Rear Axle Discussion

[ixfxi]

Anyone here analyze the different types of axle construction with the axles that fit our cars?

Most of us typically install the axle and never actually disassemble it to look at the differences of how they are built.

Years ago I had an NA Z32 VLSD which requires the J30 axles. Anyone who's accidentally popped off the dust cover knows that grease and bearings will fall out making an immediate mess. Though, I never took apart the stock S-chassis axles.

Apparently the S-chassis axles use tripod CV joints, I would imagine like this:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/tripodjoint.jpg

And the J30 axles use Rzeppa CV joints like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/sisyphus_/rzeppa.jpg

I'm curious if anyone has looked into the construction of the Q45/Z32TT axles.

I recall people asking what type of grease to use should you accidentally spill out the OE grease. Redline CV2 grease is available, as well as grease from Honda, Toyota, etc.

[cbcm2435]

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/tripodjoint.jpg

this is a tribod cv joint, it gets its name from the 3 bearings inside

[aligoodn]

Q45/Z32TT use the Rzeppa or ball in cage style (same thing). Skyline GTR axles also use the same style joint. The axial torsion is more evenly distributed with that style of joint, which is why you find them on higher performance cars instead of the tripod style joint (6 contact points instead of 3). Also the design of the outer housings is superior with a ball in cage joint from a materials perspective. The angular nature of the tripod style housing puts stress risers in the metal right where the tripod rides on the inside of the outer housing, further weakening the joint. The outside of the ball in cage joints is smooth and the only sharp angles are where the grooves were cut for the ball bearings to interface on the inside of the housing. The angle is much more obtuse and the ball bearing doesn't transfer the torque right on the corner. Applying torque to the ball in cage joint results in fairly even strain around the outer housing, as the ball bearings attempt to stretch the outer housing. On the tripod style housing, you can't leverage the strength of the material in that manner.

J30's only used the ball and cage style for '93 and early '94 year cars, and then late model '94 and up cars shifted back to a tripod style. I guess Nissan decided that an NA VG30 coupled with an automatic transmission wasn't going to dish out enough abuse to warrant the more durable CV joints.

As for grease, pretty much any moly based grease will work. The issue is that most people don't periodically clean and re-pack CV joints as a preventive maintenance item. If you wait until the CV is making noise, its too late; by then the boots have torn and there's enough dirt in there that the joint is gone. They don't need it that often, in my drift car that's a winter maintenance item and in my street cars I do it every 100k and I've never had one fail prematurely. Remember to buy quality boots (preferably OEM), I've never had good luck with the cheap aftermarket ones; they always seem to crack.

[Drift_FX]

how do these compare to DSS 1000hp axles? is it the same design but stronger material? or a better design overall?

[aligoodn]

DSS uses the same ball in cage style CV, but its a larger diameter; hence the rating. I think they adapted the ones Porsche used on the 924/944. Unfortunately if you're at that level of horsepower, the stock 240sx output shafts will be the achilles heel of your drivetrain. You can search and find plenty of examples of people upgrading to DSS axles after munching regular tripod style 240sx axles only to snap the output shafts from the diff.

[heychris]

Do the j30 axles fit the s14 track...ie: is it a worthwhile bolt on mod since I have more than stock hp but less than 1000hp. ...

Ch

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[Drift_FX]

DSS uses the same ball in cage style CV, but its a larger diameter; hence the rating. I think they adapted the ones Porsche used on the 924/944. Unfortunately if you're at that level of horsepower, the stock 240sx output shafts will be the achilles heel of your drivetrain. You can search and find plenty of examples of people upgrading to DSS axles after munching regular tripod style 240sx axles only to snap the output shafts from the diff.

the 1000hp axles from DSS come with output shafts....

[aligoodn]

Then problem solved. Their 900hp upgrades used to not do that.

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[ixfxi]

Q45/Z32TT use the Rzeppa or ball in cage style (same thing).

J30's only used the ball and cage style for '93 and early '94 year cars, and then late model '94 and up cars shifted back to a tripod style.

Interesting. How did you find out that the J30 switched axle types? My previous setup was the NA Z32 VLSD w/ J30 (Rzeppa-style) axles. With the S15 HLSD setup I picked up, I found 3 different output flanges can fit: the common 3-star (3x2) using 8mm hardware, 5-star (10mm hardware), and 6-star (10mm hardware). All of these are 30-spline shafts which are needed with the HLSD.

When I spec'ed the output shafts, I did not see a difference in diameter between the 29-spline and 30-spline shafts, so I do not think the 30-spline shafts are stronger in any way, just different. I figure anyone putting down big power needs to go with the R230 diff, axle and hub setup.


Do the j30 axles fit the s14 track...

This is elementary in the community. The J30 axles fit all S-chassis, as long as you have the 5-star flanges on your diff (ie: NA Z32 R200V VLSD).

Note: I believe a 5-star flange exists that uses 8mm hardware. From what I've gathered, its a complete toss-up which output flanges NISSAN decided to use over the years; either the 3-star (3x2) or the 5-star, both using 8mm fasteners.

edit: I've attached a photo, hopefully this is correct and useful for the n00bs.

[ixfxi]

So for those unaware, problems arise when you decide to play with your rear end (no joke intended). The S15 helical differential (HLSD) requires specific output shafts. The standard output shafts on our cars are 29-spline and the S15 are very specific 30-spline shafts. They are practically identical EXCEPT for the spline count, so it is easy to get them confused. As far as I know, the S15 HLSD ONLY came with the 3-star (3x2) style output shafts and flanges, so the only thing you need to make sure when buying an S15 HLSD is that it comes with the proper shafts. If it doesnt, then you will most likely get shafted trying to find the shafts - they're rather difficult to find them when you need them here in the US.

By the way, anyone with a careful eye will notice that one shaft is longer than the other. The LH shaft is the long one, the RH shaft is shorter. Conversely, axle lengths are also different as LH is shorter than the RH.

[aligoodn]

Later model J30's were 3x2 bolt pattern instead of 5x1 where the output half shafts bolt to the inner CV. That change was coincident with the change from rzeppa to tripod CV's. If you made a point of getting everything as 5x1 bolt pattern, then you definitely had rzeppa.

I'm running R34 GTT output shafts on my S15 helical (instead of the S15 output shafts which were 3x2) to get the 5x1 pattern so I can run J30 axles. The R34 GTT came with the same helical LSD as the S15. Not any beefier than the S15 ones, just different bolt pattern. The S15 output shafts are slightly larger than the standard 240sx ones (S13/S14), however the equation for maximum shear stress has a diameter^-3 term in it, that slight size increase does make a difference. So even though you're only changing the diameter by 1mm, the change from 29mm to 30mm of diameter means that the half shaft will hold ~11% more torque with the same level of shear stress.

tau_max = 16*T/(pi*D^3); T is applied torque and D is diameter

What 6x1 bolt style output shaft did you find that works on a S15 helical?

The Q45 output shafts are 31-spline I think which is the same as the Skyline GTR ones and are 32mm in diameter IIRC, which is the beefiest setup you can fit in an R200 diff housing. I can't find the picture I remember seeing online somewhere, but the Z32TT output shafts aren't any beefier than the early Q45 ones, but obviously the ring gear size increase and size of the pinion bearings make the R230 setup worthwhile.

[ixfxi]

I wish I knew where the 6-bolt 30-spline setup came from. My vendor snatched it up from Japan and the vehicle source was lost in translation.

For my 300HP power level, I chose to stick with the S15 HLSD, 5-bolt (10mm hardware) 30-spline shafts and matching J30 axles. I think this is a reasonably stout setup. I considered going with the Z32-TT / Q45 axle setup but just felt it was excessive, especially since I'de still be running an R200.

Here is what appears to be R34 GTR output shafts. Its quite possible that they are 30-spline and the same diameter and fit the S15 HLSD. See attached photo.

One thing I just thought of, it may be possible to take the 5-star J30 axle, then take a 6-star Q45 axle -- disassemble and swap flanges. If this would work, this would allow you to run the 6-bolt setup without having to hunt for Z32-TT LH axles.

Another thing to note, the second photo I am attaching is from the Sillbeer project car, they used an R33 GTR differential -- but swapped the input flange so that it would work on an S-chassis. I have no idea what is inside the R33 GTR differential or what spline count the output shafts are. I'de have to check my FSMs and I dont have them on this PC.

[waxball88]

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/500x/46110724.jpg
Very useful info. I remember when i hunted down that the s15 shafts were different, made me very sad. Shipping a whole pumpkin from japan is expensive and finding just the helical with half shafts is hard. Its also a lot of extra favor to ask a friend "hey once this diff gets to you tear its filthy fluid filled ass apart just to send me the parts i need"

[blessedhellrider]

This is elementary in the community. The J30 axles fit all S-chassis, as long as you have the 5-star flanges on your diff (ie: NA Z32 R200V VLSD).



except for the j30 axle dust shield ,had to grind off to fit 89 s13 w/ N/A Z32. dont know if thats relevant :o

[Sforteen]

I wish I knew where the 6-bolt 30-spline setup came from. My vendor snatched it up from Japan and the vehicle source was lost in translation.

For my 300HP power level, I chose to stick with the S15 HLSD, 5-bolt (10mm hardware) 30-spline shafts and matching J30 axles. I think this is a reasonably stout setup. I considered going with the Z32-TT / Q45 axle setup but just felt it was excessive, especially since I'de still be running an R200.

Here is what appears to be R34 GTR output shafts. Its quite possible that they are 30-spline and the same diameter and fit the S15 HLSD. See attached photo.

One thing I just thought of, it may be possible to take the 5-star J30 axle, then take a 6-star Q45 axle -- disassemble and swap flanges. If this would work, this would allow you to run the 6-bolt setup without having to hunt for Z32-TT LH axles.

Another thing to note, the second photo I am attaching is from the Sillbeer project car, they used an R33 GTR differential -- but swapped the input flange so that it would work on an S-chassis. I have no idea what is inside the R33 GTR differential or what spline count the output shafts are. I'de have to check my FSMs and I dont have them on this PC.

6 Bolt 30 spline outputs are from the R32 GTR they fit the q45 style axles..

[aligoodn]

What model year R32 did your output shafts come from?

I picked up a set from a '93 and the diameter was too big and they had more splines so they wouldn't work with my S15 helical. Maybe early model R32s had smaller ones.

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[ixfxi]

except for the j30 axle dust shield ,had to grind off to fit 89 s13 w/ N/A Z32. dont know if thats relevant :o

Post a photo, its hard to understand what you did or are suggesting to do.

The J30 axles are 100% drop in, I did not have to modify anything. In fact, the metal grease covers are flush with the J30 whereas the S-chassis have a bump or cone that protrudes from them. I attached a photo that shows the difference, you can see the bump on the S-chassis grease cover.


What model year R32 did your output shafts come from?
I picked up a set from a '93 and the diameter was too big and they had more splines so they wouldn't work with my S15 helical. Maybe early model R32s had smaller ones.


People need to specify precisely which model Skyline, because it appears a variety of differentials were used on the 32/33/34 depending on whether it was GTST, GTR, or VSPEC.

[blessedhellrider]

Post a photo, its hard to understand what you did or are suggesting to do.



had to grind down this .....

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m514/yancey1871982/sccp_0211_08_z1989_nissan_240sx_s13_suspensionaxle _seals_zps986b3398.jpg (http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/yancey1871982/media/sccp_0211_08_z1989_nissan_240sx_s13_suspensionaxle _seals_zps986b3398.jpg.html)


to fit this .....

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m514/yancey1871982/IMG_4924_zps27f67c77.jpg (http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/yancey1871982/media/IMG_4924_zps27f67c77.jpg.html)


photos may or may not accurately represent personal belongings lol.

[blessedhellrider]

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m514/yancey1871982/IMG_1187_zpsb7da6f83.jpg (http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/yancey1871982/media/IMG_1187_zpsb7da6f83.jpg.html)

[heychris]

Great thread. ...One of the few things with my s14 that I've not really studied....subscribed

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[racepar1]

had to grind down this .....

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m514/yancey1871982/sccp_0211_08_z1989_nissan_240sx_s13_suspensionaxle _seals_zps986b3398.jpg (http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/yancey1871982/media/sccp_0211_08_z1989_nissan_240sx_s13_suspensionaxle _seals_zps986b3398.jpg.html)


Why would you grind that down??? You CAN just knock it off with a hammer, it's just a pressed-on dust shield...

[ixfxi]

Why would you grind that down??? You CAN just knock it off with a hammer, it's just a pressed-on dust shield...

I was thinking the same thing. I dont recall my axles even having them or interfering. I will check in the next couple days.

Anyway Aaron, you know modern-day Zilvia... this discussion is rocket-science for most.

[KiLLeR2001]

I know for a fact the '97 J30 output shaft spline count is different than the '95-'96 J30. And both are 3x2 setup. I never actually counted, but my guess would be the '97 is a 30-spline. I pulled a VLSD from the junkyard on a '97 J30 and attempted to put the output shafts into an S14 VLSD and they would not go in.

[EsChassisLove]

I love my Q45 rear end.

I love this thread.

[racepar1]

I know for a fact the '97 J30 output shaft spline count is different than the '95-'96 J30. And both are 3x2 setup. I never actually counted, but my guess would be the '97 is a 30-spline. I pulled a VLSD from the junkyard on a '97 J30 and attempted to put the output shafts into an S14 VLSD and they would not go in.

Hmmmm, I'll have to look into that. I need a pair of 30 spline output shafts for a Nismo 2-way that I acquired. I would prefer 5-bolt shafts though. I had read that the N/A Z32 diffs had the 30 spline shafts, but that is NOT the case.

[Sforteen]

What model year R32 did your output shafts come from?

I picked up a set from a '93 and the diameter was too big and they had more splines so they wouldn't work with my S15 helical. Maybe early model R32s had smaller ones.

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I have no idea what year it was from, but it was an R32 GTR Non vspec

I bet the stubs you had were from another vehicle... I have never heard of a 31 spline R200

[jamg]

I love my Q45 rear end.

I love this thread.

are you using it on your SR?

can you please give me a good user first hand experience?

im considering it only because of the MPG, but at the same time i don't want my acceleration to suffer substantially.

i'd live to cruise way under 3k RPM at 70MPH on the highway..

[EsChassisLove]

Yes. 420whp SR on low boost.

If you don't have at least 400whp, don't put this in your car. The gears are very very long, and low power cars don't like that at all.

But it gets 30-35mpg on the highway :)

[rbs14kouki]

my buddy on is drag s13 run is s13 punking but all the rest is r32 gtr : diff inside , out-put shaft , axle and i even think he runs r32 bearing (but the bearings im not sure)

never broke and axle in is life ... but the drive shaft ripped in two and almost cut is right leg off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoX1nJu2Dgc

[jamg]

Yes. 420whp SR on low boost.

If you don't have at least 400whp, don't put this in your car. The gears are very very long, and low power cars don't like that at all.

But it gets 30-35mpg on the highway :)

fuhhhhh that MPG.

my favorite part is how it's beneficial for me to mod my car even more, to get better gas mileage.

[zurud]

Yes. 420whp SR on low boost.

If you don't have at least 400whp, don't put this in your car. The gears are very very long, and low power cars don't like that at all.

But it gets 30-35mpg on the highway :)


What's your time and speed at 1/4 mile? I am planning to use q45 diff for gas saving but I don't know if it will hurt my 1/4 mile time.

[EsChassisLove]

Haven't ran a 1/4.

But I can do the 1/8 in 2nd gear lol. 8000rpm redline and stock SR20 gets 90mph out of 2nd.

[jamg]

Haven't ran a 1/4.

But I can do the 1/8 in 2nd gear lol. 8000rpm redline and stock SR20 gets 90mph out of 2nd.

so my 350whp with 17x9 wheels S13 will have a funky acceleration if i were to get that diff?

[EsChassisLove]

Wheels won't make too much of a difference.

[ixfxi]

My rear axle R&R is done. Be warned, I am confident in saying that this is the absolute dirtiest job you will ever do. Grease will go everywhere, so make sure your workbench is clear, make sure you have plenty of disposable paper towels, disposable gloves, and my suggestion: an apron.

I am running J30 axles. I took a chance and ordered Z32 NA axle boots from NISSAN and they fit just fine.

Getting down to brass tax, I found the FSM instructions rather confusing. Taking apart the inner CV was easy: open the boot, remove majority of beige grease, remove C-clip, then use a puller to remove the part of the CV that is pressed onto the axle shaft. With that done, the boot is free to remove.

FSM suggested marking the parts and not changing their alignment. Making marks on grease covered parts seemed like too much work so I just said fuckit and took a chance without making any markings.

FSM said something about how-to disassemble the outer CV, but I found it impossible. I used a slide hammer and attempted to pull it off of the shaft but it just would not come apart. Instead, I installed the OUTER BOOT after disassembling the INNER CV. With the inner CV apart, I was able to slide out and service the outer boot.

It appears NISSAN used 2 types of grease:
- The inner CV grease was orange when new out the bottle, or beige when old
- The outer CV grease was grey when new out the bottle, or brown when old

The inner CV grease is less viscous which is why it spills easily if the dust cover is removed. The outer CV grease is very thick and does not run.

When you buy boots from NISSAN, they include the boots, grease, snap rings, boot straps, etc. I did not know this and already bought Redline CV2 grease, so I shelved the NISSAN grease and used the Redline grease. Ironically, the red colored Redline grease looks and seems identical to the Mobil1 synthetic grease I have here. Mobil1 grease is a couple bucks cheaper too. 1 jar of Redline CV2 perfectly fills (4) CVs and I packed them generously.

[racepar1]

The best way to remove the CV with the internal clip is with a brass punch and a hammer. Even then they sometimes won't budge. I would just do it the same way you did and service that boot with the other removed already. As for marking it for alignment, FUCK THAT. It doesn't make a damn difference in the world. The axles are NOT externally balanced after assembly like a driveshaft. Also, YES it is about the messiest job in the known universe. I HATE doing axle boots because of all the damned sloppy, stinky, old grease.

[ixfxi]

I am attaching photos of the extra clips, I really couldnt figure out what to do with these (other than arrange them like a pair of titties).

[racepar1]

I am attaching photos of the extra clips, I really couldnt figure out what to do with these (other than arrange them like a pair of titties).

The large clips are supposed to go on the inside of the tripod CV's to retain the "balls" into the cups. The small clips are the clips that go inside the outer CV's that you gave up on removing.

[ixfxi]

As for marking it for alignment, FUCK THAT. It doesn't make a damn difference in the world. The axles are NOT externally balanced after assembly like a driveshaft.

I figure maybe they are matched my how they are machined, possibly. Or maybe how they slowly wear together, but I just did not care to do all that. My hands (gloves) were lathered in grease and I was very much past finessing everything. Plus, I accidentally serviced the INNER CV first. After not being able to disassemble the outer CV, I had to disassemble the inner CV again, unpack the Redline grease, etc... it was a big pain.

My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.

Anyway, this was my first time servicing axles. I enjoyed learning about the differences in axle construction, but the job is messy. In case anyone is wondering, parts costs is around $130-150 (using OEM boots). I'm kinda surprised at how little servicing axles has been discussed.


The large clips are supposed to go on the inside of the tripod CV's to retain the "balls" into the cups. The small clips are the clips that go inside the outer CV's that you gave up on removing.

FYI, my J30 axles did not have those. I did not see any machined provision for the larger rings so I just did not use them. Aaron, you dont have any photos of where they go, do you?

[racepar1]

My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.

For a lot of things I find that FSM's are best used as coasters...

LOL!

FYI, my J30 axles did not have those. I did not see any machined provision for the larger rings so I just did not use them. Aaron, you dont have any photos of where they go, do you?

IF those CV's use those there should be a groove machined inside the cup near the edge. Like you said though I don't think that all of them use those as the boots retain the axle in position as well. Especially with the better ACTUAL CV joint for the outer joint. I don't have any pics, I've just seen that before. They're probably only used on the axles with the dual tripod CV's.

[ixfxi]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/sisyphus_/rzeppa.jpg

The J30 inner CV looks identical to the above photo. If you remove the dust cover and compress the CV boot, the bearings will pop out of the race. There are 6 bearings. I did not see a machined groove in the J30 axle. Maybe its only found on the Z32, I really dont know. The old boots were still good after ~20 years and they did not have that retaining clip. Anyway, I did not find it critical or compatible so I left it out.

[racepar1]

Those clips are used in the tripod style joints like the stock 240sx axles. I had to go out to the garage quickly and check my J30 axles because I SWORE I remembered the inner joints being tripods, but they're not...

[codyace]

My Lexus SC FSM says the same thing about marking the axles to the diff, or the driveshaft to the flange, etc... but I never found it to ever make a difference.

While there is no 'balance' persay, it is good SOP to keep them all in the same position and marking to prevent any NVH issues. Granted this isn't as prevalent on the axles, it does make a difference with the driveshaft itself. There are some cars/trucks that you discover a new 'vibration' after putting everything back up in the driveline. All you need to do to begin troubleshooting is remove the driveshaft, spin it 180* to the pinion flange, and reinstall. I know it sounds wonky, but it works. I'd say 90% of the one piece driveshaft 'rumble' complaints from 240 guys can be solved with just spinning the flanges and re-installing.




And yes, the boot service sucks!

[TheRealSy90]

So does anybody know what RZeppa axle setup is a direct bolt in for a non and s13? I already have an OSGiken 2-way with 6bolt output shafts, so idk what I would have to use as I don't want to change differentials.

[az_240]

From what I can tell they only come in 5x1 and 6x1. You might be able to swap the axle/diff stubs in the OSgiken though.

[ixfxi]

this thread requires no additional input

its all been discussed - simply re-read the thread if you dont understand the solution to your problem

[Matej]

Are rear axles necessary? There are not any in the front.

[EsChassisLove]

Are rear axles necessary? There are not any in the front.

Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary

[Matej]

Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary
Bummer. Guess that is why the car will not move.

[racepar1]

Thats because its not AWD or FWD...... yes when you make power axles are necessary

For WHAT possible reason would you take Matej seriously???? You're NOT new here, so what's the excuse???? Sarcastic as fuck troll posts are his signature...

:squint:

[Matej]

That was uncalled for. I am just trying to learn about cars.

[az_240]

Anyone happen to know what axle stubs are interchangeable? I guess the lengths of the stubs are different between chassis. It would be nice to know what works with what.

Was reading this thread for reference> http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=570091


I'm basically trying to fit 5x1 10mm flanges (for j30 axles) into a USDM open diff LSD (Kaaz or Cusco RS) and want to know which ones I can use.

I'm sure there are others out there wondering the same thing since the open diff LSDs are a lot more common.

[ixfxi]

Anyone happen to know what axle stubs are interchangeable?

From what I can tell the USDM 6 bolt stubs (3x2 open diff) and USDM 5 bolt stubs (VLSD 5x1) are not interchangeable.

Also looks like USDM and JDM s-chassis axle stubs are not interchangeable.

But it looks like the JDM 6 bolt stubs and JDM 5 bolt stubs are (from what I've seen on YAJ listings with cusco diffs). Can anyone confirm?

Also trying to avoid the 5 star 8mm stubs since they won't work with J30 axles... anyone know specifically what cars used these?

You're only adding confusion here..

Viscous LSDs use very specific output shafts and as far as I know, are not interchangeable with much other than a VLSD.

The 5 and 6 bolt flanges you are referring to as "JDM" are the 30-spline shafts that use 10mm hardware. Again, this has been discussed.

Re-read the thread.

[az_240]

Sorry... edited that post for clarity.

Just wanting to fit 5 bolt axle stubs to a USDM (29 spline) open diff LSD and am wondering what will work since it's not entirely clear.

[ixfxi]

From what I understand, NISSAN used "whatevers available" when it comes to the output shafts.

Meaning, a car could come with either:
- 3x2 - 8mm hardware (most common)
or
- 5x1 - 8mm hardware

If you want to go with a 5x1 setup with J30 axles, do what most people do and install an NA Z32 VLSD w/ J30 axles.

Page #1, Post #9 has photos that have been embedded into the forum because hosts come and go over the years.

[az_240]

Those 2 way LSDs (VLSD for Cusco, Kaaz, OSgiken) are not nearly as common. Trying to purchase one used so I don't have to shell out a ton of money buying new and mess with swapping the internals.

Are there any 5 bolt output shafts that will fit into an open diff S13/S14 LSD?

[silviaNC]

Anybody have feedback on how the q45 3.54 setup affects 1/4 mile? Im on a 550-600 hp rb26 with z32 tranny.

[ixfxi]

how about you not post in this thread, since this has nothing to do with rear axles

there is a simple questions thread, go post there.

there are speed calculators you can use to take your HP and gearing to determine your performance specifications, i suggest finding and using it

[silviaNC]

how about you not post in this thread, since this has nothing to do with rear axles

there is a simple questions thread, go post there.

there are speed calculators you can use to take your HP and gearing to determine your performance specifications, i suggest finding and using it
Haha yes dad.

[TheRealSy90]

So anybody running 350z/370z rzeppa axles now that 6x2 to 6x1 adapter plates are available?

[az_240]

^I have a feeling those might be too long with adapters. If axles are too long they'll bind and likely pop the dust cover off getting grease everywhere.

Some good info here regarding axles.
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=4746&page=6

Here are some lengths from that thread. I have some R32 GTST axles I can include to this list when I get around to measuring them.

S13 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
S14 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
J30 left - 23-3/8" compressed, 24-1/2" relaxed (early J30)
350Z left - 23-7/8" compressed, 24-3/4" relaxed
Z32NA left - 24-3/8" compressed, 25-1/2" relaxed
Q45 left - 25-1/8" compressed, 26" relaxed (early Q45)

S13 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
S14 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
J30 right - 25-1/4" compressed, 26-1/8" relaxed
350Z right - 25-1/2" compressed, 26-3/8" relaxed
Z32NA right - 26" compressed, 26-7/8" relaxed
Q45 right - 27" compressed, 27-7/8" relaxed

[TheRealSy90]

^I have a feeling those might be too long with adapters. If axles are too long they'll bind and likely pop the dust cover off getting grease everywhere.



Yep that's exactly what happened when I installed them, the axles are too long with the adapter plates. The CV's just came apart the first time I drove it.

[Mister.E]

The kits I have seen say that you either need to have drop knuckles or next to 0 camber if you want the 350z axles to work properly without exploding.

[TheRealSy90]

The kits I have seen say that you either need to have drop knuckles or next to 0 camber if you want the 350z axles to work properly without exploding.

I tried them with 0 camber tucking rim on 17's, no dice. The Get Nuts stub shafts with 350z axle pattern are the proper way unless you widen the rear track to accommodate the spacer thickness. They actually shorten the stubs so the axles fit properly.

[ixfxi]

So anybody running 350z/370z rzeppa axles now that 6x2 to 6x1 adapter plates are available?

http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/collections/drivetrain/products/nissan-s13-s14-axle-adapters

(sigh)

why anyone would run such a shitty product is totally beyond me. shit looks defective and ill-conceived right from the get-go.

if you surpass the limitations of the *all* the oem axles available, then man up and pay driveshaft shop for a proper axle setup. why waste your fucking time with these shitty adapters?

[TheRealSy90]

http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/collections/drivetrain/products/nissan-s13-s14-axle-adapters

(sigh)

why anyone would run such a shitty product is totally beyond me. shit looks defective and ill-conceived right from the get-go.

if you surpass the limitations of the *all* the oem axles available, then man up and pay driveshaft shop for a proper axle setup. why waste your fucking time with these shitty adapters?

Yeah I made the mistake of buying them back when I posted that and finding out they don't work without a widened rear track width. The measurements they give on that site for required widths were not on there when I got them.


My only issue with driveshaft shop axles, is they are designed off of oem axle measurements, so on a lowered car I can see them having the same issue of stretched boots and overextended cv's no? That is unless you go with the Porshe 930 cv style axles. Basically overextending the cv's or exceeding the articulation that the cv can handle would most likely still cause problems no matter how much horsepower the axles are "rated" to handle.

[Mister.E]

I tried them with 0 camber tucking rim on 17's, no dice. The Get Nuts stub shafts with 350z axle pattern are the proper way unless you widen the rear track to accommodate the spacer thickness. They actually shorten the stubs so the axles fit properly.


Yeah, when the time comes I'm going to drive down to their shop and have mine converted.

[ixfxi]

My only issue with driveshaft shop axles, is they are designed off of oem axle measurements, so on a lowered car I can see them having the same issue of stretched boots and overextended cv's no? That is unless you go with the Porshe 930 cv style axles. Basically overextending the cv's or exceeding the articulation that the cv can handle would most likely still cause problems no matter how much horsepower the axles are "rated" to handle.

if you're having axle problems from being excessively lowered, have you considered.... wait for it.... not being so fucking low? its damn near 2016, people still havent figured out how lame it is to have a car that scoops shit up from the road, cant handle, and cant go over speed bumps?

[Nissansota240]

if you're having axle problems from being excessively lowered, have you considered.... wait for it.... not being so fucking low? its damn near 2016, people still havent figured out how lame it is to have a car that scoops shit up from the road, cant handle, and cant go over speed bumps?

http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/urkel.gif

[TheRealSy90]

Well, I already raised my car since I had those problems And have been fine on oem axles since then. I was simply stating what I experienced.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaysgottaredtop]

*on Zilvia whining about low cars*

http://i2.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/018/489/nick-young-confused-face-300x256_nqlyaa.png

[hellaslows13]

Damn I am running those shitty maverick motorsports adapters. Kept breaking axles in the rear since I am running the pbm drop knuckle and rlca combo. Ran oem axles with gktech axle spacers which did not work. Figured I needed some longer axles and some with the better Rzeppa design so I went with the 350z axles + maverick motorsports adapters. I have not put too many miles on this setup so I can really give much feedback but for the few times I have driven/drifted on them they seemed to hold up okay. Only time will tell I guess.

Blew out a brand new oreilly reman axle with gktech 15mm spacer after 100 miles and some drifting. My ride height + 18x12.5 wheels dont help either..
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/765/21263667009_80c56c371f_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/739/21263666739_292799115f_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5806/21459069501_ab65363249_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/715/21450556925_44de46dbae_b.jpg

My ride height
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/763/21424333396_bb337e6c9a_b.jpg

This is a very informative thread. I have learned a lot and like the contributions. Will update once I put more miles on this setup.

[jaysgottaredtop]

Blew out a brand new oreilly reman axle with gktech 15mm spacer after 100 miles and some drifting.

+1 to those reman'd axles being crap.

My driver side axle (stock from '91 as far as I could tell) had play in both joints after being low and going to drift events for years. I put in an Autozone/Advance/whatever axle, lasted the 25-mile drive to the drift event and half a lap before completely nuking one of its CV joints.

I switched back to another original Nissan axle from a friend's parts stash and haven't had another issue since. *knocks on wood*

[TheRealSy90]

I just want to make it clear because I'm tired of hearing people tell me to get drop knuckles.

Rear drop knuckles do absolutely nothing for axle problems, they only drop the suspension arms to correct geometry. It's physically impossible for the knuckle to have any effect on the location of the axle and hub, which is directly related to the center of the wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sforteen]

People should be checking how much free play are in the axles while at ride height if you going with wider track, ultra low (gay) or just changing your configuration in general.

Take the outer axle nut off and push axle thru the hub until it bottoms out, thats your free play.. i wouldn't want anymore than an Inch, the more you have beyond that the more likely you will have a failure.

[az_240]

^this x1000

[brndck]

soooooo is anyone running gktech rear knuckles with the maverick adapters and z33 axles? the gktech setup is supposed to have wider track than stock, and that should correct the issue, no?

[TheRealSy90]

Orr get GetNuts or Villians z33 axle stub shafts, then you can run z33 axles without increasing track width.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KiLLeR2001]

Or buy my R200 VLSD with 6x1 output shafts. :)

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=614693

[RickS14]

I have a s14 with a late model q45 diff with j30 axles. I have a jz swap. Goal is around 700whp. Is this a good set up?

[Sforteen]

what kinda of use does the car see?

[RickS14]

Well I'm still building it. Mainly a street car.I would like to put some 1/4 times down for sure.
I did buy a set rear z32 wheels to run some bias plys.

[2muchboost]

@RICK...with a 700whp 2j and drag use you would ideally want the early Q45 3.54 diff swap with axle setup. If I am not mistaken these are 31 spline axles.

[LuckyX2]

@RICK...with a 700whp 2j and drag use you would ideally want the early Q45 3.54 diff swap with axle setup. If I am not mistaken these are 31 spline axles.

31 spline outers, 30 spline inners.

350Zs and GTRs after 93 are 31 spline inners.

Source: Tried to fit my Q45 stubs that I was using in a pre 93 GTR diff into a post 93 style OS Giken diff and it didn't work. Had to machine 350z stubs.

[RickS14]

@RICK...with a 700whp 2j and drag use you would ideally want the early Q45 3.54 diff swap with axle setup. If I am not mistaken these are 31 spline axles.
@luckyx2


Thanks guys. Sucks some parts are hard to find.

[2muchboost]

@ lucky....good info. Never read into the GTR or 350z axles since I have the 3.54 diff swap and have never heard of one breaking.

[Sforteen]

im running R32 gtr axles in my S14 with an R230, the R230 is only 5/16 of an inch wider than an R200... so im sure r32 gtr axles would work fine with a 6x1 q45 setup

FYI Q45 from what i know is 30 spline.

[KiLLeR2001]

I have a set of LH Z32TT/LH Q45 axles for 240sx. PM me for more info.

[cnichols]

Sent Driveshaft Shop two cheap (~$20/ea) early G50 Q45 axles from a junkyard and had them install their upgraded shafts. Paid them $50/each to do the install with new boots, etc. Worth every penny. For anyone looking to do a 3.54 Q diff though...it really is kind of sluggish through the gears now (with F-body T56). I can see the damn 1/4 line while I'm shifting into 4th. Making 440 wheel N/A (119 mph 1/4) and went 127mph on a progressive 75 shot, but still the wrong gearing (For me). But, yes, cruising on the highway under 2K rpms is not bad. One good thing about them is I suppose it's not hitting the tire as hard so you may get better traction.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/nissan-1989-1998-240sx-550hp-bar-upgrade-2193

[KiLLeR2001]

Just to clarify, stock 240sx axles, J30 axles, Z32NA, 350z axles etc are all 29-spline.

The Z32TT / G50 Q45 axles are 32-spline.

[dorkidori_s13]

S15 Helical and R34 GTS-T are 30 Spline

just thought id add that...

[S-Verteen]

Brndck, I have an s13 with a 350z diff approximately 1/4 wider on each side paired with 350z axles and gktech lower control arms extended about 1 inch.

[Drink&Drift]

anyone been running the 350Z axles for awhile, and/or used them for drifting? thinking about jumping into that setup.

or does anyone have any recommendations for upgraded/reman axles?

[240sxrb30]

Is anybody running a 350z rear end and axles in a s14.

[ixfxi]

NA Z32 / Early J30 Rear Axle INNER BOOTS appear to be discontinued and NLA

Does anyone have a source for these?

Inner Boot PN: 39741-03P27
Outer Boot PN: 39241-73L28

I am totally bummed about this.

[KiLLeR2001]

5-bolt J30 inner and outer boots still available.

http://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com/oe-infiniti/c9bda73l28

http://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com/oe-infiniti/3974103p27

[ixfxi]

Not when you try to place an order through any NISSAN dealership. Doubt that trademotion website is current.

[claaasssiiiccc21]

NA Z32 / Early J30 Rear Axle INNER BOOTS appear to be discontinued and NLA

Does anyone have a source for these?

Inner Boot PN: 39741-03P27
Outer Boot PN: 39241-73L28

I am totally bummed about this.

I had to do the runaround for a while trying to find them then found some random ad on (iirc) rock auto for a beck and arnley part number, then went to Oreilly with that part number and had them within a week. Did it a year ago and don't remember the part number. z32NA inner

[S-Verteen]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Joint-Boot-Kit-Rear-Inner-Front-Inner-BECK-ARNLEY-103-2513-/291549189189?hash=item43e1af9445:g:tC0AAOSwgQ9V3e8 S&vxp=mtr Found this listing and a good beck and arnley pn :werd:

[derek king]

This thread should be cleaned and sticky'd. Good info

[ixfxi]

Only prob is that I wanted to keep with OEM since i know these boots will last decades. I have a hard time buying aftermarket. I am going to look into Japan market and see what I come up with

[ixfxi]

Wanted to bump this thread and see if anyone has rear axle lengths for the R32/R33/R34 Skyline, for both GTR and non-GTR. This would be useful info to add to this thread.

[2muchboost]

Just curious....has anyone tried these out? Feedback on the setup?

http://villainsdrift.bigcartel.com/product/z33-axle-stub-for-s13-diff

[brndck]

Just curious....has anyone tried these out? Feedback on the setup?

http://villainsdrift.bigcartel.com/product/z33-axle-stub-for-s13-diff

/\/\/\/\ I have these, and imo they're the best option available to solve this problem. Villains has very good customer service as well, plus, they'll give you a discount if you can send them multiple sets of stub axles.

[2muchboost]

@BRN...thanks for the info bud. What diff setup are you running if you dont mind me asking. I found 2 sets of Z32tt axles but the going rate for them has more than tripled since I last picked up my 3.54 diff setup.

[brndck]

@BRN...thanks for the info bud. What diff setup are you running if you dont mind me asking. I found 2 sets of Z32tt axles but the going rate for them has more than tripled since I last picked up my 3.54 diff setup.

carbonetics 1.5way, s13 pumpkin w/s14 greddy rear cover (s14 subframe in an s13), villains stub shafts, z33 axles, z32 uprights.

if you're running z32tt axles, make sure you use z32tt hubs too. tt and na are different spline size.

[Mister.E]

Just curious....has anyone tried these out? Feedback on the setup?

http://villainsdrift.bigcartel.com/product/z33-axle-stub-for-s13-diff


I have them on my current setup, but my car is undriveable. They looks super stout and shouldn't pose any problems. Nate's customer service was above and beyond. +1 for the Villains

Nismo 2-way in S14 diff housing
3.69 final drive
SPL solid diff bushings
OE z33 axles
Gktech rear knuckles
Contano hubs

[2muchboost]

@BRN...thank for the info. Yeah still tossing the idea around of running another 3.54 setup in the near future. Had the setup on my Zenki which was junked. This was 3-4 years ago when I picked up my setup with TT hubs but I see the price of the Z32 TT axle is getting pretty insane.

@Mister....awesome bud once again thanks for the help.

Pretty much just brain storming at this time. Would love to find another 3.54 setup if I decide to go FI with the next frankenstein build but if not just looking at other options that will provide similar strength. I never really did any drifting (on purpose) as most of my projects have been built for street and straight line action.

[ixfxi]

https://images.bigcartel.com/product_images/180386339/unnamed_(5).jpg?auto=format&fit=max&w=1500

thats wicked. i hope those parts are aligned, balanced and properly welded though.

[EnergeticPhenom]

Herb, those would be some sick options to 1.) get away from relying on the z32TT axle, and 2.) to run a non VLSD setup.

I think with all that I have put together, I maybe spent close to $1000 for everything (Z32TT hubs, Z32TT Dr. axle, Q45 Dr. Axle, Non ABS S13 Pumpkin, Q45 VLSD 'I think' with the 6 Star Stub axles, and 3.69 Final drive and pinion).

[Mister.E]

thats wicked. i hope those parts are aligned, balanced and properly welded though.

This was a question I had running through my mind as well. I asked them and so far they haven't had any issues with their products. With my luck I'll probably be the first victim...:picardfp:

[2muchboost]

x2 that was my thought....everything better be perfectly spec'ed out or the first hard launch and those will become nice paper weights. Still better than the adapters I have seen around...oy vey just the thought of using them under a hard launch.

Sup Wil! Thats the thing, when I bought my 3.54 setup a few years ago I think I spent well under $450 with everything including shipping. Hell I got my first Z32TT axle for under $100 shipped from Washington State to NY. BTW if you are using the Z32TT axles and Hubs then you have the 3.54. The 3.69 (later q45 vlsd) is 5 bolt and the 3.54 (earlier q45) is 6 bolt...the 5 bolt is not compatible with Z32TT Hubs.

Luckily I have some time to brainstorm but will keep up with this thread and those stubs for sure. I have been reviewing a few of the drag forums on FB to see what they are using. Since my cars have always been used in the street I could never see myself using a solid rear end enjoying it.

[ixfxi]

someone should check these for runout and that they are perpendicular and centered.

and welded with a mig, no less. crazy!

[Busta]

Very nice for the villains stubs didnt know about these until now. I get the vibes about concerns on balance and proper welds though. What exactly you guys use for hubs z33 or s13/s14 ?

[Mister.E]

someone should check these for runout and that they are perpendicular and centered.

and welded with a mig, no less. crazy!


If you guys know anyone in vegas that can perform these checks, I'll gladly take my stubs to their shop.

[ixfxi]

i imagine that any competent machine shop should be able to check that

[Mister.E]

i imagine that any competent machine shop should be able to check that


Ah I'll look around, but if anyone has a contact that'll hook it up free of charge, let me know. The diff will be going into the car soon and I'm not concerned enough to pay someone to check it. Unfortunately I don't have any machine shop contacts of my own.

[ixfxi]

^ cheap fuck syndrome

[Freddy]

Garret over at get nuts offer the same service and balanced

https://www.instagram.com/p/BFaPRPHEvU8/?taken-by=garretnuts&hl=en

[Mister.E]

^ cheap fuck syndrome


Eat shit. I don't care enough to go get it done. If it was a major concern of mine then I wouldn't have purchased them in the first place. You guys seemed to want some info and I was willing to help since I have the parts in my possession. Since you are such an angry cunt, though, you can fuck off.

[ixfxi]

If you can afford to buy those stubs, then you can afford to buy a machinist friend a 12 pack of beer.

I wouldnt be busting your balls if you didnt specify FREE in your post. Quit being a cheap fuck.

[Mister.E]

I can afford it, but I don't have any machinist friends. The biggest problem is that I don't have time and honestly I'm not that concerned about the runout and balance considering their track record so far. If I had more time I'd look into finding someone in Vegas that is competent. Between juggling work, my wife's night schooling, and taking care of my two daughters (less than six years old), I honestly don't have the time. I am busy enough seven days a week that I can barely even work on the car.

I was offering to do it if someone already had a contact because it would make my life a whole lot easier given my current situation. I suppose I'll be a little more cautious next time when attempting to assist people in getting information that honestly makes no difference to me.

[rcefoonia]

can you please give me a good user first hand experience?http://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/18.gifhttp://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/2.gif
http://onlinemarketingou.com/apple/images/1.gif

[rcefoonia]

I wouldnt be busting your balls if you didnt specify FREE in your post. Quit being a cheap fuck. http://goo.gl/dK3BAI

[rbs14kouki]

Your in Vegas just go see Garret at GetNuts he makes them for 350$

[Mister.E]

LMAO

I already have stubs. Garret can keep his stubs.

[TheRealSy90]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with mig welds. Stop thinking that.

The get nuts stubs are not always available either. Only when they aren't busy doing other stuff. And theres a significant price difference when neither is more functional or better than the other.

[Mister.E]

Fuck, I just don't like Garret, that's all.

[ixfxi]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with mig welds. Stop thinking that.

except mig sucks shit

[TheRealSy90]

How? Mig welds are no weaker than tig if done properly. Fuck even stick welding can be just as good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[brndck]

except mig sucks shit

ha. yeahhhhhhhhh thank you for voicing an absolutely incorrect bit of information.

[frizzle]

Interesting.....

[NorcalAP2]

I think 03-07 350z axles are 29 spline, 08 changed to 32 I believe... i didnt count them but they didnt fit into my s14 hubs. Also the 08 axles have threads on the axle flange itself.

[TheRealSy90]

Interesting, didn't think the hub splines would change. Have to keep that in mind when I order z axles.

[LuckyX2]

I think 03-07 350z axles are 29 spline, 08 changed to 32 I believe... i didnt count them but they didnt fit into my s14 hubs. Also the 08 axles have threads on the axle flange itself.

Can we get a confirmation on this?

If this is true, it would be perfect for someone like me with Z32TT hubs and the Q45/Z32TT axle combo. No more searching for rare Z32TT axles, just use 08+ Z33 axles on both sides with the Z32TT hubs. Would be the new best option for OEM axles assuming it's as strong as the Q45/Z32TT axles. Q45/Z32TT axles are also threaded on the 6x1 flange, it'd be a direct drop in.

[NorcalAP2]

Can we get a confirmation on this?

If this is true, it would be perfect for someone like me with Z32TT hubs and the Q45/Z32TT axle combo. No more searching for rare Z32TT axles, just use 08+ Z33 axles on both sides with the Z32TT hubs. Would be the new best option for OEM axles assuming it's as strong as the Q45/Z32TT axles. Q45/Z32TT axles are also threaded on the 6x1 flange, it'd be a direct drop in.

I have a set of 08 axles at home. I can count the splines tonight. the OD of the splines on the 240sx and 05 350z axles I measured at 29mm in diameter. The 08 are 32mm in diameter. One of the problems you may run into or that can be a hassle is that the axle side is threaded. You would need to fit the bolt through the stub closest to the diff side. The bolt head would be facing the center of the diff if you get what i mean

[KiLLeR2001]

Hate to burst everyone's bubble, but all 350Z axles are the same, through all years. NorcalAP2, you may have G35 axles from a 2008, they are different than the 350z axles but I'm not sure how yet. They have different part numbers.

I have yet to look into 370Z/G37 axle configuration.

[NorcalAP2]

Hate to burst everyone's bubble, but all 350Z axles are the same, through all years. NorcalAP2, you may have G35 axles from a 2008, they are different than the 350z axles but I'm not sure how yet. They have different part numbers.

I have yet to look into 370Z/G37 axle configuration.

That could very well be it. Thank you for letting us know!

[az_240]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=629291
Somebody buy these... it's a much better solution. Will slide into any open diff style splined LSD and can use 5 bolt J30 or JDM S13/GTST R32 axles.

[KiLLeR2001]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=629291
Somebody buy these... it's a much better solution. Will slide into any open diff style splined LSD and can use 5 bolt J30 or JDM S13/GTST R32 axles.

Those are the same 29-spline 5-bolt VLSD output shafts the Z32 N/A used before they switched to the dual ABS rings style.

[LuckyX2]

Hate to burst everyone's bubble, but all 350Z axles are the same, through all years. NorcalAP2, you may have G35 axles from a 2008, they are different than the 350z axles but I'm not sure how yet. They have different part numbers.

I have yet to look into 370Z/G37 axle configuration.

That could very well be it. Thank you for letting us know!

Well whether it's 350z/370z/G35, I'd really appreciate any info you guys can find. If I ever break a Z32TT axle (it's a possibility autocrossing with 335 Hoosiers...) it would be great to find a modern replacement.

[TheRealSy90]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=629291
Somebody buy these... it's a much better solution. Will slide into any open diff style splined LSD and can use 5 bolt J30 or JDM S13/GTST R32 axles.
Idk about better. Not exactly as easy to find jdm s13/gtst r32 axles here in the states as it is to find 350z axles. Also those axles aren't any stronger than stock. the r32 gtr axles are though, but don't work with these stubs.

[rbs14kouki]

I have axles from z33 , g35 coupe and sedans and they are all the same

[codyace]

except mig sucks shit

YO momma



:kiss:



Related, but different (so that's exactly not the same, right? oh boy):

Has anyone every contacted Raxles for replacment axles? Instead of all the mix and match stuff, why can't we just have them make a strong axle (or even replacement OE grade) that fits the most common stuff?

I know on our car we destroyed everything, until Marty at Raxles made us a nice setup using a real cv inner (the Rzeppa-ish style) that mimiced a porsche style inner, and then R32 (vw) outer...best of both worlds. These are now onto their 45th or so hour of racing without a single sign of failure.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WIBOC6YBD4eNqsgX9bDdWgb2Jhew6JpVGhv2VCTgpjvM1xIcaL S4rn8RTT2Q_ECj7HlaaLF4C9uUCYd46lAaKQ-odnC8PilwCPryVrbX_ixJVPQbkRrfex3CKhojIw7XVBShqU5vo KDeUO3cVtU0L66SYMqDpZaGC-Y2lC3V_tw-mA6Bmw9LRCz6gwG-OVbpDLN_9WFVN7aCcVM0-32V6IQS_mcZSch-jXtN5p35kzhV8I8NJkxfqzoLgEF1CjVUpNNsfxYw9Xkl6P_UoQ 9ZhwfU_CEtrrCykSZlaWEZhlY_4GRMGNHFVNjHCjBU46yo469N HekalVkqu9yAOALJDQ7WlXrQq4F87QJlo1xhjxj__RPjMA-jneUeYpWBCfKUzLlWGZNFxpJRqL5zjxeM6gPeRlYVPG-4pIlQd4KDvqRA5vmUPAAyPB0uQRAuxD0susfJHp7CNVlzC7UBL OILT34-vT0FhKPGzoc_O1ZfBgHWdEmC_pwoAOel6whRNyJ2moMrSN3qJD wuOJUvr7Mq7orj96dwcQggPzBd6-je7gZN0pMFNhKeIz6OWX0rZ3VRDpGOcz58O6gORpHlE_Onzmxh SDAuGyzk=w1600-h900-no

[PoorMans180SX]

YO momma



:kiss:



Related, but different (so that's exactly not the same, right? oh boy):

Has anyone every contacted Raxles for replacment axles? Instead of all the mix and match stuff, why can't we just have them make a strong axle (or even replacement OE grade) that fits the most common stuff?

I know on our car we destroyed everything, until Marty at Raxles made us a nice setup using a real cv inner (the Rzeppa-ish style) that mimiced a porsche style inner, and then R32 (vw) outer...best of both worlds. These are now onto their 45th or so hour of racing without a single sign of failure.



I've never heard of Raxles, but this sounds like a good solution to me, so long as they are not ridiculous price wise. One issue I can forsee is that some of us need a touch longer axle to not stretch the boots, but that seems a simple problem with a simple solution.

DSS wants to charge a lot of money for such things.

[PoorMans180SX]

I just called them and they said they DO NOT do Nissan axles of any kind. Odd since they have Maxima axles listed in their customer car section.

[codyace]

I just called them and they said they DO NOT do Nissan axles of any kind. Odd since they have Maxima axles listed in their customer car section.

Oh no shit! I just figured he did them all. That freakin SUCKS!


Edit: I figured they just did as I know they did Maxima stuff at one point (as I owned a Maxima)

[NorcalAP2]

I've never heard of Raxles, but this sounds like a good solution to me, so long as they are not ridiculous price wise. One issue I can forsee is that some of us need a touch longer axle to not stretch the boots, but that seems a simple problem with a simple solution.

DSS wants to charge a lot of money for such things.

GKtech does make an axle spacer but not from the diff side, it would be from the hub side. they offer it in different lengths too. this would help not stretch your boots
http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v2-axle-spacers-5mm-10mm-or-15mm.html

just slip it onto the axle before you put them in if all you need to is to compress the boot a bit. They do note that with the 10mm and bigger spacer, you will need to either drill the nut for the cotter pin or use an appropriate thread locking compound.

[unndat]

how do these compare to DSS 1000hp axles? is it the same design but stronger material? or a better design overall? http://goo.gl/jexrVP

[PoorMans180SX]

I decided to go with the "OEM swapable parts" route and put a Q45 VLSD into my S13 pumpkin. Let me tell you, it is not a simple ring swap.

1. The Q45 ring gear is thicker, so when you bolt the R200 ring gear to the Q45 vlsd, the diff needs re-shimming to have proper engagment.

2. The Q45 diff uses smaller hardware to bolt the ring gear on, so you need expensive Nismo S15 bolts to bolt the ring gear on properly. I re-used the S13 hardware because I decided IDGAF and I'm going to change to the Villians stubs and a proper diff eventually.

3. The Q45 stubshafts don't fit correctly after that. The long shaft doesn't seat all the way into the diff, and needs to be machined so it sits at an acceptable level. I machined .25" down to the shaft OD, and the metal shield just covers the axle seal. Hopefully this works, but I'd recommend doing .5". I'm going to measure freeplay after I install the axles, and I may or may not have to machine the extra down.

http://i.imgur.com/uTWDUqRh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pr5xTZFh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1ZX6JErh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jd52ERhh.jpg

[jaysgottaredtop]

All of that for a viscous?

[PoorMans180SX]

All of that for a viscous?



It's for the axles. I put it together before I knew about the villians guys. The vlsd is getting welded.

[Razi]

Shit. I was hoping I could swap my Nismo LSD into a Q45 pumpkin, but I guess that's out the window.

[ixfxi]

NA Z32 / Early J30 Rear Axle INNER BOOTS appear to be discontinued and NLA

Does anyone have a source for these?

Inner Boot PN: 39741-03P27
Outer Boot PN: 39241-73L28

I am totally bummed about this.

Update: Since I was only able to acquire the OEM outer boots for the J30 axles, I shelved the outer boots and left everything alone and installed the axles as-is. Months later, our S14 was involved in a collision (parted out and scrapped) and when pulling the axles, the inner boot split.

I just finished refurbishing the axles about a week ago: OEM outer boots and Beck Arnley (PN=103-2513) inner boots. As you would expect, the aftermarket boots are not as high quality (not as thick) but, they were the only boots available.

[buddhamonk]

Update: maverick motorsports announced their new adapter solid bushings to mount a 350z diff on an s14/s15 subframe

[EnergeticPhenom]

Update: maverick motorsports announced their new adapter solid bushings to mount a 350z diff on an s14/s15 subframe

So basically we have an option to buy 1.5 and 2 way for 350z, and utilize their axles?

Think I need to reread through this again. Thought there was no difference in axle strength between j30 and 350z, just more availability?

[shaggyjake]

I emailed Villains today about their z33 conversion stubs. They said they are balanced to be safe up to 200 MPH. Any faster and the axle will tear apart. Seems like a good deal. I'll most likely go this route as I already have a HLSD installed in my s13 pumpkin and a spare s15 pumpkin with 3.69 gears. not to mention that OEM 350z axles will be much easier to come by, at least for a few more years.

[brndck]

So basically we have an option to buy 1.5 and 2 way for 350z, and utilize their axles?

Think I need to reread through this again. Thought there was no difference in axle strength between j30 and 350z, just more availability?
z33 axles are plentiful and cheap. I paid $120 shipped for both sides, off ebay. j30 are getting hard to come by, and are obv going to be much older than z33/g35

I emailed Villains today about their z33 conversion stubs. They said they are balanced to be safe up to 200 MPH. Any faster and the axle will tear apart. Seems like a good deal. I'll most likely go this route as I already have a HLSD installed in my s13 pumpkin and a spare s15 pumpkin with 3.69 gears. not to mention that OEM 350z axles will be much easier to come by, at least for a few more years.
so far I have yet to hear any one have any issues with villains stubs. other than garrett from GetNuts crying about it on IG, claiming the "oh we did it first so every one else must suck" even though I emailed/PM/DM GetNuts over many months and never got any reply. Villains turnaround time was SUPER quick, and their communication is excellent.

[d_nice]

good thread here

[TheRealSy90]

I tried to get getnuts first and didn't get a response a while back.


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[Initial Drift]

Unless I am missing something, those conversion stubs don't look particularly complicated. Looks like a cut mild steel flange welded to the remainder of an axle stub.

I am not dissing their product because I know a lot of people don't have the means to make this themselves . Just that it looks like with fairly common tools and a little know how, these could be made not bought.

[grimm199]

Has anyone used the Maverick Z/G diff conversion bushings yet? Plan on picking up an open Z diff to run the axles and swap ring gear and pinion for the 4.08. I used to be much lower but would destroy axles, so i raised the car a good inch and i am still killing axles with 18s and minimal camber. Then again, remanned axles are straight garbage.
https://www.maverick-motorsports.com/products/350z-370z-conversion-bushings

[travon47]

Has anyone used the Maverick Z/G diff conversion bushings yet? Plan on picking up an open Z diff to run the axles and swap ring gear and pinion for the 4.08. I used to be much lower but would destroy axles, so i raised the car a good inch and i am still killing axles with 18s and minimal camber. Then again, remanned axles are straight garbage.
https://www.maverick-motorsports.com/products/350z-370z-conversion-bushings

I dont think you can swap ring and pinions between the diffs. I could be wrong, but why wouldn't you just do the villians stubs on stock diff? Makes no sense to do z33 diff just to go back to 4.08 especially when you have to either get adjustable rlca to make up for the half inch wider the z/g diff and axles run or get the villians stubs for the z/g diff as well.

[grimm199]

Yeah I just figured that out..... took both diffs apart and saw the huge difference in ring gear size and the punkin size. Didn't plan on staying 4.08 forever, as I was going to drop it down to a 3.6 once my VQ swap is done. But now it seems the best option would be to do the stubs, or get a Q45 diff and do magic to it. Just didn't want to try and weld a vlsd. I just want 350z axles damnit lol

[1on1]

Perfect. I thought about going this route but couldn't get any info about swapping the final drive; besides z1 motorsports.

[TheRealSy90]

You CAN get a 4.08 that's meant to bolt into a Z33 differential.


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[travon47]

You CAN get a 4.08 that's meant to bolt into a Z33 differential.


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You definitely can, but they are around $600. If you plan on staying 4.08 a z33/g35 diff just makes no sense. Get the custom axle stubs and be done, way less headaches and money.

[deolio]

if anyone was wondering the length difference between z33 and s13. top and bottom are z.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c400/mexfoodisgood/s13%20twotoner/C76CC3FF-404E-4CBD-9276-405AAC76A299_zpshxex1t0j.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/mexfoodisgood/media/s13%20twotoner/C76CC3FF-404E-4CBD-9276-405AAC76A299_zpshxex1t0j.jpg.html)

currently attempting to do the swap with villains stubs but my stock ones appear to be seized in my diff (welded :-/)

[shaggyjake]

if anyone was wondering the length difference between z33 and s13. top and bottom are z.



currently attempting to do the swap with villains stubs but my stock ones appear to be seized in my diff (welded :-/)


Would mind posting up pics comparing the villains stubs to the stock stubs?

[deolio]

Would mind posting up pics comparing the villains stubs to the stock stubs?

if i could get them out of the diff i would...

[pacotaco345]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/3a8915fa2b81b2e8503e5b5ddc1129cd.jpg

So that happened to me on Saturday. I was going to rebuild both my axles and toss them back in but I think I might have lost one of the springs when it happened and I obviously don't know in what orientation the CV came out of the socket... looking at the fsm for rebuilding they both seem pretty important. Are there any aftermarket axles people have had luck with? I had autozone ones before and they clunked since day 1. These were OEM and more or less silent until the day they gave up the ghost.


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[jaysgottaredtop]

^ Same. My Advance/Autozone/whatever bullshit axle lasted exactly 24 miles and half a drift lap, clicking away the whole time, until internally shearing a CV joint. What a waste of time. Threw a spare stock one back in and I've been ok since.

Btw, I still have some random bits from the first stock axle I broke years ago. I have a spring that fell out. Holler if you want me to toss it in a USPS baggie and send it your way. I have no use for it, just never felt like throwing it away.

[pacotaco345]

^ Same. My Advance/Autozone/whatever bullshit axle lasted exactly 24 miles and half a drift lap, clicking away the whole time, until internally shearing a CV joint. What a waste of time. Threw a spare stock one back in and I've been ok since.

Btw, I still have some random bits from the first stock axle I broke years ago. I have a spring that fell out. Holler if you want me to toss it in a USPS baggie and send it your way. I have no use for it, just never felt like throwing it away.

I'll take em! Shoot me a pm :kiss:

[joshchewuhh]

Anyone have luck with the megan "high quality" silicon boots? I keep ripping boots and don't wanna spend the $100 on the megans only for them to rip up again.

[rv_zenki]

Hey guys, so i have a kaaz 1.5 way that is not is the car yet. its a 30 spline diff which seems weird to me. Were there any S14s, USDM or JDM, that came 30 spline?

[KiLLeR2001]

30 spline can be found in S14 produced 12/96+, same goes for the J30 produced 12/96+.

[rv_zenki]

That includes USDM im assuming?

[KiLLeR2001]

That includes USDM im assuming?

Yes that is correct

[rv_zenki]

Are the j30 ones the same length and everything? Would they fit?

[anti tyler]

Are the j30 ones the same length and everything? Would they fit?


If I'm not mistaken and I probably am, but I thought I heard from someone that the J30 ones were like a mere 1CM shorter. or maybe it was longer.

[bathingsuitarea]

Anyone have luck with the megan "high quality" silicon boots? I keep ripping boots and don't wanna spend the $100 on the megans only for them to rip up again.

i have the megan boots on my s14. they are good quality silicone boots and include what seems to be good axle grease, however, the clamps included with them to hold them to the axle seemed kinda weak. i work at a dealer and just used a set of factory BMW axle boot clamps for a better hold.

i have only driven a few thousand miles on them but my car is slammed and i do lots of burnouts/brakestands/drifting/autox with the car and they have held up fine. at least as good as OEM if not better.

[JimmBooost]

I emailed Villains today about their z33 conversion stubs. They said they are balanced to be safe up to 200 MPH. Any faster and the axle will tear apart. Seems like a good deal. I'll most likely go this route as I already have a HLSD installed in my s13 pumpkin and a spare s15 pumpkin with 3.69 gears. not to mention that OEM 350z axles will be much easier to come by, at least for a few more years.

Any update with Villains stubs? Buzzing around this thread, read through it all. Might be considering z33/34 I'll research on length. My setup (z34 cdX trans w/ S15 R 48:13 HLSD)

[kkaleher]

I just picked up a 3.69 q45 5bolt diff for my s13 2j w/370z trans. I was hoping to run the 93 j30 5bolt axles but I cant find them anywhere. No part stores even list them, except Napa who says they are back ordered and not sure if they can even get them. No salvage yards in my area have them either :( sooooo can I swap to the earlier q45 2x6 bolt output shafts and run 2x6bolt j30 axles or even just my stock 240 axles for now? Or are the j30 2x6 bolt axles not worth it? Ive been reading through all these damn threads and im still confused. Sorry if im just dumb

[KiLLeR2001]

I just picked up a 3.69 q45 5bolt diff for my s13 2j w/370z trans. I was hoping to run the 93 j30 5bolt axles but I cant find them anywhere. No part stores even list them, except Napa who says they are back ordered and not sure if they can even get them. No salvage yards in my area have them either :( sooooo can I swap to the earlier q45 2x6 bolt output shafts and run 2x6bolt j30 axles or even just my stock 240 axles for now? Or are the j30 2x6 bolt axles not worth it? Ive been reading through all these damn threads and im still confused. Sorry if im just dumb

What you can do is run 6x1 output shafts (30 spline) into your q45 diff and get 350z axles. I do have 6x1 shafts available for sale.

[kkaleher]

What you can do is run 6x1 output shafts (30 spline) into your q45 diff and get 350z axles. I do have 6x1 shafts available for sale.

Do the 350z axles fit into the hubs? or would I also need z32tt/q45 hubs?

[KiLLeR2001]

350z use the same spline count as stock 240sx/J30 axles.

[2muchboost]

Ok so after reading all of the threads here I think it is all finally making sense. So if you wanted to use the early Q45 3.54 diff you could use stock S14 hubs with 350z axles that will increase the wheel base a minimal amount?

Cant believe its basically impossible or very expensive to attain a Z32 TT Drivers Side Axle these days. I remember paying $90 shipped for one from Cali to NY and thinking that was expensive haha. The good ol'days.

[[email protected]]

I recently did a z32 gearbox swap in my sr20 equiped s13 using a mazworx adapter plate. I completely overhauled the rear suspension and drivetrain as well using a r32 gt-r diff housing with cusco adjustable 1.5/2 way lsd and r32 gt-r axles and hubs.

Doing measurements I found that a stock z32 (2+2) driveshaft has exactly the correct length. Because the driveshaft support bearing position is completely different opted for an off the shelf aftermarket 1 piece z32 driveshaft, fits perfect.

diff/driveshaft connection on the z32 and r32 gt-r is exactly the same and a lot beefier than the s13's, see below for comparison:
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y473/Ronjohnalex/s13z32%20comparison_zpse0rpa3ww.jpg

r32 Gt-r diff, axles and hubs
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y473/Ronjohnalex/P1020230_zpsdwzajbnm.jpg

s13 rear diff housing fitted
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y473/Ronjohnalex/RIMG0035_zpsrpzhfuhy.jpg

Ready to go into the car
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y473/Ronjohnalex/RIMG0054_zps7qc4xcgi.jpg

[TheRealSy90]

Wtf upper control arm/traction rod thing do you have going on there?
Unfortunately 32gtr stuff isn't common in the states.


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[[email protected]]

Manatee racing: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/item.php?category=suspension&subcat=Rods%20and%20Control%20Arms&brand=MANATEE+Racing&series=&name=Pillowball+Pipe+Arm+Set&carcode=S13H&fromlink=1
They eliminate the bushings in the knuckle and indeed combine upper control arm and traction rod

[KiLLeR2001]

Cant believe its basically impossible or very expensive to attain a Z32 TT Drivers Side Axle these days. I remember paying $90 shipped for one from Cali to NY and thinking that was expensive haha. The good ol'days.

I don't ever remember OEM axles being that cheap, sounds unlikely. Unless you are talking about remanufactured. I still have a BNIB OEM Z32TT driver side axle I will probably try to display around the house somewhere as art, haha.

[kkaleher]

Will 97-01 q45 5bolt axles work the same as getting j30 5 bolt axles? They have the same spline count for the hub and look pretty similar.

[kkaleher]

^

Here are some lengths from that thread. I have some R32 GTST axles I can include to this list when I get around to measuring them.

S13 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
S14 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
J30 left - 23-3/8" compressed, 24-1/2" relaxed (early J30)
350Z left - 23-7/8" compressed, 24-3/4" relaxed
Z32NA left - 24-3/8" compressed, 25-1/2" relaxed
Q45 left - 25-1/8" compressed, 26" relaxed (early Q45)

S13 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
S14 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
J30 right - 25-1/4" compressed, 26-1/8" relaxed
350Z right - 25-1/2" compressed, 26-3/8" relaxed
Z32NA right - 26" compressed, 26-7/8" relaxed
Q45 right - 27" compressed, 27-7/8" relaxed

After looking at different parts websites I found the later 97-01 q45 (that has the 5bolt 3.69 diff) has shorter axles than the earlier (6bolt) diff. And they are apparently 29 spline, with rzeppa joints.

97 Q45 right- 24-3/4" compressed
97 Q45 left- 23-7/8" compressed

These seem close enough to work if you are running a later Q45 diff

[kkaleher]

Picked up some 97-01 q45 axles, I'm going to try to install them tomorrow with the 97-01 q45 diff I got.

[JimmBooost]

Sooooo... where are you guys sourcing your s14 OE axles from?? I'm building another subframe, looking for OE axles for now.

Thanks

[kkaleher]

Well NM on the 97-01 q45 axles fitting with a 97-01 q45 diff. The pass side axle is too long :(

[epik1]

Guys who are using the Villains stubs, are you using OEM axles? or OE aftermarket axles ok?

[LANcer06]

Anyone try a Q45 diff with R33 GTR axles and hubs on a S14?

[2muchboost]

Adding another inquiry here, anyone try the DSS Q45 Driver Side Axle mod services? If this is a viable option it would be a sigh of relief over trying to find a Z32TT Drive Side Axle.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/240sx/nissan-1989-1998-240sx-550hp-bar-upgrade-2193

@Killer....I used to find Z32TT Axles for under $150 shipped all day but I am talking about years ago. Been in the game for a long time. When Underground Racing put out that article with instructions on how to perform the 3.54 swap they were still available at a reasonable price. But I understand supply and demand.

[deolio]

4.3 plated+welded with villains stub shafts and z33 axles. feels AMAZING. nice not worrying about the rear end. fit perfeeectt

http://i.imgur.com/TuNlxvC.jpg

[da_crew10]

4.3 plated+welded with villains stub shafts and z33 axles. feels AMAZING. nice not worrying about the rear end. fit perfeeectt



So what do these stub shafts and z33 axles differ from factory components in terms of performance?

[jaysgottaredtop]

^

S13/S14 axles have tripod CV joints. Prone to break at higher power levels, and don't last as long at extreme angles seen when lowering the car.

Z33 axles have Rzeppa (inventor's last name, pronounced CHEP-uh) CV joints. Can hold power reliably and are more capable of handling extreme angles compared to tripods.

S13/S14 and Z33 have different bolt patterns, so the stub shaft has a Z33 pattern flange welded on.

No additional performance, power wise. Just more reliable.

[da_crew10]

Thank you so much^, this plus a one piece drive shaft and a 2 way differential will be my next big investment.

[anthony_240]

^

S13/S14 axles have tripod CV joints. Prone to break at higher power levels, and don't last as long at extreme angles seen when lowering the car.

Z33 axles have Rzeppa (inventor's last name, pronounced CHEP-uh) CV joints. Can hold power reliably and are more capable of handling extreme angles compared to tripods.

S13/S14 and Z33 have different bolt patterns, so the stub shaft has a Z33 pattern flange welded on.

No additional performance, power wise. Just more reliable.



So the z33 axles have the same spline count?


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[joshg51]

For the axle to the wheel hub yes. You only to to change/modify the output shaft from the diff for this to work.

[spooled240]

Bumping this up. Does anyone have any recommendations for QUALITY 240sx axles? The cheap reman's at the local parts stores are garbage and most used OEM axles are very worn by now. I'm not super low or putting down high horsepower.

[KiLLeR2001]

Best bet is some OEM Infiniti J30 3x2 axles. Those cars don't see the abuse your typical 240sx would, so usually the axles are still in good shape.

-OR-

Convert to a 6x1 diff setup and run OEM Z33 350Z axles.

[spooled240]

I dunno man, the J30 axles are still 20+ years old lol I'm kinda done with original Nissan axles. I can never seem to find a good pair without any play.

Has anyone had any experience with reman'd rzeppa axles? I would imagine those holding up to more power and funky operating angles a lot better than the reman'd tripods. Thinking about running an S15 HLSD with R34 GTT output shafts(5-bolt HLSD) and reman'd 5-bolt J30 axles(rzeppa).

[ixfxi]

Thinking about running an S15 HLSD with R34 GTT output shafts(5-bolt HLSD) and reman'd 5-bolt J30 axles(rzeppa).

Thats what I run. Problem is finding the output shafts and the axles, not nearly as easy as it once was. Plus, NISSAN has discontinued some of the axle boots. You can still get aftermarket, but for us OEM sticklers - that really sucks, its a big kick in the nuts from NISSAN.

[spooled240]

Thats what I run. Problem is finding the output shafts and the axles, not nearly as easy as it once was. Plus, NISSAN has discontinued some of the axle boots. You can still get aftermarket, but for us OEM sticklers - that really sucks, its a big kick in the nuts from NISSAN.I was a afraid of hearing that. Looks like converting to 6x1 to use z33 axles really is the best scenario if you want the availability of bulletproof oem axles..

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[Luvs2slide]

Planning on going with the newer steel Maverick Motorsports s chassis axle adapters to 350z along of course with the z axles. Anyone have any issues with these yet? I don't have extended Rear LCAs and don't plan to get some. I currently have solid subframe and diff bushings along with ISR ruca and toe rods. Looks like the adapters will extended the axle length approx 3/8 inch in addition to the length of each axle. Plan yo go about 1.5 - 2 inches lower but not slammed and as near 0 camber as possible.

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[dr_]

bump.

^curious as well. I was thinking of saving almost 100 bones with the adapters, but it seems like villians is the way to go. my car is pretty low and rear camber is zeroed out so i think I could run them, but i think i'd be better off not having to factor in the geometry change.

[JimmBooost]

bump.

^curious as well. I was thinking of saving almost 100 bones with the adapters, but it seems like villians is the way to go. my car is pretty low and rear camber is zeroed out so i think I could run them, but i think i'd be better off not having to factor in the geometry change.

You’re installing a major part that rotates constantly, I wouldn’t want an adapter compensating for bigger axles. Villains 6x1 bolt stubs is what you want.

[TheRealSy90]

Planning on going with the newer steel Maverick Motorsports s chassis axle adapters to 350z along of course with the z axles. Anyone have any issues with these yet? I don't have extended Rear LCAs and don't plan to get some. I currently have solid subframe and diff bushings along with ISR ruca and toe rods. Looks like the adapters will extended the axle length approx 3/8 inch in addition to the length of each axle. Plan yo go about 1.5 - 2 inches lower but not slammed and as near 0 camber as possible.

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I installed those adapters with Z axles when my car was slammed, tucking rim on 17's with 0 camber. The axles were still too compressed and the CV's broke when I backed out of the driveway. You HAVE to extend the rear track width to run them.

[2muchboost]

So question for those of you rocking the 350z axles with either the 350z/Armada and/or early Q45 (3.54 ratio) diff setup, what kind of power are you putting down? And how long have you had your setup? I am leaning more and more in this direction but there isnt much info out there regarding what power these setups can handle. Not into the drifting scene so I am more interested in those using the setup for straight-line type events.

[TheRealSy90]

They will hold more power than any 240sx components will.

[2muchboost]

For sure, just based off the design they are better suited to hold down some power. I am just wondering how much power in relation to my old Z32tt/Q45 3.54 setup. As we all know the Z32tt axles are a commodity so I am wondering if this will hold down the power on a slightly mild turbo LSx build. I see that people have installed the setup but there isnt much info regarding what type of driving they do and what power levels they are at.

Also interested to see if anyone has any feedback regarding this configuration:
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan-1989-1998-240sx-550hp-bar-upgrade-2337


Trying to find a suitable answer without trying to find a $400+ Z32tt axle if possible.

[Kingtal0n]

So please help me understand,

All I have to do is:
1. get s14 350z diff bushings from 'maverick'
2. get 06 350z 3.357 6-bolt differential
3. get 350z axles

and this works? Axles are the correct length and the driveshaft angle is the same?

[2muchboost]

According to what I have been reading yes. Just wondering how strong this setup is in comparison to the Z32 tt axle & Q45 3.54 diff setup since the 3.54 setup has a larger spline count. It still seems the design of the 350z setup has been holding up pretty well.

There is a dude Zamiel Jesse on FB running the same setup. Only difference is that he is running the CD009. Might want to hit him up.

[TheRealSy90]

So please help me understand,

All I have to do is:
1. get s14 350z diff bushings from 'maverick'
2. get 06 350z 3.357 6-bolt differential
3. get 350z axles

and this works? Axles are the correct length and the driveshaft angle is the same?

I've heard that the differential ends up being lower in the subframe with the adapter bushings than the S13/14 diff is. You have to modify and widen the front mounting area like Stewart Leask did ages ago if you want to maintain the same differential height.

The driveshaft angle should be fine as long as it stays parallel to the transmission output. If the differential is tilted forward with the adapter bushings then that is no good.

[rv_zenki]

Do J30 axles fit S14s?

[Kingtal0n]

So I found a couple interesting things

1. In rockauto they sell a 300zx turbo driver axle for $90. Is this the unicorn axle? Whats the catch?
NI8399 is the brand new Q45 driver side axle
and
NI8467 is the 300zx Twin Turbo axle Driver side

ATM my plan is email(ed already) the axle company (trakmotive for example) ask them whether this NEW axle is strong enough like the OEM axles to support 800horsepower etc...



2. In car-part.com if you search for Q45 axles it differentiates between 90-94 and 95-96. According to every website they should all be the same 6-bolt axles for 3.54:1 ratio diffs. But car-part.com will show you MANY people have the 90-94 axle. and NOBODY has the 95-96 axle. ???


edit: I found this:
" Possible exceptions for the J30 LSD fitment (cut-and-pasted, from Asad):

From a search on www.car-part.com for a 1995 J30 VLSD...the years that come up in the interchange are:

1994-1997, with production dates "from 1/94" often given for the '94s (meaning it changed during the '94 model year)... and "Thru 6/96" given for '97 diffs (likewise, meaning it changed sometime in the '97 model year)... In addition, some of these diffs have in the comments "3.92 ratio" or something to that effect. If you search for a '97 J30 differential, you get 3 options: "Thru 6/96", "From 7/96 thru 11/96", and "From 12/96"... meaning there were actually TWO changes during the '97 model year. What those changes were...who knows???"


So... Who knows? The site that I got that from has it all wrong too. its rlly old.


update:
so here is what I wound up doing. I was able to contact "trackmotive" and asked about axle strength, and they gave me the "up to OEM standards or better" speech so I guess its worth a shot. I bought a brand new 300zx driver side axle from Ebay "trackmotive". then I bought a complete Q45 subframe from a junkyard Q45 1994. It didn't have ABS sensor in the input flange area so everything (driver side axle, hubs, and differential 3.5:1 ratio, my same driveshaft length) bolted right into my S14 240sx and I used that new driver side 300ZX axle for the driver side of the 240sx. The only 'custom mod' necessary was the drilling of the input flange of the 3.5:1 diff. I was able to keep ALL my stock arms in the rear end. Which seems like it works really well for launching this V8/4l80e on a 3.5:1 ratio

[Mobne]

I installed those adapters with Z axles when my car was slammed, tucking rim on 17's with 0 camber. The axles were still too compressed and the CV's broke when I backed out of the driveway. You HAVE to extend the rear track width to run them.

How much do you need to widen the track?
I want to be able to run 3degree camber in the rear with 350z axles and adapters. The adapters are about 15mm wide.
I’m thinking of going 25mm wider track on each side. Would this be ok?

[TheRealSy90]

How much do you need to widen the track?

I want to be able to run 3degree camber in the rear with 350z axles and adapters. The adapters are about 15mm wide.

I’m thinking of going 25mm wider track on each side. Would this be ok?



Why not run the modified 350z pattern stub shafts instead?


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[Mobne]

Because i have s15 helical diff and what I know it uses special output shafts.
And I have already bought the adapters and have all adjustable driftworks rear end.

So any ideas about how much I need to extend the track?

[Mobne]

25mm was needed to fit the axles and make it work.
Problem when widening the track with the adjustable rods is that if you mess up the tractionrod/ruca ratio bump steer gets really bad :/

[TheRealSy90]

I'd have sent off the S15 output shafts to get modified with z33 axle flanges instead.

[speedgod^s13]

Anyone here have any experience with the Insane Shafts axles? I'm thinking about buying the 500hp axles, which is about the same price for just the DSS solid bar upgrade. I know a lot of Honda guys have been running insane shafts with good results, and in a way I feel like DSS can mark up their items, due to how their brand has saturated the market, making it hard for anyone else to really come up.

[greddy2die]

So please help me understand,

All I have to do is:
1. get s14 350z diff bushings from 'maverick'
2. get 06 350z 3.357 6-bolt differential
3. get 350z axles

and this works? Axles are the correct length and the driveshaft angle is the same?

You need adjustable rear lower control arms, Maverick Motorsports replied to me & said "the axles"will be too compressed to work. You'd need about 1" extra width to make it all fit up."

Im lowered but not slammed & at -0.5 rear camber

Driveshaft wise I believe the bolt holes dont match the stub on the 350z diff so you have to drill them out to match. Length wise it doesnt change though.

I've been interested in the Z/G diff/axles etc because I have a turbo LS and want longer gearing and stronger axles but I have no plans on widening my rear track width.

[RZRSHARP_240SX]

Anyone here have any experience with the Insane Shafts axles? I'm thinking about buying the 500hp axles, which is about the same price for just the DSS solid bar upgrade. I know a lot of Honda guys have been running insane shafts with good results, and in a way I feel like DSS can mark up their items, due to how their brand has saturated the market, making it hard for anyone else to really come up.

I am running the 1000hp insane shafts right now. I’m putting just over 500whp though them and haven’t had a issue. I haven’t had a chance to track test them yet.

[speedgod^s13]

I am running the 1000hp insane shafts right now. I’m putting just over 500whp though them and haven’t had a issue. I haven’t had a chance to track test them yet.

Thanks for the feedback. My car ain't gonna be over 500whp, if it somehow does, I'd be fucking ecstatic!!! But, I used my 15% Ebay coupon, which knocked off almost $100, plus free shipping for the 500 hp insane shafts, so not a bad deal.

[e30gangsta]

Hey guys there is a g35 sedan in my local yard, I am curious if the axles off the g35 sedan will work in an s13 using the villans stub adapters. Thanks.

[rbs14kouki]

Hey guys there is a g35 sedan in my local yard, I am curious if the axles off the g35 sedan will work in an s13 using the villans stub adapters. Thanks.


yes . axles from z33 and g35 coupe / sedan are all the same … i compared all 3

[PoorMans180SX]

I'm not sure if this has been posted in here, but 370Z axles are 30 spline on the hub side and can be used with Z32/Q45 hubs.

Also Weir has finally released their chromoly Z33 conversion stubs, which are really nice. Unfortunately they're behind the times and I've only seen pictures on instagram so I can't easily upload one here.

[e30gangsta]

yes . axles from z33 and g35 coupe / sedan are all the same … i compared all 3

Thank you




Msglength

[Mobne]

How much axle in and out play is necessary to prevent overcompression/extension?

If you loosen the cv axle nut you can measure the play.

I’m currently on 15mm on the right side and 12mm on the left with 0-1degree camber.


Can anyone confirm if this is enough? Or what is the guideline on the in and out axle play.

350z diff and 350z cv axles on s14 subframe.

[Mobne]

Can anyone check this for me? :)

[TheRealSy90]

I don't think anyone has really established a tolerance for axle plunge. Just that you don't want it to sit static at either end of it's range. Hard to say what is safe.

[Mobne]

It should be pretty easy to check. Just loosen the cv axle nut and se how much in and out play it t is. :)

Please help me out!

[S13project]

s13 chassis and subframe. nismo lca. voodo adjustable arms. 18x10.5+5 wheels running around -0.5 camber. dual caliper brackets (maybe 10mm thickness at hub). os giken lsd. weir 6 bolt conversion 29 spline diff stubs. z32 tt 31 spline (or 32 cant remember) hubs. bought some q45/z32 axles locally. they are about 10-15mm shy of bolting up. wrong axles? need axle spacers? did i forget something?

[TheRealSy90]

s13 chassis and subframe. nismo lca. voodo adjustable arms. 18x10.5+5 wheels running around -0.5 camber. dual caliper brackets (maybe 10mm thickness at hub). os giken lsd. weir 6 bolt conversion 29 spline diff stubs. z32 tt 31 spline (or 32 cant remember) hubs. bought some q45/z32 axles locally. they are about 10-15mm shy of bolting up. wrong axles? need axle spacers? did i forget something?

So the Weir stubs are intended to be used with z33 axles. Probably why you're having a length issue with the shorter q45/z32 axle set.

[S13project]

So the Weir stubs are intended to be used with z33 axles. Probably why you're having a length issue with the shorter q45/z32 axle set.

was worried that was the reason. measured axles today and they are 25" and 25.5". hoping maybe i bought wrong combo. passenger side is too short and driver side is too long. unfortunately switching them didnt help me at all

[TheRealSy90]

Easy fix would be z33 axles and 5 lug s13/14 hubs.

[S13project]

Easy fix would be z33 axles and 5 lug s13/14 hubs.

Trying to stick with the 32 spline to handle my abusive nature and idiocy. Have snapped 3 or so DSS 600hp axles inside the wheel hub over past couple years. 2 while drifting and one from a 2nd gear clutch drop (my own idiocy).

Was hopeful that with the Weir chromoly diff stubs and q45/z32 axle and hub combo I could have minimal issues with rear drivetrain. Talking with the guy I bought the axles from says its possible he just grabbed the wrong pair. According to the internet (hate when it comes to that) I need 27" and 24" axles for proper fit.

Otherwise I will have an OS Giken 1.5 diff in S13 R200 with 5 and 6 bolt OEM stubs, and Weir 6 bolt stubs up for trade or sale as I will have to switch over to the GTR diff

[TheRealSy90]

Trying to stick with the 32 spline to handle my abusive nature and idiocy. Have snapped 3 or so DSS 600hp axles inside the wheel hub over past couple years. 2 while drifting and one from a 2nd gear clutch drop (my own idiocy).

At that point you'll probably start breaking off the stubs in the differential lol. Might be time to go to a z33 differential entirely?

[S13project]

At that point you'll probably start breaking off the stubs in the differential lol. Might be time to go to a z33 differential entirely?

Either that or just go full spool from Weir and just try to enjoy the wheel chirp when driving in town

[e30gangsta]

Question

So I own a 1992 rhd silvia s13 which comes with 5 bolt rear axles/output shafts and a jdm vlsd diff. The vsld is toast and I have a spare US s13 differential that has the US 3x2 output stubs on it. I have a welded diff out of a us 240sx that has 3x2 output shafts that I would like to install.

Is it possible for me to install the us 240sx welded diff and use the jdm 5 bolt axle stubs with the 5 bolt axles?

[Wykydtron]

I got some spooky noises coming from my rear end. Ordered the Villains stubs today. Hopefully my rear end holds together for NissanFest.

[S13project]

Question

So I own a 1992 rhd silvia s13 which comes with 5 bolt rear axles/output shafts and a jdm vlsd diff. The vsld is toast and I have a spare US s13 differential that has the US 3x2 output stubs on it. I have a welded diff out of a us 240sx that has 3x2 output shafts that I would like to install.

Is it possible for me to install the us 240sx welded diff and use the jdm 5 bolt axle stubs with the 5 bolt axles?

Set both pairs beside each other and check height, thickness, and spline count. As long as all those are the same then yes.

[PoorMans180SX]

Trying to stick with the 32 spline to handle my abusive nature and idiocy. Have snapped 3 or so DSS 600hp axles inside the wheel hub over past couple years. 2 while drifting and one from a 2nd gear clutch drop (my own idiocy).

Was hopeful that with the Weir chromoly diff stubs and q45/z32 axle and hub combo I could have minimal issues with rear drivetrain. Talking with the guy I bought the axles from says its possible he just grabbed the wrong pair. According to the internet (hate when it comes to that) I need 27" and 24" axles for proper fit.

Otherwise I will have an OS Giken 1.5 diff in S13 R200 with 5 and 6 bolt OEM stubs, and Weir 6 bolt stubs up for trade or sale as I will have to switch over to the GTR diff

Z34 axles are 32 spline outer and fit into Z32TT or Q45 hubs and are the length of Z33 axles.

As a side note, from my looking, it would seem that the physically strongest Nissan rear diff combo would be Z32 R230 diff, DSS 300M output shafts, Z34 axles, and Z32TT or Q45 hubs. The weak link is then the axles, which can be upgraded via DSS. Of course there are other options like Ford 9" etc.