Front tension rod

[Mecha_Trueno]

I'm going to be replacing the front tension rods soon and just have a quick question. (It’s actually only the bushings that are knackered but thought I might as well change the whole arm)

I've read a few guides which advise that you should not tighten/torque the bolts until you put the tyres back on and lower the car to the ground or you will bust up the bushings. Has anyone ever had this problem? I just think it’ll be a bit difficult to tighten the bolts without the clearance for some leverage.

[Kaifd3s]

I tightened everything and just jacked up the hub that was attached to the corresponding tension rod.

[Sindel713]

Just put in on ramps then finish tightening.

[Croustibat]

Problem is, unless you changed for an oem rubber bushing, you will end up with binding problems. PU bushings are fine as long as the arm only moves around an axis perpendicular to the bushing. Considering suspension arms on S chassis, only the rear lower arm bushings move like that.

The "tighten in on the ground" is the way to go if you want to limit binding. The easiest is to use a lift with ramps, if you can't you could always use ramps.

And the best way is to go rose/heim joint.

[Sleepy_Steve]

Problem is, unless you changed for an oem rubber bushing, you will end up with binding problems. PU bushings are fine as long as the arm only moves around an axis perpendicular to the bushing. Considering suspension arms on S chassis, only the rear lower arm bushings move like that.

The "tighten in on the ground" is the way to go if you want to limit binding. The easiest is to use a lift with ramps, if you can't you could always use ramps.

And the best way is to go rose/heim joint.

Very much this!

Sway bars can also be an acceptable use of polyurethane on our cars. So only 8 bushings total for PU.