ka or sr

[pinedamatthew482]

hey every ive saved about 1500 and im not sure wether to buy a ka and build internals and go kat or go sr im looking for the less expensive and less probematic please give your opinions thanks

[bmxer882x]

your gonna learn that 1500 doesn't last long on 240's..

But I would go kat, if you find a 1500 sr its gonna be incomplete or junk.
As far as building the ka I don't see it necessary running small boost would net you more power.

But do some more research. I would suggest running a t25 off a sr as they can be found pretty cheap. Plus the 370cc injectors from the sr are fairly inexpensive as far as injectors go as well.

[Fuego]

your gonna learn that 1500 doesn't last long on 240's..

But I would go kat, if you find a 1500 sr its gonna be incomplete or junk.
As far as building the ka I don't see it necessary running small boost would net you more power.

But do some more research. I would suggest running a t25 off a sr as they can be found pretty cheap. Plus the 370cc injectors from the sr are fairly inexpensive as far as injectors go as well.


This man speaks truth. Your budget will not set you up too well for success with either option if you want to do it right.

SR motor/ecu/tranny will set you back ~1800-2200 alone.

[brndck]

Zar speaks the truth.

$1500 will barely get you the most basic and hacked together turbo kit.
Barely. Basic. BARELY.

[bmxer882x]

Am I missing something? this picture makes 0 sense to me lol

[Tempo]

Am I missing something? this picture makes 0 sense to me lol

OP = florida.

[240boi115]

hey every ive saved about 1500 and im not sure wether to buy a ka and build internals and go kat or go sr im looking for the less expensive and less probematic please give your opinions thanks

wont happen. adding a turbo creates more moving parts to go wrong.. and if ll you have is 1500 bucks youll be running into tons of issues.

[Knapik]

OP is 17....so for him 1500 is a lot of money. Shit he probably bought the car for that much.

Just keep it clean and enjoy it man. Do the basics. New bushings, some springs and shocks, get some good plugs and wires and enjoy your car.

A stock KA is still fun in these cars. And all the super legit cars you see on here, have LOTS of time and money in them.

[Hoffman5982]

Do some maintenance on the KA and learn to drive with it. Since you're new, and you're from FL, you're most likely a fanboy and want to be a drifter. Stop following the "more power is better" crowd and learn to get sideways with less power.

[HeyGirlHeyyy]

For that kind of money you're just going to have a headache. Do a tune up and get a decent set of tires, along with an upgraded suspension setup. You'll have plenty of funsies.

[240boi115]

yup coils and a welded diff and your basically drift ready but keep it off the streets

[dorkidori_s13]

OP is 17....so for him 1500 is a lot of money. Shit he probably bought the car for that much.

then he should keep saving.

kid, youre 17...you have no bills and no major responsibilities with your money in life. save until you can afford something complete!

hell if i were in your situation, i would save as much as possible and just flat out buy a brand new FRS... but thats just because im old and jaded! ;)

[feito]

just spend it all on girls and alcohol

[brndck]

best route would be
-upgraded clutch and light flywheel
-suspension
-bucket seat
-lsd.
-track time

then after all of these have been done, and you are a comfortable and much more skilled driver, start increasing power.

[fliprayzin240sx]

best route would be
-upgraded clutch and light flywheel
-suspension
-bucket seat
-lsd.
-track time

then after all of these have been done, and you are a comfortable and much more skilled driver, start increasing power.

Toss in a lighter main pulley, makes the KA more rev happy...

[crzsteveo]

I would prefer a welded diff over a LSD in a stock KA. just my two cents.

my daily has a ABS lsd and my track car has a welded. the lsd is a lot harder to break loose then my welded. but then again, I don't know how well the ABS models lsds work sssooo.

[R33E8]

Toss in a lighter main pulley, makes the KA more rev happy...

And more likely to spin bearings due to the harmonics from the crankshaft no longer being dampened.

[dorkidori_s13]

I would prefer a welded diff over a LSD in a stock KA. just my two cents.

my daily has a ABS lsd and my track car has a welded. the lsd is a lot harder to break loose then my welded. but then again, I don't know how well the ABS models lsds work sssooo.

Aftermarket LSDs work A LOT better than the OEM Helical/Viscous units. Both OEM units are not full limited slips, but theyre both a thousand times better than the stock open diff.

I would only recommend you weld your diff ONLY if you plan on making your car track only. Welded diffs create a lot of excess wear on your tires if you daily drive the car. you will be going thru sets of rears every 3-6 months (if youre lucky). LSDs allow the wheels to spin at a different rotational speeds when making turns so you dont chew up your outer tire (if i remember correctly). with a welded diff, both tires spin at the same rate which is great for drifting, but horrible when youre trying to make a normal right turn in traffic and that outer tire starts burning itself.

[crzsteveo]

^good point. forgot to add that. I think people who daily welded diffs must have deep pockets or a free source for tires lol

[brndck]

I would prefer a welded diff over a LSD in a stock KA. just my two cents.

my daily has a ABS lsd and my track car has a welded. the lsd is a lot harder to break loose then my welded. but then again, I don't know how well the ABS models lsds work sssooo.
Welded diff =/= LSD. ABS diff =/= LSD. Those are stop-gaps. U good used kaaz unit can be found for as low as under $600 if you have patience. Rebuild kits are relatively cheap too.
And more likely to spin bearings due to the harmonics from the crankshaft no longer being dampened.
This is a commonly repeated MYTH. You will NOT rev a KA or sr high enough to get into the 2nd range frequencies that cause damage. I6 engines DO run into this problem due to their 2nd range harmonics being at a much lower rpm. I challenge anyone to show PROOF of a KA or SR taking a shit due to a solid crank pulley.
Aftermarket LSDs work A LOT better than the OEM Helical/Viscous units. Both OEM units are not full limited slips, but theyre both a thousand times better than the stock open diff.

I would only recommend you weld your diff ONLY if you plan on making your car track only. Welded diffs create a lot of excess wear on your tires if you daily drive the car. ..........
Yeah, what he said. Also, welded diff causes you to Understeer like a motherfucker since the diff is constantly trying to push in a straight line. Any time you are not sideways (99.99% of street driving) it will be pushing you to straighten out.

[simmode1]

just spend it all on girls and alcohol
C'mon man... Kid is 17. No on the alcohol.

Yes on basic maintenence, suspension, LSD and driver mods.

[fliprayzin240sx]

And more likely to spin bearings due to the harmonics from the crankshaft no longer being dampened.

You serious? I ran one in my KA from 2000 till 2005, from 27k miles till 125k with no issue. Dont believe everything you read on the interweb.

[Scope240sx]

flipprayzin & brndck nailed it on the head already.

flipprayzin what kind of lighter crank pulley did you use? ATI?

I prefer an open diff over a welded in any car. ever.

[240Cali]

you're barely old enough to have a license man lol xD
get a bank account save up till yer 20 take money out build 2jz. Wish I did that when I was your age lol / considering you're not no spoiled kid and actually make your own money at 17, till then buy all the little stuff/ maintenance

[fliprayzin240sx]

flipprayzin & brndck nailed it on the head already.

flipprayzin what kind of lighter crank pulley did you use? ATI?

I prefer an open diff over a welded in any car. ever.

Unorthodox Racing Pulley. That with a lighter flywheel makes the KA rev like a NA SR20. Also doesnt make it feel like its dying after 5K rpm.

[Drift_FX]

use ATI pulley or stock..... never use anything else unless your trying to destroy a motor......

[Scope240sx]

Unorthodox Racing Pulley. That with a lighter flywheel makes the KA rev like a NA SR20. Also doesnt make it feel like its dying after 5K rpm.

its funny you mention rev like an NA sr20, I drove a 00' G20 recently at my job and loved the way it revved, was not satisfied with it tho. Reminded my of my KA without any torque.

I bet that Unorthodox Pulley woke up your KA! I just need a crank pulley & tune myself.

Also agree the lightweight clutch/flywheel combo is a great difference, it was actually the first thing I did to my car 4 years ago.
Still have an s chassis with a KA these days?

[ixfxi]

hey every ive saved about 1500 and im not sure wether to buy a ka and build internals and go kat or go sr im looking for the less expensive and less probematic please give your opinions thanks

you should buy some books, possibly do some more reading.


hell if i were in your situation, i would save as much as possible and just flat out buy a brand new FRS... but thats just because im old and jaded! ;)

thats not called old and jaded, thats called being wise about what you buy. the OP is young and lacks experience. time to hit the books and learn, or buy something newer and stock and leave it alone.


Toss in a lighter main pulley, makes the KA more rev happy...

lighter pulley only makes your wallet lighter. it is a colossal waste


And more likely to spin bearings due to the harmonics from the crankshaft no longer being dampened.

use ATI pulley or stock..... never use anything else unless your trying to destroy a motor......

^ correct. engine harmonics need to be dampened.


This is a commonly repeated MYTH. You will NOT rev a KA or sr high enough to get into the 2nd range frequencies that cause damage. I6 engines DO run into this problem due to their 2nd range harmonics being at a much lower rpm. I challenge anyone to show PROOF of a KA or SR taking a shit due to a solid crank pulley.

no one needs to show you proof. its your car, do whatever you like. there are plenty of whitepapers on resonant frequencies, its common sense. you're making it seem like a non-dampened pulley is some special work of art. the factory could easily make one, but instead they make them dampened... and for a very good reason. if you chose to run a billet pulley, more power to you. ATI already has my money on a few of my cars.. dope product.


Aftermarket LSDs work A LOT better than the OEM Helical/Viscous units. Both OEM units are not full limited slips, but theyre both a thousand times better than the stock open diff.

your post is too damn vague... "better" is subjective. torsen/helical are the ultimate for a street car: quiet, no service needed and they are torque-sensing so they vary on how much torque is applied. worth every penny.


this thread needs to be locked. what, did we warp back to 2000? this topic has been beating to shit millions of times already....

[mewantkouki]

Ka block with an sr head. Be the first.

[stuckonfresh]

I'm a huge fan of the KA-T, but I vote SR. Its already turbo and after basic maintenance will work as soon as the swap is complete; relatively speaking its a lot less downtime than building a KA-T

[karnzklutch]

I've had a ka and a sr20. After owning both I liked the ka better.

[Driftwire]

Before I begin I will state I am from Florida but not stupid :(

Okay well OP I have a Ka-T setup that I built alot like everyone is recommending.

T25 Turbo 10psi
SR 370cc Injectors
N60 Maf
Nismotronic Tune
Walbro 255
FMIC

The whole setup.

It set me back quite a bit Ide say 1500 but mainly because I bought all the parts (other then injectors and MAF) Brand New. If money is a main issue I recommend a KA and piece together a turbo kit it will be more then enough. Now if you have more money to play with get a nice chunk and get an SR.

[pinedamatthew482]

your gonna learn that 1500 doesn't last long on 240's..

But I would go kat, if you find a 1500 sr its gonna be incomplete or junk.
As far as building the ka I don't see it necessary running small boost would net you more power.

But do some more research. I would suggest running a t25 off a sr as they can be found pretty cheap. Plus the 370cc injectors from the sr are fairly inexpensive as far as injectors go as well.
ok mabe i should have mentioned that i have been slideing sence i was 15 i have megan coil lightweight flywheel stage 3 exedy clutch and lsd and more mods the reason i want to bulid or swap is because i feel like i need a bit more power or so it can help me im not a complte noob i also should have mentioned that i have som help from a close friend thats a certified tech but thanks for your advice

[pinedamatthew482]

ok mabe i should have mentioned that i have been slideing sence i was 15 i have megan coil lightweight flywheel stage 3 exedy clutch and lsd and more mods the reason i want to bulid or swap is because i feel like i need a bit more power or so it can help me im not a complte noob i also should have mentioned that i have som help from a close friend thats a certified tech but thanks for your advice

he has built a lot of cars but hes never gotten into drifing so i wasent sure what i should have done but im proubly staying ka

[pinedamatthew482]

ok mabe i should have mentioned that i have been slideing sence i was 15 i have megan coil lightweight flywheel stage 3 exedy clutch and lsd and more mods the reason i want to bulid or swap is because i feel like i need a bit more power or so it can help me im not a complte noob i also should have mentioned that i have som help from a close friend thats a certified tech but hes never bulit a drifting car and i have done a lot of research but t thanks for all advice it has really helped me decide what im going to do

[pinedamatthew482]

just spend it all on girls and alcohol

lmao funny dude

[pancakes562]

Just get a single cam and call it day


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[Future240]

you should buy some books, possibly do some more reading.




thats not called old and jaded, thats called being wise about what you buy. the OP is young and lacks experience. time to hit the books and learn, or buy something newer and stock and leave it alone.




lighter pulley only makes your wallet lighter. it is a colossal waste






^ correct. engine harmonics need to be dampened.




no one needs to show you proof. its your car, do whatever you like. there are plenty of whitepapers on resonant frequencies, its common sense. you're making it seem like a non-dampened pulley is some special work of art. the factory could easily make one, but instead they make them dampened... and for a very good reason. if you chose to run a billet pulley, more power to you. ATI already has my money on a few of my cars.. dope product.




your post is too damn vague... "better" is subjective. torsen/helical are the ultimate for a street car: quiet, no service needed and they are torque-sensing so they vary on how much torque is applied. worth every penny.


this thread needs to be locked. what, did we warp back to 2000? this topic has been beating to shit millions of times already....


I could not agree more.