Budget S14 Zenki 1UZ/How To

[Fries]

Why the 1uzfe?
-It's cheap. A lower mileage motor can be had from a junkyard for $500 or less. The complete swap won't cost you more than $3,200. (without Y pipe)

-It's reliable. Look up early 90's LS400s forsale and you'll notice a ton with over 225k miles. I've seen upwards of 310K.

-It's light. Weighs in at around 400lbs (minus trans). That's only 30lbs heavier than a KA24DE without the transmission, 100lbs lighter than a VH45. With KA/SR transmission it weighs within 10lbs of a sr20det swap (with transmission).

-It fits. Tightly on the passenger side and the header must be modded to clear the steering column, but you don't have to cut your hood like a VH45.

-Pretty good powerlevel. 250HP/260TQ.

I could not in good conscience swap in a sr20det for a street car with occasion track duty for the amount of money it would cost to achieve the same power level and reliability of the 1uz. I will say that if I was trying to be competitive in AutoX or something similar the sr20 would be the better swap. The 1uz puts you in the same class as light cars with LSx motors.


How to Wire the 1991 LS400 1UZFE to a 1995 240sx

Purchase a couple fuse blocks.
1x http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-s8202-4/overview/

Optional
Get a handful of relays. I got some from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-12V-12-Volt-30-40A-Automotive-Relay-Socket-30-amp-40-amp-relay-/301224441434?pt=US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item462260365a

Make sure you have a spare engine harness to cannibalize. You'll need the dash plug and harness for wipers. It's helpful to have the transmission (lower) harness as well. I did not so I bought individual plugs/pigtails from www.wiringspecialties.com

This website has the pinouts for every plug on the s14.
http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=7091

Use your FSM (you can find it online) to verify what the plugs are.

Use this website to find your wiring diagram for the 1uz: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0WE7dVhvJd_STE2UTdiQWpjWWs&usp=sharing&tid=0B0WE7dVhvJd_MGswNmc4Q0VxOUk


Like I said, 1991 LS400 1uzfe. The same as 1990-1992 if I remember correctly. After 1992 they switched to a different ECU pinout. But if you follow my directions and get the correct wiring diagram for the 1uz, you'll have no problem with wiring it up.

The plugs are numbered according to the wiring diagram, so that's why it jumps around. I was missing #2 plug, so I had to make my own pin for Battery power. IL1 is one of the 1uz's dash plugs. You'll splice about everything into this.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/1uz_plugs_labeled_zpsfcf88787.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IL1Plug_zpsf72210c3.jpg


Wiring

Ecu battery power.
M63/F3 (240sx Dash harness) Pin 9 (Red wire) to a fuse block. 20A fuse. From the fuse block connect it to pin 26 on 1uz Plug 2 (my missing plug).

B+ power. (Stuff to make it run)
M63/F3 Pin 39. Grey/Orange wire to fuse block. 20A Fuse. From fuse block to IL1 pin 5. White Wire.

IGNSW. (Say's "Hey! I'm ready to do stuff!)
M63/F3 Pin 1. Black/Red wire to fuse block. 10A Fuse. From fuse block to 1uz plug 1 pin 1.

STA/NSW. (12V+ to allow the starter/ecu the okay to start doing stuff)
You can connect this directly to the NSW/STA wiring that comes from either the ECU plug (don't cut it, it needs to stay connected) or trace the wire around the left side to the starter signal wire.

Connect 1uz Startersignal wire or NSW wire from IL1 to E201/E17 Pin 2, Black/Yellow (manual chassis) or E203/E16 Pin 2, Black/Yellow (auto chassis)

Injector Power
M63/F3 Pin 1, Black/Red wire to fuse block to IL1 pin 13, Black/Red wire.

Tach
M63/F3 Pin 18, Yellow/Red wire to IL1 Pin 18, Black/Yellow wire.

Coolant Temp
M63/F3 Pin 20, Yellow wire to IL1 Pin 14, Yellow/Green wire.

Starter power
Located the starter power wire. It's a thick black wire around the left side of the engine. Connect it to your battery or a power block.

Alternator
(1JZ circle Alt plug works from wiringspecialties.com)
Run a wire from M63/F3 Pin1 to the Alternator plug for IGN power, to start the alternator up.
Connect your factory alternator charge cable.
E202/E19 Pin 1, Yellow wire is the alternator regulator cable.
E202/E19 Pin 5, White/Red wire is used for the Alternator charge light

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/Altwiring_zps3d9dc537.jpg

Fuel Pump
The factory S-Chassis ECU grounds out M63/F3 Pin 27, Black/Pink wire. Use a relay to mimic this effect.
Use M63 Pin 32, Orange wire, to give the relay switched power, which will cause it to ground out. This also makes it safe incase of an accident and your engine shuts off.


Engine and Transmission Mounting

Alot of companies offer engine mounting and transmission adaption components.

http://collinsadapters.com/index.php
I personally use Collins' mounts, but that was all that was available at the time. He offers a complete kit, but I think its an ebay clutch. I pieced together my setup. So cannot comment on the quality.

http://www.xatracing.com/
XAT offers solid products and has the best looking clutch throwout bearing sleeves.

Zilvia member turtle m3th offers products as well. His mounts allow you to use your factory engine mount so it's not completely solid. Probably the best choice for engine mounting.

Transmission
For KA/SR transmissions:

I used a circuit sports transmission mount, 5 speed trans crossmember and used one bolt on each side to mount the crossmember through the guide hole to the rear hole on the chassis. I feel this is fine, since the solid mounts are really whats holding the transmission up anyway.

Your stock clutch line will reach for this setup.

You have to grind the upper part of the transmission to make space for the starter to engage. you will also have to grind the bolts that hold the starter on the 1uz down a little to allow the transmission adapter plate to fit.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20131017_131327539_HDR_zps2a8e2082.jpg

Clutch/Flywheel

For the flywheel purchase one from XAT or brett collins. Whatever. Or have a 3sgte one modified. (flywheel bolt holes extended)

For the clutch: Use a 3sgte Pressure Plate and the respective transmission (KA/SR) Clutch Disk.

7mge ARP Flywheel bolts
RB26 ARP Clutch Plate bolts

The 1uz comes with 2 flex plate spacers. Use the fat one beneath your modified flywheel.

Driveshaft
Driveshaft shop will make you one for about $350. Just get your measurements. They can walk you through it.

Powersteering
The KA24E powersteering line bolts right up.
OR
For powersteering:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-130606ERL Powersteering hose.

To s-chassis steering rack:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991954ERL

To 1UZ powersteering pump (LS400 style) (You'll need to add a couple washers to this, otherwise it'll bottom out in the pump):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-9919DFJERL
This is it threaded in all the way without the washers.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140523_111548554_zpsf98b7092.jpg


90degree elbows that connect to the lines and the aforementioned adapters you need two of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-139106ERL



Headers

Can't help too much. Either have the factory ones modified. Driverside needs to be brought in towards the block some and then wrap around the steering shaft. Passenger side needs the EGR hole blocked and lengthened a little. Or purchase the 2uz Ebay headers- http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-Performance-Stainless-Steel-Headers-2000-2004-Toyota-Tundra-4-7L-V8-/190827359611?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6e326d7b&vxp=mtr, Which still must be modified.

That's really all you need for the basics!

[Fries]

STORY TIME!

So many years ago, prior to joining the military, I built a pretty fun piece of crap vert. I didn't really know what I was doing, it was my first real build (still very budget minded).
SR20DET, ATS diff, knock off wheels, coils/arms, open down pipe and a roll bar.

I screwed up the "wire tuck" and accidently ruined my power windows, so that sucked.
Still the most loud and fun car I've ever owned.
This is a picture next to my buddy Dave's car. His was a purpose built LSx street/race car.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/2011-05-29_20-11-45_460.jpg

Fast forward 2 years, I joined the military and got stationed in Korea.
Came back to Vegas to find an old friend's car for sale on an auction site! Got a great deal on it since it wasn't running.

Had a BLOWN s14 sr20det, which I sold for too little money and some minor goodies.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/2011-07-27_10-53-06_74.jpg
Sold all this crap with the motor, because I wanted to go LSx and it would all be useless for me anyway.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/2011-07-27_10-52-13_896.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/ZENKI/2012-03-20_11-22-34_254.jpg

Packed it up and sent it to upstate New York, the land of snow and 4x4's.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20131110_192746319_zpsf7d2e017.jpg

First order of business was purchasing a propane heater and getting the 1uz-fe onto an engine stand.

I got the 1uz for $300 from a buddy in Kansas on the way from Las Vegas to NY. I was told it only had 80K on it. Since the Idle Air Control (IAC) is bad, I'm guessing a few more, but the heads were pretty clean inside. Who knows.

Swapped bellhousings from my KA transmission, which had a bad 2nd gear to a low mileage SR trans that I bought years ago.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20131110_205644170_zpsbc25ab39.jpg

I spent a TON of time tracing wires on the 1uz and following the Lexus diagrams to be 100% sure of which pin is which and what it does. Kind of useless information now that I've figured out how easy it is to wire up, but I've got a much better understanding of the engine now!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140523_140927240_zps6cbd1ae5.jpg

Installed the engine for the first time. Pretty neat. I wanted to see if I could stretch the factory high pressure line to the 1uz pump. It didn't work :(
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20131218_151816101_zpscfb0e072.jpg

Had Zilvia member turtle m3th modify my headers to fit around my steering shaft. Easily the best money spent. It would have cost me $700 to have headers made here.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140203_114844701_zpsa1419751.jpg

Those headers and engine mounts doe.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140216_095223122_zps7b4fdc41.jpg

Received and installed my fuel lines. Pretty sweet. https://www.belmetric.com/bnjf1278-banjo-eye-fitting-p-4426.html?zenid=od45u37vel9ar95knujtiml355&cPath=13_853_855 Goes here.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140524_093138601_HDR_zps8271b7cc.jpg

This one here. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140524_101033646_HDR_zps1e09cca0.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140524_101033646_HDR_zps1e09cca0.jpg

Needed to replace my upper oil pan gasket. Shit was destroyed and spitting oil out like waterfall. Missed a bolt holding it. Used rubber mallet to break it loose, broke it off instead. Used some sweet ass epoxy to repair it. Holds up fine.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20131217_160744646_zps7f58e594.jpg

Aluminum flywheel and MR2 turbo stage 2 clutch (not pictured: KA24 stage 2 pressure plate of amazingness)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140509_104327638_HDR_zps631ed335.jpg

Removed emissions and some coolant lines with turtle m3ths EGR block off plates.
*Factory engine setup
http://www.carchum.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Lexus-LS400-Engine.jpg

Deleted emissions
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140719_210537930_HDR_zpsfc8225f3.jpg

FINALLY TIME TO START THE ENGINE!

[Fries]

OR IS IT!?

I drained the fuel tank of all the old fuel. Which sucked. S13 fuel tanks are so much more fun to play with. I went down the street and got some fuel. I went to the engine bay to check over my work one last time before chancing an electrical fire, when I started to smell fuel. I thought it was weird... So I looked underneath the car. CRAP!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140526_104818322_HDR_zpsacd3905a.jpg

Cracked fuel tank. After a little Googling, it's a pretty common issue on s14s to crack on the passenger side near the tank support strap.
Strangely there was a S14 fuel tank at a junkyard 15 miles from me. There's almost never 240sx's up here.
Called them and found out that the tank had been in storage for the past 3 years. Someone upstairs was looking out for me. Got it all installed and everything.

While I was removing the stock tank I noticed that my subframe was wiggling around a bit. Thought that was odd. Decided to investigate further.

"Man that bushing looks pretty gnar'd the eff up."
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140608_111641798_zpsdff39662.jpg

Then the center sleeve pulled out without any effort.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140608_112115026_zps720aa347.jpg

Decided to install PBM subframe risers. I've read that you need to do something with the ebrake brackets, but couldnt understand why. Unbolted the bracket from the subframe and neither ebrake cable was smooshed or touching driveshaft.
I did cut and hammer the space for the RUCA, which probably wont be needed since I won't be SLAMMED.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140719_210746661_zps6fb6e4fe.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140719_210807812_zps78326277.jpg

Now its time to start it!
4H0zdXJ5s-Q

So yeah, got an intake pipe made with a nipple for the IAC. IAC is pretty important since you know it, uh, lets the engine idle.

Found out the reason the engine was missing bad was from a frayed dizzy wire.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140623_105038692_HDR_zpsf00a2db9.jpg

Installed my Koyo radiator for a SR. Fits perfect. Just need to trim a little off the stock 1uz coolant lines. Decided to make a video of it running okay.
Engine is revving up and down from the IAC going out.
She's also running a little rich from not having one of the O2 sensors in. I need that Y pipe made :(

5RWZuDsUGWk

This is how she sits now. Bought some knock off wheels from ASpec Wheels.
17x9+20. Running 245/40 Hankook evo's.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140713_114442616_HDR_zpsd26e314e.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140719_211033474_HDR_zps1a9f47af.jpg

Pretty sweet that the shifter fits in the auto trim.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140719_210826375_HDR_zps397f23dd.jpg
Yes, I need the manual trim and radio trim.
Still gotta tuck some of the wires, install intake pipe again, install driveshaft (when it gets here) and mount tires.
I'll then drive it until I get pulled over for being too awesome. I'll get a Y pipe made after that.

Pretty easy swap, I could probably do another one if I had all the parts over the course of a week.

I'll update again soon.

[ZenkiDeven19]

Very good sir!

[jr_ss]

Looks good so far dude! I think this would be a good swap for an S13.

[Coda47]

Awesome write up!!

[Fries]

Well FUARK

Received my driveshaft today.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140726_103316988_zps587794b7.jpg

Installed dat betch. Bled the clutch, filled the transmission with fluid, bled the powersteering and got my tires installed. FINALLY TIME FOR THE FIRST DRIVE.

Except....

I can shift gears, but theres nothing going to the rear wheels. I just dont feel a solid engagement or something. The wheels wont rotate while its on jackstands.

FUARK. I have NO idea. My only guess is the input shaft is split in half, but I swapped bellhousings so I feel like thats something I would have noticed.

[shoguner]

I broke an input shaft on my 350z trans from a faulty spacer plate for a triple plate clutch.
I think that could be your problem. If your input shaft isn't 100% perfect you can stress it and cause it to snap, since it's hardened it won't bend.

Also, this build thread is rad.
Also, this build thread would be radder with working pictures! :)

Edit - Just kidding. My work has blocked photobucket..... Time to kick the IT persons ass.

[DrftKingIII]

Wait.....

Didn't realize you were still alive.

[Fries]

Still alive building jank cars. In new York for now, but maybe in the Midwest again next year.

[DrftKingIII]

Come have a slumber party.

[Fries]

Well I took the transmission off. I didnt have the retainer clip that connects the fork onto the pivot ball, so I put one of those on. The pressure plate was tight, however I removed it to double check everything. There was some excess grease being flung around from installation. So I cleaned that all up with brake cleaner. Reinstalled the clutch.

Reinstalling the trans with the engine in kinda blows balls. I got it in, but it didnt feel seated correctly. Didnt pop all the way on, had to use the bellhousing bolts to seat it completely against the adapter plate.

Upon reinstalation of the other little bits, I attempted to start it. Now it'll start, but I cant get power to the wheels regardless of the clutch being pressed or not. The pedal is plenty stiff, so I doubt it's air in the lines.

I have no idea whats going on.

Shouldnt I technically not even need the clutch to put it in gear since its on jack stands?
I should be able to put it in 1st and start it right?

I can shift through all the gears without using the clutch, no grinds, nothing.

My guess for issues?
Most likely: Broken transmission input shaft. But I'm not really sure. It could be something very simple.

[accoupe]

What about the shims you mentioned behind the flex plate? I wouldn't think that would make a big enough difference to keep the input shaft from engaging the clutch disc properly but just thinking out loud.

[accoupe]

Double post sorry

[Fries]

Thats my thinking. I'll need to pull the trans again. However I have back to back exercises for the Army this next month. It'll be difficult to make time to do it.

[Fries]

New information I didnt know. You need the chamfer the flywheel like 1mm on the engine side if youre using a 3sgte flywheel. This is because the 3sgte starter engages from the otherside. Not a huge deal, but sometimes the starter will be unable to engage.

Also. Here's the maiden voyage. Open headers. Wife didn't flip the phone so its a narrow video.

3PFXqIDdJ3A

N66x86QSwNU

[Unbound Yuurei]

That sounds freaken amazing.

[turtle m3th]

Good schnitzel! You'll feel that torque even more once you've got an exhaust on that beast. What size are you planning to run?

[Fries]

Probably 3inch. Back pressure should be fine. NA 2.0 wants like what 2.25-2.5? So the 4.0 should be happy with a 3"?

Just pulled the motor today. Gonna pretty up the wiring this winter and clean up the engine. Also time to modify the flywheel and replace the starter. Good times.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20141019_150619417_zpsee152efd.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20141019_151530010_zps0db6786a.jpg

[turtle m3th]

I'd stay in the 2.5" range. Most of the info I've seen on lextreme makes this seem like the magic number.

[kaosthagreat]

It'll probably flow fine with 2.5 but the 3in will breath that much better. The 1uz is moving a lot of air even in stock trim.

[rock_7]

Hey Fries, I've been following a lot of the write up and information you've been posting for this V8 swap and it's extremely helpful. I wanted to say thank you for that. I just had a question about the B+ Power wire.

"Quote: Fries"
B+ power. (Stuff to make it run)
M63/F3 Pin 39. Grey/Orange wire to*fuse*block. 20A Fuse. From*fuse*block*to IL1 pin 5. White Wire."End Quote"

M63/F3 Pin 39 is the [AT Models Only] Throttle Position Switch Fused Ignition Power. Is this correct? Also which plug has this wire on an S13. I was planning on routing it with the Main Ignition wire but I have a feeling I shouldn't.

Also, I have a 1990 1UZ-FE; is your B+ wire the same as my +B/+B1 wires.

I really appreciate any help. Thank you.

[Fries]

99% sure that 1990-1991 used the same pinout. If you dont have the 3 yellow plugs for the ECU then you should have the same as me.

Here's a list of diagrams for you:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0WE7dVhvJd_STE2UTdiQWpjWWs&usp=sharing&tid=0B0WE7dVhvJd_MGswNmc4Q0VxOUk


Here's my childish drawing of how to set up the Ignition relay for +B power. You can use an aftermarket relay for this. I did.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IgnitionRelay_zps045471ba.jpg

The official diagram for how the LS400 uses the ignition relay:
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd108/wilbo666/m-relwiring.png

PM me if you have more questions. I'll probably post the answer in the build so that more people have access to questions they may have.

[solo_ryder]

Nice build so far, what wheels are those?

[rock_7]

Thanks for the info Fries, I appreciate the help. I will go ahead and install a relay. If I have further questions I'll let you know!

[Fries]

Nice build so far, what wheels are those?

JNC 001's. Cheap knock off wheels. I think I got them for $500 shipped though. 17x9+20 I'm running 245/40/17s. I'd like to put 255s on em, but I dont think the transmission would enjoy the grip+torque for launches and drifting.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m0wbcgx8VP4aXy0ezkrn9cA.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JNC001-CCW-V-2-17X9-20-5x100-5X114-3-FLAT-BLACK-MACHINE-LIP-531-AV-12-TSX-RSX-/171299407731?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item27e23d8773&vxp=mtr

[tiggertsi]

hey Fries, i've been following your build and a few other 1uz builds. But your build thread though has really made me contemplate doing the 1uz swap myself and frankly I like your attitude about it. and I was wondering, if you don't mind answering, about how much total just for the swap do you think you have spent so far? I know you stated above that it shouldn't cost more than 3200 excluding the y pipe. But i was just curious as to what you think you've spent already. And also is there anything you've spent money on doing the swap that you've realized later was unnecessary or maybe you could have done for less? Or hell for that matter what about the opposite; is there an area(s) maybe on your swap so far that you should have spent more money on?

[Alan_405]

Subscribed ;)

[Fries]

hey Fries, i've been following your build and a few other 1uz builds. But your build thread though has really made me contemplate doing the 1uz swap myself and frankly I like your attitude about it. and I was wondering, if you don't mind answering, about how much total just for the swap do you think you have spent so far? I know you stated above that it shouldn't cost more than 3200 excluding the y pipe. But i was just curious as to what you think you've spent already. And also is there anything you've spent money on doing the swap that you've realized later was unnecessary or maybe you could have done for less? Or hell for that matter what about the opposite; is there an area(s) maybe on your swap so far that you should have spent more money on?

Sure man. Everyone's costs will be a little different. I've been playing with 240s for a while so I had a few spare parts that made it cheaper some places.

Anyway, cost breakdown.
U-Pull-It:
Engine/harness/ecu/KA transmission: $450
Trans Adapter/pilot bushing adapter/Engine mounts:$650ish
Headers:$300
Flywheel:$250
Flywheel modification: $100
Clutch:$400
Driveshaft: $500ish
Intake: $80
Wiring/Wiring tools:$100
Fastners/MISC:$100
Fluids: $150

So about 3 grand-ish. Its not bad man. A Sr is what $2500? Then you gotta buy, clutch, FMIC, Intake, Usually an exhaust, misc upgrades etc. Youre looking at more cost for less power. But turbo brah!

Things I wish I did... Go thru Xcessive MFG for your flywheel and have it modified for the 1uz starter. Replace starter prior to installation.

If you can afford it, I'd install a 350z transmission. The extra strength will be worth it. Im afraid of running wider than 245/40 tires on the back, because torque + traction = sheared gearset.

Also... email wiring specialties to get them to make a premade harness for the 1uz :) Its not horrible to wire, just a pain in the butt. I wouldnt get a cheap clutch. I ended up having to get a cheap disk when I installed my ACT disk wrong. The visual difference, just goes to show the quality of a solid clutch... which you will want when you're clutch kickin' and shit.

IDK man. I did it pretty basic on purpose. You'll have fun. Its a pretty easy to engine. (Minus taking the intake manifold off. That thing sucks ass)

[tiggertsi]

IDK man. I did it pretty basic on purpose. You'll have fun. Its a pretty easy to engine. (Minus taking the intake manifold off. That thing sucks ass)

i appreciate the reply man. it'll give me some idea on how to approach doing this myself and it's nice to have a cost list (even if it is not exact) to set up a budget and plan accordingly. I figure $500 - $1000 on top of what you said would be a safe target budget. Like I said I am very interested in doing this swap for exactly the reasons you listed. And i like your 1uz build the best so far because you did keep it basic.

[NismoZRS]

Hey Fries, great build/info thread, ive used it a lot so far (almost copying you infact).. I'm in the garage right now doing a 1uz/KA on my s13 and I have a couple questions for you:

What did you use to adapt your pilot bushing? (and do you know the O.D. of the adapter?)

Does the 3sgte flywheel not being chamfered cause an issue with the 1uz starter?

Did you have to lengthen the throwout bearing sleeve, like weld two together?

[Fries]

Hey Fries, great build/info thread, ive used it a lot so far (almost copying you infact).. I'm in the garage right now doing a 1uz/KA on my s13 and I have a couple questions for you:

What did you use to adapt your pilot bushing? (and do you know the O.D. of the adapter?)

Does the 3sgte flywheel not being chamfered cause an issue with the 1uz starter?

Did you have to lengthen the throwout bearing sleeve, like weld two together?

Pilot Bearing Adapter: http://collinsadapters.com/index.php/adaption-components/pilot-bearing-adapter.html

Flywheel: I'd say yes. Within 2 months the starter went out. Most people modify the starter's teeth. I have no knowledge on that though. I sent the flywheel for mod because one and done.

Throwoutbearing: http://collinsadapters.com/index.php/adaption-components/clutch-release-bearing-adapter.html is the one I used. However. Its not a very pretty piece...

XAT's: http://www.xatracing.com/uztokatrthou.html looks like a much higher quality piece annnnnd $25 cheaper.

[Fries]

Did alot of work and by a lot, I mean some minor time consuming wiring. I cleaned up my Chassis (F3) to fuse/relay portion of the harness. It was a tangled mess that wasnt long enough to properly tuck up and was just bouncing around and being stupid. However, the intial plan WAS to redo it and I just threw it together to make sure I could get the car to run correctly.

Here's before.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150207_200214861_zps598eecfc.jpg

This is me laying the wires out and labeling everything. I not going to say it took special favors to have the Mrs allow me to do this on the kitchen table... but stuff happened.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150208_184347760_HDR_zps18736735.jpg

Chew, preworkout, snowboarding gear... hell all I need now is a picture of my beard and you'd all be sure I was a man and not a girly zenki owner.

Anyway. Chopped up some sheetmetal. Screwed some stuff in. This is the result.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150215_174424351_zps57b809db.jpg

Is it the cleanest thing in the world? Nah, but its better than before. Suck it.

Got some lines from enjuku to replace my bent hardline on the steering rack.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150217_145607512_zps830082f4.jpg

Currently working on the engine bay fuse box and lower harness. Pictures when more is completed.

Due to possible job taking me away from home for a while, I'm not focusing on making the engine pretty right now. I'll replace intake gaskets and reinstall the motor. Gotta get Y pipe made, purchase exhaust, O2 sensor for left side annnnnd 245/40s for the rear. Maybe 225s, so I dont have to roll the rear fenders + wont be so worried about the transmission.

http://static.fjcdn.com/large/pictures/2c/2f/2c2faf_4480774.jpg

[JZ78]

Hmmmm.... Very interesting.

sent from my mind

[shoguner]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150215_174424351_zps57b809db.jpg

Is it the cleanest thing in the world? Nah, but its better than before. Suck it.

Got some lines from enjuku to replace my bent hardline on the steering rack.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20150217_145607512_zps830082f4.jpg


Looks great man!
Also, I did not know those lines existed haha. I will need to get those.

[Fries]

Yeah they're great. Except I backed my effin transmission up against it when reinstalling the engine and broke one. Sweet.

[NismoZRS]

How long did it take for your collins parts to reach your door after you ordered them?

[Fries]

A month or so I believe. I ordered thru Enjuku, emailed them after 2+ weeks with no tracking number then heard from collins.

[NismoZRS]

Ok, its been like 2 weeks for me and I haven't heard anything from them.. I just want to know if its coming/working on it or not; its literally all I'm waiting on now.. They did process my money though

Can you do me a huge favor and tell me how thick the plate is???

[badass8]

I thought I subscribed to your thread dammit!

Wiring looks good! And I think I'll have to do that for my steering rack lines as well. Mine are ugly and bent as well.

[Fries]

Well, I left for a job overseas. Asked the wife and a friend to put the car in a storage unit... Oil pan too low + bad ramp placement = NAILED oil pan and blew the motor and airbags...

Hard thing to wake up to...

Now to decide on replacing the 1uz or going LSx.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG951778_zps3odvk6qm.jpg

[JZ78]

Sorry to hear.... The lsx is pretty tempting though.

sent from my mind

[shoguner]

Well, I left for a job overseas. Asked the wife and a friend to put the car in a storage unit... Oil pan too low + bad ramp placement = NAILED oil pan and blew the motor and airbags...

Hard thing to wake up to...

Now to decide on replacing the 1uz or going LSx.
IMG

Wait what?! How did they blow an engine from just putting it in the storage?

Did they leave it running for like, 4 hours after 0 oil?
I just can't figure how they fucked it up this bad. lol.

Also...... Go ls.

[Fries]

Vehicle is forsale.


With college and moving to a location with absolutely no drifting nearby (San Angelo, TX) I've decided to purchase something reliable, but just as fun.


Hello little girl.


http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/qrk5001/IMG_6837.jpg

[Issa__40__]

how much would you charge me to help me install and get my swap running? i have a 1uz using a ka24de trans collins full swap kit mounts driveshaft etc i need help with the harness