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jarred3636
04-07-2014, 01:00 AM
Alright so I searched all over and I couldn't find anything..if anyone knows of a link that can point me in the right direction that'd be awesome. Anyways! I have a s14 with an s13 sr. I was replacing my clutch today when we ran into a little problem. We had to rotate the transmission almost 45 to 180 degrees to get it out. Now when we try to bolt the tranny back up, we can't get the right angle to put it in. Does anyone have ANY advice or tips as to how to put the tranny back in :/

bmxer882x
04-07-2014, 01:06 AM
Drop the 4 bolts that hold the front subframe, its how i've always had to do it. Make sure to use a jack on the subframe take off the 4 nuts and then slowly lower the jack, it will give you an extra 2-3 inches to slide the input shaft in the engine.
Goodluck

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 01:08 AM
Drop the 4 bolts that hold the front subframe, its how i've always had to do it. Make sure to use a jack on the subframe take off the 4 nuts and then slowly lower the jack, it will give you an extra 2-3 inches to slide the input shaft in the engine.
Goodluck

I appreciate the quick response! I'll definitely give this a shot tomorrow. Took all day to finally give up lol I'll post an update tomorrow

bmxer882x
04-07-2014, 01:13 AM
no problem, its a 17mm nut iirc, i use a half inch drive impact with a extension and a deep well. im subbed now so ill try to help if you have any other issues.

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 01:19 AM
Okay cool sounds good! Thanks again!

murffy
04-07-2014, 01:27 AM
unbolt the exhaust, that should allow you to get enough angle to get the transmission in without having to turn it so much, unbolt the exhaust from the elbow/down pipe, three easy bolts

fliprayzin240sx
04-07-2014, 04:57 AM
I've always just loosened the engine mount nut off the crossmember, to engine some tilt. The lowering the crossmember would work too.

jr_ss
04-07-2014, 05:22 AM
Jack under crank pulley snout to get some angle in the engine. Just light pressure, nothing crazy.

blkvrtswp
04-07-2014, 07:45 AM
Floor jack with a 2x4 under the oil pan front lip, not much but it gives you 1-2 inches of tilt that help. I've never had to loosen mount or cross member bolts.

Also rotate the trans on install until the big flat part top of the bell housing clears. It can be real tough if you try to keep it oriented like it bolts up.

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 03:14 PM
Okay so we dropped the engine a bit and was able to line the tranny up perfectly. Now the input shaft won't go into the splines. We keep twisting and shaking it hoping it'll just pop right in but nothing.

bmxer882x
04-07-2014, 03:45 PM
my only suggestion is to make sure the transmission is straight. I use a jack under the shifter and once the input shaft is started just wiggle and push. With 2 people i never have a problem.

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 04:19 PM
my only suggestion is to make sure the transmission is straight. I use a jack under the shifter and once the input shaft is started just wiggle and push. With 2 people i never have a problem.

Does the tranny have to be in gear?? Cause every time we push and wiggle, the input shaft just stays in place.

TheRealSy90
04-07-2014, 04:25 PM
Make sure you use an alignment tool on the clutch.

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 04:28 PM
Make sure you use an alignment tool on the clutch.

We double checked with the tool and it's still lined up. I don't know why we are having such a hard time with this

bmxer882x
04-07-2014, 04:40 PM
makes no difference if its in gear or not. i always remove the shifter so its left in whatever gear its in when i slide the shifter out. sounds like you need to just keep trying your just trying to get the 2 shafts to slide on each other. My first 240 clutch job was hell, now its a 2 hour job.

jarred3636
04-07-2014, 05:45 PM
makes no difference if its in gear or not. i always remove the shifter so its left in whatever gear its in when i slide the shifter out. sounds like you need to just keep trying your just trying to get the 2 shafts to slide on each other. My first 240 clutch job was hell, now its a 2 hour job.

This is how close we are. Here's a picture of the input shaft.

jr_ss
04-07-2014, 06:09 PM
Keep working it. Use the tail shaft end of the trans to help manipulate it. It can be a bit of a PITA.

jarred3636
04-08-2014, 01:11 AM
Everything is bolted up and ready to go! Well it's been, had to throw on my LCA's while it was up :) Thanks everyone for the help!!

jarred3636
04-08-2014, 05:06 PM
I'm having the same issue as before :( so I replaced my clutch because I thought it was the source of my problem. Basically what happens is, everything shifts fine it's just when I'm in gear, when I press on the gas pedal it seems like the clutch is barely engaging. If I had it in third and pressed the gas pedal all the way, the car will barely move but the engine would rev loudly. I've tried bleeding and adjusting the clutch pedal but no luck

fliprayzin240sx
04-08-2014, 06:46 PM
What clutch are you using? Does it feel like its riding the clutch? TOB/carrier might be too tall if adjusting the clutch engagement wouldnt fix it.

jarred3636
04-08-2014, 06:51 PM
What clutch are you using? Does it feel like its riding the clutch? TOB/carrier might be too tall if adjusting the clutch engagement wouldnt fix it.

I just installed the Exedy stage 1 kit and I used the TOB that was provided. I'm not sure if it'd be the TOB because the car was working fine up until the problem I stated occurre. That's when I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, both pilot and TOB and yet the problem still occurs.

Edit: And yes it feels like it's riding it and then engages then rides.

fliprayzin240sx
04-08-2014, 06:58 PM
Did you break in the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel? Do you feel where the clutch is engaging/disengaging on the pedal? Do you still have the clutch dampener loop?

jarred3636
04-08-2014, 07:06 PM
Did you break in the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel? Do you feel where the clutch is engaging/disengaging on the pedal? Do you still have the clutch dampener loop?

I haven't broken in the clutch yet but there is no difference from before installation. It rides as if I never changed the clutch.

No I did not get the flywheel resurface (hopefully my trust in my buddy doesn't fail me). He is a mechanic who owns an s13 and said that the flywheel was in good shape and didn't need to be resurfaced.

My foot is entirely off the clutch when it rides it. It's all the way in gear, foot off the pedal when it suddenly lets go then catches again.

Yes I still have it. I didn't realize until today. I've been searching for a few hours now and found that I may have been bleeding it improperly. I have been bleeding it from the slave rather than the damper. I'm hoping this is the issue.

s14SRguy
04-08-2014, 07:52 PM
I always bleed from the slave bleed screw...then again i have a damper delete. Maybe it can help you too.

Known as the
clutch damper, Nissan put this on all manual-transmission
S13's and S14's to ease clutch engagement. However,
it also makes the clutch feel "disconnected" with a
soft pedal response.

http://garage.projectraine.com/content_guides/240_clutchdamper/clutchdamper.html

Id check that out.

jarred3636
04-08-2014, 07:58 PM
I always bleed from the slave bleed screw...then again i have a damper delete. Maybe it can help you too.



http://garage.projectraine.com/content_guides/240_clutchdamper/clutchdamper.html

Id check that out.

I want to do this but I'm afraid that with my luck, I'll pinch the hard line. How did you bend yours?

s14SRguy
04-09-2014, 09:06 AM
Just bend it slowly and carefully, or if you have a bit of extra cash you can just get a braided stainless steel line and not have to bend anything. If you do bend it just don't go too fast. Super easy mod. Trust

jarred3636
04-09-2014, 12:02 PM
Just bend it slowly and carefully, or if you have a bit of extra cash you can just get a braided stainless steel line and not have to bend anything. If you do bend it just don't go too fast. Super easy mod. Trust

Yea I saw that one made by chase I think it was for like 60 bucks but if I could do it for free, why not? Lol I'm going to do this tomorrow then bleed it properly from the slave and pray that that's the issue.

fliprayzin240sx
04-09-2014, 07:07 PM
Bend it by hand and be very gentle with it.

If you didnt turn the flywheel, that could be part of your problem right now. Always resurface your flywheel when you change clutch, specially when you change from one brand to another.

But honestly, ditch the dampener, bleed the line at the slave, then feel where the clutch engages/disengages on the pedal. You might just have the catch too high up and the pedal is riding the clutch.

If anything, try shortening the mastercylinder shaft until the pedal doesnt go all the way up, check if you can get the car in gear at that point. If you can't, lengten the shaft and feel where the clutch engagement is at. You want it somewhat in the middle half. If that doesnt work, I suspect you have the wrong TOB/carrier setup and its physically wedging itself against the clutch when the tranny is in.

97nismo
04-09-2014, 07:22 PM
Almost sounds like your slave cylinder isn't working

jarred3636
04-10-2014, 09:16 PM
Almost sounds like your slave cylinder isn't working

I'm thinking it might be that or the MC. When we adjusted the clutch pedal, the engagement point wouldn't change. It's constant at the top. So I'm thinking the slave isn't decompressing all the way?

williamb
04-11-2014, 01:55 PM
Did you put grease or anti-sieze on the input shaft and the part that the t.o.b. rides on?

jarred3636
04-11-2014, 11:17 PM
Did you put grease or anti-sieze on the input shaft and the part that the t.o.b. rides on?

Yes we did. I just replaced the MC and the slave and still didn't fix the issue. I did come across something though, when I did my research..the fork is suppose to move freely right? When I had the slave cylinder off, I tried moving the fork by hand and it wouldn't budge. Again, is it suppose to move freely?

97nismo
04-12-2014, 08:50 PM
You put the spring on the fork wrong

fliprayzin240sx
04-12-2014, 10:17 PM
Yes we did. I just replaced the MC and the slave and still didn't fix the issue. I did come across something though, when I did my research..the fork is suppose to move freely right? When I had the slave cylinder off, I tried moving the fork by hand and it wouldn't budge. Again, is it suppose to move freely?

Supposed to have some play on it. Remove the dust cover, shine a light in there, move the fork back on forth by hand and see if the TOB/carrier moves some. If it doesnt budge at all, the TOB/carrier combo you have is too tall.

240pimp
04-22-2014, 08:45 AM
Did the fork and the carrier throwout sleeve move freely on the shaft when you had the transmission off the engine? Were you careful to put the fork into the spots on the sleeve that holds the throwout bearing, the fork does not go behind the sleeve.?

you wont be able to depress the fork by hand if the transmission is installed, it needs the hydraulic pressure of the slave to work. If someone depresses the clutch pedal, can you watch the fork move as the ram on the slave pushes it?

If all the above is good and no, the fork doesnt move then your clutch isn't bled properly.

I used the automatic to manual braided clutch line conversion, which gets rid of all that unnecessary b.s. between the slave and master. Think I paid 35 for it if i recall correctly. ebay.