Apexi AFC stolen, need tuning advice!

[BlackLabel24]

Hey everyone,

So I'm in a bit of a tricky situation. A few days ago someone broke into my car and stole my Apexi AFC Neo and harness. Now the car is pretty much un-driveable, and the nearest SR tuning shop is a city away.

So the way I see it, I can either buy another Apexi AFC, or go with an RS Enthalpy tune. I don't have the money for something like a PowerFC or anything in that price range.

If I went with the AFC then I'd have to buy some tools to remove the bumper so it can get on a flatbed tow truck and get it to a shop (I tried earlier and it was to low with the bumper, and I don't have any tools with me). I bought the car with the AFC in it, so its always been tuned with it. Of course my concern is that it might get stolen again, so I am hesitant on buying another. This would also be more costly than the Enthalpy tune, as I'd need to buy a AFC, boomslang harness, wiring installation, and tuning.

My other option is Enthalpy. I've heard a lot of good things about this tune. From what I understand I just need to take out the ECU and send it to them, and simply plug it back in and I'm good to go. If someone could send me a link on how to safely take the ECU out that would be great.

In terms of my future goals, I'd eventually upgrade the turbo, but not for another few years.

Here are my engine mods (car is 95 240sx)
- 98 SR20DET
- stock T28
- stock injectors
- Z32 MAF
- NGK Iridium Plugs
- FMIC & hot and cold pipes
- Cold air intake
- Recirculated BOV
- Catback exhaust system
- AF and boost gauge

Just to note, my car ran pretty well with the AFC and only had some minor problems. The idle was very inconsistent (despite recirculating the bov, checking the idle control valve, replacing maf). Occasionally it would decide to idle low and run very lean.


So if you guys could give me your advice it would be greatly appreciated! Basically I need to decide between the AFC or Enthalpy (or anything else you guys can think of).

[fliprayzin240sx]

Disconnect the battery, go to the passenger side kick panel, find the ECU, 10mm wrench to unbolt it and be done.

If you're saving money, just take the damn Z32 MAF off and put a stock one on. Thats pretty much the only reason you're using the SAFC for.

[FaLKoN240]

Like Ray said, nothing about your setup aside from the Z32 maf constitutes the need for an SAFC.

[BlackLabel24]

Like Ray said, nothing about your setup aside from the Z32 maf constitutes the need for an SAFC.

That makes sense. However the previous owner installed this: http://www.frsport.com/GReddy-11920201-Air-Intake-Suction-Kit-S14-S15-SR20DET-running-Z32-MAF_p_1469.html

So in addition to a SR maf, what other parts would I need to get it running?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Nothing. You have a stock set up with some bolt ons. The only reason you need the SAFC is to make a voltage correction for the Z32 MAF. Slap the stock MAF back on it (would more than likely require rewiring the stock plug back on if it has been cut off off) and you'd have to put the wires used for the SAFC back to stock, MAF wire would need to be spliced back together.

[zurud]

Z32 maf and stock injectors is really asking for trouble.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Z32 maf and stock injectors is really asking for trouble.

Care to elaborate before I call you a dumbass? :wan:

[5280VertDET]

Z32 maf and stock injectors is really asking for trouble.

Care to elaborate before I call you a dumbass? :wan:

:drama: :l101:

[brndck]

Switch back to stock maf, run stock ecu. Done and done.

[BlackLabel24]

Nothing. You have a stock set up with some bolt ons. The only reason you need the SAFC is to make a voltage correction for the Z32 MAF. Slap the stock MAF back on it (would more than likely require rewiring the stock plug back on if it has been cut off off) and you'd have to put the wires used for the SAFC back to stock, MAF wire would need to be spliced back together.

Ok, so I'm guessing the Z32 MAF and the stock SR MAF require different plugs?
If thats the case, would I need to buy this? http://www.wiringspecialties.com/sr20dets14.html

I bought the car with the Z32 so I do not have any of the original parts...

So if I got that kit, I could take off the Z32 plug, splice the wires into the SR plug, hook it up to an SR MAF and thats it?
I'm not quite sure how to deal with the SAFC wiring... I'l certainly ask someone more experienced to do this for me.


EDIT: Should the car be able to idle with the Z32 MAF unplugged? I just tried this and it did not work.

[silviasandbeer]

Care to elaborate before I call you a dumbass? :wan:

new sig.....

[Trinidrift3]

Ok, so I'm guessing the Z32 MAF and the stock SR MAF require different plugs?
If thats the case, would I need to buy this? http://www.wiringspecialties.com/sr20dets14.html

I bought the car with the Z32 so I do not have any of the original parts...

So if I got that kit, I could take off the Z32 plug, splice the wires into the SR plug, hook it up to an SR MAF and thats it?
I'm not quite sure how to deal with the SAFC wiring... I'l certainly ask someone more experienced to do this for me.


EDIT: Should the car be able to idle with the Z32 MAF unplugged? I just tried this and it did not work.
no it shouldn't idle unplugged.

you dont need a kit. buy a stock maf. with the stock plug on it and some wire off it. wire it to the wires that were on the z32 maf. that's all man, post a pic of the current z32 maf setup

[fliprayzin240sx]

Double check the MAF connector, maybe the previous owner left the stock plug still connected. When I did my Z-MAF, I left the stock plug on just in case.

[dbeiler]

Nissan engines will usually idle with the MAF disconnected. In this case, the engine ECU uses a default fuel injection value which is high enough to run a little over 2000 rpm. So the engine will run rich and rough at idle, run smooth around 2000 rpm, and stall out (like it's hitting rev limiter) around 2500 rpm. Back on topic: Go to junkyard or zilvia marketplace, pick up an SR20 MAF w/ a wire pigtail, and swap out your Z32 MAF.

[BlackLabel24]

Nissan engines will usually idle with the MAF disconnected. In this case, the engine ECU uses a default fuel injection value which is high enough to run a little over 2000 rpm. So the engine will run rich and rough at idle, run smooth around 2000 rpm, and stall out (like it's hitting rev limiter) around 2500 rpm. Back on topic: Go to junkyard or zilvia marketplace, pick up an SR20 MAF w/ a wire pigtail, and swap out your Z32 MAF.

Yes thats what I heard. The engine won't start unless my foot is pretty pushed down, and it cannot idle by itself (just stalls). The only way it will run is if I hold my foot down (at about 1000 rpm or above). If I take it off then it stalls, no matter what speed I am going.
I only drove it around the block once, and it ran extremely rich the entire time, but I'm pretty sure it did go above 2500rpm... not sure though. The power delivery basically felt like a roller coaster - if I consistently held the pedal down maybe one third of the way it would slowly go along and the suddenly get a big burst of power. The sound is also 'lumpy' sort of like the sound of upgraded cams.

Could this weird behaviour have something to do with the SAFC wiring?

[pacotaco345]

If your safc and jumper harness got stolen then there's probably some wires near the ecu that got ripped off or damaged. For one your maf input and output are no longer connected, your tps sensor wire could be ripped along with some power and ground wires. So in short, even though you have a z maf it won't make a difference in the way it runs now since your maf signal wire is open-ended.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Yes thats what I heard. The engine won't start unless my foot is pretty pushed down, and it cannot idle by itself (just stalls). The only way it will run is if I hold my foot down (at about 1000 rpm or above). If I take it off then it stalls, no matter what speed I am going.
I only drove it around the block once, and it ran extremely rich the entire time, but I'm pretty sure it did go above 2500rpm... not sure though. The power delivery basically felt like a roller coaster - if I consistently held the pedal down maybe one third of the way it would slowly go along and the suddenly get a big burst of power. The sound is also 'lumpy' sort of like the sound of upgraded cams.

Could this weird behaviour have something to do with the SAFC wiring?

You didnt go over 2500 rpm. ECU is in limp mode since its not seeing the whatever MAF you have now (Z or stock), until you fix the MAF wire that has to be cut to run the SAFC. Stop typing in here and start fixing your shit, its not gonna fix itself.

[BlackLabel24]

You didnt go over 2500 rpm. ECU is in limp mode since its not seeing the whatever MAF you have now (Z or stock), until you fix the MAF wire that has to be cut to run the SAFC. Stop typing in here and start fixing your shit, its not gonna fix itself.

Yup I'm waiting to hear back from a local specialist. Just wondering why it wouldn't idle properly, thanks for your help :)

[FaLKoN240]

I got a VAFC if you wanna buy it. :P