FMIC hotpipe routing problems from turbo

[240pimp]

Here is my hotpipe routing issue. The garrett turbo i installed on my bottom mount exhaust doesn't leave alot of space for the intercooler piping since it faces downwards at greater than a 45 degree angle. Any pics of similar setups and how you routed the piping for s13?

I can't really clock it, since the actuator is right in the way(believe me, I tried other positions), and the plate holding the actuator can't be flipped around like some of the videos show because of the way its made.

I thought about making some sort of a custom actuator mounting plate to allow me to clock the turbo housing, but i think its too big, and I must be missing something. It can't be this hard. I would prefer that the exhaust port that goes to the turbo be facing upward, say on a 45 degree angle. That would be ideal.

Look at the pics and tell me what you think. Your thoughts and setup pics will be appreciated.

http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l469/hockeydad101/s13%20sr20/photo11.jpg
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l469/hockeydad101/s13%20sr20/photo3m.jpg?t=1392690517
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l469/hockeydad101/s13%20sr20/photo5m.jpg?t=1392690562

[Tom N]

The compressor outlet can't be above the internal gate actuator?

[jr_ss]

If I'm not mistaken, the comp cover should be bolted on with 2 plates and 6-8 bolts. You can loosen them up and position them as needed. Then you can reposition your actuator to the correct position. If that doesn't work, you can have an aluminum 90 welded on or find a silicone 90 to slip on and route your pipes accordingly.

[240pimp]

I've already tried to clock the intake side so the hotpipe port sits above the actuator, but the plate holding the actuator is "single position" and you have to get it pretty high to clear the actuator itself, plus the plate just doesn't line up with the bolt positions at all. At minimum, I would need to make a new plate to hold the actuator to the bolt positions.

I've already had to make the throttle cable holder, top rad holders, and FMIC lower supports, so it seems to be the way things keep going.

I'm gonna take a pic straight on so you can see the clearance issues with the actuator, hotpipe port on the turbo and the exhaust piping.

[kkaleher]

I think I remember having to drill a hole in my wg bracket on the gt2871 I had (when they first can out) so I could clock it correctly. Pretty sure i just used 1 bolt on the bracket and then just used a washer on the other bolt, worked fine. Someone may make another bracket for that situation now?

[240pimp]

Fcuk it. I clocked the turbo to where I wanted it, and cut the bracket apart to weld it back together so it works with the wastegate actuator.

Should work out just fine. Will post pics once I've welded it back together.

[aga]

thats the only way to do it properly mate.