SR20DET idle problem, runs rich

[REV-VID Filmwerks]

Hey guys,

I swapped a S14a SR20DET Blacktop engine in my S13 about 6 weeks ago. After some problems the engine runs, but there are still problems.
Right now, when I turn on the cold engine I got misfire and the engine run rich. Further the engine rpm jumps around 860-720 up and down.

At the moment I would that, that I need to check my MAF and then my ignition timing. Further I got an Apexi SAFC II Black Edition as a little piggy back.

Here a Video in warm condition:

108827531

At the moment I´m driving with my stock S13 fuel pump, but tomorrow I´ll change that thing for a DW300.

Further there is another problem. When I drive, my engine can't pass 1700 rpm. It starts misfiring and I need to go from the gas pedal. Over 2000 rpm the engine seems to run normal.

Do you have any idea what it could be?

Here my speclist:

- S14a SR20DET Blacktop
- 555´s Nismo Injectors
- Garrett GT2871R 472560-5015 AR0.86 and Oildrain kit
- Turboback with 2,5" Elbow and Downpipe (Japspeed)
- Deatschwerks DW300 Fuel Pump
- Genuine Nissan Z32 Fuel Filter
- NGK Iridium spark plugs - BKR7EIX
- 100 Cell Cat with Lambda screw thread
- 3" Catback
- Apexi Power Intake
- Apexi SAFC II Black Edition
- Greddy Profec E-01 Boost Controller
- KOYO 2 Row Black Copper Radiator with Cap
- ACT Xtreme Performance Organic Street Clutch Kit
- HDI GT2 Tube and Fin FMIC S14/S15
- Freddy Oil Pan
- DIF Bottom Mount Forged Turbo Coolant/Oil Lines Kit S14 SR20DET
- Nismo Engine and Gearbox Mounts
- Mobil 1 5W-50 Full Synthetic Engine Oil
- Liqui Moly GL4+ SAE 75-W90 Full Synthetic Gearbox Oil

Best regards!

[ultimateirving]

Your problem is the safc and the fact that you don't have a
Proper Ecu to Tune. Start by taking that out and at
Least
Getting a rom
Tune for your mods

[Kingtal0n]

Wow, tell me you are not boosting with the stock fuel pump


Guy above is right about you need a real tune and not a piggy back.

Also lrn2blc (learn to boost leak check) and do this regularly until you are confident you can tell the difference while driving between a leaky coupler by the way the turbocharger surges.

[REV-VID Filmwerks]

i used the fuel pump for just turning the engine on. Drove today two kilometers without boost or anything, because the actuator is not connected yet.

Will clean the maf sensor tomorrow and then look after the spark timing. After that I'll set the parameters on the safc on 0 (input=output).

For the future I plan to get a Nistune with an own ECU adjustment.

Best regards

[dorkidori_s13]

AEM or PowerFC D-Jetro, NISTune is kind of a waste of money for the SR when there are so many better solutions out there that cost a small amount more. Getting rid of your MAF and replacing with a MAP makes tuning so much easier!

Clean your MAF, check ALL of your couplers/clamps boost leaks, take your IACV off and clean it out (they like to build up with carbon/oil grunge), check all of your vacuum lines and make sure theyre all tight/have zero leaks

SAFC's are nothing more than a bandaid and are fairly unreliable.

[Kaifd3s]

Agreed. D-Jetro did wonders for my car.

[Kingtal0n]

AEM or PowerFC D-Jetro, NISTune is kind of a waste of money for the SR when there are so many better solutions out there that cost a small amount more. Getting rid of your MAF and replacing with a MAP makes tuning so much easier!

SAFC's are nothing more than a bandaid and are fairly unreliable.

red guy, I am really sorry but I completely feel the opposite with these two.

that is, maf easier than map to tune, safc pretty reliable with respect to it's intended function.

I agree with you here,
AEM or PowerFC L-Jetro, NISTune is kind of a waste of money for the SR when there are so many better solutions out there that cost a small amount more.


If your engine is modified enough to exceed the capacity of the Z-32 sensor and a little bit past that, meaning 500+ horsepower, THEN you step up to a map.
Or if you simply need to eliminate the MAF, of course it is preference on that level. I love to get rid of the MAF sure, like anybody else would desire. Who wants that thing? The fact is, maf tuning is soooo much easier because you learn actual a/f values instead of VE based fuel map values. In other words, I am putting in my desired A/F ratio with a maf, they automatically scale to a parabolic voltage so spot tuning is greatly reduced.

Another benefit of the maf is the ability to directly measure horsepower increase percentage. If you change the exhaust and see an increase in airflow on the maf you know you are going in the right direction. A MAP based tune on a turbocharged engine will not show any increase because 7psi is still 7psi.

I will love to have this discussion :D

[dorkidori_s13]

MAF is garbage... if you spend the money to go stand alone, go MAP. simply changing your air filter on a stand alone that is MAF based will actually throw your A/F ratios out of whack due to the different flow rates on different filters. at least with MAP, if you change filters or have a slight boost leak somewhere, the car still functions well. hunting down boost leaks (minor ones you cant hear with a boost leak tester) can be a damn nightmare and completely ruin your tune as well.

sorry, but MAP conversion for 90s based MAF cars makes a WORLD of difference!