OBX vs B&M short shifter comparison (big pics inside)

[019]

Since I had both the B&M and the OBX short shfiters, I thought it'd be a good idea to test both of the shifters. Both shifters were tested back to back on the same car and day, so there was minimal time difference between drives. The first noticeable difference between the two shifters are the heights.

http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/obx3.jpg
http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/bm1.jpg

The OBX shifter on the left sits at stock height, which is noticeable higher than the B&M. I don't have exact measurements, but you can tell from the pictures. The shift boot is as low as it will go, so there's no tricks being played here. The next biggest noticeable difference is that the B&M shifter doesn't move as far left and right when in neutral, resulting in shorter 2nd to 3rd shift. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of that, so you'll just have to take my word for it, haha.

http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/obx4.jpg
http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/obx5.jpg

I measured the 1st to 2nd shift on the OBX shifter at roughly 9.5 cm. Now I know this is not the most scientific way of doing this, but I just thought a rough estimate would be close enough.

http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/bm2.jpg
http://www.streetdynamics.com/members/ukann/reviews/images/bm3.jpg

The 1st to 2nd shift on the B&M was about 8.5 cm. The one thing that I wondered about the measurements was the difference in shifter heights. Since the OBX is higher than the B&M, that would make the distances naturally longer, but I guess that's just part of getting a different shifter, although a little cutting and welding would get the OBX at the same height and possible the same shift lengths. One thing that the pictures show well is the difference in the positioning of the shifter in 2nd gear. The B&M is far closer to the center than the OBX. Another difference nice thing about the B&M shifter is that the shifter feels very solid. When in gear, there is no play in the shifter, which might help explain why the shifter vibrates at high rpm's. The B&M just feels much nicer when shifting, although it does require a little more push to get in gear. The OBX shifter is nice in that it allows for much faster shifting and smoother shifts. The difference between the B&M and OBX is night and day. The OBX is sloppier, but allows for easier shfits. I like to think of it as a stock shifter except shorter, very good for drag racing. The B&M is solid and shorter, my pick for anyone who goes to road courses.

[Yoshi]

wow man.
what res are you at that both those pix fit w/o wrapping?

[420sx]

great write up, this should go into FAQ section. i have my B&m and absolutely love it for quality.


oh, and B&m gets a lil easier to shift with time, its gets slightly loose but still very very solid.

[old_s13]

the b&m rattles because of hte insert and crappy knob (if used). remove those and no rattle on KA or SR.

the B&M requires a bit of muscle if you're forcing gears. if you revmatch or drive smoothly, the gears fall into place and every shift is smooth as silk. however, the only times i really have to muscle it is when going into 1st in the mornings (i requires a bit of a push) or when downshifting into 1st (most cars are like this).

- mike

[AceInHole]

hmm.... guess i'll have to wait for my friend's shifter to loosen up, cause i hated the B&M....

[240 2NR]

Regardless of the analytical comparison (though it seems to be winnning anyway), the B&M is by far the superior unit. It's a little tight when new (like a rifle bolt) but it looses nicely and has incredible feel after a few months of use. In the cold it can be a pain on the one-two shift, but the overall increase in shift precision over the sloppy stock knob more than makes up for it. I've used the OBX breifly, and while the shifts are shorter than stock it's a very harsh shifting unit. I never felt like I actually engaged a gear, it always felt just short of grabbing, even though it was engaged.

Even my mechanic praised the B&M.

[019]

yea, i still have to fix the insert thing in the shifter. the gt shift knob actually "absorbs" the rattle pretty well. i used to have a butt plug nismo shift knob and that one rattled like CRAZY! i'm aware of why the shifter rattles, but i thought this might help explain why it happens. my thinking was something along of the lines of the OBX and stock have some play when in gear, so any vibrations aren't as noticed since it's still loose. the B&M doesn't have any play when in gear, so vibrations are amplified. does that make sense? heh

the B&M is definitely a pleasure to drive with around town. the only time it takes a little more effort is when driving the car hard. i was just comparing to the OBX. didn't mean to say you had to use a lot of muscle to get it in gear, haha. i guess i didn't word it well.

i think the OBX is kinda like a stock shifter except shorter. just as easy to shift, but slightly notchier.

the main purpose of this review was just for ppl to see the differences from someone who has actually driven with both shifters. we keep seeing these threads and everyone swears by their shifter. just wanted to add some information out there. i'd pick the B&M hands down, which is why it's back in my car ;)

the resolution is 800x600. i didn't insert it in the text tho. just added pics on a separate line.

[INeedNewTires]

This is a little OT but not really..... My shifter tends to fall out of 5th gear really easily. What causes this? worn bushings maby? Also, whenever i shift into each gear, mostly 2nd and 3rd it grinds the gears, is this a bad tranny or worn clutch or what?

after reading this review ill probably pay the extra money and get the B&M. i absolutely love quality driver upgrades. Great writup man.

[NotDave]

i cant spend that much on a damn shifter...i just cant.

where are the fifteen dolla shifters like the honda boys?

[vvtisupra]

yah seriously now you ask your self is that 1or 2 cm throw really worth that extra 120 dollars

[kcolyer27]

I shifted the b&m before i didnt really liek it. Its definatly too stiff.

[019]

yah seriously now you ask your self is that 1or 2 cm throw really worth that extra 120 dollars

now you also have to ask yourself whether you want a very precise shifter or not. the shorter throw is just something i wanted to point out, b/c i've seen ppl argue about which one is shorter. i'm sure you could just cut the top of the OBX and rewelded lower to get a shorter throw tho. but it's a crytal clear difference between the B&M and the OBX. the OBX still has that slop of the stock shfiter. the B&M is very precise and solid. i've never mis-shifted or missed a gear with my B&M, but it's happen a few times with the OBX. of course, it's all subjective. everyone likes what they want. i tried to be as objective as i could with the review so ppl could get an idea of what each was like. i only hope i helped. whether you want to spend the extra money or not is your choice. i think it's worth the extra money :D

[old_s13]

i blew up my KA because i mis-shifted, i had the B&M shifter. i wont completely blame it on the shifter because thats just silly, but i will say that i wouldnt be surprised if it played its part in assisting my mis-shift. why? because i was driving over rough terrain and the gears are VERY close together. I was using the factory B&M knob at the time, which is held from above.

after blowing my KA, i threw away the shift knob because it was bad luck. I picked up a basic nismo black knob, this one is held on sideways. i like this setup much better, plus.. i am a LOT more cautious on my shifts because i dont ever want to over-rev my SR (obviously).

so, i've learned to be smoother and do things like ALWAYS rev-match and make sure the transmission sucks the shifter into the next gear. when i blew up the last motor, I focused more on being quick with the shifter and clutch. combine that with driving on bumpy terrain and yer bound for destruction.

regardless.. i think the B&M is a great unit, i liked it LONG before I had it. I sat in a friends car and knew that was the shifter for me. If someone sold a unit thats precise but a bit more spaced apart (like an s2000 or NSX shifter) than I would definately buy that, but in the meantime.. this is all we have.

I dont care for any other short shifter because it doesnt feel precise. I am not looking for short shifts, i think thats all bogus for people to think they can drive quicker.. thats crap. what i am looking for is quality shifts and excellent shifter feel. like i said, drive an NSX and you'll understand what a quality stock shifter is. factory 240sx shifter is absolute crap.

[pruto]

wow, where have i been? mike, you got an SR? i want an SR =(

am i the only one left in the world rocking a stock KA?


oh, on the shifter thing. I've had a couple drift runs last year in my friends s13 with B&M and s13 with C's (obx copys the C's). I gotta say. The B&M was by far the more impressive of the two units. Super clean shift and precise. It gives you the confidence that the shift will aways be there, and you can never misshift. On my stock shifter i've missed 2->3 a few times while driving hard. It sucks. $120 would be too much to pay if you just want shorter throws. But its also quality, precision, and a better feel you're paying for. You get what you pay for, and many obx owners have realized that that shifter is crap. I heard the top part comes off often, its loose, still feels stock even if the throw is shorter.

i've made this comparision before.

obx shifter -> $80
b&m shifter (or C's) ->$200
throwing away your crappy obx then buying a b&m -> 80+200 = $280

do it right the first time, or don't do it at all.

[MakotoS13]

am i the only one left in the world rocking a stock KA?


you are not alone...

yeah, quality shifters focus on feel rather than throw. ever driven a roush mustang? it feels like your driving a real sports car when they ditch the crap stock shifter... quality is worth 200+ bones any day of the week.

[drift into a curb]

Hmm.. 80 dollars for a piece of metal and 120 dollars for track time OR 200 bucks for a piece of metal.

I'd like order number 1 please. I gotta admit the OBX copy sucks, but it gets the job done and is quite precise (doesn't have to be tight on neutral exactly because if you don't know you're in neutral, you got problems). If you mis-shift, you need to be a little more cautious when rev-matching. If it doesn't pop in to gear when you match, it's not ready or you're pushing on the wrong gear. I'd rather brush up my skills with that extra $120, but hey, that's just me. If the $200 is justified by allowing you to drive better, more power to you.

[thx247]

....Or a grand on wheels vs 8 track days....?

[TheTimanator]

i cant spend that much on a damn shifter...i just cant.

where are the fifteen dolla shifters like the honda boys?
then sell your 240 and get another Honda (no offense). 240's are not really cheap cars to modify properly. Also, just like the 240's there are 2 different styles for honda's. The cheap= just replaces the shifter for $40. The more exspensive version= replaces whole shifter assembly and is far superior which is like $160.

Anyway, this arguement has been beaten to death. What insert are you guys talking about? got a pic so I can remove it when I get around to getting one?

[SHIFTrl240]

i have pilot(obx) and its totally different than stock.. thats all i need. plus i got it at the best price: free

[old_s13]

tim> What insert are you guys talking about? got a pic so I can remove it when I get around to getting one?

there is only one insert, its the black thing that the boot attaches to. its held on by e-clips. remove it, its junk.

curbdrifter> I'd rather brush up my skills with that extra $120, but hey, that's just me. If the $200 is justified by allowing you to drive better, more power to you.

i dont think like you do. i think like this:
if i want to learn, i learn with stock. i KEPT stock for about 3-4 months. after much time with stock (and highly disliking it), i upgraded to the shifter i knew i would like.. because i tried various shifters and fell in love with the b&m. if you cant afford something or cant justify spending money on it, you dont buy it. BUT, if you want something.. you should buy it -- its as simple as that. if i am going to buy something for my car, i wont cheap out first.. i'll set my mind to getting something and when ready, i'll attain it. time is money and i hate wasting my time with bullshit parts that dont stack up and end up costing me more time and more money in the long run.


makoto> yeah, quality shifters focus on feel rather than throw.

its amazing how many of your comments i agree with.


pruto> wow, where have i been? mike, you got an SR? i want an SR =( am i the only one left in the world rocking a stock KA?

blah whatever.. it doesnt matter. i like the SR, after working on both KA and SR i think more time went into the design of the KA.. its just a nicer motor. however, i didnt care to go SR.. i wasnt lusting for it like most idiots do. after all this shit i've been through, i really have no preference anymore.. all i want is a simple setup, regardless of the name or make of the motor. it just happens to be the SR fits our cars like a glove, so being that i had little time i said fuckit and went with that motor. i originally wanted a high-compression carb SOHC KA setup.. but whatever, those were expensive dreams. when you start getting burnt out in the automotive scene, you stop thinking about how cool and rare things are, and just getting the job done. pickup clip, cleanup and restore motor, install properly.. and be done.

- mike

[sykikchimp]

This is a little OT but not really..... My shifter tends to fall out of 5th gear really easily. What causes this? worn bushings maby? Also, whenever i shift into each gear, mostly 2nd and 3rd it grinds the gears, is this a bad tranny or worn clutch or what?

after reading this review ill probably pay the extra money and get the B&M. i absolutely love quality driver upgrades. Great writup man.

sounds like your synchro's are wearing out.

[TurDz]

sounds like your synchro's are wearing out.

I have the same problem as above, but just the 2->3 shift. I am very confident in my shifting techniques, and I don't feel it's my fault when I get grinding from 2->3. This is what happens. I upshift from 2->3, and the shifter goes in the 3 position, but it grinds in that position. I have to back off, put it back into neutral, and re-enter 3rd. This has happened to me about 3 or 4 times since last year, and it's happened with the stock shifter and once with the C's. I had a 4th Gen Maxima before this w/ a short throw shifter also, and I never once encountered this.

is this problem also related to the tranny or synchros? thanks for any help.

---

on a side note, I can say that I'm very satisfied with my C's shifter. I've never felt the B&M (I'm curious to try), but my C's has no problems whatsoever. I don't feel like I can ever miss a gear, the shifter is brought closer toward the rear of the car (closer to my reach) and the feel is GREAT. In neutral there is no play at all, it can only move a little bit left and right and is stiff. The effort to get the shifter into gears is moderate, and most of all, I wasn't dissatisfied at all with it. I have no intentions on swapping it with anything else.