Bogging issue just started. Ran great before

[1stock240]

So my sons s13 was running great. I drove it home from from my dad's place over 2 hours at 70-80 most of the way. Hit some traffic along the way. Anyway car ran great, no overheating, idling great, etc. today I went to use it to go to work. Got a couple of miles from home and while accelerating I got a slight bog right around 3k rpm. Just as I was shifting into second. Car bucked and bogged again in second, third, 4th, shifted to 5th early at 2000 rpm and drove at about 50-55 keeping it below 3k. It drove good. At stop lights it idled perfect. But when accelerating normally or quickly it bogged. If I slowly gave it throttle I could avoid the bogging up to about 3k again. I pampered it to work. I read many threads in numerous forums with people having bogging issues but no one ever came back with their resolution. And just about everything under the hood was mentioned as possibilities. Anyone else have a similiar problem?

[Primo's Silvia]

Maybe the maf sensor? Or un metered air after the maf sensor.
if u have a multi meter check the signal wire on the maf and slowly raise the rpms to see if voltage rises almost evenly with the rev range it shouldnt go higher the .5v i believe.

[MilkMan1218]

I had a very similar issue in my e36, turned out changing the spark plugs fixed it. Also check cords or coils.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dboyizmlg]

It can be any thing really!

Check MAF sensor, timing, spark plugs/wires (if it's mis firing), fuel pump, air filter.
That's an idea of some of the things it might be.

[Primo's Silvia]

And before u know it u can go insane checking all these things! I sure did -____- then i tried a diffrent ecu and my prayers were answered!

[Dboyizmlg]

Look into the TPS (throttle position sensor) also, I forgot to mention that earlier.

[1stock240]

Thanks guys. I will check all those. When I'm off I'm going to do tune up items as well as clean up maf, tb, and possibly change o2 sensor. I just replaced the fuel pump and filter. Hoping someone else had the exact same symptoms and could narrow it down. Unfortunately this issue seems to have multiple things that can contribute to the problems I'm having. I'll keep you posted.

[cotbu]

Pull codes, and if no codes check and verify each sensor and its wiring, don't change plug but if you can read them pull them, but put them back unless they don't fire
Verify timing, even if it appears to be running normal. New plugs will mask the issue until they foul out. G/L

Sent from my Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4!!!

[Primo's Silvia]

One quick suggestion if u do decide to clean the maf sensor do not spray anything directly at the little opening were the sensor measure air vibration speed, rumors are it can damage it internally.

[MilkMan1218]

Are your sure that can happen, they make specifically designed chemicals to clean that stuff without damaging the internals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1stock240]

From what I gather is you gave to use specified maf cleaner not just carb or fuel injector cleaner. Many make that mistake.

[1stock240]

So update. Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned maf and throttle body. Still had same issue. Know a good mechanic who really reasonable. So I was taking it to him even though he's a little ways from me. So I'm driving there after the car has sat for about a week. Cars running good again. No bogging no issues. My wife's following me there. I get there and the guy wasn't there yet. I call him and talk it over and I decide to drive it back home. Ran great again. As I got close to home I took a sweeping corner with some enthusiasm and it happened again. I barely made it home because this time it was so much worse. Car completely acted as if it ran out of gas. Sputtered and spat all the way home but made it. Luckily it happened about 2 miles from my house. I'm going to replace the pump and sock again this weekend, blow through the fuel lines with compressed air, replace fpr. I'm pretty sure there's some kind of clog going on in fuel supply.

[1stock240]

Pull codes, and if no codes check and verify each sensor and its wiring, don't change plug but if you can read them pull them, but put them back unless they don't fire
Verify timing, even if it appears to be running normal. New plugs will mask the issue until they foul out. G/L

Sent from my Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4!!!

Well had time to work on this today. Throttle position tested bad and replaced it. New one tested good. But still had the same issue. Pulled the code from the ECU and it showing Cam position sensor. Can't order it from parts store so it looks like I;m buying a new distributor. Hope this is it. Got it on order picking it up tomorrow.

[cotbu]

Check the timing?

[blkvrtswp]

Boost leak! Check your piping couplings, MAF coupling, loose intake clamps etc. Hard to see / find sometimes.

[Dboyizmlg]

Boost leak! Check your piping couplings, MAF coupling, loose intake clamps etc. Hard to see / find sometimes.

Boost leak?

I think he has a stock KA

[1stock240]

Boost leak?

I think he has a stock KA

Yeah stock NA. Changed distributor today. Ran great at idle, under light load but went to get on it again and blah. So here's the list
New: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, Throttle position sensor and adjusted, fuel pump, filter, extra grounds run, starter, battery. Not all these were realated to my latest problem but thought I'd list them. Also changed vacuum lines, changed out for known working maf, cleaned both mafs, cleaned throttle body and ran seafoam into the intake. Car fires great, idles great. Go to give it more than a 1/3 throttle at once and nothing, doesn't rev at all then. After unplugging some things yesterday and rep lugging them in it ran like a bat outta hell for 10 minutes then started falling on its face again.

[blkvrtswp]

Ah right! Had to read again to see "cap and rotor".

As the 1st reply said "unmetered air after the MAF". This can give a very similar feeling problem as a "bogging" boost leak on NA engines.

Good luck!

[1stock240]

On a separate note we unplugged the maf while the car was idling and it died. I could be wrong but I thought car would stay running but not rev passed a certain rpm when unplugged.

[unometeeter]

dirty injectors?

[Vegass13]

maf is my best guess as well

edit: didn't see that you already switched it out nvm haha

[Dboyizmlg]

Verify the your timing is spot on! (Operating temperature).

Verify your TPS is adjusted properly, check the voltage with throttle closed, and the fully open. Also did you install a new fuel pump?

If issue still exist after this then double check all your spark plug gaps, and clean MAF a little more.

If it still exist after this, then reset your ECU clear codes.

If that don't work, then buy a used ECU or sell the car... Lol

[Ka-t in progress]

Take some carb cleaner and start spraying around,if the idle changes then there is a leak. Possibly a leak around the injectors or intake manifold. Have you checked fuel pressure?