Is it OK to run my SR with cold coolant?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Hi,

so I have an sr in my car. I have a colder than stock thermostat. Not exactly sure what degree it is. I run my coolant fairly cold. I think its 70/30 coolant/water with wetter water additive which drops it another 10 degrees Celsius I think. I only drive my car in the spring, summer, fall.

I have to drive my car for at least 30 min before my needle even moves on my temp gauge. Once it starts climbing to the top, my thermostat opens and you can literally see the needle start to drop in a matter of seconds. My dual fans don't ever need to come on. What a shame.

Just curious if this is OK for engine? I am thinking about putting the stock thermostat back in or maybe put in 50/50 coolant mix.

Let me know what you think.

[DJ 21o3]

Switching to the stock thermostat can give you better fuel economy and heating. I always recommend the stock thermostat unless its a track oriented car.

[snafupossum]

a warm motor(read not hot) motor is a happy motor.

[angel mkiv]

So a cars computer is setup up that on cold starts it adds a lot of fuel to warm the engine faster to get it to operating temperature..if your delaying that process then your only making your gas mileage go down.i don't think it's a bad thing as far as engine damage but I don't see the benefit on what your doin ...are you having overheating issues?

[Dboyizmlg]

It's fine.

I have been driving my car for the last 3 years this way!
It's usually under 80c, but my engine likes it and so do I. Lol

Youll be ok man

[cbeuglas]

Bty you usually do more water than antifreeze to keep a engine running cooler. Most race cars run water only in the radiators. Anti freeze (what you call coolant) is only in there to keep the water from freezing and resist corrosion. The engine temps will stay lower running more water. My guess is your thermostat is stuck open. They are designed to fail in the open position so engines won't over heat.

[cbeuglas]

The result of a stuck open thermostat will make the car take forever to warm up.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Bty you usually do more water than antifreeze to keep a engine running cooler. Most race cars run water only in the radiators. Anti freeze (what you call coolant) is only in there to keep the water from freezing and resist corrosion. The engine temps will stay lower running more water. My guess is your thermostat is stuck open. They are designed to fail in the open position so engines won't over heat.

Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure my thermostat isn't stuck open as I know its brand new and I can see the temp rising on the gauge before it drop back down.

My car isn't track driven, but sometimes I drive it like it is on the streets ;)

As for the coolant mixture. I did a little research before replying so I didn't look like a retard and you are right. I am surprised how more water will cool down the motor than antifreeze. My thoughts were completely backwards.


EDIT:
I was just curious to know if performance was affected by not letting the car warm up. Others have mentioned that mileage and fuel is an issue. What about power gains, responsiveness, etc.

Ambient temperatures where I live when I drive my car run from 10-40 celsius

Thanks

[jedi03]

You can crack rings and cause carbon buildup with running in a rich manner...engines were designed to be run at certain temps .aka opersting temperture..i recommend getting it to run warmer.

[Kingtal0n]

It is NOT GOOD to run ANY engine too cold. There are ALL kinds of problems associated with that. A good engine will warm up fast. You want it around 80-88*C

[2plus4plus0eq6]

You can crack rings and cause carbon buildup with running in a rich manner...engines were designed to be run at certain temps .aka opersting temperture..i recommend getting it to run warmer.

I have another post here about a boost leak issue I currently have:
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=5731978&posted=1#post5731978

hopefully its not related to running the engine cold. I have carbon build up inside where the hot pipe connects to the turbo. Maybe running the engine cold and boosting broke a seal or gasket. I think the damage is done whatever it may be.

I think I should be running the engine warmer just so I can say that isn't causing any problems. I can't remember if I still have the stock thermostat kicking around. Do you think I can warm up the car a lot quicker by keeping the colder T-stat and changing up the coolant mixture?

[snafupossum]

Bty you usually do more water than antifreeze to keep a engine running cooler. Most race cars run water only in the radiators. Anti freeze (what you call coolant) is only in there to keep the water from freezing and resist corrosion. The engine temps will stay lower running more water. My guess is your thermostat is stuck open. They are designed to fail in the open position so engines won't over heat.

and antifreeze will raising the boiling point of the coolant just like the pressure in the system does. Most race cars use water only because that is all they are allowed to use, it isnt by choice.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I flushed the rad today with 50/50 mix, but I think I need to change out the thermostat back to the stock one. The car heats up quicker now, but once the thermostat opens, it drops back down all the way. I am assuming the needle should be right in the middle of mix and max. Thats how I have always seen most vehicles.

Now I just have to find my stock one.

[DJ 21o3]

Yes, you want that needle around the middle. Don't trust the dash temp gauge for exact temperature though, they are designed to fall "somewhere in the middle" whenever the car is in a good operating temp to keep consumers from freaking out. Realistically, it could sit perfectly still in the center yet temp is actually fluctuating 30 degrees depending on the fans, thermostat, and driving conditions.

And about your edit above, yes you will see some performance increase. The car thinks it is too cold so it will be running rich to try and heat up. By changing thermos and allowing the car to hit proper temp, it will lean out a little and the car will operate at its full potential (short simple version).

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Yes, you want that needle around the middle. Don't trust the dash temp gauge for exact temperature though, they are designed to fall "somewhere in the middle" whenever the car is in a good operating temp to keep consumers from freaking out. Realistically, it could sit perfectly still in the center yet temp is actually fluctuating 30 degrees depending on the fans, thermostat, and driving conditions.

And about your edit above, yes you will see some performance increase. The car thinks it is too cold so it will be running rich to try and heat up. By changing thermos and allowing the car to hit proper temp, it will lean out a little and the car will operate at its full potential (short simple version).

I compared the water temp gauge in my 240sx to the one in my truck today. Now my truck is fairly new. It heats up to the middle of the water temp gauge within a few minutes of idling. Once driving around for a bit, I never see that water temp needle drop. It stays in the middle. Not sure if the thermostat never opens because it doesn't get hot enough and maybe the coolant keeps the truck at constant temp.

Isn't this something I should be striving for with my car? what are your thoughts.

Thanks

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Deleted Post

[Kingtal0n]

New thought on fixing this. Let me know what you guys think.

I believe my leak to be right where the turbine housing connects with the CHRA. Instead of disconnecting all of the fluid lines and such. Is it better and easier to disconnect my turbo elbow, exhaust manifold and wastegate so I can readjust the turbine housing? I mentioned earlier about putting some RTV on it once I get to the housing, but I don't think its supposed to be used. I think there is an o-ring that seals it. Maybe I just need to tighten the bolts more.

Maybe even leaving the exhaust manifold on and disconnecting the turbine from it.

Any thoughts on this from experience?


this is very vague but it sounds like your CHRA is leaking water from a line?

If so, there are two sides. One is easier to get to than the other. I would consider the age and quality of the turbocharger, and decide if maybe it is time for replacement of any/all gaskets, seals, lines, or even the turbocharger itself. If you are going to go through all the work of removing the manifold and turbocharger you should consider buying a whole new gasket / seal set of OEM nissan.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231008633086?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

furthermore, you have two options as far as water temp. Rule 1 is do NOT trust the gauge in your 240.
option A is to re-install the factory thermostat brand new from Nissan and forget about it

Option B is to install a real temperature gauge and monitor the temperature accurately, and get it where you want it (80-88*C) somehow, perhaps by electric fans that kick on at that temp.

I recommend option A + OEM fan shroud + clutch fan for simplicity

[2plus4plus0eq6]

this is very vague but it sounds like your CHRA is leaking water from a line?

If so, there are two sides. One is easier to get to than the other. I would consider the age and quality of the turbocharger, and decide if maybe it is time for replacement of any/all gaskets, seals, lines, or even the turbocharger itself. If you are going to go through all the work of removing the manifold and turbocharger you should consider buying a whole new gasket / seal set of OEM nissan.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231008633086?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

furthermore, you have two options as far as water temp. Rule 1 is do NOT trust the gauge in your 240.
option A is to re-install the factory thermostat brand new from Nissan and forget about it

Option B is to install a real temperature gauge and monitor the temperature accurately, and get it where you want it (80-88*C) somehow, perhaps by electric fans that kick on at that temp.

I recommend option A + OEM fan shroud + clutch fan for simplicity

Hey man thanks for the reply. I accidently wrote the above post in the wrong thread. I have another going on at the moment. I appreciate your comment tho lol. As for the water temp. I agree with you by placing a temp gauge in my engine bay and monitoring it there. I have a thermostatic temp sensor I can stick into my radiator which will control my electric fans. It just hasn't seem like I needed since my car hasn't really warmed up much. Like you said, I can't trust the gauge.

[mad-ass]

I think someone commented on this already, but race cars are only allowed to run water and water wetter only on track, because if it spills, it'll just be water, not coolant which is dangerously slippery.

Now, are you reading your temps off your stock gauge cluster? you didn't mention any actual temps and just said "needle drops" so I am going to assume that. I would suggest that you get an aftermarket water temp gauge so that you know where your water temp is by numbers, not by "1/3 up.." I am running VDO gauge/sensor with Mishimoto rad. adapter.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I think someone commented on this already, but race cars are only allowed to run water and water wetter only on track, because if it spills, it'll just be water, not coolant which is dangerously slippery.

Now, are you reading your temps off your stock gauge cluster? you didn't mention any actual temps and just said "needle drops" so I am going to assume that. I would suggest that you get an aftermarket water temp gauge so that you know where your water temp is by numbers, not by "1/3 up.." I am running VDO gauge/sensor with Mishimoto rad. adapter.
Ya it's the stock gauge. I'll see if I have one kicking around