s13 no start

[Slayer13x]

Well i got my sending unit issue worked out but it still wont fire up. Crank and camshaft bolth at tdc. Timing shaft in backwards d with top pointing to 11:45 rotor pointing at cyl1. Car has new headgasket head bolts cap rotorplugs wires injectors battery fuel pump fresh gas . Sofar i have codes 12 13 and 21. If anyone can help plz do i need to get this car running asap. And ik im getting spark and fuel cause its shooting a flame out of whats left of the egr pipe

[v30magna]

Well if you can SEE a flame in the egr pipe, you have an egr leak probably. Go read what I have been going thru on my s13. It is doing the same thing as yours. Mine ended up being (so far), 2 bad injectors, a bad computer, a bad maf, a bad temp sensor, a bad fpr, and a bad fuel pump. The entire nissan efi system basically. Seems to have a 20 year shelf life then all the components poop the bed in unison.

Check your spark plugs, clean and gap them. Your engine is flooding. Code 13 is the 2 wire temp sensor I think, and 12 is the maf. Need a multimeter and the fsm.

If your s13 is anything like mine, you better be a troubleshooting wizard or your car is gonna end up in the classifieds or in a wreck yard.

[v30magna]

Code 21 can be found on pg 104 in the ec ef section of the free fsm. It means the computer isn't getting signal from the ignition.

[v30magna]

Got mine running. Look at my thread to see what I did.

[v30magna]

Forgot to add. I got mine to run when it had bad maf and temp sensor by cleaning the plugs really good, trying to start it a few times with the maf disconnected and the fuel pump hooked up, then I pull the fuel pump fuse and try to start it a few times (like 4-9 times). If you can't get it to go, try one more time to put the fuse in and run the starter 4-9 times, then pull fuse and do over. If no go anywhere in there you might have to clean and dry plugs again and try again.

Got a lot easier to start now that I have a good maf, had to clear ecu and I think I'm still in ecu learn mode, but I got work to do on getting it to start every time like it should.

[Slayer13x]

Well i have another car so im not in too big of a rush to finish it. But i deliver pizza for a living so id rather not put my rx8 through another ohio winter if i dont have to. And im going to order a new ignition coil and a new intake pipe cause my factory ones cracked and if im getting a bad code from the ignition i figure i can start from there and work my way from there. And ive tried cleaning the plugs and it didnt do anything but i didnt try disconnecting the maf so ill test that tonight. Hell if i have to ill aell my bike to pay for the parts. Thanks for all the help sofar ill keep you guys posted

[Slayer13x]

And my egr is deleted thats why i can see flames. The flames coming out of whats left of the pipe

[v30magna]

You didn't read what I wrote... Your maf and your 2 wire temp sensor are bad. They need to be fixed first. Both will cause the problem you are having. And you will need to clean and dry your plugs whenever they are black and or wet with fuel. Over and over again until you get it to run.

[Slayer13x]

I read what you wrote but with everything ive replaced on this car i might as well do the coil while i clean the plugs so i can rule out the coil being bad later on

[v30magna]

Bad ignition signal code has more to do with the disty and igniter than the coil, especially if you still got spark...

[Slayer13x]

I understand that but im just replacing it for the hell of it

[Slayer13x]

Ok well i tried you method and it didnt do anything. And btw its smoking out the intake and shooting flames out the intake at the same time. Also when i try to spray starting fluid through the tb it blows it back out at me

[Slayer13x]

Replacing my harness coolant temp sensor and my maf should fix my codes right? Or is there anything else i should check?

[v30magna]

That should fix the 12and 13. Make sure you replace the 2 wire sensor. I would check your harness for continuity and on the maf look for ground on the black, 12v+ on the b/w and signal volts on the white wire. Pull the maf and blow into it with harness connected and key on. If signal volts go up, it is working.

Throwing parts at problems is a good way to get rid of your money, but performing the proper tests and replacing the faulty components is a good way to fix your car. never replace any part until I can confirm that it is faulty.

[v30magna]

I replaced the fpr on my car. I got 2 bad new ones before I got one that worked. If I had not checked the pressure, I would have assumed I fixed the problem and blamed something else and missed that problem entirely, car would have never ran.

[Slayer13x]

Ok tonight im going im going to take out my harness my maf and my cts and test/clean them up/check for damage cause the block was on fire at one point for bout 20 seconds so that prob had an effect. And correct me if im wrong but from what your saying if i fix codes 12 and 13 will get rid of code 55?

[v30magna]

Code 55 means all is good... If you diagnose the issues that are causing your other codes and make repairs your car should run. If it doesn't it's back to more testing. But that's the real cost of a nissan, you gotta be a damn good troubleshooter or rich enough to pay one when it breaks down. I prefer my mazdas, even the ford probe I built for my brother, to a 240 for just about everything, but no RWD...

[Slayer13x]

Replaced the coolant sensor and cleaned the maf now im getting code 55 but still no start but plugs are getting wet now instead of black. Just to be sure on the dizzy looking from drivers side fender its topleft 1# top right 2# bottom left #3it bottom right #4. And the rotor at tdc the part that spins should be at bottom right?

[v30magna]

Im not exactly sure on your distributor timing, I think the rotor should point towards the front of the car (it should sit very close to before or even on the #1 post on the cap at tdc)

but did you test for signal from your maf?

Even after clearing these codes on my car, I still have to keep the plugs dry. If I let it sit overnight, my car only starts if I hold the pedal to the floor when i turn the key (it keeps the injectors from spraying). I'm assuming I have a very slow injector leak right now, so I'm still working on mine too.

Try getting them dry, turn the key to the run position but dont spin the starter, then pull the fuel pump fuse after the pressure builds and try to start the car a few times. (like the method i mentioned previously).

Sorry if this doesnt help. like I said, these 240s are hard to fix.

[Slayer13x]

No i havent tested the maf yet. And i found out that i had my wires on backwards so i put them on correctly and now its like right on the edge of starting to the point were the engines shaking a lot
but now when i turn the dizzy from fully clockwise it shoots smoke everywhere but when i starts to try and turn over but after a couple seconds will shoot a foot long flame out. So now im really stumped cause my timings dead on

[Slayer13x]

Is there supposed to be a vaccume line going to the fpr cause i have all my lines capped

[Slayer13x]

Meant when i turn the dizzy fully clockwise it shoots a ton of smoke everwhere and makes a hissing sound. But when i turn it counter clockwise it starts to try and turnover but at the same spot where i can feel it trying to turn over it will just shoot a giant flame after a couple seconds

[turbos14]

Yes you need a vacuum line hooked to the fpr. How else will it be able to change the pressure needed to return more or less fuel. Two with the remaining egr pipe open to air outside are will be sucked into your exhaust this can cause issues with air readings from your o2 sensor.

[Slayer13x]

Yea i realized right after i asked about the fpr. But with the exhaust im going to bend and seal the egr pipe and the air pumps pipe. I couldnt see that being enough to make the car not run though could it?

[Slayer13x]

Anyone? Id like to get this car running asap since its starting to snow already..

[turbos14]

So you lined up the dizy with the marks on the gear and shaft of it and the rotor should be pointing at number one plug wire and the crank at TDC, you have fuel but with the vacuum line hooked up you should have the correct pressure but you may want to test it. Have you check to make sure you are getting spark or at least good spark, poor spark will can fool people and not be enough for the engine to fire.

Flames coming out of intake suggest wrong timing if you have not addressed that yet. Bad timing sensor can not allow it to turn over but will send fuel and spark at the wrong time soaking the plugs and washing the cylinder walls with fuel.

By the way change your oil once you get it going, all that fuel in the oil will break down the oil and ruin your engine.

[turbos14]

Mine did same thing my distributor was damaged and the optical sensor inside that tell the ecu when to fire was sending a bad signal.

[Slayer13x]

So most likely i have a bad dizzy from what your saying? And yes my timings perfect my dizzy is pointing to 1# my cam gear is lined up with the arrow and my crankshaft is on the second tick on the left at tdc.

[Slayer13x]

And yes i have checked to make sure i have good spark my plugs wires cap rotor and ignition coil. My uncle(30 year mechanic) said that its giving off the signs of bad timing but like i said my timings dead on. The engine will start to shake like its turning itself but after a few seconds will just shoot a flame out instead

[turbos14]

Ya I think bad timing sensor which I believe is in the distributor if it's the same as the s14 ka24de. Mine fell over and it stopped working. The sensor in there is sensitive. Now the rest of the codes could be point to other bad stuff but should still allow the car to turn over except a totally shot maf but it should at least catch and start then die if that was it.

[Slayer13x]

Then that is what im going to try next

[v30magna]

Still throwing parts at it huh?

[Slayer13x]

Nah i havent had the money to put intothem it atm. Been moreso double checking everything i did to make sure i didnt do anything wrong on my part. And ive got a friend with an 89 240240sx240sx also so im gonna try using his distributor since i found out mine out of a truck that they found at pull a part.im finding out more and more about this car from my friends than i am from the kid i bought it off of

[turbos14]

Sounds fun. I hate not getting the full story from the previous owner.

[v30magna]

I always assume everyone is lying and/or don't know what they are talking about. I'm usually right.

Good job on testing. Only way you will get the truth.

Let me know if disty helps.

[turbos14]

There is a few mechanics I work with at nissan that couldn't diagnosis a paper bag but can change out part faster then flag time lol. Then it comes back and they have to fix it for free lol.

[Slayer13x]

Yea youd think hed tell me the truth since i decided to wait untill after i gave him the 500$ just so i didnt get told a bunch of bs...then again the kid didnt really know what he was doing either since the engine was "shot" since he couldnt get it to fire up

[Slayer13x]

Well tried using my friends distributor and nothing so im gonna try push starting it see if that does anything. If not then im prob gonna consider an sr20 swap since it has 200k on the block

[turbos14]

It might be cheaper. What test have you done to check spark and fuel control