Weak brakes after swap

[xcom90]

So i need ideas…… i changed out and replaced all brakes and rotors on the 240. The dust boot on my rear calipers are all twisted and looks like crap… one side looks like the rubber dust boot is about to fall out. Before i went 5 lug even before i had a brake booster i could ripp the ebrake and lock up my rears. Now i pull the ebrake and i don’t even feel it really tugging the car. I can slam the brake pedal and it doesn’t lock up the brakes at all. The rear brake calipers are twist in pistons and the fronts are press in pistons. My only thing that i can think off is maybe it needs to be bled again…… which idk why side there is no leaks that i can see and i didn’t open up the system to change brakes and rotors. Or maybe since the brake booster is from a 87 sentra the rod from the brake booster needs to be adjusted out so it pushs on the bmc more…( pedal travel may be different on the sentra than the 240sx)…. Weight between the two cars im ruleing out bc im completely gutted so im prolly the same weight as the sentra or close enough. But i still should be able to chuck the brakes …… im fine w.o having a e brake if it came down to it but im not fine with not be able to lock up the brakes if i need too. Any ideas.???

Btw my car is a s13 vh45 swap with a 87 sentra brake booster.

[Sileighty_85]

make sure brake bleeder valves are faceing up.

[xcom90]

Thanks for the input! they are facing up. I adjusted the rod yesterday and since i have new brakes all around i rode the brakes for a while to get the film off of the rotors and pads. worked alil better. also i didnt have my bb check valve in the vac line. so know i have it in there and the brake booster is doing its job. So im going to completely bled the system and see were that leads me.

[jr_ss]

You don't want to lock up your brakes period for one. You lose all control when that happens, that's the idea behind ABS.

Second, did you bleed in the correct order? Driver's rear is farthest from the BMC, then passenger rear, passenger front and finally driver's.

The Ebrake is an adjustment. There should be one at the Ebrake lever in the car. If you look on the underside of the lever, there should be a screw or bolt that can be tightened or loosened, adjust it until you have an Ebrake.

[xcom90]

This is for my drift car. (no abs) yes and know of the ebrake adjustments. I barely turned them in compared to last year when it locked them up perfectly fine. I am going to bleed it really well today and see where that gets me. Just like last year i should be able to lock up all of my brakes when i slammed the foot pedal. Right now all it does is kinda slow dwn... but not with anywhere near as much force. So mission is to get the brake response that i had last year. first with trying to bleed the system totally and if that isnt it then ill figure out my next step.

[jr_ss]

Bleeding the brakes isn't going to fix your mechanical Ebrake, just so you know.

Rebleed in the order I stated. You may also want to look for leaks or kinked lines as that will cause issues as well.

[xcom90]

ya thanks. im going to bleed it here over the weekend.. and the just my e-brake.

[The Saint]

What kind of brake fluid did you put in the system? Dot 3 and Dot 4 won't mix and can jack up your master cylinder.

[Nonsense]

When you refer to "brakes"
do you mean calipers?

If you saying your dust boots in your rear calipers and the pistons/components are all jacked up, then thats probably why you can pull the e-brake as good as you did before.

they probably need a rebuild, or just but new calipers.