Rayiens
02-24-2014, 11:12 AM
Hello guys, previously I did a review for Forcewerkz’s Navan Bumper and that seemed to help several of you guys decide on whether or not you wanted to purchase the bumper. This time, I picked up a set of ISIS performance braided steel S14 to Z32 conversion lines from Ken at EnjukuRacing.
I’ll be going over my impression of the product, a general installation guide and an after install impression.
Initial impression
Packaging: Packaging came pretty standard. No rips on tears in the plastic protector. Product was clearly labeled.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo90_zpsc325f5c4.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo90_zpsc325f5c4.jpg.html)
Out of the Package: Lines look great. All the fittings seem solid. No machining imperfections. No rips in PVC outer cover or rubber ends. Looks pretty baller with the yellow!
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo91_zpsfa4d7ec6.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo91_zpsfa4d7ec6.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo93_zps3b1a956c.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo93_zps3b1a956c.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo95_zpsc9881725.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo95_zpsc9881725.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo94_zpscabe16cc.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo94_zpscabe16cc.jpg.html)
Other parts that I will be using in this install include : Hawk HPS brake pads, cross drilled/slotted Bauer rotors, and freshly Rebuilt 30mm aluminum Z32 calipers.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo98_zpsd8a54d98.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo98_zpsd8a54d98.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo97_zps8938dfc8.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo97_zps8938dfc8.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo96_zpsaf1e9f7a.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo96_zpsaf1e9f7a.jpg.html)
Install:
1. Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. No need to explain this if you’re trying to do a brake swap.
2. Remove the 2 19mm bolts holding the stock caliper to the front knuckles and move it aside. You can then remove the rotor by pulling on it.
3. If you plan to trim the slash shield, follow the guide here: http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm; Otherwise keep following as I removed it completely.
4. Remove the axel nut cover using a chisel/Hammer
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo99_zps2393fd3d.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo99_zps2393fd3d.jpg.html)
4. Remove the front axel nut (32mm). There are 2 indentations in the nut that you must flatten out before you can take the nut off. You can either chisel these out or take an impact wrench to the nut (what I did).
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/nut_zps17e5cb76.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/nut_zps17e5cb76.png.html)
5. Take off the axel nut and washer found behind the nut. You might need a magnetic wand to remove the washer.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/nut2_zps76233463.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/nut2_zps76233463.png.html)
6. At this point you can remove the front hubs and it should look like this. You can then remove the front splash shield by tugging on it. It will require some bending and pulling, but it will eventually come off.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/shield_zpsa932eda7.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/shield_zpsa932eda7.png.html)
7. put the front hub back on and torque the front axel nut back on. Torque spec for the front axel nut is anywhere between 150-200ft/lbs.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo_zps1ef2c81f.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo_zps1ef2c81f.jpg.html)
8. At this point you can install your new rotor. Bolt on the calipers (torqued to 85ft/lb) and reconnect the lines. Brake fluid will be leaking out when you disconnect the lines to the body, so have a drip pan or something ready to catch it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231029_zps17548cf5.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231029_zps17548cf5.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231024_zps492c4b94.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231024_zps492c4b94.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231019_zpsa84e7fe0.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231019_zpsa84e7fe0.jpg.html)
9. Install your brake pads. Bleed the brakes. Reinstall the wheel and you’re good to go.
Initial impression: (With the installation of the new pads and brakes on a stock s14 BMC.) Pedal feels softer, but progressive. The brakes bite very hard and stop the car much better than the stock s14 calipers.
After about 2 months of use, lines have not had a single issue. No leaks. Pedal still feels firm and have great braking response.
I’ll be going over my impression of the product, a general installation guide and an after install impression.
Initial impression
Packaging: Packaging came pretty standard. No rips on tears in the plastic protector. Product was clearly labeled.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo90_zpsc325f5c4.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo90_zpsc325f5c4.jpg.html)
Out of the Package: Lines look great. All the fittings seem solid. No machining imperfections. No rips in PVC outer cover or rubber ends. Looks pretty baller with the yellow!
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo91_zpsfa4d7ec6.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo91_zpsfa4d7ec6.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo93_zps3b1a956c.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo93_zps3b1a956c.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo95_zpsc9881725.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo95_zpsc9881725.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo94_zpscabe16cc.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo94_zpscabe16cc.jpg.html)
Other parts that I will be using in this install include : Hawk HPS brake pads, cross drilled/slotted Bauer rotors, and freshly Rebuilt 30mm aluminum Z32 calipers.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo98_zpsd8a54d98.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo98_zpsd8a54d98.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo97_zps8938dfc8.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo97_zps8938dfc8.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo96_zpsaf1e9f7a.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo96_zpsaf1e9f7a.jpg.html)
Install:
1. Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. No need to explain this if you’re trying to do a brake swap.
2. Remove the 2 19mm bolts holding the stock caliper to the front knuckles and move it aside. You can then remove the rotor by pulling on it.
3. If you plan to trim the slash shield, follow the guide here: http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm; Otherwise keep following as I removed it completely.
4. Remove the axel nut cover using a chisel/Hammer
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo99_zps2393fd3d.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo99_zps2393fd3d.jpg.html)
4. Remove the front axel nut (32mm). There are 2 indentations in the nut that you must flatten out before you can take the nut off. You can either chisel these out or take an impact wrench to the nut (what I did).
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/nut_zps17e5cb76.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/nut_zps17e5cb76.png.html)
5. Take off the axel nut and washer found behind the nut. You might need a magnetic wand to remove the washer.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/nut2_zps76233463.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/nut2_zps76233463.png.html)
6. At this point you can remove the front hubs and it should look like this. You can then remove the front splash shield by tugging on it. It will require some bending and pulling, but it will eventually come off.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/shield_zpsa932eda7.png (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/shield_zpsa932eda7.png.html)
7. put the front hub back on and torque the front axel nut back on. Torque spec for the front axel nut is anywhere between 150-200ft/lbs.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/photo_zps1ef2c81f.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/photo_zps1ef2c81f.jpg.html)
8. At this point you can install your new rotor. Bolt on the calipers (torqued to 85ft/lb) and reconnect the lines. Brake fluid will be leaking out when you disconnect the lines to the body, so have a drip pan or something ready to catch it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231029_zps17548cf5.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231029_zps17548cf5.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231024_zps492c4b94.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231024_zps492c4b94.jpg.html)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t210/stpdaznfob/20140125_231019_zpsa84e7fe0.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/stpdaznfob/media/20140125_231019_zpsa84e7fe0.jpg.html)
9. Install your brake pads. Bleed the brakes. Reinstall the wheel and you’re good to go.
Initial impression: (With the installation of the new pads and brakes on a stock s14 BMC.) Pedal feels softer, but progressive. The brakes bite very hard and stop the car much better than the stock s14 calipers.
After about 2 months of use, lines have not had a single issue. No leaks. Pedal still feels firm and have great braking response.