KA is running way rich

[augimatic]

need a little help here guys.

What I know is that it's not getting enough air into the motor and so it's running way RICH! At idle you can smell the fuel from the tail pipe. At low RPM it dies and then I can't get it started for a long time, I have to sit there and crank on it forever then it'll start but runs crapy for a while with black smoke coming out the rear.

I flushed the coolant, oil changed it and gave it new plugs and a new air fliter.

I tried the starting fluid in the intake and carb cleaner in the air intake control valve and nothing.

Anyone have any ideas? Someone thinks thermostate cause I'm in Tucson, AZ. the car maybe really hot but I don't see why that would cause it to run rich.

One thing, I may be not be getting compression either but I'm not sure cause I know that nissan has a kill switch if the motor doesn't have enough oil it'll die which it does at low RPM I have to keep it at 1000 RPM when I'm at a complete stop to stop it from stalling.

[LigouriRd]

Sounds like a problem with your (primary) oxygen sensor. Mine did the same thing about two years back. It started when the car was fully warmed up, at a stop light the engine would just drop revs and die. Shortly after it started doing this all the time. The shop I took it to told me it was running way to rich to idle. They replaced the MAF and the O2, later I put the old MAF back on and it ran fine. So I figure it was the O2. Try calling around to a few oil change places, a lot of em have scan tools. They will be able to diagnose the problem much cheaper than a dealer or sumthin.

[deviousKA]

I have run across this exact problem a few times with my cars and others (ka24e). With mine, I had exact same symptoms (sometimes i couldnt even get it to start i ran so rich). With all of them i have fixed, it has been the connection to the cold warm up solenoid (or fast idle valve). Pull of the wiring plugs to your injectors, and all similar connections on the engine (on ka24e the warm up solenoid is near the injectors, its under the primary egr control valve). If you see any corrosion on these connections, cleaning them will probably solve your problem.

to clean them really good use sulfuric acid and a brush, then neutralize/rinse them with baking soda and water mix. You could also try some aerosol electric cleaner of some sort but use a brush as well.

[240-porkchop-sx]

when you get your car running, can you rev it over 2500rpm? If not it's the MAF, apparently the ecu has a safety feature that when the maf fails the car will not run higher then 2500. I forgot to plug the maf back in when i cleaned mine, and all i had was black smoke puring from my exhaust.
You can give that a try if you haven't already.

good luck

[idlafie]

need a little help here guys.

What I know is that it's not getting enough air into the motor and so it's running way RICH! At idle you can smell the fuel from the tail pipe. At low RPM it dies and then I can't get it started for a long time, I have to sit there and crank on it forever then it'll start but runs crapy for a while with black smoke coming out the rear.

I flushed the coolant, oil changed it and gave it new plugs and a new air fliter.

I tried the starting fluid in the intake and carb cleaner in the air intake control valve and nothing.

Anyone have any ideas? Someone thinks thermostate cause I'm in Tucson, AZ. the car maybe really hot but I don't see why that would cause it to run rich.

One thing, I may be not be getting compression either but I'm not sure cause I know that nissan has a kill switch if the motor doesn't have enough oil it'll die which it does at low RPM I have to keep it at 1000 RPM when I'm at a complete stop to stop it from stalling.

If your 240 is running extremely rich, you might want to check your ECU first before you attempt any repairs. Put your ECU into Diagnostic Mode...see www.240sx.org FAQ page for instructions. Once you put your ECU into Diagnostic Mode, then check to see what type of Diagnostic Trouble Codes your car is kicking out.

Once you pull the Diagnostic Trouble Codes, then pop the hood of your car & try to figure out what may be causing your problem. Areas to check are.
1). Fuel Regulator....sufficient / not enough / too much vacuum going to the Fuel Regulator??
2). Fuel Injectors...is one or more leaking??
3). Engine Cooltant Temperature Sensor - a faulty ECTS or bad wire leading to your ECTS may have your ECU thinking your engine is still cold & causing the extra fuel to be dumped in your intake manifold.
4). Idle & Timing...check your Idle & Timing - make sure they are set properly
5). Oxygen sensor - test it thru the ECU..The Check Engine Light .should flash 5 times or more in a 10 second period when the ECU/O2 Sensors are placed into Diagnostic mode.
Check these items out & let us know what your results are..
ID
'95 SE

[BlackS14]

I second chekcing to see if any of your injectors are leaking...simply pull the fuel rail (with out physicaly removing any injectors from said rail) and turn the ke on pressurizing the system....if you have a leak...you'll soon know about it.

Be sure to try that as well as chekcing the ecu for codes...I just went thru this whole debacle and it wasn't fun to say the least.

-Bill