Motor Mount Bolt Rounded S13

[6JJM6]

I have tried everything to get this motor mount bolt off and now it seems to have fused to the threads. It was rusted and the previous owner stripped it pretty bad. I just stripped it worse. Then I tried drilling it out, I tried cutting through the motor mount with a sawzall and the angle makes it almost impossible to cut though. The bolt kind of seems like it tempered when I was drilling it because now every bit I try it either breaks or dulls. I tried using a pry bar and a sledgehammer to break it and nothing works. Anyone have a good way to get it off? I'm just trying to change my motor mounts since the one that was on there was completely shot.

[bratz_729]

Maybe try to weld the socket to it


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[Chaluska]

I have tried everything to get this motor mount bolt off and now it seems to have fused to the threads. It was rusted and the previous owner stripped it pretty bad. I just stripped it worse. Then I tried drilling it out, I tried cutting through the motor mount with a sawzall and the angle makes it almost impossible to cut though. The bolt kind of seems like it tempered when I was drilling it because now every bit I try it either breaks or dulls. I tried using a pry bar and a sledgehammer to break it and nothing works. Anyone have a good way to get it off? I'm just trying to change my motor mounts since the one that was on there was completely shot.

literally fixes them EVERY SINGLE TIME

http://www.charlestool.com/Dewalt/Small%20Angle%20Grinder.jpg

[6JJM6]

literally fixes them EVERY SINGLE TIME

http://www.charlestool.com/Dewalt/Small%20Angle%20Grinder.jpg

There isn't enough room to fit a grinder in there unless I pulled the engine, I tried.

[Chaluska]

i did have to use an air chizel before on my first s13. that will also fix it.. cut the nut in half, and it will just pop off.

[import_z]

ZIP GUN MY FRIEND, a good one thought, try heating it up first

[tauntdevil]

Honestly you will probably have to pull the engine and rip the mount off so you can grind the metal down for it to pop off. Thats what we had to do to a setup that the rust had been so bad that it wouldnt come loose at all.

If you wanted to try without pulling the engine, you can try buying a hole saw kit and try drilling where the stud is so it will just be a tube instead of a washer.
If that makes sense. Basically drilling out the sides so it just slides out.

[Kingtal0n]

if you are taking the engine out, unbolt the upper part and remove the engine. that will give you room to work.

If you are just trying to fix it, obviously you need to get in there with something and damage the bolt then yank up on it with a hoist. I would have a hoist applying pressure to the engine the entire time so you know when whatever you are doing does what you intend. Just apply pressure to that side of the engine so you do not bend anything on the other side trying to pull it up. Unbolt the other side so you know where you are applying torque.

[benarovi]

find someone to weld a socket to it

[Srsil]

Get a torch iv cut 3 or 4 off that way

[babowc]

Can't you go at it from the top?...

[project7x]

take the bracket right off the motor ( i did this on the passangerside) and had to impact gun the nut off the mount. PITA but worked. at least if its on a bench you can then grind mount off the bracket. i think the 4 bolts are 14mm if i recall.

hope that helps

[5280VertDET]

Dremel, I had a similar issue.

[codyace]

take the bracket right off the motor ( i did this on the passangerside) and had to impact gun the nut off the mount. PITA but worked. at least if its on a bench you can then grind mount off the bracket. i think the 4 bolts are 14mm if i recall.

hope that helps

This is the plan of attack I'd be making as well.

[Chaluska]

if you guys look, the motor mount is stripped on the lower bolt. where it goes through the subframe. not from the top

[Mikester]

^^Right.

No way to get the mount off and onto a vise/bench.

In that tight of an area, I'd hit that shit with a Dremel until it is weak enough to break free. Those 'pointy' grinding bits Dremel has are very handy for spots like that.

[codyace]

Die grinder with a metal bur on it?

[codyace]

With that said it may but just as easy at this point to get a new subframe for 35-40 bucks and save the headache. At least they are easy to change.

[foreverdeath]

i had trouble geting that nut off when i was assembling my first 240 (got it as a shell). previous owner left the motor mounts in that were stripped had my boss cut them off with an acetylene torch. managed to no harm the subframe at all.

[carcrazee]

if u can fit some type of cutting wheel tool in there and cut the nut/stud off, then air hammer it or something to go from there, I had to do this to mine ,the exact same thing happened to me, the nut stripped on the bottem of the mount

[zurud]

long reach die grinder with carbide tip. Wear safety glass or faceshield

[fliprayzin240sx]

Did you try this?

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/tech/craftsmans-bolt-out/15982921%2Bcr1%2Bre0%2Bar1/craftsman-bolt-out-kit.jpg

[supasan]

Try a nut cracker

[Def]

Definitely weld a bolt or nut to it. Easy to reach that with a MIG welder. You don't need to go fully around it, as two good big tacks will hold since weld melt is about 80 ksi ultimate strength in reality (rated to 70, hence the ER70S6).

I had to do this to two freaking allen bolts on an S15 SR I've got for the oil block plate. Two came off nicely with the impact, the other two stripped. So I rammed a bigger torx head in there - no go, still rounded off at probably 80-90+ ft-lbs (these are M8 bolts...). I heated them up with a MAPP gas torch, nothing.

Drilled the allen head out some and welded two M8 bolts to them. First one came out real easy since I got the head red hot during welding. The second one sounded like a .22 piston going off when it finally broke free at about 120+ ft-lbs. Had some nasty aluminum to steel corrosion going on.

Moral of the story - get a $350 welder - it'll save your ass.

[codyace]

Definitely weld a bolt or nut to it. Easy to reach that with a MIG welder. You don't need to go fully around it, as two good big tacks will hold since weld melt is
....
Moral of the story - get a $350 welder - it'll save your ass.

Funny you say that, but I think we weld bolts into tranny or rear drain plugs damn near monthly to get them out of guys who had their trucks serviced elsewhere, and the mechanics cranked them in with a 1/2 breaker bar...it's just pipe thread!!!!



It's also the super sloppy pro-tip to remove broken manifold studs on LS engines :D

[redline1320]

Oxygen acetylene torch. Best bet


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[mechanicalmoron]

Consider that if you sat there with a dremel instead of making this thread, it'd have been off a long time ago. I'm sure you're right, it's tempered (or, generally, heat treated in some way). Every bolt on your car sure better be treated (incidentally, always replace bolts you blowtorch). Even drilling out exhaust bolts is a motherfucker, unless you're about to go buy a bunch of fancy stuff just go work on it.


If you have some clue how to weld, you can get a stick welder from harbor freight really cheap. Or, you can wire 2 or 3 car batteries in series, and use jumper cables as welding cables (put the electrode in a vice grip, and then attach the jumper cable to the vice grip).