S13 1UZFE - Street Shark in Progress (vhate)

[Panda-Eats-240]

I once was a young lad that fell in love with the s-chassis. I lurked the forums for years until I finally made an account, and then started looking for my own little 240. (used to stick mainly to 240sxforums, but activity has been dead there for a while I guess. So I'm finally starting a thread here.)

They're pretty rare to come by around here, and one day on my way to school I saw one parked outside the police department covered in snow. Stopped just to take a look at it and saw a piece of paper on the window with info on the police auction. FUCK YEAH.

Got it for $1500 after they told me no problems and that it ran fine. It didnt run fine. I didnt know enough at the time, but I assumed it was either a head gasket or bad rings so I decided to tear the KA out.

(When I first got it)
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/26323_1323706927153_3054740_n.jpg?lvh=1

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/26323_1323706847151_2419898_n.jpg?lvh=1

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/16645_1256054035873_360956_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/16645_1256054115875_8070459_n.jpg




You know how things go, It got put off and has sat for 5 years.

I started doing the little things like fender wire tuck, sleepy eyes controller, gauge lights, and stupid shit a high schooler would do in his free time. Despite the clean interior I started on the half gut.

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/40994_1477837860330_7908899_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/299059_2109492011289_5823530_n.jpg

Wasn't even old enough to buy dry ice.





After a lot of back and forth research, I decided that a 1uz would be a great option for my budget. ~250hp/tq, lightweight, and very balanced. The v8 sound is just an added bonus!

Got a little ambition and got more intensive with it by pulling the motor, cutting the rust, yada yada. Cleaning it up and getting ready to turn it into a real build.

Starting with this big gundle of grand daddy purp mouse nest
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/s720x720/970809_10200294532940374_872399697_n.jpg


https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/q71/s720x720/374472_10200704223382379_1541760495_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q72/s720x720/942618_10200358637542949_1693321052_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q71/s720x720/998758_10200704891199074_1605980317_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q73/s720x720/733829_10200792178701207_901829887_n.jpg


I sold my thunderbird and got a partially complete s13 1uz swap from FidelCashflo here on the forums.
http://i43.tinypic.com/14v644g.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/wths45.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/qyzsqx.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/242wxtj.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2ijrc5u.jpg



Motor after picking it up, loading it into the shed backwoods hillbilly style.
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/q75/s720x720/999675_10200507945515555_2091197996_n.jpg

After paint
https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s720x720/970286_10200721617337217_647019712_n.jpg



Flywheel, tranny mount, ecu, ignitors
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q84/s720x720/1375027_10201101077343480_2126360401_n.jpg

Adapter plate, clutch, etc.
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/q71/s720x720/983961_10200511185556554_1874182856_n.jpg



And recently started my fusebox relocation/wire tuck
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s720x720/1380475_10201214443937574_698199220_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q75/s720x720/9258_10201271042272497_63418405_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/67041_10201271731889737_1148629680_n.jpg


I'll get back to this later tonight.

[Kingbaby]

in for the shark part

[sarhd]

Damn more and more 1uz coming out of the wood works

[Panda-Eats-240]

Updates will be coming real soon, I've been pretty low on spending money lately but this week I'll be ordering up some parts.

[Panda-Eats-240]

When I got the motor the intake plenum was cracked off, the pressure plate is worn and blued, and he never sent me my motor mounts nor refunded me in any way shape or form for the intake. Gotta love it, but oh well..

If anybody has any tips/tricks or wanna chime in on the swap be my guest, I haven't had a whole lot of people to talk to about it and it would be nice.

[shoguner]

When I got the motor the intake plenum was cracked off, the pressure plate is worn and blued, and he never sent me my motor mounts nor refunded me in any way shape or form for the intake. Gotta love it, but oh well..

If anybody has any tips/tricks or wanna chime in on the swap be my guest, I haven't had a whole lot of people to talk to about it and it would be nice.

XAT rippin you off eh?

I bought their triple plate and their adaptor was hella messed, cost me a
transmission.

Ended up going with a 3sgte flywheel, sr20det clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. Grabs nice.

What year is your engine?

[Panda-Eats-240]

XAT rippin you off eh?

I bought their triple plate and their adaptor was hella messed, cost me a
transmission.

Ended up going with a 3sgte flywheel, sr20det clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. Grabs nice.

What year is your engine?

It's 'FidelCashflo' here on the forums, but he's on many forums selling various parts..


Motor I was told was from a 96 LS400. It's a new custom flywheel, sr 6-puck clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. So looks like we've basically got the same setup eh?

I hope I don't find any new problems with the parts when it comes time to put it all together. Flywheel would be my main concern.

[psi999]

Lol that wiring looks interesting.... I thought i had it bad!!!

Loving the 1UZ

[Panda-Eats-240]

Lol that wiring looks interesting.... I thought i had it bad!!!

Loving the 1UZ

You're tellin me... I got excited and pulled everything apart before labeling a single plug. So it's interesting to say the least to get it all sorted out again. Eh, just a mistake I won't make the second time around!

[imoverherre]

Glad more and more people are going 1uz now. I myself doing that swap and finally got the last part to drop in the motor, all I need to do if figure out the wiring. That I don't what to mess with since I'll have no clue what would I be doing lol.

[Panda-Eats-240]

It was also from my understanding that If you extend the throwout release sleeve 1/2"-5/8" then you do NOT need to machine down your bellhousing. Yay or nay?

[Derek_McDermott]

Sweet build love the 1uz.

[s4cxnick]

yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far. :)

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

[Drifting Kalamari]

Loving the build thread!! I'm doing a S13 1uz aswell.

The engine I see hanging from the tree looks like it's from a SC400. The LS400 has the oil pan in the front, not the back. Besides that, it is looking great!

[shoguner]

Well I ran into a couple questions with my lack of mechanical knowledge as I'm now trying to get the tranny mated up to the motor so I can work on getting it into the car.

1. Am I supposed to completely replace the pilot bearing with this adaptor? Seems odd to not have a bearing where such fast rpm's will be happening.

2. Does it matter if the knobs on the end of the throwout release sleeve that was welded on to be extended are a little bit uneven with the original ones below it? Maybe causing some rotational imbalance or something, I dont know I just want to be safe.

example:
On mine the end thats welded on is centered, but rotated a little bit from the two knobs sticking out below them. From my understanding I could cut the old original knobs off if I wanted sine they're only meant to rest on the clutch fork and now thats being done with the new section?


3. It was also from my understanding that If you extend the throwout release sleeve 1/2"-5/8" then you do NOT need to machine down your bellhousing. Yay or nay?

1 Yes replace the whole bearing. Nissan's use bushings. Wren those brass bushings heat up, they let out some oil.
2. That is fine, That's how mine looks.
3. YOU have to messure to see if you need to mill your housing. I extended my TOB AND milled my housing.


yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far. :)

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

The extended TOB is to move the TOB to the clutch. You still need to messure to see if your input shaft will have enough penetration to your clutch.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1097734_10151602490551365_498739114_o.jpg
See the blue thing? I only had, maybe 1/2in of penetration.
That was before milling.

Also, DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPACERS FOR YOUR FLYWHEEL.

[Panda-Eats-240]

yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far. :)

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

Where in MN? I'm in the fargo/moorhead area

I read somewhere that nissans dont use the bearings, and it would only make sense that it's meant to replace the whole thing given the dimensions of the bushing. Shoguner just clarified it for me

Loving the build thread!! I'm doing a S13 1uz aswell.

The engine I see hanging from the tree looks like it's from a SC400. The LS400 has the oil pan in the front, not the back. Besides that, it is looking great!


I was told that it's an LS motor but he had switched pans with the SC for whatever reason, thanks!


1 Yes replace the whole bearing. Nissan's use bushings. Wren those brass bushings heat up, they let out some oil.
2. That is fine, That's how mine looks.
3. YOU have to messure to see if you need to mill your housing. I extended my TOB AND milled my housing.




The extended TOB is to move the TOB to the clutch. You still need to messure to see if your input shaft will have enough penetration to your clutch.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1097734_10151602490551365_498739114_o.jpg
See the blue thing? I only had, maybe 1/2in of penetration.
That was before milling.

Also, DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPACERS FOR YOUR FLYWHEEL.

Forgive my lack of knowledge, but how would I go about measuring the penetration, assemble everything and pivot the clutch fork?

I also wasn't aware of needing any flywheel spacers :ugh:

[s4cxnick]

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

[Panda-Eats-240]

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

Could you point me to somewhere with info on the shim? I've looked through numerous builds and haven't seen one mentioned

[JDMcheddar]

oh shit there he is. I was never aware of needing any shims on the fly wheel either?

[shoguner]

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

What tranmission are you using?
350z you HAVE to measure.

Could you point me to somewhere with info on the shim? I've looked through numerous builds and haven't seen one mentioned

It's a factory spacer for the flexplate
http://i32.tinypic.com/4utjmc.jpg
There are 2. A smaller one and a bigger one, i am not sure which one i used haha.

[Panda-Eats-240]

What tranmission are you using?
350z you HAVE to measure.



It's a factory spacer for the flexplate
http://i32.tinypic.com/4utjmc.jpg
There are 2. A smaller one and a bigger one, i am not sure which one i used haha.


Ahhhh you must be thinking I'm using the Z tranny, I'm using an SR20 tranny so as far as I know I don't need any spacers or anything besides the extended TOB and it should end up in the factory location, if not the most I'd have to do is shorten my driveshaft/get a new one piece made that's 2" shorter.

[shoguner]

Ahhhh you must be thinking I'm using the Z tranny, I'm using an SR20 tranny so as far as I know I don't need any spacers or anything besides the extended TOB and it should end up in the factory location, if not the most I'd have to do is shorten my driveshaft/get a new one piece made that's 2" shorter.

Ah, yes. Sorry.
But i would double measure everything, just in case.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Welp, got a mini parts package.

4age arp flywheel bolts as I'm not sure if I trust what he sold me
Arp pressure plate bolts (same reason as above)
Auto to manual clutch line
Clutch fork boot, fork retainer clip, and throw out retainer clip
Throw out bearing
Drift button and tein air fresheners hamanahamana
http://i39.tinypic.com/2qvwdpc.jpg
Backup pan so i can work on welding trap doors into one of them.

So now all I really need is a manual driveshaft, tranny crossmember, and 1uz wiring harness
(I do still need motor mounts, FidelCashflo still owes me them which will probably never happen.) And to finish my wiring mess.

[Panda-Eats-240]

My extended throwout was welded like shit and barely even welded on one side. So I beefed that up
http://i39.tinypic.com/2d2g2ux.jpg

But this is what I'm talking about it being welded on rotated a little with the knobs
http://i43.tinypic.com/206y8zp.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/dfvrk8.jpg

It probably doesn't matter as long as its actually centered, but I don't wanna run into any problems later..

Also cut my starter bolt heads down, put new retainer clips on, and hammered the throwout bearing onto the sleeve (All of this today on lunch break at work)




Side note:

Here's a little project I'm doing at work. Full custom interior on a 1927 Chevy I believe. Just cutting and forming the panels that'll soon get clips added and then foamed and fabric over.
http://i41.tinypic.com/xnfc06.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/2hqxwqu.jpg

The only shot of the seats that I have on my phone, it has two benches with big curves backs like this
http://i44.tinypic.com/2mpy73t.jpg

[Panda-Eats-240]

Picking up a light rack for the garage tomorrow and finding a heater.

I started to rig up all my parts (flywheel, throttle bearing, fork, boot, clutch slave with braided auto to manual line, etc) and will drill out the holes for the clutch master when I'm not being a lazy ass.



I noticed that 1uz's come in front, rear, and mid sump. So I have the mid sump correct? I'm wondering if it will clear the rack, though it probably doesn't. It would just save another weeks time with the project as I don't know yet everything I'll need to convert it to front sump (just the pan and pickup tube?).

[Fries]

It wont clear the rack. The front sump with the collins (or anyone elses) mounts just BARELY clear the rack. You need the LS400 front sump setup. You could check Supra 1uz forums since they need the rear setup.

The wiring is actually pretty easy. You just gotta set up a couple relays and fuses.

Let me know if that conversion clutch line fits. I remember it being just long enough for the stock setup and this one will place the slave cylinder just 2 inches further back.

[Panda-Eats-240]

It wont clear the rack. The front sump with the collins (or anyone elses) mounts just BARELY clear the rack. You need the LS400 front sump setup. You could check Supra 1uz forums since they need the rear setup.

The wiring is actually pretty easy. You just gotta set up a couple relays and fuses.

Let me know if that conversion clutch line fits. I remember it being just long enough for the stock setup and this one will place the slave cylinder just 2 inches further back.


Balls. I'll have to call a couple scrapyards as well, thanks for the tip

I'll deal with the wiring once the motor is ready/almost ready to be dropped in, dont want nunna dat stress right now..


So you're saying a 1UZ mounted to an SR tranny will indeed need to be placed 2" back? I do plan on a sikky sway bar if that's what makes a difference in getting stock positioning.

[Fries]

Because of the motor mounts, it places the transmission 2" back from where it originally sat. That's why you need to have a little piece added to your transmission xmember (because only 1 bolt hole lines up) and have a shortened driveshaft made.

Incase you didn't know, we have a nice little chat/thread on the 1uz.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/330303-1uzfe-into-s-chassis.html

[s4cxnick]

motor mounts are pretty cake to custom make..

on my setup were custom made 3/8ths metal plates, one on the crossmember and the other bolted up to the motor, and a 3/8th thick metal tube going between, welded up with a nut on the inside of the crossmember plate. so i can thread a bolt and washer in from the bottom side of the crossmember, where the original mounts bolted up. works mint, kept the original trans mount and driveshaft length and all. just didnt leave much room up front but it works just fine as far as im concerned.

wiring was pretty easy as well. i did 3 toggles, racecar style :p
1st toggle for cranking purposes, ign wire from the dash harness wasnt getting power anymore for me(no idea why), otherwise you can just use the orange wire. that comes off the ecu and plugs into the dash.
2nd toggle & relay for the fuel pump.
3rd toggle is for all the switched powers you're supposed to have.
the ecu constant power is just a wire ran straight from the plug on the chassis, i believe its a big red wire, on the gray plug. just cut that and run er to the motor harness connect eb1 i think? double check.

and bam. motor cranks and fires right up!

but yeah, my motor came with a mid sump pan, i ordered the whole pan setup from ebay, costed like 200, couldve got it cheaper from the j-yard.. but oh well. you need the upper and lower pan, strainer and gasket.. easy change out.

and i am using an sr20 tranny as well so thats why i was curious about the whole measuring thing with the clutch engagement.

oh btw, i just took the front sway bar out, because my motor sits too close and pan hits the bar, ive heard sikky bars work fine, but also heard they arent even needed.. no difference made without the front bar..

[Panda-Eats-240]

Because of the motor mounts, it places the transmission 2" back from where it originally sat. That's why you need to have a little piece added to your transmission xmember (because only 1 bolt hole lines up) and have a shortened driveshaft made.

Incase you didn't know, we have a nice little chat/thread on the 1uz.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/330303-1uzfe-into-s-chassis.html

Could I just drill or extend the holes on ebay/collins mounts to get the tranny to sit in the factory location?

Also before I order one, do I really even need a 5-speed crossmember or can the auto be easily modified especially if I end up making plates to move it back?





motor mounts are pretty cake to custom make..

on my setup were custom made 3/8ths metal plates, one on the crossmember and the other bolted up to the motor, and a 3/8th thick metal tube going between, welded up with a nut on the inside of the crossmember plate. so i can thread a bolt and washer in from the bottom side of the crossmember, where the original mounts bolted up. works mint, kept the original trans mount and driveshaft length and all. just didnt leave much room up front but it works just fine as far as im concerned.

wiring was pretty easy as well. i did 3 toggles, racecar style :p
1st toggle for cranking purposes, ign wire from the dash harness wasnt getting power anymore for me(no idea why), otherwise you can just use the orange wire. that comes off the ecu and plugs into the dash.
2nd toggle & relay for the fuel pump.
3rd toggle is for all the switched powers you're supposed to have.
the ecu constant power is just a wire ran straight from the plug on the chassis, i believe its a big red wire, on the gray plug. just cut that and run er to the motor harness connect eb1 i think? double check.

and bam. motor cranks and fires right up!

but yeah, my motor came with a mid sump pan, i ordered the whole pan setup from ebay, costed like 200, couldve got it cheaper from the j-yard.. but oh well. you need the upper and lower pan, strainer and gasket.. easy change out.

and i am using an sr20 tranny as well so thats why i was curious about the whole measuring thing with the clutch engagement.

oh btw, i just took the front sway bar out, because my motor sits too close and pan hits the bar, ive heard sikky bars work fine, but also heard they arent even needed.. no difference made without the front bar..

Do you have any pictures of making your mounts?

I think I'd like to do the same wiring setup, it might be easiest now that I've got everything de-loomed and clipped out a bunch of the wiring for things not used on the chassis. But I'm still wondering what the easiest and simplest wiring setup would be now that the only things I need are pop-up motors, tail lights, turn signals, interior lights, gauge cluster, etc. I got rid of the heater, blower, AC, auto seatbelts, auto tranny wiring, speaker wiring (will be running new wire for a front component system that'll be installed the after car is running), and all the non essentials to a street-able track car. I'd really like to get rid of the wiring mess in the drivers kick panel if possible, I believe that's the SMJ with all the wires going into a plastic block?

I've heard no front sway isn't bad with coils, but I've also heard your steering response will suck regardless.. I might not have coils right away so I think I'd like to play it safe and try to run a sikky while keeping the tranny in the factory location so I don't need to extend the crossmember mounts or shorten the driveshaft. I'd be fine with notching the pan a little if needed.


Sorry for all the questions, this is my first swap and no build I've seen gives out all the info needed, so thanks for all the help. Maybe all the fine details will be layed out in here for future swaps.

[Fries]

Yes auto xmember can be used since you're modifying it anyway. You can't really drill and just bring the motor forward, its kind of a pain in the ass.
See what this guy had to do in this thread: 1UZ S13 Coupe Build - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/hybrid-section/149706-1uz-s13-coupe-build.html)

I personally think that a $350 driveshaft is worth it because:
A) Less work
B) Better clearance up front for proper radiator fans
C) Weight distribution

[Panda-Eats-240]

Yes auto xmember can be used since you're modifying it anyway. You can't really drill and just bring the motor forward, its kind of a pain in the ass.
See what this guy had to do in this thread: 1UZ S13 Coupe Build - Nissan 240SX Forums (http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/hybrid-section/149706-1uz-s13-coupe-build.html)

I personally think that a $350 driveshaft is worth it because:
A) Less work
B) Better clearance up front for proper radiator fans
C) Weight distribution


Very true, I would like to run some beefier fans up front, and would really like to get as good of a weight distribution as I can with little work involved.

Now I'm wondering if I can skip getting a manual driveshaft and instead get my auto shaft cut to length, otherwise I'll probably end up getting a one-piece.

Edit: Scratch the auto driveshaft idea. The output shaft is a bigger diameter than the manual, it also has a different spline count and is shorter than the manual. I may just wait and go with an upgraded one-piece.

[badass8]

Subscribed. Gonna need this in the future. Wiring is my main concern once I get my swap rolling as I know NOTHING about wiring...

[Panda-Eats-240]

Subscribed. Gonna need this in the future. Wiring is my main concern once I get my swap rolling as I know NOTHING about wiring...

I'll do a detailed walk-through of the wiring once it gets to that point, but so far it has sounded fairly simple as far as other swaps go.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Old school nismo wheel
http://i43.tinypic.com/zkk20w.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/106jb40.jpg

Rough layout for baffles/trap doors
http://i40.tinypic.com/11lq1kx.jpg

[shoguner]

Rough layout for baffles/trap doors
http://i40.tinypic.com/11lq1kx.jpg

Excited for this. i never got around to mine.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Been giving myself a bit of a headache trying to figure out how to remove ALL wiring that's unnecessary, now that the only things I need are gauges, lights, wipers, and pop-up motors. I'm not sure if I want to do a custom/painless kit for ecu/fuel pump/fans/etc, or if it'd be easier to wire it in like factory at this point since I've got everything apart and will be trimming the bundles of wires down.


I'll have to sit down for another couple hours with a FSM and see if I can figure it out, but if anybody knows what the bare essentials of wiring would be in my case, it would be MUCH appreciated! There's a couple little electronic modules in the driver side firewall area that I'm still not sure of, and I'd really like to bypass the messy looking SMJ...

[Panda-Eats-240]

I hit a minor standstill with the project as I quit my job last Thursday due to shitty management expecting me to work for free.

I'm starting this new job in a week or two and will be coming back harder than ever with the extra cash I'll be making. EXPECT TITTIES.

[KevinEdgar]

Looking forward to said "titties"

[Fries]

When it comes time if you want some affordable headers (modified stockers) and an EGR plate, hit up turtle. (http://zilvia.net/f/members/turtle-m3th.html)

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140203_114844701_zpsa1419751.jpg

[Panda-Eats-240]

When it comes time if you want some affordable headers (modified stockers) and an EGR plate, hit up turtle. (http://zilvia.net/f/members/turtle-m3th.html)

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/James118/IMG_20140203_114844701_zpsa1419751.jpg

Thanks, that may be the route I go if I don't do custom obx tundra headers.
I acquired a little cash to drop on it.

Getting:
motor mounts ($200)
Wiring harness ($150)
Upper oil pan ($70)

Now I'm a little lost on a couple things.

1. I'm not sure what bolts to get for everything, with the adapter plate and motor/tranny mounts etc. and what I should use new bolts on. (I already have arp flywheel/pressure plate bolts) Also what I should torque everything to. I'd look in the FSM but being a 1uz I figure there's gonna be some different numbers.

2.Tranny dust plate. Do I need it? Iv only got the automatic one laying out in the snow somewhere. Hopefully the auto and manual plates are interchangeable.




I'd just like some input on what some of you would do next in my position. Car is gutted sitting in the garage, 1uz and tranny on the floor next to it. The chassis harness is completely de-lumed and inside the car, I'm not really sure what to do while I wait for parts.

[Fries]

Thanks, that may be the route I go if I don't do custom obx tundra headers.
I acquired a little cash to drop on it.

Getting:
motor mounts ($200)
Wiring harness ($150)
Upper oil pan ($70)

Now I'm a little lost on a couple things.

1. I'm not sure what bolts to get for everything, with the adapter plate and motor/tranny mounts etc. and what I should use new bolts on. (I already have arp flywheel/pressure plate bolts) Also what I should torque everything to. I'd look in the FSM but being a 1uz I figure there's gonna be some different numbers.

2.Tranny dust plate. Do I need it? Iv only got the automatic one laying out in the snow somewhere. Hopefully the auto and manual plates are interchangeable.




I'd just like some input on what some of you would do next in my position. Car is gutted sitting in the garage, 1uz and tranny on the floor next to it. The chassis harness is completely de-lumed and inside the car, I'm not really sure what to do while I wait for parts.

$150 is a hell of a deal for the wiring! Good job brother.
You can remove your EGR stuff. turtle will also make the block off plates for you. Here's a website on what you'll be removing. (You cannot buy the plates from here anymore)
http://www.lextreme.com/egr.html

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

[JDMcheddar]

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

With the Collins mounts I was able to move my motor far enough forward I could use my stock transmission mount. I had to do this because of my s14 brake booster hit the valve cover. So you dont have to modify it but it would allow you to move the motor farther back in the bay.

[Fries]

With the Collins mounts I was able to move my motor far enough forward I could use my stock transmission mount. I had to do this because of my s14 brake booster hit the valve cover. So you dont have to modify it but it would allow you to move the motor farther back in the bay.

You modified the mounts though right?
That's pretty weird, mine fits fine and I have the auto brake booster, which is larger.

[JDMcheddar]

I didn't have to modify anything. Just moved the engine as the far forward as the mounts went. I think I might have had bolts in the middle of the mount. Can't remember if I had all four. I do know that I for sure had a stock trans mount.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Oakville]

That steering wheel is so fresh and so clean...where on earth did you find it?!

[Panda-Eats-240]

$150 is a hell of a deal for the wiring! Good job brother.
You can remove your EGR stuff. turtle will also make the block off plates for you. Here's a website on what you'll be removing. (You cannot buy the plates from here anymore)
http://www.lextreme.com/egr.html

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

Sounds like your build thread would help others more than mine, do it :P


I've already got the throwout bearing and pilot bushing (still trying to get that damn pilot bearing out). I didn't get anything through Collin's, i got it through a member here as an almost complete swap package. So I'm on my own for bolts, and still need to figure out what size bolts to install the adapter plate and bell housing with.


-For fans I figure a mishimoto radiator with dual electric fans will work nice.
-For power steering I believe i dont need to change anything, the s13 line fits the 1uz PS pump and theres a little slack to work with after removing the bracket holding the line close to the subframe.


Started removing egr, took my sway bar and rusty old end links out, and getting ready for a quick drop-and-fit once motor mounts get here. Or wait til I have all my bolts so I can mate up the tranny.

That steering wheel is so fresh and so clean...where on earth did you find it?!

Thanks, I actually scooped it up quick here on the forums. I started to cover it with purple suede but failed the first time around, and when I peeled the glue off it withered up the finish a bit. Woopsies. Gonna make a tape template when iv got the chance and try again. Really tricky to do a one piece with such harsh angles for the spokes with a no-stretch material, but it'll be sweet when finished.



Sorry bout the drawn out and scattered thread, waiting for papers to get here so I can be tax return ballin'. Let me know if anyone wants pictures of anything.

[Panda-Eats-240]

$$$$:snoop:$$$$
TAX RETURN IS HERE

Ordering motor mounts and transmission re-location plates from turtle m3th on Monday if all goes as planned. I'd love to find a good deal on a wiring harness if anyone could help me out on that, be it stock or plug-n-play..



Here are the hard to find adapter plate bolts needed for SR to 1UZ (size M12x1.25 in grade 10.9) - http://www.mrmetric.com/metric-fasteners/m12-x-1-25-metric-hex-10-9/
I'm still not sure what lengths are needed.
Figure I'll just get 10 of the 60mm. - $22

Ebay upper oil pan - $60
Ebay sr tranny dust plate - $24
Ebay upper intake manifold - $65 (to replace the one that was broken on arrival from shipping and never replaced/refunded. Thanks a lot 'Fidel Cashflo'...)

Looks like it's almost time to start going through the wiring.. this is gonna be a pain:(

[psi999]

Sick. Good to hear on your progress.

[smoked240]

Awesome build! Love the choice of the 1uz. I live just 2 hours north of you!

[Panda-Eats-240]

Awesome build! Love the choice of the 1uz. I live just 2 hours north of you!

Awesome, are you planning on going to Brainerd Proving Grounds this summer? If my car is able, I'm definitely going to make it out for my first event ever.

[smoked240]

Awesome, are you planning on going to Brainerd Proving Grounds this summer? If my car is able, I'm definitely going to make it out for my first event ever.

I'm going to try! It's only a 3 hour drive from me and goes quick after Detroit lakes when you can cruise haha.

I'll be there with my car, just don't think I'll have it track worthy by then..it will be my first actual event also! I hope I can compete but if not meeting people will be awesome! You gonna go to NHRA this year?

[Panda-Eats-240]

I'm going to try! It's only a 3 hour drive from me and goes quick after Detroit lakes when you can cruise haha.

I'll be there with my car, just don't think I'll have it track worthy by then..it will be my first actual event also! I hope I can compete but if not meeting people will be awesome! You gonna go to NHRA this year?


Yeah my car will need to be running awesome or else I'll need to bring a trailer in case something happens while there. I mostly slide around alone on the streets using good judgement, it'll be nice to get out on a track. I don't think I'll be going to many other events this year as I can't do too much traveling and need to start up school :P



On another note, found a bangin' deal on a 1uz harness. Let's hope it's all intact.

[smoked240]

Yeah my car will need to be running awesome or else I'll need to bring a trailer in case something happens while there.it'll be nice to get out on a track. I don't think I'll be going to many other events this year as I can't do too much traveling and need to start up school :P



On another note, found a bangin' deal on a 1uz harness. Let's hope it's all intact.

Yeah that's why if everything works out right ill drive it there but won't slide. If I can get a trailer then I almost have to lol. I'd edited that out, anything on-road illegal is frowned upon here. Kinda like masterbating on an airplane lol.

Nice! Good find. I'm working on re-routing my harness to the trunk! But it's outside in the cold so I only want to freeze my ass off for so long ^.^

[sarhd]

Good info on here. Do a write up on the wiring since that's what I'm about to tackle lol

[Panda-Eats-240]

Just got my motor mounts, tranny plates (to move back a couple inches), and egr block off plates, from turtle m3th
http://i62.tinypic.com/2a0azcx.jpg

Finally got the bearing out with the wet newspaper method, and started pounding in the bushing
http://i58.tinypic.com/5nrpkm.jpg
Though I can't get it to press in all the way. Gonna have to pull it out again with the newspaper method and see what's up.

I wanted to see how it was going to look so I lowered it in quick and snapped some pics,
Sittin' pretty
http://i58.tinypic.com/2l8zptk.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/n6c7rt.jpg

I twisted a couple bolt heads off from the oil pan like a dumbass. Using a ratchet and accidentally switched its rotation while going around the pan quick. So as soon as I get those out I can pull the pan and get it ready for a front sump. Then I can finally f**ing mate the tranny up and actually mock up my mounts.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Alright guys, this has me a little worried. I pulled the oil pan off to find it having this blue fluid in it. Shined a light on it and see its actually green, so it's obviously coolant.

The motor looks pretty clean, and I was told was ~60k miles though it could easily be 200k+... I'm sure it sat for a little while and got moved around, is there any way coolant could make its way to the pan without there being a serious issue?

http://i61.tinypic.com/s6hj48.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/2djzczl.jpg

[psi999]

I've been thnking about this for a good 5 mins now, best i can come up with is if a new rear main seal has been installed while the alloy plate was out some coolant may have run down the back of the block and entered the sump?

Other than that i got nothin'

Engine still turn over by hand if you pull the plugs?

[Def]

That's not coolant. Coolant + oil makes this frothy mess if the engine is run like that (looks like a brown milkshake, or strawberry if the coolant is that pink Toyota long life coolant).

If it hasn't been run, the coolant will obviously not mix with the oil and it'll be very obvious that there is green coolant under the oil.


That said, you're looking at what is probably fairly clean oil that had a greenish tint to it when new. Lots of oil is like that. One that comes to mind is German Castrol Syntec. It looks exactly like that when you put a few miles on it.


Voted definitely not coolant.

[sarhd]

Yeah if it was coolant it would be sludge like and you would be seeing a white tint also

[smoked240]

Yup! That's either clean oil or an additive for oil.

Coolant+oil makes it milky.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Interesting, never heard of blue/green oil before! It does have an even, thicker consistency, so I'm sure it isn't a mix of oil/coolant otherwise I would see the froth or separation between oil and coolant. Thanks for the quick inputs, maybe this motor is in even better shape than I thought.


Well, other good news is I got the bushing in all the way and got a new pressure plate. Not gonna take my chances with the old used crap causing me problems down the line.

Now I just need to find a front sump pan setup...

[psi999]

There wouldn't be any sludge if the engine was dry of oil and coolant was just sitting on the bottom of the pan. Little to no oil and sitting around for a while you won't see sludge.

wipe up some of it with some newspaper and let it sit overnight. If it's coolant/water based it will evaporate. If it's oil it will be the same as when you left it....mystery solved :)

[Panda-Eats-240]

I was assuming turtle meths mounts were solid, but that's not the case. So I picked up some loctite PL S30 polyurethane. (1 tube per mount)

Cleaned the old stock mounts up with simple green and hot water
http://i60.tinypic.com/2ljp6av.jpg

Then filled them up and shaped with a putty blade
http://i61.tinypic.com/2lt0daq.jpg

Then let them cure in warm weather for the day (its cold here, I did it last night and right now they are still a bit gooey)

[turtle m3th]

Good to see another 1uz build thread going. Let me know how everything works out for you, or if you've got any questions.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Good to see another 1uz build thread going. Let me know how everything works out for you, or if you've got any questions.

Thanks, I'm trying to get the move on with it but looking for another job at the same time makes things a little more difficult.


Now that it'll be hardened do you think it would be fine to rotate the mounts 90 degrees so there's more mounting surface mount-to-mount?

[turtle m3th]

You probably could if you'd like to, but I don't think there will be any advantages to doing so. Just make sure to keep the mounts loose until the trans is bolted up with the bracket because that is what determines the engine placement.

[shoguner]

Do your motor mounts not sit directly on the subframe?

[sarhd]

Do your motor mounts not sit directly on the subframe?

No they are conversion brackets you still need motor mounts to go in between them and the subframe

[shoguner]

Weird... Mine sit right on the subframe. I love it.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Weird... Mine sit right on the subframe. I love it.

Yeah I was assuming they were solid, but I kinda like turtles mounts more being that I can change it up easier if I wanna try different hardnesses/heights out.

[turtle m3th]

Did you get that motor mounted up yet?

[Panda-Eats-240]

Did you get that motor mounted up yet?

Hey sorry, I did see your PM, I've been slammed on dealing with housing/schooling/newjob right now otherwise I'd be long done with this swap..

I could bolt it all up just to get mount alignments down but I still need a front sump pan so I'd rather not deal with unbolting it all and doing it back up again. I need some 1UZ god to just be like 'Oi...here's a pan and harness mate...'.

[turtle m3th]

I can handle harnesses now, and I may have a front sump pan hanging out somewhere. I'll look around for it.

[satal95]

How much are you charging for the harness and what's the turn around time

[Panda-Eats-240]

I can handle harnesses now, and I may have a front sump pan hanging out somewhere. I'll look around for it.

That would be amazing, let me know. Otherwise I'm at a standstill for now.

[ZenkiDeven19]

Looking forward to seeing this thing in!

[fmayi1101]

very nice keep it coming.

[adams 02rs]

any updates??

[Panda-Eats-240]

Hi guys, I'm not dead! I cringe at the progress I've made on this.. It's taking me a long time but I promise to come through on it. Slowly but surely.



Here's how she sits on the stock motor mount/turtlemeth combo
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10453306_10202758346894183_832315611756945899_n.jp g

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10445512_10202758347134189_1740780248606511875_n.j pg

I picked up a new energy suspension master bushing kit from a buddy for a sweet price, that's what I'm currently working on.
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/p526x296/10469463_10202862082927519_6235844576116911861_n.j pg?oh=3d8a9e1e3ad11af4a51a9e573675bd37&oe=54265F7E

Tension rods completed with new bushings and #goldmember paint
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10521639_10202870017525879_6143554690302506262_n.j pg



I got excited with my grinder and started on a cowl hood and tubbed fenders :naughtyd:
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/p526x296/10419971_10202848000855476_1597518824143884651_n.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/p526x296/10349953_10202845060541970_6923864873049656194_n.j pg



Solid steering bushing

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/p403x403/10505555_10202844022516020_833955438613879915_n.jp g


I also finally made it out to my first event!!! Brainerd Proving Grounds 2014.1
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/p403x403/1544962_10202823587285152_7450932483020053042_n.jp g


Our convoy for the way there
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/p526x296/10492570_10202812913458313_3814241058309928214_n.j pg


Just one very small picture, I've got loads of pics and vids. Might post a couple more up later.

[Reece]

Hey that black hatch dude bought my old interior parts!!

Who owns the million color one? Saw that guy last weekend. Not a fan...

[Panda-Eats-240]

Hey that black hatch dude bought my old interior parts!!

Who owns the million color one? Saw that guy last weekend. Not a fan...

Haha I think your car made a couple appearances in my pictures. Did he get that weird patterned back seat from you?

Drunk multi-colored galactic neon jizz fight one is Cody's, I'm not the biggest fan (mostly on neon colors) but it's definitely something different which I do like, and some areas would look sweet if it was consistent across the whole car

[chorie86]

Hey sorry, I did see your PM, I've been slammed on dealing with housing/schooling/newjob right now otherwise I'd be long done with this swap..

I could bolt it all up just to get mount alignments down but I still need a front sump pan so I'd rather not deal with unbolting it all and doing it back up again. I need some 1UZ god to just be like 'Oi...here's a pan and harness mate...'.

cool build im doing a 1uz s13 as well. i have had many problem since its all new to me i would tell you not to buy a front sump just remove the front sway bar that would give you 2' to move the engine the front and youre able to use a youre stock s13 drive shaft. i have been busy at work but im in the process of milling some adapters for the sway bar. at moment im stuck with the wiring can anyone help me out

[Panda-Eats-240]

cool build im doing a 1uz s13 as well. i have had many problem since its all new to me i would tell you not to buy a front sump just remove the front sway bar that would give you 2' to move the engine the front and youre able to use a youre stock s13 drive shaft. i have been busy at work but im in the process of milling some adapters for the sway bar. at moment im stuck with the wiring can anyone help me out


The rear/mid sump will not clear the crossmember, and I'd prefer to retain the best weight ratio possible and have room up front for a beefier radiator at the same time.

[chorie86]

ill try to post some pictures on how the engine sit in the car. my 1uz is front sump from ls , if irs rear sump its from a sc.

[Panda-Eats-240]

ill try to post some pictures on how the engine sit in the car. my 1uz is front sump from ls , if irs rear sump its from a sc.

I was told the motor was from an LS and swapped pans for a rear sump. Not exactly sure what car he had the motor swapped into.


And from my understanding, theres no way the pan will clear with rear sump with how close the crossmember is to the firewall. If you're saying it can be raised high enough to clear the crossmember, I'd rather keep it low.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Still not dead, I ordered up the oil pan conversion setup. I'll wait for that to get here and then can mate the tranny up and get everything final mounted.

I see the pictures have been removed from the host, I'll try to update the thread later with photobucket this time.

[OkiDori17]

In for the wiring =)

Contemplating doing this swap on one of my hatchs and run it while I finish my 2J. It'll all come down to $$$ and how easy the wiring is.
I have tons of swaps under my belt, just about everything you can put into an S chassis so that's not an issue. I just have two 2J swaps I'm working on right now, so time is scarce. I just hate running this stock KA, and if it's an easy enough swap, it could be fun just to throw it in one weekend.

I also haven't even seen anyone running the 1UZ in person yet, that's why it appeals to me.

[Panda-Eats-240]

My bad guys, this is still happening. I plan to have it finished up within the next month or two, and then will have to go through and basically just re-make a build thread because this has been pathetic.

[914Slide]

any updates on this ?