Prok0
09-24-2014, 09:57 AM
I've been working on getting the 350Z transmission fit into my S14 for a bit now and figured I would make quick write up just to try to provide a bit more info to those who are looking to do it as I dont recall there being a ton of good information.
I worked with Brett over at Collins performance who provided me with the adapter plate and some help along the way.
Here is the initial shot of the motor/trans bolted together using the adapter plate. (There is a chunk cut from the bellhousing for clearance that I'll explain later) I had a few MM milled off the front of the bellhousing, essentially to negate the thickness of the plate (iirc it was either 9 or 11mm)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/mototransbolttogether_zps3cac3dc4.jpg
If you are running a T2x bottom mount setup the first issue you will run into is the o2 elbow not clearing the plate/bellhousing as the housing is MUCH larger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/platefitmentissue_zps9d5a7989.jpg
I remedied this by trimming the bell housing a bit, as well as the plate. There were quite a few other bolt holes for both, so I figured losing one would not present any issue since the plate was flush with the block and the bell housing was flush with the plate even without that mounting bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/bellhousingcut_zps3cc1bb12.jpg
Also for Bretts plate you need to trim the plate around the starter opening to taper the edge essentially, I tapered it and then ended up using a through bolt from the backside, drilling the starter itself out, and using a nut to hold the starter in place, and welding the through bolts to the starter. I did that because I realized once the plate/housing were bolted together you did not have access to the starter bolt holes, so instead of having to remove the transmission to change the starter I just welded a bolt to act as a stud essentially.
Also before trying to fit the transmission it is a good idea to cut this off the bell housing (casting that sticks out with the 2 bolt holes on it, I believe this is for the factory Z33 o2 sensor harness to bolt to and you dont need it) it protrudes a bit and makes removing and installing the engine/trans a bit difficult.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/trimthis_zps8f049109.jpeg
And on the driver side of the transmission where the back of the case bolts on I ended up sanding down the case slightly to buy a few more MM of clearance between it and the tunnel.
And here is the McKinney shifter bracket I ended up buying to use.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/linkeageunmodified_zps740e1c32.jpg
I ended up modifying this ( not shown in the picture ) by cutting down the actual linkeage under the bracket, making one new side to the joint directly under the vertical portion of the shifter, and drilling two new holes to move the shifter forward about 1/2 an inch.
And here was the motor ready to go in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/motor_zpsb9839f95.jpg
Once you try to install it you will notice the case itself is way bigger, I ended up hammering out the firewall a bit where the tunnel meets the front of the firewall (not entirely necessary if you put the motor in from the bottom already sat on the crossmember). The other issue is the case is really wide towards the back of the transmission, so you will notice it will hit the inside of the tunnel where the mount pedestals are.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/fitmentissuetunnel_zps41dfae69.jpg
So I ended up yanking the trans/motor out a few times, hammering things, and still could not get the clearance I really wanted so I ended up trimming the tunnel and welding a patch in. Here is the area I trimmed before I welded the patch in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/tunnelmodificationbottom_zps7783b320.jpg
Heres a shot showing the patch and the bit of grinding on the trans case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transfitmentdriver_zps7ba1af01.jpg
You will also need to hammer in the tunnel around the mount pedestals like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/hammerbrace_zps476457ce.jpg
Also if you want to buy yourself a bit more clearance and be able to raise the transmission up more, you can cut the bracing out at the top and hammer it up and weld it to probably buy an extra 3/8 an inch or so.
With the modifications to the tunnel done, the linkage trimmed I had the bottom of the linkage sitting like this through the factory shifter hole.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/linkagebeforemodifyingtunnel_zps7b9d1ba1.jpg
I wanted to use a factory hold down ring and rubber boot to seal the transmission so I ended up cutting the factory tunnel, moving the hole back, and welding in a patch that was about 2'' long, and then seam sealing everything and painting it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/tunnelmodification_zpsbc893bc4.jpg
Here is the interior placed back in to show fitment, the trans is in neutral and will shift 1-6 with the plastic trim piece and leather boot on, but I am going to make a new vertical shifter to move it forward about an inch or so, that way it looks 100% oem when the leather is on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/interiorfitment_zps2905c6a6.jpg
Heres a shot of the simple trans bracket I made, I still have to finish enlarging the holes that go to the chassis mounting point so I can recess the bolts in, then paint it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transbracket_zps865524de.jpg
Heres a shot showing how the transmission sits in relation to the frame rails, the rear most section hangs slightly below the rails (this could probably be remedied by trimming the extra metal from the mount pedestal that goes up and over the tunnel, welding it up and moving the mount up that extra 3/8th inch or so.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transfitmentbottom_zps99801064.jpg
Also for the clutch line I used an auto to manual line, put the 90 degree fitting on the slave so that I can angle it forward and avoid running it under the downpipe, placed some heat sleeving on it, and am going to make a small heat shield to use to cover the slave cylinder itself. You could make a custom line and route it a bit nicer possibly, but with the slave being on the driver side you cant use a standard KA/SR short clutch line.
The speedo I am going to be running off the diff and probably running an SGi-5 box to convert the signal from the ABS sensor.
I'll try to update this as I finish the project up, but figured I would put this out there to at least give people a little bit more info on what needs to be done to get this trans to fit up
I worked with Brett over at Collins performance who provided me with the adapter plate and some help along the way.
Here is the initial shot of the motor/trans bolted together using the adapter plate. (There is a chunk cut from the bellhousing for clearance that I'll explain later) I had a few MM milled off the front of the bellhousing, essentially to negate the thickness of the plate (iirc it was either 9 or 11mm)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/mototransbolttogether_zps3cac3dc4.jpg
If you are running a T2x bottom mount setup the first issue you will run into is the o2 elbow not clearing the plate/bellhousing as the housing is MUCH larger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/platefitmentissue_zps9d5a7989.jpg
I remedied this by trimming the bell housing a bit, as well as the plate. There were quite a few other bolt holes for both, so I figured losing one would not present any issue since the plate was flush with the block and the bell housing was flush with the plate even without that mounting bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/bellhousingcut_zps3cc1bb12.jpg
Also for Bretts plate you need to trim the plate around the starter opening to taper the edge essentially, I tapered it and then ended up using a through bolt from the backside, drilling the starter itself out, and using a nut to hold the starter in place, and welding the through bolts to the starter. I did that because I realized once the plate/housing were bolted together you did not have access to the starter bolt holes, so instead of having to remove the transmission to change the starter I just welded a bolt to act as a stud essentially.
Also before trying to fit the transmission it is a good idea to cut this off the bell housing (casting that sticks out with the 2 bolt holes on it, I believe this is for the factory Z33 o2 sensor harness to bolt to and you dont need it) it protrudes a bit and makes removing and installing the engine/trans a bit difficult.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/trimthis_zps8f049109.jpeg
And on the driver side of the transmission where the back of the case bolts on I ended up sanding down the case slightly to buy a few more MM of clearance between it and the tunnel.
And here is the McKinney shifter bracket I ended up buying to use.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/linkeageunmodified_zps740e1c32.jpg
I ended up modifying this ( not shown in the picture ) by cutting down the actual linkeage under the bracket, making one new side to the joint directly under the vertical portion of the shifter, and drilling two new holes to move the shifter forward about 1/2 an inch.
And here was the motor ready to go in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/motor_zpsb9839f95.jpg
Once you try to install it you will notice the case itself is way bigger, I ended up hammering out the firewall a bit where the tunnel meets the front of the firewall (not entirely necessary if you put the motor in from the bottom already sat on the crossmember). The other issue is the case is really wide towards the back of the transmission, so you will notice it will hit the inside of the tunnel where the mount pedestals are.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/fitmentissuetunnel_zps41dfae69.jpg
So I ended up yanking the trans/motor out a few times, hammering things, and still could not get the clearance I really wanted so I ended up trimming the tunnel and welding a patch in. Here is the area I trimmed before I welded the patch in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/tunnelmodificationbottom_zps7783b320.jpg
Heres a shot showing the patch and the bit of grinding on the trans case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transfitmentdriver_zps7ba1af01.jpg
You will also need to hammer in the tunnel around the mount pedestals like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/hammerbrace_zps476457ce.jpg
Also if you want to buy yourself a bit more clearance and be able to raise the transmission up more, you can cut the bracing out at the top and hammer it up and weld it to probably buy an extra 3/8 an inch or so.
With the modifications to the tunnel done, the linkage trimmed I had the bottom of the linkage sitting like this through the factory shifter hole.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/linkagebeforemodifyingtunnel_zps7b9d1ba1.jpg
I wanted to use a factory hold down ring and rubber boot to seal the transmission so I ended up cutting the factory tunnel, moving the hole back, and welding in a patch that was about 2'' long, and then seam sealing everything and painting it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/tunnelmodification_zpsbc893bc4.jpg
Here is the interior placed back in to show fitment, the trans is in neutral and will shift 1-6 with the plastic trim piece and leather boot on, but I am going to make a new vertical shifter to move it forward about an inch or so, that way it looks 100% oem when the leather is on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/interiorfitment_zps2905c6a6.jpg
Heres a shot of the simple trans bracket I made, I still have to finish enlarging the holes that go to the chassis mounting point so I can recess the bolts in, then paint it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transbracket_zps865524de.jpg
Heres a shot showing how the transmission sits in relation to the frame rails, the rear most section hangs slightly below the rails (this could probably be remedied by trimming the extra metal from the mount pedestal that goes up and over the tunnel, welding it up and moving the mount up that extra 3/8th inch or so.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/Prok0/transfitmentbottom_zps99801064.jpg
Also for the clutch line I used an auto to manual line, put the 90 degree fitting on the slave so that I can angle it forward and avoid running it under the downpipe, placed some heat sleeving on it, and am going to make a small heat shield to use to cover the slave cylinder itself. You could make a custom line and route it a bit nicer possibly, but with the slave being on the driver side you cant use a standard KA/SR short clutch line.
The speedo I am going to be running off the diff and probably running an SGi-5 box to convert the signal from the ABS sensor.
I'll try to update this as I finish the project up, but figured I would put this out there to at least give people a little bit more info on what needs to be done to get this trans to fit up