Greddy 240sx Turbo kit has arrived

[jdzumwalt]

Well tonite I will start installing the greddy turbo kit for my 95 s-14. I'll give my personal opinion of this kit, versous my old f-max set up. I don't have the intercooler as the kit not carb legal yet when it does I'll show that big front mouth off. I bought my kit from Speed Alliance if you in san diego there a great shop to go to. Got in less than 1 week. I ordered on tuesday picked up today.





Gregg

[S14DRFTER]

Good Luck with the install, I just got my kit on Friday and will start on it this week. I am also putting it on a 95 240sxse, I know we will have to remap the e manage since it is setup for OBDII and ours is OBDI. But I still have to figure that all out and find maps if they are available or else go to a shop and get it setup. I also got the FMIC. Keep me posted on the install and any problems you run into and I will do the same (but you will probably have yours finished before me)

[TachyonS14]

Yes, please give info on how you like the kit because I can't get enough ;-p I plan on taking out a loan from the bank so I can be boostin.

[Ghst 01]

I am in the middle og installing the kit my self..... currently i have the car at the shop getting the oil return line done..... one word of advice be carfull when ur taking off ur header i broke my EGR pipe and now i have to wait a week or so to get another one due to it's special order item and i had to go through the dealer to get it... also make sure they sent you all the right parts especially the bolts and stuff i had to learn the hard way they sent me the wrong shit... in the middle of installing the turbine..... also GREDDY CUSTOMER SERVICE SUCKS ASS.

[jdzumwalt]

Red did this install on his 95 240. The emanage does not have to be messed with. The fuel maps are the same from 95 to 98. Just maybe a tad leaner in the later years for smog.


Gregg

[Red]

I'm not sure if I’m lean or rich... I think rich...

BUT!

I will be getting the 02 bung installed on my downpipe so I can attach my wideband and see wtf is going on with it.

[jdzumwalt]

Well Tonight I accually started. Total parts missing from the sealed box. Injector harness, vacuum three way splitter and NO instruction. (downloaded from there site)

Everything is going smooth except for the removal of the oil pan. It's a bit more involving than I originally expected.

well I'll keep everybody informed on this kit

[Ghst 01]

Well Tonight I accually started. Total parts missing from the sealed box. Injector harness, vacuum three way splitter and NO instruction. (downloaded from there site)

Everything is going smooth except for the removal of the oil pan. It's a bit more involving than I originally expected.

well I'll keep everybody informed on this kit
My kit was also missing the 3way vacume fitting too... greddy charges like $6.00 for it.... what i did was just went kragen or something and bought the plastic ones that work the same..... good luck on the injector harnesses.... greddy is probably gonna charge u a bit for them.....and in regards to the oil pan... getting it out is the easy part but putting back in is gonna be a bitch since the oil return pie hits everything... so ended up have to take my ac off in order to make it fit.

[ghostuss]

Gl with the kit. I heard nothing but bitching about the kit from the guy on top ^^^^^^^^^ ghost01. For example, " The worst piece of shit Greddy ever made."

HA :Owned:

[eyustfu]

i have spare injector harnesses if your interested, brand new still...as for my greddy kit, everything was in the box

[S14DRFTER]

I just started on my kit also (I was going to do a write-up on it here w/pics). Yesterday I started to remove the pan and realized that the entire cross member,sway bar, and tension rods must be loosed in order to get it out. (This is also what is recommended in the Tech Manual) So I will finish it tonight. So far the only thing that seems to be missing in my kit was the instructions (which I voiced in another post, and I just downloaded them from the site) so I am very pleased with it. Good luck with your install!!!!

[eyustfu]

yep, oilpan gave me the most problem too, all you have to do is un-bolt the motor mounts, take off the sway bar, and the rear mount, then jack it up from the bellhousing and it should give you enough clearance to take out the oilpan.

[jdzumwalt]

Question, on the injector install. Do you need to replace the little rubber pieces that the injectors sit in? If so my kit missing those too. It seams that the new injector are a bit too big for the factory injector holders.


Gregg

[Ghst 01]

Question, on the injector install. Do you need to replace the little rubber pieces that the injectors sit in? If so my kit missing those too. It seams that the new injector are a bit too big for the factory injector holders.


Gregg

the injectors should come with little rubber pieces that you fit in first then you put on the bigger ones that are already on the intake that go between the stock injectors and manifold. be carefull with those i droped one when i was taking off my old fuel rail and injectors and never found it... had to order one from nissan $4.00 per rubber ring

[jdzumwalt]

Ok the little o ring thats on the injector you use. That slides into the fuel rail. Then The bottom of the injector (the part that sprays) load's into the stock rubber pieces. Correct.


Gregg

[Ghst 01]

Nope!they both go on the end.
like this...... i borrowed this pic from "Red" on NICO

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/photopost/data/500/13922nathan_00870small.JPG

[jdzumwalt]

Is the bottom rubber peice the stock unit. If not I dont have either of those. I know i dont have the top smaller ring. All I got where the injectors.

[Ghst 01]

yes the bigger one is the stock unit... it should have been sitting between the stock injectors and the manifold.... if they are not to worn out you can re-use them, if not your gonna have to order some from nissan since they are a dealer only product and they cost $4.67 a piece.

[jdzumwalt]

Well oil pan is in it went pretty easy Thanks to Red. Jacking up the motor from the bell housing proved to be the best option. I didn't have much of a problem putting the oil pan back on just a little trouble with the oil pickup.(which must be removed in order to get the oil pan off) My roomate started the bolt while I held the pickup. Work great although I tighend it down with a wretch so I dont know how much torque it got. Although I snuged it up pretty hard.

Tommorow I will mount the turbo, finish the down pipe and complete the oil line.

So far I have

4 hours the first night 06-08-04
2 last night 06-09-04
3 tonight 06-10-04

gregg

[S14DRFTER]

JDZUMWALT-The oil pan seems to be one of the problem areas they don't mention, I have about 3 hrs on trying to get mine off. Did you have the cars front wheels on the ground, jacked up, or on a lift? I noticed everything lines up better when the front end is not jacked up. I will try removing the oil pickup like you said, and give it another go. Everything else is off and I am going to start the manifold and turbo install this morning.

Here is another great Greddy set of instructions: they tell you to disconnect the injector harness then later tell you to cut it. Where the [email protected]%# are you supposed to cut it at!!?? and do you just cut every wire that is on the harness? If anyone has any suggestions on this or even better a picture please let me know. JDZUMWALT- did you cut yours yet?

If anyone is interested in any of the stock items that I am removing for the turbo install let me know. Thanks.

[Grandpa]

Easiest method I''ve found for the oil pan:

Put the front up on stands
Jack the floor jack up until it's resting on the bellhousing
Undo the tension rod bolts, sway bar bolts on A-arms
Disconnect PS cooling lines from crossmember
Undo 2 motor mount bolts
Drop the crossmember
Have at the oil pan in luxury and style

Doing it this way, you don't have to pull the pickup tube to drop the pan.

When you're doing this, use at least 1 can of brake cleaner on that oil pan after you've cut/welded on it. Clean out the screen on the pickup. Run at least 2 quarts of oil through the engine after it's back together - dino oil is okay.

Metal flakes = oil pump failure.

I also took the time to notch the oil pickup while it was accessable. Essentially you cut a small V with your dremel in the pickup, so if the pan is ever hit, oil starvation/engine failure doesn't occur. Guys with S13 redtops do this all the time because their pans are notoriously weak. I believe Nissan started notching them in the S13 blacktops (definitely S14 blacktops).

-john

[Ghst 01]

Here is another great Greddy set of instructions: they tell you to disconnect the injector harness then later tell you to cut it. Where the [email protected]%# are you supposed to cut it at!!?? and do you just cut every wire that is on the harness? If anyone has any suggestions on this or even better a picture please let me know. JDZUMWALT- did you cut yours yet?



here you go
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/photopost/data/500/13922nathan_014small-med.JPG

[S14DRFTER]

GHST 01 and GRANDPA thanks for the responses. I did get all the wiring for the fuel rail done today along with the return line from the oil pressure switch. and everything else up to actually mounting the turbo (my exhaust manifold is now on also)

GRANDPA- I did exactly as you described today to try and get the oil pan off, and still didn't have any luck. I even disconnected the lower steering linkage and nada. I am at the point to where there is almost nothing left to do except get that darn thing off. I can't believe how hard it is to get that thing off. It seems like the rear of the motor hits the firewall before giving me enough clearance. I am about ready to drop the whole cross memeber in order to get it out. Just didn't want to resort to that yet. I will keep you posted when it finally comes off.

Besides the fact that the instructions blow, my kit did come complete and everything fits pretty good (give or take a little adjusting to get things that are in tight places) I found that having a set of stubby wrenches helped in a lot of places, and spending $5 for a Oil Switch socket was worth it. even bought an oxygen sensor socket for $10 (both at Autozone).

[Grandpa]

What do you mean the rear of the motor hits the firewall before you can get it off? You mean if you're jacking it up, it's hitting the upper portion of the tranny tunnel?

If you drop the cross member, so it's pretty much just dangling by the lower control arms, it should be cake to get the oilpan off.

If you can, post pics of what you're having issues with, and we'll try to figure it out.

-john

[S14DRFTER]

Grandpa- Finally got the oil pan off. Now I can finish the install!!! Thanks for the help. All I need now is to wire the emange and put the pan back on after I get it welded. Then bolt everything back up.

[Grandpa]

Sweet! For the emanage, I mounted it here:

http://img39.photobucket.com/albums/v121/jbragelman/240%20pics/emanage.jpg

You need to extend the harness 18"-24", but I really like the location. You need to a bit of modifying to the center console, but it's really not bad.

The pins for the connectors that GReddy include are really nice if you use a pin crimper. I picked one up from Pep Boys for under $20, and it makes install a breeze.

-john

[jdzumwalt]

Ok turbo is coming together nicely. I'm trying to figure out the vacum line routing right now. greddy directions are horible and don't give any details or picture's on the routing.

The line that runs from the throttle body does anybody know where this goes? I think it goes on the intake side of the compressor.

The bung on the hot pipe does this get routed directly to the acuator? It would make sense to me since thats how it is on my wrx. They say you need a three way spliter for the vaccum to the acuator from the fuel presure regulator if so then what the hell is the bung on the hot pipe for?



Well any help will do. By the way mine a 95' I'm still trying to figure out where to put the air temp sensor.

[Grandpa]

Throttlebody nipple and fpr vacuum line both see the same vacuum, the manifold vacuum. This is used for the bov, the fpr, the boost gauge, the ebc, etc. The nipple on the hot pipe goes to the lower port on an external WG or on the actuator (although I'm not familiar with internal gates, so I couldn't tell you which nipple if there's more than one).

Hope that helps.

-john

edit: BTW, the air temp sensor is worthless, used only for diagnostic chit. It's not like an air temp sensor in a standalone, i.e. it's actually used for something. Just let that bish dangle into the fenderwell if you don't want to throw a code. It's no big deal.

[jdzumwalt]

Oh by the way I did not cut my harness yet. I'm still missing hardware. I want to wait till all the hardware is here.

Gregg

[jdzumwalt]

Hey can anybody get me a picture of the routing if the leftover vaccum line that comes off the throttle body I still dont know where that goes?

Gregg

[jdzumwalt]

it's finsihed.


I'll post pictures when I get a chance.

Gregg

[Ghst 01]

it's finsihed.


I'll post pictures when I get a chance.

Gregg

Same here... got everything to work.... i srted it up today and it cranked fine but you can tell it's running a little to rich..... also i did get a CEL so ima pull the code tomorrow to see whats up

I do have a question for you... did ur turbo put out some smoke... i took the car around the block and some smoke started to come out from what seems to be from the turbine... hopefully it's not a exhaust leak from the mani fo something

[jdzumwalt]

Yeah the engine compartment smaoked for a little bit. I also got a cel but that was be cause I didn't hook up the air temp sensor. Do you have the intercooler setup or just the basic kit?

Gregg

[jdzumwalt]

Also what boost level should the kit be at without a boost controler

[Ghst 01]

i have the basic kit..... the boost should be set at like 6-7psi...

is ur car running ruff at all?

[jdzumwalt]

it runs pretty smooth although it does die if you race it to 4000 rpm or so and push in the clutch(under laod) . I pulled my timing to 16 btdc. I think this cost me some horse power because it feels kinda slow for a turbo car. not sure what base timing should be.

[Bryants95240sx]

I thought you were suppose to leave the timing alone when your running the Greddy kit.

[Red]

I'm glad my pics could help a little bit...

You will get used to the car wanting to die when you do that... Now when I push in my clutch from 4000rpm's I just give a little tap while stopping to keep it from dieing. Or I just don't do that... As far as I can tell its from the turbo still sucking air and sending it past the MAF... which makes my engine hit way rich, flooding the engine and killing it when it hits low rpm's.

Once this guy on NICO comeout with his mew GM MAF I will be running a blow through... I hope this will stop the 4000 stall issue.

I should also have my wideband in tonight and can post if the kit runs rich or lean... I got my bung on the SR downpipe I installd... I just have to clean up the inside due to the retard who drilled the hole to small under my bung... pissis me off big time that I have to take it back off.

BTW taking out your CAT will make the car MUCH louder... I had to put in my silencer so I could stand driving it anywhere... Ear plugs would also work.

But you do hear turbo whoosh out the tail pipe now... thats sounds cool and scares the hondas away.

[Powashiftin]

no BOV? why is it dieing at 4000RPM? Thats seems strange

[jdzumwalt]

does the sr down pipe bolt up to the factor downpipe/cat loaction. So basicaly you hook up the dump pipe off the turbo to the sr down pipe then to any aftermarket exhaust. Is this correct? or did you have to modify the down pipe to work with the KA exhuast system.

Gregg

btw: what timing are all you greddy kit guys running?

[Ghst 01]

I'm taking the car out for it's first test drive tomorrow morning... so if it dies at 4krpm's then at what range do u shift at..... am i soppose to only shift below 4k or higher than 4k? and what can i do to correct this?

[jdzumwalt]

it doesn't die at 4000. it just dies when you drive it hard to a high rpm and then push the clutch in and let rev all the way down. It's not a big deal it just shows the kit's running rich it reack kinda like a maf car with a bov.

gregg

[Ghst 01]

I was also under the impression that the E-manage took care of the timing too

[S14DRFTER]

RED- Can you post some pics of the DP? Also is it a Greddy SR DP? I am very interested if this will bolt up to the KA without any problems, if so then I will have to get one also. Thanks.

[eyustfu]

RED- Can you post some pics of the DP? Also is it a Greddy SR DP? I am very interested if this will bolt up to the KA without any problems, if so then I will have to get one also. Thanks.

stock sr downpipe bolts in perfectly, i have the greddy one on my greddy kit

[Red]

jdzumwalt: It hard to explain... I have the timing on my E-manage, It goes anywhere from +4 at idle to -8 under full boost... I am thinking of pulling the top end to -10 and run 10psi when I get the wideband in.. (Lazy)

S14DRFTER: No need for a pic... It bolts up fine; nothing special about it... in fact any s14 guy can bolt one on... I told Enjuku so they can remark it to a S14 down pipe not just a SR one. WATCH YOUR BOOST!!! once I put mine on I had to change my setup a bunch... the damn thing started going to 10psi in second and 8psi in 3-4-5th... I'm still trying to get it to calm down a bit.

[Ghst 01]

Oh yea i took her out for her first drive.... no prob... took her ona 30miledrive to work... and wil drive her back later on tonight.... I am loving the sound when it starts to spool up at 3k... although i wish a louder swoosh sound came from the actuater.

[S14DRFTER]

EYUSTFU/RED- Thanks for the downpipe info. I will be ordering one soon. Hopefully my kit will be finished by the weekend, can't wait to take her out!! I currently do not have any gauges so I may wait until I get at least a boost gauge before hitting the road. I have lots of pictures of my install if anyone needs any help or just wants to see what the install looks like. Just let me know.

[jdzumwalt]

Red:
Did you have to completely remap the emanage to add the timing control? Or could you go in and add that to the orginal program greddy put in the box?

I'm etting a new exhaust.when I called greddy on the downpipe they said it was not compatble with the ka turbo kit. Nice to know we can benifit from a down pipe.

Gregg

[Red]

No I just added the timing right in...

Make sure to save a copy of your tune on the PC or the E-01 before you fuk with it...

BTW. I got my wideband in today... SO some of you know I got dick on my HP... it was 188hp at 8psi... well thats becuse my car is running 9/1 AFR when I hit it... HAHA thats eating my gas and power...

But the good news is that its 14.7/1 while cruzing.

But when I got the downpipe on now my car will not hold the boost... I over shoot to 10-12psi its spozed to be 8psi... I looked at all my lines and they look fine... but I'm thinking of re-doing them all..

Could any of you with the E-01 or other greddy boost give me your settings for boost? I need to try something to see if I can stop going over...

I backed my timing off to -10 under boost load to make sure I would not POP when I hit 12psi... My AFR is still 9/1 (it bounces a little) at 12psi so its not leaning out. I dont know who told me my 370cc's could not run over 10psi but I think they were wrong.

Anyways any help would be good... I want to run a normal boost so I can tune my car better.

[jdzumwalt]

I'm not sure about the greddy boost controler. On my blitz sbcid iii I have to change lower the duty cylce to compensate for changes like that. I would sudjest running it in a automtic mode if it has one till you get things worked out. The wastegate should be hooked up dirctly from the hot pipe. The the boost selonoid interrups that signal. you should get your boost signal from the fpr vaccum line.

Gregg

Did you have any problems geting into the greddy emanage i'm a little hesitant to start programing with it just yet. I'm thinking that a wide band might be a good thing.

[eyustfu]

interesting info RED, did you run the ecu that they sent you? or did you reprogram it a bit? im going to go with the jwt ecu,72lb,cobra maf which i think would be a better set up with the turbo kit. i'll let everyone know how it goes

[jdzumwalt]

I spke with jim wolf they said 4 week wait at a minimum for a ecu. ouch!

[S14DRFTER]

Ok I just want to be sure that I'm understanding everyone correctly. When I'm finished with my install will the emange be set up to run, without having to change any of the setting on it? (It is pre-programmed, right?) Or is it better to try and set it up on your own? My car is basically still stock with the exception of the greddy kit. I have a laptop and could hook it up to the car but I've NEVER played with any type of A/F adjustments before.

I don't even know what I need to plug a laptop into to the car? Plus isn't it true that if you want to adjust the greddy emanage you have to buy some type of software from Greddy to allow you to do it, or can you make adjustments without having to buy something else? :loco:

One last question(and this may seem dumb but I don't know so I'm gonna ask) where does the BOV go? The kit doesn't come with one and I'm not sure if I have to have one or not? I know its better for the turbo to have one, but can it be run without one for a little while? Suggestions?

[eyustfu]

its preprogrammed with a password protection on it, if you dont mind voiding the warranty then you can probably ask greddy for the pw.

you need the software kit if you decide to fine tune it which is about ~$100. it includes the software/cable.

its better to have a bov for protection of the turbo from surges. i mounted mine near the tb.

[Red]

Mine came in programmed... I only added timing maps...

mine also had no pw

[jdzumwalt]

Hey Red, Let's see some photos of that down pipe bolted up to your exhuast I have to see it with own eye's every manufacure swears that it wont work.

Greg

[Grandpa]

The SR downpipe will bolt up almost perfectly in place of the S14 main cat/downpipe portion. The only issue is a slight clocking which can be handled by welding, twisting the crap out of your exhaust, or running a cat with a rotating flange.

Depending on the how the GReddy downpipe bolts up to the stock exhaust, I'm willing to bet you won't have much of a problem. Worst comes to worst, buy a cat with a flange that isn't fixed.

-john

[Ghst 01]

I wanted to bring the thread back to see what people are expeirencing with the kit.

as for me it runs okay... car seems to be smoother.... runs rich.... but no snap ur neck back acceleration....... they way i cured my bad idle was to raise up the idle control a little bit, but now i got a CEL.. i pulled up the code and it came up as "idle control malfunction"... i'm thinking it's cause of me adjusting the idle.....

it also feels like it could tak a little more boost maybe 2psi more... cause the 5.7 u cant really feel it.

whats ur expeirence and opinions?

[jdzumwalt]

Well Tonight I draged my 03 wrx. The subaru has down pipe, up pipe, and exhaust. Basically no cats.. Both car are running on one gallon of toluene.

The 240 will out pull it from rpm lower than 3000. After that the subaru creeps up and pulls on the nissan. Over all the subie will beat it, But not by much.

Also I want to add that for some reason my car is now boosting up to .6 bar. this is with no intercooler. When I first installe the kit it was holding dead rock solid at .4 bar. Now it goes to .4 then creeps up to .5 and occasionally .6?

I believe the boost creep is do to the factory ecu advancing the timing as I've driven around. My base timing btdc is set at 17 currently.

I have encounter some pinging if I set the timing above that mark.

The car feels faster than it did when I first took it out. Which is wierd. Heat seems that it might bring on some of the pinging if boost is sustand for any period of time.

I have no idea what my afr's are but I suspect that it's running rich. Although to what extent is unknown.

Boost comes on instantly. NO lag so it feels more like a v6 rather than a turbo 4. But after racing the subaru which has a bunch of boost whip I know it's running pretty good.

Hope this helps

Damn I think I need a intercooler now.

If anybody wants to check out my setup I'll be at driftday 17. I might pop over to the 240sx bbq too.


Gregg

[jdzumwalt]

In regard to the greddy down pipe issue. If you have a full japanese spec exhaust you should therreotically not need to bend and or modify the exhaust correct? So if one where to buy the down pipe, test pipe jdm ( the piece that replaces our fake cats) and the exhaust system no bend would be required. I still need to see it with my own eyes.


Gregg

[Drunk Bastard]

what rom does the greddy kit reach full boost?

[jdzumwalt]

2500 Rpm


Gregg

[Powashiftin]

get an ebay intercooler and some piping and hook i up

where the pics at?

where did you get the kit from? Are you satisfied with it? What clutch are you running? Are you tuning via E-Manage or E-manage to a laptop?