where to start?? NEW TO RWD/S13 GAME

[DRFIRME]

new to the whole rwd and nissan game,PROUD new owner of a sr swapped s13. WHAT R THE MAJOR NEEDED UPGRADES TO START OFF?
already has stance coilovers and the swap.
any help appreciated

[Therealdapnyc]

Rebuild the suspension completely included a master bushing kit if not done and depending on wat you wanna do so many options


Sent from dap using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[DRFIRME]

so like a energy suspension bushing kit?? i forgot to add, the car will be more of a drag, car then drift,,IM A FWD HONDA GUY,LOL, now getting into the nissan game, so im COMPLETELY CLUELESS.

[Therealdapnyc]

You gotta slide it it's a 240 man lol


Sent from dap using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[DRFIRME]

IM SURE IT WILL ,, ESPECIALLY GOING DOWN THE TRACK,LOL, all my other nissan friends r into drifting, already baggin on me for wanting to use it for drag,

[Therealdapnyc]

I would to lol


Sent from dap using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[DRFIRME]

so wat else besides the bushings n say a mount kit,, anything super important thats like a MUST??

[fliprayzin240sx]

You can start by learning how to type. When you're done with that, you can then start by learning about the car first. Figure out what's already done to it before you start tearing into it and potentially replacing stuff that you dont need to replace.

[Fuego]

There are no "needed/necessary" upgrades. Read up on your car, learn to drive it, modify from there.

[Therealdapnyc]

I agree with these guys def do your research but you might as well replace it all just so you know yourself it's good to go and not going by someone's word


Sent from dap using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[DRFIRME]

rather start fresh, but ya, i agree as far as learning the car, so what would be considered the chassis "weak spot"?

[Therealdapnyc]

Starting fresh is the best way to go as you remove you'll find some things you didn't need to replace and can store it for later use when something breaks


Sent from dap using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[acslater9]

You can start by learning how to type. When you're done with that, you can then start by learning about the car first. Figure out what's already done to it before you start tearing into it and potentially replacing stuff that you dont need to replace.

I died when I saw this. lol

Well like others said do research. You should've gotten a stock car its way better than someone elses "not finished" car.

[Rayne]

There are no "needed/necessary" upgrades. Read up on your car, learn to drive it, modify from there.

Rebuild the suspension completely included a master bushing kit if not done and depending on wat you wanna do so many options

No need for anyone to say anything more in this thread than what I have quoted above.

[DRFIRME]

CAR JUST ONLY HAS SR SWAP AND STANCE COILOVERS,, TRADED FOR A STOCK 1990 HONDA,, HOW COULD I PASS THE DEAL,LOL :w00t:

[240boi115]

is it a stock sr? how many miles on it? the very first thing i do when i get a car is check for what it has and doesnt have ex( rust, any damage that wasnt told to me, and ESPECIALLY half ass work) from there i do a full personal service on the car, fluid check, oil change, radiator flush, ect. then repair any half ass work as itll be a pain in your ass later in your build. a weak spot in the chassis?? well to be honest its a friggin 20 year old car so its for sure weaker than when it was new. since you want to drag the car you need a cage. NEED A CAGE!!! itll save your life bro and depending on if your car is a hatch or coupe reflects on how much bracing will be needed. we all know the whole coupe vs hatch debate but true to speak if your car is a hatch youll need some extra bracing to handle the stress your car will be handling. im sure ive missed a shit ton of other tips and shit but thats what i got for you thus far.

[DRFIRME]

thanks for the info guys:hug:

[OMFGeofffff]

NOS, two of the big bottles. Put it on my tab at Harry's.

[sleepyS14se]

http://zilvia.net/f/motorsports-skilled-driving/542428-build-drift-beginners.html



this is not a game btw, this is real life AFAIK....maybe i need to re-evaluate what a game is IDK...

[DRFIRME]

[QUOTE=sleepyS14se;5511912]http://zilvia.net/f/motorsports-skilled-driving/542428-build-drift-beginners.html



NOT BUILDING FOR DRIFT

[sleepyS14se]

if this is strictly for drag use than just stick with your honda.

[jr_ss]

Wow, there is a lot of full retard in here...

Read anything and everything pertaining to chassis and engine related items. A tune up would be a great place to start, along with making the car safe, such as brakes, tires, alignment. Then fixing issues like bad bushings, ball joints, etc, etc. You have more than enough work for a few weeks, come back with specific questions.

[mechanicalmoron]

so like a energy suspension bushing kit?? i forgot to add, the car will be more of a drag, car then drift,,IM A FWD HONDA GUY,LOL, now getting into the nissan game, so im COMPLETELY CLUELESS.

Unless it's TOTALLY trashed, don't swap a rubber bushing for a poly bushing, in the rear. It may be superior on the two connections of the lca to the subframe (since they can't twist, and thus bind, because there are 2), but the multilink movement creates binding issues that can make the suspension travel unpredictable, as they catch and slip.

The bushings are probably fine, IF any change in height via the coils involved also breaking and re-torquing all bolts securing bushings, with the car sitting on the ground or the suspension arm jacked up (if you do this, first record your wheel arch height on the ground, then record your coil height, then set your coil to max low, so you can jack the arm high enough without lifting your car off the stands.). The bushings that are probably bad are the subframe ones - you can tell if they where replaced with solids or have had collars installed by lying next to your car, and if they haven't, it's a half hour job with 4 bolts.

You need a torque wrench to touch that stuff. Read the FSM, which you will find if you google "s13 fsm", or "s13 fsm nico" or something like that. It's got your torque specs, and is a great FREE reference, strait from the horses mouth, to read through before you even start a project.

There's probably nothing that needs to be done to your car, just ongoing maintainence, and learn about it. Keep your honda shit OUT, do NOT replace all the bushings or arms just because you can get ebay ones, do NOT buy or use shitty megan/godspeed/other knockoff type brands, it's FAR better to have OEM. Don't slam it, it will handle best at stock height, or just a tad (like an inch, or less) lower, unless you have thousands of dollars in fancy new knuckles, arms, and the works.

Don't drift it into anything. Don't try to drift in any situation where there's anything anywhere near you - you will hit it. Don't even try to drift it, if nothing was mentioned about it it's got an open diff, it won't have proper throttle steer because only one wheel will be spinning faster that the ground. (it will get about 20 degrees sideways in first, and then stop wanting to, because of that dragging wheel - and when it snaps strait, it will be hard and abrupt - it will make you look like a ricer tool who can't drive, not a cool drifter) Learn to drive it and get to know it before you think about drifting.

[Han]

yeah don't bother drifting with the open diff. it jerks harder than you would think lol. i fishtailed once and spun the other way but i knew what i was risking and it was a safe place. i just traded my 93 civic for a complete stock 89 240 a couple months ago and i'm so pleased with it. i'd say start with sway bars and replace shot bushings with oem. i was debating going full energy suspension but after reading more, its not worth it. just do all maintenance work that it needs and get it running as solid as you can. replace anything thats broken. upgrade the brakes. clean out all the carbon deposits if you feel like. i've seen a couple ka's and they were full of carbon. one had a leaky valve. one option is tear off the head and replace the head gasket, clean out the ports, valve, intake, etc. second option; i'm in the process of running sea foam through everything. i've seen it done before and it burns out a lot of carbon deposits so i'm giving it a shot. once the tank goes empty i'll finish the process. some say it's not a good idea others say it works wonders, just expect to replace o2 sensor and plugs afterwards. you can try replacing the rotor, wires, and plugs, it's inexpensive and you'll probably feel a slight difference or at least you'll see it in the mpg's. clean the maf, may or may not help but doesn't hurt to try. put some redline mt 75w-90 oil in the transmission. get a stage 2 clutch and a short shifter just for the feel if you want. and a light flywheel while you're at it. i'm looking to boost but i'll need to save up a whole lot and learn a ton. it's something you'll have to decide for yourself

[mechanicalmoron]

yeah don't bother drifting with the open diff. it jerks harder than you would think lol. i fishtailed once and spun the other way but i knew what i was risking and it was a safe place. i just traded my 93 civic for a complete stock 89 240 a couple months ago and i'm so pleased with it. i'd say start with sway bars and replace shot bushings with oem. i was debating going full energy suspension but after reading more, its not worth it. just do all maintenance work that it needs and get it running as solid as you can. replace anything thats broken. upgrade the brakes. clean out all the carbon deposits if you feel like. i've seen a couple ka's and they were full of carbon. one had a leaky valve. one option is tear off the head and replace the head gasket, clean out the ports, valve, intake, etc. second option; i'm in the process of running sea foam through everything. i've seen it done before and it burns out a lot of carbon deposits so i'm giving it a shot. once the tank goes empty i'll finish the process. some say it's not a good idea others say it works wonders, just expect to replace o2 sensor and plugs afterwards. you can try replacing the rotor, wires, and plugs, it's inexpensive and you'll probably feel a slight difference or at least you'll see it in the mpg's. clean the maf, may or may not help but doesn't hurt to try. put some redline mt 75w-90 oil in the transmission. get a stage 2 clutch and a short shifter just for the feel if you want. and a light flywheel while you're at it. i'm looking to boost but i'll need to save up a whole lot and learn a ton. it's something you'll have to decide for yourself

There's some horrible advice there, IMO.

Like, if the motor's in the car, and runs, removing the OEM head/headgasket is NOT a good idea. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, you don't need to remove the head to de-coke it and the gasket should be good for about as long as any other part in the motor, and lots longer than some.

De-coking is a matter of keeping all the fluids clean, and when you run the motor, running it hot and for a long time. doing seafoam through the brake booster is fine and will address the carbon buildup in the intake, but putting it (or, more than a fraction of what they suggest) in your oil, or doing more than idling a minute with it in there, seems stupid.

[Han]

There's some horrible advice there, IMO.

Like, if the motor's in the car, and runs, removing the OEM head/headgasket is NOT a good idea. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, you don't need to remove the head to de-coke it and the gasket should be good for about as long as any other part in the motor, and lots longer than some.

De-coking is a matter of keeping all the fluids clean, and when you run the motor, running it hot and for a long time. doing seafoam through the brake booster is fine and will address the carbon buildup in the intake, but putting it (or, more than a fraction of what they suggest) in your oil, or doing more than idling a minute with it in there, seems stupid.

those were just the thoughts that passed through my head from personal experience. not the best idea unless it's going to be a re/build, or in my case you have a spare block. i'm still all for the sea foam though. i don't know why you'd recommend vacuuming it over pouring it in the oil or gas tank. that's the least safest route to go. the percentage of seafoam being ignited in the oil or gas is far less than thru the brake booster line. here's a link on someone else who did it, there's no real proof, just a story. but i believe it, also there's a list of good stuff to do
Car runs like new...here's what I did : 240SX Technical Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/car-runs-like-new-here-s-what-i-did-t2312.html)

when it comes down to it, i would probably just get new ignition parts, ignition timing, do maintenance stuff, and hook it up to an oscillator to see how it looks. then you'll know if there's anything else wrong or if you're clear

[mechanicalmoron]

those were just the thoughts that passed through my head from personal experience. not the best idea unless it's going to be a re/build, or in my case you have a spare block. i'm still all for the sea foam though. i don't know why you'd recommend vacuuming it over pouring it in the oil or gas tank. that's the least safest route to go. the percentage of seafoam being ignited in the oil or gas is far less than thru the brake booster line. here's a link on someone else who did it, there's no real proof, just a story. but i believe it, also there's a list of good stuff to do
Car runs like new...here's what I did : 240SX Technical Forum (http://forums.nicoclub.com/car-runs-like-new-here-s-what-i-did-t2312.html)

when it comes down to it, i would probably just get new ignition parts, ignition timing, do maintenance stuff, and hook it up to an oscillator to see how it looks. then you'll know if there's anything else wrong or if you're clear

The whole point is ignition.

It thins your oil, and eats your rings.

Go ahead and try it. I did.

[Han]

The whole point is ignition.

It thins your oil, and eats your rings.

Go ahead and try it. I did.
the whole point of what?

i don't understand what you're trying to prove here, why would you try it if you knew it would ruin your rings

it's still running good and about a half tank left. once it's empty i'm changing the oil. not sure how 8oz of seafoam in about 120oz of oil is gonna make much of a difference. maybe you fried your rings from going thru the brake booster line too much at once? or maybe they were almost already fried. god only knows

[sleepyS14se]

yeah don't bother drifting with the open diff. it jerks harder than you would think lol. i fishtailed once and spun the other way but i knew what i was risking and it was a safe place. i just traded my 93 civic for a complete stock 89 240 a couple months ago and i'm so pleased with it. i'd say start with sway bars and replace shot bushings with oem. i was debating going full energy suspension but after reading more, its not worth it. just do all maintenance work that it needs and get it running as solid as you can. replace anything thats broken. upgrade the brakes. clean out all the carbon deposits if you feel like. i've seen a couple ka's and they were full of carbon. one had a leaky valve. one option is tear off the head and replace the head gasket, clean out the ports, valve, intake, etc. second option; i'm in the process of running sea foam through everything. i've seen it done before and it burns out a lot of carbon deposits so i'm giving it a shot. once the tank goes empty i'll finish the process. some say it's not a good idea others say it works wonders, just expect to replace o2 sensor and plugs afterwards. you can try replacing the rotor, wires, and plugs, it's inexpensive and you'll probably feel a slight difference or at least you'll see it in the mpg's. clean the maf, may or may not help but doesn't hurt to try. put some redline mt 75w-90 oil in the transmission. get a stage 2 clutch and a short shifter just for the feel if you want. and a light flywheel while you're at it. i'm looking to boost but i'll need to save up a whole lot and learn a ton. it's something you'll have to decide for yourself


this is like the most mixed post of correct and incorrect info
Bushings are top priority
Short shifter is in vein and not needed
removing a head to just clean it is just to make ya feel good (not needed)
redline mt90 is excellent
seafoam helps but doesn't make miracles.
light flywheel is not needed to drift
get your diff welded

BUSHINGS ARE TOP PRIORITY

[DRFIRME]

Thank u mechanicalmoron, thats the type of info i was lookin for,, n no not stricly drag use, its a daily driver that will b used to race as opposed to drifting, yes i leave the real drags to both my hondas,, i just wanted a clean fun car to boost around in , wanted to finally b open minded to new things/cars so went rwd, that being said figured nothing better then a s13

[DRFIRME]

Im not really into half ass things, so aftermarket 2way diff is in the future,, after car is running proper n what not, i have questions about what diff/rear to use, but ill search for old threads before bringing that up,,n thanks for all the info guys

[DRFIRME]

N yes,, them ebay arms/parts are always a no-no in my book,, my hondas arent ur average ricer u see on the street, there legit cars,lol,

[mechanicalmoron]

the whole point of what?

i don't understand what you're trying to prove here, why would you try it if you knew it would ruin your rings

it's still running good and about a half tank left. once it's empty i'm changing the oil. not sure how 8oz of seafoam in about 120oz of oil is gonna make much of a difference. maybe you fried your rings from going thru the brake booster line too much at once? or maybe they were almost already fried. god only knows

When I say "thins", I mean "cuts". Seafoam is naptha and rubbing alcohol, if you check the msds.

I'm sure it is still running good. What's the tank got to do with anything? Seafoam, like any other motor flush, should only be run for a short time, at low rpm. You can leave pretty much all you want in your gas, if you don't mind high alcohol gas, and you can introduce it through the booster and it dissolves crap in your intake and combustion chambers, but if it's in the oil it cuts it. If you do it through the booster you should probably change your ail after just because of all the crud, but there's no particular risk to the motor, if it's sound.

And, who knows about my rings? I know, exactly. Forgot I had a full dose of it in the motor and was going to drive it gently and briefly, but then ended up going somewhere instead of changing my oil. Didn't change it for a hundred miles or so (they SAY you can always leave it in, anyways.... "safe" and whatnot), and now it smokes way worse than before, but all cylinders have equal compression.... because the seafoam kept the oil from doing it's job and preventing metal/metal contact, and wore the crap out of all the rings/cylinders at once.

So, like I said: it's a really really bad idea, but don't take my word for it, try your luck.

[DRFIRME]

ok so im being told a welded diff will be just as good ,if not better then a aftermarket 2wat,, speaking in terms of drag, not drifting, yet he says just as good for drift,,is this true??

[Fuego]

A welded better than a 2-way? Psh open is the way to go.

[240boi115]

hahaha^^^^ this guy lmao

[mechanicalmoron]

ok so im being told a welded diff will be just as good ,if not better then a aftermarket 2wat,, speaking in terms of drag, not drifting, yet he says just as good for drift,,is this true??

If your 240 is making enough power for drag to be remotely meaningful, you will have put enough money into it to easily justify the 500 dollars or so that an r200 spool costs. Drag with a stock SR is totally and utterly fucking stupid, a camry would win. Do one pass. Or two. And then you've felt all that drag will make you feel. And drag cars are fucking useless to even get to the track.

Welding is just a half assed spool.

And driving cars with spools on the street is commonly accepted as stupid and masochistic, it's just ghetto welded spool 240 guys who get online and say it's okay.

So, if you want to drive to the track, you need a 2-way.

Not knowing this simple shit, you should NOT do ANYTHING to your car, especially not what your friends/acquaintainces tell you to. Slow and steady, you shouldn't modify anything, you should drive it around a lot, you should mantain things without "upgrading" anything until you're really familliar with the car.