simple.

Yes and no .... cost wise yea stick with a good street tire, but trust me when you get to the track and you'er losing tha 10th of a second you will want to have the r's thats' why i have 2 sets of wheels but it will come down to costs.

[e1_griego]

If it's not competitive why spend $1600/set of tires?

I buy r-comps for autocross where tenths matter ;)

[10psitx]

Nice to hear you're running our suspension. How do you like it thus far?

From the responses it seems I have a good chunk of work to do to make it reliable for track days. Not as bad as i anticipated though. I'll need to do a lot of heat wrapping as that's one off my biggest concerns(turbo heat).

I'll probably keep it around 15psi. It's a built SR I have an AEM ecu, but i'll need to finally get it professionally tuned to ensure reliability.

New brakes. I also need to do all my suspension bushings as they're pretty shot. Waiting for a new line of ours to come out to do the suspension.

Then maybe just maybe it will work alright.

Thinking of running something like 285 squared slicks I havent calculated what spring rate I'm going to use yet. Need o get my car on some scales first and try a few different options.

I like the spring rates and dampening of the set-up for the track but the two tone in the pic has a similar set up and the springs are crap...i just ordered 4/3kgs for the cifero to swap them out...i run top speed with car...above 140mph and its like a basket ball..

I have run 265 under a stock body so far,the white coupe runs 245 rear and 225 front, the two tone runs 255 rear and 235 fronts.

[tayloray]

If it's not competitive why spend $1600/set of tires?

I buy r-comps for autocross where tenths matter ;)

Well I was looking at getting take offs as I know a few people who road race and this may be feasible. Everyone generally runs 18's though so that causes issues as I think 18's are to be for an S13.

I like the spring rates and dampening of the set-up for the track but the two tone in the pic has a similar set up and the springs are crap...i just ordered 4/3kgs for the cifero to swap them out...i run top speed with car...above 140mph and its like a basket ball..

I have run 265 under a stock body so far,the white coupe runs 245 rear and 225 front, the two tone runs 255 rear and 235 fronts.

I wouldn't really suggest going much softer as you will need to raise the vehicle if you don't want it to be hitting the bump stops all the time.

[10psitx]

I wouldn't really suggest going much softer as you will need to raise the vehicle if you don't want it to be hitting the bump stops all the time.


The springs are avaliable in "short" and "normal" height, i ordered Normal. The car will be corner balanced and pre-loaded for best ride height and preformance.The dampening adjustments will play a big part as well.

Don't forget this is not an unheard of combination its available off the shelf from BC and their distributors. So i trust BC knows what the different combination will do in real world conditions. Ill keep you posted on the outcome.

[Wookie384]

The springs are avaliable in "short" and "normal" height, i ordered Normal. The car will be corner balanced and pre-loaded for best ride height and preformance.The dampening adjustments will play a big part as well.

Don't forget this is not an unheard of combination its available off the shelf from BC and their distributors. So i trust BC knows what the different combination will do in real world conditions. Ill keep you posted on the outcome.

You do realise he works for BC right? lol

[tayloray]

The springs are avaliable in "short" and "normal" height, i ordered Normal. The car will be corner balanced and pre-loaded for best ride height and preformance.The dampening adjustments will play a big part as well.

Don't forget this is not an unheard of combination its available off the shelf from BC and their distributors. So i trust BC knows what the different combination will do in real world conditions. Ill keep you posted on the outcome.

I'm assuming you're referencing standard and extreme low? That kit standard uses a 180mm front and a 220mm rear spring. With that soft of rates, you may run into some issues. That's half the default rate. I wouldn't suggest going down more than 2kg's from default as defaults are built around OE rates just with a little added stiffness to prevent bottoming out. Going softer is not something I would generally advise.

If you want to control the car over high speed bumps it would be more in tuning the dampening properly than the spring rates.

[10psitx]

You do realise he works for BC right? lol

And your point being he has actually done this before with my car and observed the results in the conditions where the car would be used?

[e1_griego]

Why not buy real shocks? :-X

Koni/bilstein 4 lyfe ;)

[tayloray]

Why not buy real shocks? :-X

Koni/bilstein 4 lyfe ;)

That hurts.

[10psitx]

I'm assuming you're referencing standard and extreme low? That kit standard uses a 180mm front and a 220mm rear spring. With that soft of rates, you may run into some issues. That's half the default rate. I wouldn't suggest going down more than 2kg's from default as defaults are built around OE rates just with a little added stiffness to prevent bottoming out. Going softer is not something I would generally advise.

If you want to control the car over high speed bumps it would be more in tuning the dampening properly than the spring rates.

I quite get what you're saying and it makes sense to a degree, Right now its corner balanced, at its softest dampening setting and practically no pre load and it feels way to bumpy are you suggesting to add preload and stiffen the dampening?

But just to give an over view, i've used the set up before on a different s-chassis and got the desired results hence the reason to go with it again (read-not my first rodeo). I'm sure you would agree that real world condition differ and that the exact setup does not behave the same as well, i believe your advice is based on the assumption that i'm set on having a "slammed car" ?.... let me assure that is not the case. I have garnered approx 12 + years track and street racing so i do have a little bit of understanding on how stuff works....I try different things, sometimes i fail... sometimes i succeed. Point is to use you knowledge as guidance...

[10psitx]

Why not buy real shocks? :-X

Koni/bilstein 4 lyfe ;)

I have used them before and i have a set of Koni inserts in modified strut casing....but i have used BC'S before as well and they worked so i'll try them again...but good advice anyway!

[tayloray]

I quite get what you'er saying and it makes sense to a degree, Right now its coner balanceed, at its softest dampening setting and practically no pre load and it feels way to bumpy are you suggesting to add preload and stiffen the dampening?

But just to give an over view, i've used the set up before on a different s-chassis and got the desired results hence the reason to go with it again (read-not my first rodeo). I'm sure you would agree that real world condition differ and that the exact setup does not behave the same as well, i believe your advice is based on the assumption that i'm set on having a "slammed car" ?.... let me assure that is not the case. I have garnered approx 12 + years track and street racing so i do have a little bit of understanding on how stuff works....I try different things, sometimes i fail... sometimes i succeed. Point is to use you knowledge as guidance...

Well it wouldn't make much of a different what the ride height was as far as suspension travel due to the adjustments being independant of each other.

Generally you would want to tighten up the rebound some to stabilize the car at high speeds. With a single adjustable you'll be tightening up the compression as well which wont hurt but isn't exactly what you want. What kind of roads are you driving on?

[10psitx]

Well it wouldn't make much of a different what the ride height was as far as suspension travel due to the adjustments being independant of each other.

Generally you would want to tighten up the rebound some to stabilize the car at high speeds. With a single adjustable you'll be tightening up the compression as well which wont hurt but isn't exactly what you want. What kind of roads are you driving on?

The roads are really not bad but we have a toll road(130) that has an 85 mph speed limit...its got some areas where there are some small waves, when i hit them i literally bounce up and hit my head on the roof of the car, i also ran the previous car i mentioned at the Texas mile with the BC's and there is a nasty dip at the end of the track. That car did not behave this bad, i also drove on the toll 130 with the car with good results...granted the road was new but the current car with the BC's don't instill confidence to go fast. This car is purpose built for grip so all the other components follow that basis. Funny thing is My track car has BC coils on it and i dare not drive over 75mph on the roads...its torture for my old bones....but i trust it implictly on the track.

[e1_griego]

I'll reiterate, buy good shocks.

Koni 8611 setup rides so nice! Or 3000gt bilsteins.

come hang out at nissanroadracing.com.

[tayloray]

I'll reiterate, buy good shocks.

Koni 8611 setup rides so nice! Or 3000gt bilsteins.

come hang out at nissanroadracing.com.

I really need to make an account over there.

We do have some new stuff coming out that's going to be really good. I can discuss more after SEMA.

The roads are really not bad but we have a toll road(130) that has an 85 mph speed limit...its got some areas where there are some small waves, when i hit them i literally bounce up and hit my head on the roof of the car, i also ran the previous car i mentioned at the Texas mile with the BC's and there is a nasty dip at the end of the track. That car did not behave this bad, i also drove on the toll 130 with the car with good results...granted the road was new but the current car with the BC's don't instill confidence to go fast. This car is purpose built for grip so all the other components follow that basis. Funny thing is My track car has BC coils on it and i dare not drive over 75mph on the roads...its torture for my old bones....but i trust it implictly on the track.

That's strange, I have a set of BR's on my car now, and they seem quite tame. You could go down to a 6/4 and run an longer spring which will net you a little more travel although I believe the shock will hit the bump stop before the current spring even comes close to coil binding.

[10psitx]

I'll reiterate, buy good shocks.

Koni 8611 setup rides so nice! Or 3000gt bilsteins.

come hang out at nissanroadracing.com.

I agree...and as i said i have a set of inserts...but i'd like to try the BC'S again. I'll definitely check out that site!.

What springs do you use with the Koni inserts?

[10psitx]

I really need to make an account over there.

We do have some new stuff coming out that's going to be really good. I can discuss more after SEMA.

don't do that!! put the bait out and then take it back...

[e1_griego]

Good luck trying to convince BC will trump bilstein/koni :D

Custom housings for the koni inserts. I run 550/400# springs, but you can run up to 650 or so without any trouble.


http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=270829

[10psitx]

Good luck trying to convince BC will trump bilstein/koni :D

Custom housings for the koni inserts. I run 550/400# springs, but you can run up to 650 or so without any trouble.


http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=270829

very nice set up! i did mine using the stock barrels and tein s-techs...they handle well when used in conjunction with upgraded stabilizer bars.


On another note i feel we have gone off topic, Taloray...maybe we can continue this spring discussion elsewhere? i apoligize if this was a thread jack. I can elaborate on some aspects of durability i have used with my car if you have any specific questions.

[e1_griego]

the koni race shocks don't fit in the stock housings, but the koni yellow sport shocks do.

[tayloray]

very nice set up! i did mine using the stock barrels and tein s-techs...they handle well when used in conjunction with upgraded stabilizer bars.


On another note i feel we have gone off topic, Taloray...maybe we can continue this spring discussion elsewhere? i apoligize if this was a thread jack. I can elaborate on some aspects of durability i have used with my car if you have any specific questions.

All threads end up off topic anyway. I would be happy to hear any input you may have. Were always trying to improve the brand.

[10psitx]

the koni race shocks don't fit in the stock housings, but the koni yellow sport shocks do.

I have the yellows for sure i had to drill a hole and weld a nut on the bottom of the housing to bolt the insert to the housing...worked well i should add.

[10psitx]

All threads end up off topic anyway. I would be happy to hear any input you may have. Were always trying to improve the brand.

I will post the results for sure, i should get the springs next wed if all goes well. I am sure they will work as evidenced by the previous set up but every car is different and the roads have more waves as well...so we shall soon find out!

[My$800S14]

Drive the miata. Just drive it. Buy some suspension...and drive it. Bc's might be good enough, but probably not. U less you get them to custom valve them...good tires, 15x8 with 225's and it will be enough, the miata is a better car to start with.

[My$800S14]

It will be cheaper, more reliable, easier to manage, and a better platform for beginners...im not even a beginner, but im about to start tracking the miata. After I raise the car, install the supercharger, and have it tuned.

[MADE]

I

My question is, does anyone here do track days with an sr20?

I'm wondering how it would hold up to consistent laps around say Sebring or AMP. d at a time.



I use to track an S14 and I started out with a stock car with a set of RS-3 tires,HP+ Plus with R33 Calipers and a Bucket. I would run at least 12 laps flat out without issue. Never came close to over heating. Eventually I stepped it up for a but a stock car can be tracked in reality. You have to start somewhere, and I have a friend who is tracking his S13 in Japan now. https://www.facebook.com/MilsopRacing You can follow him, as he is going all out to get some idea's. He and I were given guidance by Japanese tuners and drivers that have been in the game for a long time. Everyone doesn't have deep pocket, although they help, "seat time" is the best way to effectively get good times. My best time around Okayama International Circuit was in stock form.
Like most have stated cooling is important, get a seat, good set of tires, and make the proper camber, alignment adjustments and grow would be my recommendation.

[tayloray]

I use to track an S14 and I started out with a stock car with a set of RS-3 tires,HP+ Plus with R33 Calipers and a Bucket. I would run at least 12 laps flat out without issue. Never came close to over heating. Eventually I stepped it up for a but a stock car can be tracked in reality. You have to start somewhere, and I have a friend who is tracking his S13 in Japan now. https://www.facebook.com/MilsopRacing You can follow him, as he is going all out to get some idea's. He and I were given guidance by Japanese tuners and drivers that have been in the game for a long time. Everyone doesn't have deep pocket, although they help, "seat time" is the best way to effectively get good times. My best time around Okayama International Circuit was in stock form.
Like most have stated cooling is important, get a seat, good set of tires, and make the proper camber, alignment adjustments and grow would be my recommendation.

I'll more than likely convert my Miata into the track day car. Cheap, reliable, very well handling etc.

Also, as you said, in relation to drifting I remember it being a blast to go out and drive the track with a stock KA because you really had to keep the car on the edge, now with more power, it's still fun, but it ends up costing an enormous amount more for virtually the same amount of fun. Which is why I do any of this.

[Def]

If you're just running track days there's not much point to r-comps.

A 255 street tire (which fits with stock metal) is a lot cheaper. Seems like you're worried about buy-in so might as well keep it simple.

I disagree. A set of "long life" R-comps like Nitto NT01s will be faster than "hot street tires," and last just about as long for roughly the same price. If someone isn't pushing as hard on the tires, the street tires will last longer, so you definitely need to know how to drive before making the jump.

You're right though when it comes to stuff like a Hoosier R6 or something like that, but a moderate R-comp tends to have a better tread depth than some street tires which can be 10/32" and don't really take kindly to being loaded heavily on an abrasive track at full tread depth.

Additionally, hot street tires are sticky enough now that they heat cycle out before the tread is gone, which isn't a problem from a speed perspective if you don't mind street tires in the first place, but it can make the car handle really oddly at times. The heat cycling can throw you into understeer or oversteer as the tires go off/come back, honestly, I don't understand how it can change the balance of the car that much, but it does. Something like a Hoosier makes this even more apparent when they're heat cycled out.

Plus why even mod your car if you don't care how fast it is? I kinda go out there to have fun for as reasonable an amount of $$$ as I can manage. Going 1+ sec/lap quicker for a roughly similar lifetime cost is a reasonable deal for me.

[e1_griego]

I was referring to Hoosier etc. Which don't make sense to me for non competitive driving events.

I don't think of nt01s and that tier of tire as proper r-comps though I know technically they are (prob shows my autox bias). I put a lot of street miles on my car so I prefer to run a hot street tire anyway.

It sounds like he doesn't have tons of seat time, which is why going ham on tires right from the start seems overkill.

[Def]

Yea, I'd say you need a minimum of 30-40 track days before really going to R-comps. Most people I've seen do it before then end up scrubbing through most of the first set before they get up to speed and start consistently driving them at 10/10ths.

NT01s are a pretty large jump over hot street tires, without a huge price increase. Hoosiers and whatnot are basically dozen heat cycle gumballs.