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View Full Version : Fresh SR swap, no power to ECU and fuel pump fuse, won't start


jamg
03-03-2014, 10:41 PM
I'm done with the swap, ready for the first start, and i'm not getting any power to those fuses. my fuel pump doesn't prime, and the multi meter says im not getting any power to those fuses.

The upper/lower harness were attached and grounded before the motor was being dropped in. all of it is attached.

the green and black fuses that directly touch the battery is also hooked up and attached.

in the fuse box by the passenger side, the multi meter says all the fuses in there are getting power, except for the ECU and fuel pump.

i've already doubled checked the harness before the engine was dropped in, it's all hooked up.

the harness i am using is a wiring specialties harness.

I'm lost as to what to do. any advice?

ultimateirving
03-04-2014, 12:34 AM
is there any relays that might be shot?
Can you try jumping the fuel pump manually to verify it will prime.

bmxer882x
03-04-2014, 12:42 AM
is there any relays that might be shot?
Can you try jumping the fuel pump manually to verify it will prime.

To do this just stick a single wire in the 2 closest plugs on the relay. I believe the fuel pump is on the egi relay. In my 90, it was the middle green one.

jamg
03-04-2014, 12:49 AM
To do this just stick a single wire in the 2 closest plugs on the relay. I believe the fuel pump is on the egi relay. In my 90, it was the middle green one.

a wire directly from the battery?

bmxer882x
03-04-2014, 01:00 AM
No, the plugs look like this
........_
-
-......._
Stick a 2 inch piece of wire between the two on the left. The closest 2

Driftwire
03-04-2014, 05:23 AM
+1 for relay issue.

jamg
03-04-2014, 06:15 AM
I'll try that out. The car sat for a year, I'm pretty sure its all good..

bmxer882x
03-04-2014, 06:18 AM
also this shouldn't be the issue but you said the engine was grounded via harness, thats not near thick enough. I have 2 engine grounds directly from head to chassis and from intake mani to chassis, both being about 2 gauge in size.

sleepyS14se
03-04-2014, 07:35 AM
is the wiring specialties a brand new harness or is it a second hand harness?

jamg
03-04-2014, 10:57 AM
also this shouldn't be the issue but you said the engine was grounded via harness, thats not near thick enough. I have 2 engine grounds directly from head to chassis and from intake mani to chassis, both being about 2 gauge in size.

i'll check for those. and if i dont have it, i'll make some.

is the wiring specialties a brand new harness or is it a second hand harness?

bought it used. none of it was cut up or anything though..

fliprayzin240sx
03-04-2014, 08:30 PM
I say message Yuri at Wiring Specialties, he should be able to give you ideas on what to check. Also, what kind of SR and into what chassis?

jamg
03-04-2014, 09:45 PM
I say message Yuri at Wiring Specialties, he should be able to give you ideas on what to check. Also, what kind of SR and into what chassis?

s13 SR into S13

Flyin_bryan
03-05-2014, 01:04 PM
check to see if the ignition wire is hot to the f4 plug. black with a red tracer. if its not hot when the ignition is triggered then thats probably the culpret.

jamg
03-05-2014, 01:27 PM
check to see if the ignition wire is hot to the f4 plug. black with a red tracer. if its not hot when the ignition is triggered then thats probably the culpret.

will do.

thanks

rebornS14
03-12-2014, 06:17 PM
was the S13 a auto before you did the swap?

kpnasty
03-13-2014, 07:51 PM
im having this exact problem.. no ecu power, no prime, and no crank.. j4 ecu and new j4 wiring specialties harness. also jumped the EGI relay and it powered my pump. im as confused as you.

wiring specialties
03-17-2014, 08:22 AM
Please give us a call and we will be more than happy to help you sort out the issue if you still haven't.

-Brandon

wiring specialties
03-17-2014, 08:39 PM
Most of the time when the ECU seems dead with key on, the ECCS circuit is faulty.
Once the ECU sees ignition key on (black/red wire to 12V), it will send a ground signal from pin 4 to the ECCS relay, which will then power the sensors, including the ECU.

If that signal is not generated by the ECU, the whole system will look completely dead.
As suggested above, first step is to see if the ignition wire gets 12V. Its at the GREY 8-pin plug by the pass headlight. Check the RED wire for constant 12V. If both check out, i would say the ECCS is next. The small red/black wire in the brown connector by the headlight is the control wire. If it sees ground, i am sure all will come alive.

Any questions, just hit us up...