Because NOT Racecar: How to add Sound Insulation to an S14

[Icy13]

So, my S14 is not a racecar. If you're reading this, yours probably isn't either. Because my car isn't a racecar, and because I like my Apex'i Worldsport Noir exhaust, and because I also want a premium feel in my car, I'm sound-insulating (not sound-proofing, that's not feasible) my full interior. (On a side note, if you're wondering why my car isn't a race car, check out my ride gallery. Well explained there).

Ok, introduction aside, now lets start.
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Estimated Cost (2014 Dollars) not including tool purchases: $300 ($250 for Insulation, $50 for rug doctor, upholstery tool and detergent)

Materials (estimated, will update with actual when complete):

30 Sheets (56.25 sq ft = 30*(11"x23")) - Raammat BXTII (or similar mastic-type mass-loading sound deadening)
4.5 Yds (62.43 sq ft)- Ensolite IUO (or similar self-adhesive closed cell foam. MUST be closed cell)


Tools

Aircraft Tin Snips (you want these, springloaded and amazing, could sub normal tin snips or a utility knife, but you shouldnt. Your hands will hate you. These are maybe $20 at your local home depot from major name brands)
Work Gloves (I used mechanics gloves, you want something cut resistant because we are going to have mildly thick aluminum foil and we want to avoid cuts)
Large Non-breakable (metal or plastic) mixing bowl (to hold all hardware and small trim pieces)
Phillips Head Screwdriver (for trim pieces)
12mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet for sockets
(optional) 3" extension for Ratchet (to give better swing when doing seat bolts)
(optional) 24" Breaker Bar (to loosen seat and seat belt bolts, possible with only the 8" standard ratchet, but much much much easier. Go to harbor freight. You'll love having this tool)
(optional, Highly Recommended) Torque Wrench (to put things back together correctly. Not strictly neccessary, but as we are dealing with safety equipment, spend the $20 and get the right tool. Torque tolerances are broad enough that you don't need anything better than the 1/2" drive from Harbor Freight)
(optional) Auto Trim Puller Set (check Harbor Freight, basically a set of plastic pry bars and hooks to pull off those pesky clips without marking or breaking the trim)
(optional) Access to a Nissan dealer to buy some new plastic clips. Super cheap, easier than trying to preserve all of the originals. 20 year old plastic will break, just pay $0.12 to get new clips)


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Project Overview

Strip Interior and Carpet
Vacuum and Wipe Down Stripped Interior
Insulate Rear Quarter Panels
Insulate Rear Speaker Deck
Insulate Rear Seat and Rear Wall of Passenger Compartment
Insulate Floor of Passenger Compartment
(Highly Recommended) Clean Carpet with Carpet Machine (i.e. Rug Doctor)
Re-install Carpet and Interior
Remove Door Interior Panels
Insulate Doors
Re-install Door Panels

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1.Strip Interior and Carpet

Unbolt Driver and Passenger Seats (using 14mm socket). The 3" extension is useful here to give you full swing on the bolts. The breaker can be useful to start each of the bolts, as they are rather high-torque.
Remove Front Seats, and place in a safe place. Cover upholstery with plastic bags to prevent dust from getting on them while out of car. Garages are dirty places!
Remove two trim pieces and two bolts from below the back seats. Remove lower back seats and place in bags to protect them.
Remove Two bolts from bottom of rear seat backs. Pull seat-back loops to unlatch back seat backs. Remove from car and cover to protect upholstery.
Unbolt bottom of front seatbelts. Breaker Bar is helpful here. No need to remove top, just retract the bottom as far up as possible, and tuck the bolt up out of the way.
Unbolt bottom of rear seatbelts. Retract and tuck out of the way.
NOTE: from here forward, pop your trunk and place all smaller trim in your trunk. It will fit, and it will be much better protected than tossed in a pile in your garage.
Gently but firmly slip fingers under door sills and pull upward to remove. You can also use the hook shaped auto-trim tool.
Gently but firmly tug on back seat wall panels to unclip from wall. These will NOT be removed from car, because they are held by the rear seatbelt. They are easy to tuck out of the way when needed, no reason to mess with seat belt retractors. This is how far you want to "remove" the rear seat side panels
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_164147.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_164147.jpg.html)
Loosened rear seat side panels will expose clips for the trunk pass-through trim.
Remove Trunk Passthrough rubber stripping.
Gently but firmly tug on all trunk passthrough trim. Clips will pop off and fly around the car. Find them, toss them in your bowl, and put the trim pieces in the trunk for safe keeping.
Remove Transmission trim Panel. For Manual Transmission, reach under the inside back of the shift boot and gently pull up. Remove Shift Knob, boot, and trim panel and place in trunk. For Automatic Transmission, convert to Manual Transmission (jk,jk, but I don't know, I've only ever had or seen manual s14's)
You will now see two screws going VERTICALLY down into the arm rest where the arm rest becomes the radio panel. Remove these two screws and place in your bowl
Open your armrest storage box, and you will see two more screws, unscrew these and place in your bowl.
Gently lift up the armrest and reach underneath to feel around for the mirror control plug. Unplug the mirror control switch, remove armrest, and place in your trunk.
Remove Dead Pedal from the left side of drivers side. (3 screws)
Remove Throttle Pedal Stop from right side of drivers side (1 screw)
Remove your front, under-dash kick panels by using your fingers to undo a plastic nut on the firewall and pulling gently but firmly on the door side of the panel to remove a single metal clip. Place both in the trunk and the plastic nuts in the bowl.
Your interior should now look like this:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_163047.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_163047.jpg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_163052.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_163052.jpg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_164119.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_164119.jpg.html)

2.Vacuum and Wipe Down Stripped Interior

20 Years is a long time, dust accumulates, and its that slightly sticky dust that is such a beast to remove.
Vacuum everywhere you can, get all you can get.
Get a full pack of wetwipes, and clean every inch of the exposed metal. Some will be easy (walls) some will be grimy and disgusting (particularly rear seat bed sides).
Replace wipe every time it turns fully grey. Keep wiping until you only have a moderately discolored wipe. I used something like 20-30 wipes. Wear latex gloves if you don't want to dry out your fingers.

3.Insulate Rear Quarter Panels

From above, this is where we are starting:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_164147.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_164147.jpg.html)
Pull out the foam block tucked in between the outer fender skin and the passenger compartment metal skin.
Cut one of the Raammat BXTII (henceforth called mat) sheets in half so you have two long skinny pieces (henceforth a "skinny half")
To easily apply all this mat, DO NOT remove the full paper backing. Instead, pull up about 3" from one end of the long skinny piece, reach back into the wheel well, and stick that end down with your fingers. Smack it a few times with your fist and rub it down to ensure a good bond.
Now, find the loose edge of the mat paper backing and slowly pull it off the mat while you press the mat down. Work your way forward until the backing is entirely removed and the mat is fully applied. Use a roller or taping knife (or your fingers) to firmly press the matt down into all crevices. We want maximum contact as the mat works by "mass loading" the metal. No contact, no mass load for that part of the metal.
One of the skinny pieces of matt goes on the curve of the wheel well, the other goes on the top of the wall. A third piece, comprised of another sheet cut in half the "fat" way goes in the center of the remaining space (henceforth called a "fat half").
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_170048.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_170048.jpg.html)
Now, cover all visible surfaces with the Ensolite IUO Closed Cell Foam (henceforth called foam).
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_180423.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_180423.jpg.html)
Stick the removed foam block back into the wheel arch
IMPORTANT: Using pliers, gently work any remaining white/ivory clips out of their holes. they tend to pull free of the trim panel and stick in the metal rather than pulling out with the panel. Once you seal the hole, it will be impossible to do this, so don't forget!
Using Pliers, remove the two wire harness clips from the wall. This will make the inner wheel well much easier to line. Don't forget, once the hole is sealed this will become impossible, too!
Now, take a full new sheet of mat, and hold it up to the opening in the panel. Try to center it so there is even overlap at the top and sides. Press the bottom corner to "trace" the shape of the inner wheel well curve. Cut off the corner and notch the top edge to keep the plastic clip holes accessible. Apply the mat to seal the hole. Be sure to press all edge firmly and keep the mat as taught as possible. Here's the result:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_181646.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_181646.jpg.html)
With another new sheet of Mat, cut in half the long way to get two long skinny strips. Use one full strip to line the inner wheel well arch. The other strip will be half used for the rest of the arch below the rear seat back mounting point and the other half for the flat space next to the wall. Be sure to leave about a 2" radius hole round the rear seatbelt mounting point (mine is roughly triangular)
Use the other "Fat" half sheet left over from inside the hole we just closed up to start covering the rear seat deck. Press fit the mat to the contours WITHOUT reomoveing the paper backing. Once you have a pretty good impression, remove the backing and slowly work the mat onto the weird contours (it will take time, but you want good adhesion for best results)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/Icy13/20140817_190053.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Icy13/media/20140817_190053.jpg.html)
Foam over everything, leaving holes for mounting clips and bolts. (Not yet pictured)

4.Insulate Rear Speaker Deck
5.Insulate Rear Seat and Rear Wall of Passenger Compartment
6.Insulate Floor of Passenger Compartment
7.(Highly Recommended) Clean Carpet with Carpet Machine (i.e. Rug Doctor)
8.Re-install Carpet and Interior
9.Remove Door Interior Panels
10.Insulate Doors
11.Re-install Door Panels

[Icy13]

Reserved for Future Updates

Note, this project will be completed in the next week. More pictures and steps will be provided as I take em and make em.

[DRFT180]

Glad to see someone else doing this. I plan to at some point in the future. Have you taken any noise level measurements (dB) before the work?

[Icy13]

No, I have not taken noise measurements. I lack the professional equipment to do so, and my impression is that any amateur attempt (ie an app) would not be worth the time or effort.

Additionally, this is primarily about the qualitative rather than quantitative change. I am interested in stopping the audible gravel ping I hear from the rear wheels and the obvious roar from the exhaust. If that succeeds, it will be worth it to me.

I also imagine the difference will be significant enough that a qualitative measure should be demonstrative of the change.

[rastaman]

Nice to see non race 240s getting some love..one day I will do this.

[jr_ss]

If you want to get real fancy you can get some of that expanding high density foam and fill your rockers as well. It'll not only reduce road noise, but stiffen your chassis as well. Has been done and documented.

[az_240]

I'd be skeptical of expanding foam if you live in an area with high humidity. I've seen some issues with foam and rust.

Wish I knew that peel and stick foam existed when I did this to my s14...

[Icy13]

Yeah, I've thought about the foam since I saw the quiet steel commercial 5 years ago. But I think the tried and true mass loading mat + closed cell foam will achieve enough results for a premium feel.

For those intersted, back seats + rear deck are done, pics and narration soon, my fingers are all bandaged and I'm dead tired tonight.

Eta for full project is looking like Thursday.

[genericforumname]

I have been thinking of doing this exact thing. I figured since I had to strip my interior to pull my sunroof I might as well stick some dynamat or something down.

if I decide to do so I may take some pics and add to this if that's ok. I was also going to put some in the trunk and behind rear seat area to quiet down exhaust sound but I'm not sure how effective that would be.

[Icy13]

My install is based on the excellent information on the general principles of how to do this right from the company I bought my materials from.

http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html

I found this company by reading other installs, and general consensus seems to be that raammat+ensolite is the best price/performace/convenience combination. Almost everyone recommended against dynamat for the same reason no one buys monster hdmi cables. Up to you.

[az_240]

I have been thinking of doing this exact thing. I figured since I had to strip my interior to pull my sunroof I might as well stick some dynamat or something down.

if I decide to do so I may take some pics and add to this if that's ok. I was also going to put some in the trunk and behind rear seat area to quiet down exhaust sound but I'm not sure how effective that would be.

I used over 60 sq ft of Second Skin Damp Pro (one of the better products) in my car as well as some other stuff where the exhaust is and the difference was minimal at best. It doesn't do a whole lot at keeping sound out... it works much better at keeping sound in (like from a stereo system). The car also feels a bit more 'sturdy' when driving it... kinda takes away that tin can feeling.

Probably better to just put a resonator in your exhaust or get a different one.

I hear Luxury Liner works pretty good at keeping sound out though... haven't tried it myself.


Also you will be TIRED after doing this... it took me like a week to do 60+ sq ft because it was hot out and just wore me out. I just used 90% isop alcohol and an old/clean T-shirt when wiping the panels down. Also cut slits wherever there were air bubbles to get good adhesion.

And yeah, the weight really isn't that much.

[EsChassisLove]

I'm doing this soon. When you make 500hp you can add a little weight lol

[Icy13]

I'm doing this soon. When you make 500hp you can add a little weight lol
I know this comment is tongue in cheek, but I wanted to address it.

My complete shipping weight for my sound deadening was 39lbs. Worst case, that's what I'm adding to my car.

That's the same weight as a grocery run, a cooler with ice and a 6 Pack, my right leg, or a third of a small passenger.

For fux sake, this obsession with removing a miniscule amount of weight to reduce the every day functionality of a car is ludicrous. There was one guy trying to strip out the cruise control wiring because "he never used it". Oi!

[g14novak]

I know this comment is tongue in cheek, but I wanted to address it.

My complete shipping weight for my sound deadening was 39lbs. Worst case, that's what I'm adding to my car.

That's the same weight as a grocery run, a cooler with ice and a 6 Pack, my right leg, or a third of a small passenger.

For fux sake, this obsession with removing a miniscule amount of weight to reduce the every day functionality of a car is ludicrous. There was one guy trying to strip out the cruise control wiring because "he never used it". Oi!

In that case, the savings are negligible. If it's more wiring, sure. I just redid the chassis harness in my car. Replaced the original 90 automatic power everything wiring with a base model 90 harness. Visually, the harness was half the size. I had to cut the auto harness into pieces to move it easily. I know it lost weight because I use to have a harness going thru the passenger wheel well of ~15 wires which does not exist now. Without using a scale, I'm going to assume I cut out ~20 lbs by replacing a factoey harness with another factory haness.

That being said, your not going to make up any significant weight unless you install a custom chassis harness.

Back on topic, ive heard its a old racer secret to buy cheap ass blankets from walmart and tear the stuffing out of them and jam pack the empty spaces between the interior and the shell of the car. Supposedly cuts down on huge amounts of noise, mainly absorbing exhaust rasp. Dunno if theirs any truth to it or not. Its something I'm still looking into.

[Kingtal0n]

Racecar or not, weight affects fuel use and braking and handling.

40lbs. seems like nothing. But every little bit counts. When you spend hours to get at 12.5lbs its hard to go back and add 40 for the sake of comfort. Think of 26mm aluminum brakes people are using to cut back on rotor weight. That just makes sense on a daily.

I am not against this at all; Rather I am against the idea of turning up the heat, then turning up the A/C to compensate. In other words, If I spend cash to install a loud exhaust, and then I spend cash to install better sound insulation, I turned up the heat- then turned up the A/C.

Should have just left the heat off to begin with.


By the way- nice write up. I am interested to see more pictures. I hope you shot everything else you insulated. Very well documented and time spent / effort coordinated.
Thank you for sharing.

[az_240]

Back on topic, ive heard its a old racer secret to buy cheap ass blankets from walmart and tear the stuffing out of them and jam pack the empty spaces between the interior and the shell of the car. Supposedly cuts down on huge amounts of noise, mainly absorbing exhaust rasp. Dunno if theirs any truth to it or not. Its something I'm still looking into.

Problem with this is most of that material is extremely flammable. If there's any spark and that stuff starts to go it would mess your day up very quickly.

[Icy13]

Racecar or not, weight affects fuel use and braking and handling.

40lbs. seems like nothing. But every little bit counts. When you spend hours to get at 12.5lbs its hard to go back and add 40 for the sake of comfort. Think of 26mm aluminum brakes people are using to cut back on rotor weight. That just makes sense on a daily

But my point is that on a daily, every little bit doesn't count because the load is so variable anyway (full vs. Empty gas tank, cargo, passengers, etc) that tuning a 2700lb mass by 40lbs is silly.

I understand that new cars and oems do careful tuning at this order of magnitude, but it's not like we're adding dead weight. We're adding a new feature or subsystem. If this were a racing game, this would be a purchaseable option just like suspension or bolt on engine mods.

I am not against this at all; Rather I am against the idea of turning up the heat, then turning up the A/C to compensate. In other words, If I spend cash to install a loud exhaust, and then I spend cash to install better sound insulation, I turned up the heat- then turned up the A/C.

Should have just left the heat off to begin with.

but I didn't purchase a loud exhaust, I purchased a GT exhaust. The noir was quite literally designed to be subtle. I purchased an exhaust note, not a decibel level. And I can confirm the the sound deadening really does improve the note.

A more apt metaphor would be fine scotch. All the pros tell you that you should add water, and everyone (myself included) balks at that at first. Why pay $$$$ for the good stuff and then "water it down." their explanation is that you do what you want with the things you spend your money on. But, if you don't add water, you're missing the subtlety that your paying the money for.


By the way- nice write up. I am interested to see more pictures. I hope you shot everything else you insulated. Very well documented and time spent / effort coordinated.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks. I did shoot (almost) everything, and pics should be up in the next couple days.

[Icy13]

Problem with this is most of that material is extremely flammable. If there's any spark and that stuff starts to go it would mess your day up very quickly.
110% this.

Sound deadening is $300 of materials and 15-20 hours of labor. Don't try to save money on the cheap half and endanger your life.

[Kingtal0n]

I purchased an exhaust note, not a decibel level. And I can confirm the the sound deadening really does improve the note.



Just so you are aware, the OEM 240sx exhaust will support 250-275RWHP no problem. And is whisper quiet.

Fun facts :D

[zooopreme]

Hey OP, curious as to why you didn't remove the old stock stuff before applying the new sound deadening? I mean I know you don't care much for weight but wouldn't the old sound deadening remove some old dead weight?

I mean I don't know for sure how much the old sound deadening would weight but let's assume that they are the same in weight. Removing and putting a better sound deadening would give you the results you wanted and not adding "dead" weight, am I right?

Just so you are aware, the OEM 240sx exhaust will support 250-275RWHP no problem. And is whisper quiet.

Fun facts :D

Man, THIS.

[Smurf_240SX]

In for updates!

[Icy13]

Just so you are aware, the OEM 240sx exhaust will support 250-275RWHP no problem. And is whisper quiet.

Fun facts :D
But I don't want whisper quiet, I want something fun and mellow. See scotch metaphor above.

Perhaps I was unclear, my exhaust was not loud before, I have the world sport noir and I love it. It's louder than stock and that is something I want. But as many other people have said and can attest to, mid 90s sound deadening leaves a lot of refinement to be desired. This was about refinement, not silence. Because I like metaphors, I wanted a Symphony hall exhaust experience not an outdoor rock concert. Full, deep, and resonant rather than simply loud.

Hey OP, curious as to why you didn't remove the old stock stuff before applying the new sound deadening? I mean I know you don't care much for weight but wouldn't the old sound deadening remove some old dead weight?

I mean I don't know for sure how much the old sound deadening would weight but let's assume that they are the same in weight. Removing and putting a better sound deadening would give you the results you wanted and not adding "dead" weight, am I right?

On a strictly cost-benefit analysis, 10 hrs of freezing and thawing and prying and damaging the paint didn't seem worth it for maybe 30 lbs.

In terms of my end goal, I wanted more sound deadening, not just different sound deadening. To use (another) metaphor, I could have removed the 3" ratchet extension and used a 6" extension. But I wanted 9" of extra reach, so...

[LoganDavenport]

This is awesome. good to see a 240sx not being torn apart because its a "racecar" or "driftcar"

Hats off to you sir.

[FaLKoN240]

Think of 26mm aluminum brakes people are using to cut back on rotor weight. That just makes sense on a daily.

The rotors on S chassis are all the same material. I think you're talking about CALIPER weight.

Rotational VS. Unsprung weight

[Icy13]

The rotors on S chassis are all the same material. I think you're talking about CALIPER weight.

Rotational VS. Unsprung weight
Well, he could have meant that 4mm thinner rotors are a weight savings. But I would again say that is splitting hairs far to finely.

[BossHogg]

because not race car. Installs race pedals. Sorry I had to.

[racepar1]

On a strictly cost-benefit analysis, 10 hrs of freezing and thawing and prying and damaging the paint didn't seem worth it for maybe 30 lbs.

In terms of my end goal, I wanted more sound deadening, not just different sound deadening. To use (another) metaphor, I could have removed the 3" ratchet extension and used a 6" extension. But I wanted 9" of extra reach, so...

You have CLEARLY never removed sound deadening with dry ice. 10 hours??? I did my old S13 in like 3 hours with dry ice. Some areas are a PITA, but the vast majority of it just shatters right off. Once the sound deadening material is removed, clean the residue with a shitty old terrycloth towel and some lacquer thinner.

On another note, people don't really realize just how much noise is coming from the engine through the firewall. The VAST majority of what you think is exhaust noise is actually engine noise coming through the firewall.

because not race car. Installs race pedals. Sorry I had to.

Those are Tenzo pedals. They're not race pedals, they're RICE pedals...

[Icy13]

You have CLEARLY never removed sound deadening with dry ice. 10 hours??? I did my old S13 in like 3 hours with dry ice. Some areas are a PITA, but the vast majority of it just shatters right off. Once the sound deadening material is removed, clean the residue with a shitty old terrycloth towel and some lacquer thinner.

Yes, 3 hours + the time and effort of finding and sourcing the dry ice and safety equipment. And still doesn't answer the issue of negligible weight and counter purpose.

3 hours still seems a silly waste to me given my purpose.

On another note, people don't really realize just how much noise is coming from the engine through the firewall. The VAST majority of what you think is exhaust noise is actually engine noise coming through the firewall.

I thought about that, actually, but I didn't want to strip the dash and I noticed that there is already a thick rubber and jute pad behind the petals and going up the firewall. You are certainly correct about engine noise, however with he amount I did (floor and rear wall and deck) I achieved my purpose.

Those are Tenzo pedals. They're not race pedals, they're RICE pedals...
Those are $5 from wekfest. I haven't decided about them, but my initial thought was slightly better than 19 year old worn rubber.

I'm going for a gt car. I'm not sure I need "race pedals. " in fact, I think you'll find metal or metal-look petals in past every contemporary production car. They are not race car, either.

On a related note, I would be intersted (in another thread) in trying to nail down the meaning of "rice." I understand the concept, I know it when I see it, but that's not a definition. Racepar1, you are by no means responsible for solving this and you are not wrong for calling those pedals what they are. But, it occurs to me that it could be an interesting discussion.

[Kingtal0n]

Rice (modern definition) is often a slow car, driving fast / loud /carelessly (pointlessly loud, speeding 60mph in a school zone with 105 horsepower) often bound to uneducated short sighted owners


The Opposite is quick car, driving slow / quiet
example 95 240sx with stock exhaust / stock sidemount / stock wheels + sr20det


So many people are let down when they finally realize... it isn't actually stock.
Street rules are different then race car rules.
The stock sr20det + 240sx combo rules the street for most comparable 90's technology in the $5k price bracket IMO, partially due to chassis weight and partially due to it's inherent potential for reliability, economy, and perhaps more important, re-sale ability and long-term value when installed properly (which almost never happens).

[Icy13]

Rice (modern definition) is often a slow car, driving fast / loud /carelessly (pointlessly loud, speeding 60mph in a school zone with 105 horsepower) often bound to uneducated short sighted owners

The problem with this definition is that:
1. It's primarily about the driver, not the car
2. It doesnt explain rice-y 240sx because a stock ka pumps out 150 per sticker (please no debates about hp vs. Whp)
3. It doesnt encompass the original impetus in this thread (mainly my cheapo petals)
4. It is broad enough that it's purely a measure of taste (i.e. What's pointlessly loud). Which, I suppose, it really is, but I think we could be a little more precise

The Opposite is quick car, driving slow / quiet
example 95 240sx with stock exhaust / stock sidemount / stock wheels + sr20det
The problem with this as the opposite is that most people would call this a sleeper, not a nicely modified car. I would also call a properly done sr20 swap with stock everything a poorly executed car because it leaves too many easy supporting mods off the car.

And stock rims can never be said to be on a nicly modified car (this is my opinion, but 1995 was not a good year for oe alloy wheels). It's just such a simple modification with so many quality and affordable choices that it smacks of laziness to leave stock rims on a car you've put any money into.

[DRFT180]

When did this become about pedals and "rice"?

More sound deadening yo!

[Kingtal0n]

The problem with this definition is that:
1. It's primarily about the driver, not the car
2. It doesnt explain rice-y 240sx because a stock ka pumps out 150 per sticker (please no debates about hp vs. Whp)
3. It doesnt encompass the original impetus in this thread (mainly my cheapo petals)
4. It is broad enough that it's purely a measure of taste (i.e. What's pointlessly loud). Which, I suppose, it really is, but I think we could be a little more precise


The problem with this as the opposite is that most people would call this a sleeper, not a nicely modified car. I would also call a properly done sr20 swap with stock everything a poorly executed car because it leaves too many easy supporting mods off the car.

And stock rims can never be said to be on a nicly modified car (this is my opinion, but 1995 was not a good year for oe alloy wheels). It's just such a simple modification with so many quality and affordable choices that it smacks of laziness to leave stock rims on a car you've put any money into.


well then google it M#@&*@# F#@*&*#&


Lmao jk its just one opinion out of 10 billion. Sometimes stock 16" SE wheels make the car appear.... original. when every bolt under the hood has been changed after the fact.

2. I define rice by the driver. because if you make rice a car definition, that means anyone you stick into the car (imagine your favorite driver just wants to get milk) is now ricing it up with ricers

[stravi757]

nice, looks really good

[Icy13]

When did this become about pedals and "rice"?

More sound deadening yo!
Yes yes, sorry all, the install is complete and I have many pictures, just haven't had a chance to sit down and write it all up.

[DRFT180]

Any update here?

[seagrasser]

In for updates and similar build goals

[AWD260R]

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/625580_10151319356841791_851077407_n_zps96a77232.j pg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/625580_10151319356841791_851077407_n_zps96a77232.j pg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/296517_10151314840701791_2103837243_n_zpsb698e49d. jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/296517_10151314840701791_2103837243_n_zpsb698e49d. jpg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/305239_10151319353416791_1270603917_n_zps5b88dc25. jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/305239_10151319353416791_1270603917_n_zps5b88dc25. jpg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/599372_10151314840911791_119007210_n_zps4a55b956.j pg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/599372_10151314840911791_119007210_n_zps4a55b956.j pg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/524155_10151319351646791_1924269531_n_zps35692c1f. jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/524155_10151319351646791_1924269531_n_zps35692c1f. jpg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/168553_10151314841056791_266889697_n_zpsdc965bbf.j pg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/168553_10151314841056791_266889697_n_zpsdc965bbf.j pg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y101/ernestonido/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/482030_10151319350826791_1971075218_n_zps32552f2e. jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/ernestonido/media/S14%20RB26DETT%20AWD/482030_10151319350826791_1971075218_n_zps32552f2e. jpg.html)

I done mine and boy is it quiet:)

[OBEEWON]

Wow. Zilvia members gallery. So Amaze.

[0wn3r]

I have the 3 pieces of factory sound deadening material below the S14 rear seat bottom if anyone wants it... they each came out all in one perfect piece, so I held on to it. Just pm me.

[OBEEWON]

Honestly I feel like even race cars should have sound deadening. To keep the heat out and to allow the driver to concentrate.

Also so biddies can hear when you whisper sweet nothing in their ear.

[Smurf_240SX]

wow this looks great!