91 Ka problems...

[240-porkchop-sx]

Hey everyone...b4 i start i want to let u know that i've searched for 2 days and went to other sites, and tried to resolve this...but nothing has changed!

Here is the prob:
There is an idle problem, when idling it will move +/- 50-75 rpm...which maybe be normal...but if quickly give it some gas, it doesn't response right away, then when the rpms come down to idle it will dip down to about 300rpm, then go back to normal ~700-800. Also sometimes it does the same thing when i stop and engage the clutch.
Also when giving full throttle around 2k rpm, it doesn't have the response it should!

What i've done is changed the plugs to ngk plat's, installed injen intake (not really a solution...just had to be done :) ) , cleaned maf, cleaned dist cap and rotor...i notice some people recommend to clean the AIV, but i don't know what that is. Is it the air resonator, the lil black box in front of the clutch fluid/brake? cuz i don't have the stock airbox/piping. I've even been running injector cleaner every fill!

Also when i driving at a constant speed the car seems to hesitate?!..if that makes any sense. I'll be driving at 60km/h and it seems it goes and slows, goes and slows...but it's not very obvious.

I apologize again for this post...i've read all the idle problem threads in the past and it still won't go away.

PLEASE help....my 90 sohc had better response then my dohc!

thanks

[mjjstang]

IACV is that what your talking about, It is on your intake manifold, it has its own gasket and is really the only thing that connects to manifold besides TB and vairous hoses. at least that is how it is on the sr, I know ka has more emissions devices so it might be harder to find but it should be between intake manifold and the block, you know where all that shit is that you cant get to unless the manifold is off, hope this helps.

[240-porkchop-sx]

Ok thanks, i'll try cleaning that up later tonight.

[mjjstang]

what happened with mine on my sr, is it was seized, im pretty sure they have the same concept on the ka so you might need a new one. I priced one from the dealer for the sr at 180 (sr20de) but im sure you could find a manifold in for sale for like 25 and usually they have em. OH wait, I just remembered I have a ka manifold in my garage. if it ends up you need one send me a pm.

[stinky_180]

i had that problem, all i did was adjust the throttle cable. to do that, next to the throttle body, there are two nuts, one close to the throttle body and one right next to it further from the TB. loose the closer one, then tighten the further one. dont do it too much or your throttle might always be open. so just keep on testing, warm up car to operating temp and car is idle 700 +/-50. depending what you set your idle at and what not.

ok i'm stupid and i just realised you said "Also when giving full throttle around 2k rpm, it doesn't have the response it should!" that is because your maf is messed up. there is a safety system on the ecu to make the car run without a maf. the car will run up two 2000-2500 rpm and thats all it will go due to the ecu. so you might of not cleaned the maf/afm correctly or that maf/afm is finally quitting on you, or harness could be messed up in some way and if not your ecu is outputting wrong signals which means = new ecu ^^.

hope this helped a little bit....

[240-porkchop-sx]

Well i cleaned the trottle body...but it was spotless to begin with. And nothing really changed. This problem isn't major, it's actualy not really noticable unless u know the car. The car well still easily kick up to 6g's rpm, but when "punched" at 2-2-5g's it seems to hesitate. I dunno if that has to due with the gears of the Ka? ... since some say it is a truck engine :rant:

But i will reclean the maf and see if that helps.
I don't know if the ecu is malfunctioning, otherwise the problem would be consistant, wouldn't it?

thanks for the help.

[240-porkchop-sx]

Well the maf is cleaned again....and still no luck.
i don't really know what else it can be...i don't really feel like taking to Nissan and paying $90/hr :( but i may have to ...

[Ghettokracker71]

90 fucking bucks a fucking hour ? :ghey: Time for you to find a new mechanic my freind.

[Ghettokracker71]

KA... since some say it is a truck engine :rant:



I feel like fucking ripping the head of anybody that thinks that. The viper V-10 was put in a truck,does that mean its a truck engine too? The 5.0 was put in a truck,does that mean its a truck engine? Hell the fucking 13B Rotary was in a truck....still not a truck engine. The KA24E and KA24DE were both engines of the Nissan Hardbody(mostly SOHC,later DOHC..) and the current Nissan Frontier(DOHC) but they are different then the counter part found in the FWD Altima(not the new one) and the S-chassis. Was it put in a truck? Yes. Is it the same in the truck and 240sx? NO.

[240-porkchop-sx]

thanks for that enlightenment!?!
You got any ideas about the problem?

[Startours7]

I had the same problem with my 92. Cleaned the maf, nothing. Replaced the maf, no more problem, well unless you count the problem of the damb part costing 495.00.

They never had the DE in the hardbodys just the E.
The first one had the Z24i (I think)
The fronty's had the DE
Now the have or the next will have The VQ25de

[S13Grl]

I'll bet you $10 it's your injectors. Got a multimeter?

[S13Grl]

P.S. - Yeah, I'm broke. ;)

[Ghettokracker71]

They never had the DE in the hardbodys just the E.
The first one had the Z24i (I think)
The fronty's had the DE
Now they have or the next will have The VQ25de

Thanks for the correction! Are you sure about the SOHC ? The frontier wasn't named such until 2000 IIRC b/c my brother got the first year of the redesigned one in 2001...The current frontier runs the KA24DE as the base engine. Actually the new base engine will be the QR25DE, yes the engine from the SE-R Spec V; Modified for RWD duty. There was even a thread about how cool it'd be to have a QR powered 240:)

[240-porkchop-sx]

I'll bet you $10 it's your injectors. Got a multimeter?
hmmm 10 bucks CND or USD ?..lol
I can get ahold of a multimeter, so what exactly do i do with it? and what am i looking for?

thanx

[mjjstang]

well unless you count the problem of the damb part costing 495.00.



Are you kidding me you got F*cked its called buying a gently used one for 25 bucks, shit ive bough perfect z32 mafs for like 50. but yes it might be a good idea to get a maf New or used becasue that just happened on my dads car and cleaning it did nothing but a new one fixed it perfect.

[S13Grl]

OK, what you do is remove the injector connectors. Set your multimeter to measure resistance (it's got that Ohm sign, you know what I'm talking about, it's like a half circle), put each metal piece on each of the probes on the injector. They should read 11kiloohms. Anything more or less then that is the notorious nissan injector problem. And if I win, it's $10US. If you win, it's $10 of yours. I won't pay you anyway, you wouldn't pay me either :).

[240-porkchop-sx]

Sounds good, i'll check the injectors over the weekend.
And as for the bets, we'll just keep tabs!:)

Thanks again for all your help...i'll keep you posted

[240-porkchop-sx]

OK, well i checked the injectors there all at 11.6 and 11.7 ohms.
any other ideas, maf is cleaned ecu is reset.....

i dunno

[240-porkchop-sx]

Do you think maybe it could be a sensor?
What exactly do i need to check the codes from the ecu? for my supra i had a harness hooked to my laptop, but im sure that won't work for the s13.

This is really starting to piss me off....to the point im looking at a stealth twin to buy!

[sykikchimp]

have you checked your timing?

Sounds like your timing is retarded. Maybe check the ECU for codes.

[240-porkchop-sx]

Sounds like your timing is retarded. Maybe check the ECU for codes.

Sorry, but how do i check the ecu for codes. I searched in FAQ and found what they are, but it doesn't say how/where to get them from? Do i need a special unit?
Would the ecu show any errors even if my check engine light is not on?

[DJ_Sunrise]

http://www.240sx.org/faq/ :Owned: look in there, theres tons of stuff in there.

oh yea, almost forgot.. yea, the S13 came with only a couple codes compared to the S14, but checking the ecu will tell u if theres anything major up. just look up in that url for checking the ECU. if u wanna know if ur AIV is clogged, look around the engine bay. if ur engine bay is clean, the AIV will be clean(such as mine). if ur bay looks like shit and crud everywhere, then the AIV will be about the same :) good luck.

btw.. i had a similar problem, check your engine grounding. i had a loss of power and shitty idle. Just replace the whoooole battery terminal connected to intake plenum, and run a secondary somewhere eles. if thats not it, replace ur fuel filter with a 300zx one. id say replace your o2 sensor and CT sensor, but that has very little to do with idleing. hell, do it anyway for now, its only $40 for both.. O2 sensor and coolant temp sensor, remember that. hmm.. maybe check the fuel pump? btw, make sure that all vacuum lines connected to your intake are OK. make sure theres nothing obstructing them, and they are nice and tight, this may be the problem as well. hope this helps~



~Sunrise

[240-porkchop-sx]

Thanks for you response sunrise, my engine bay is unfortunately dirty!
i found the aiv cleaning in the faq, but it doesn't say where it's located. I took out my factory air box and plastic piping running to the intake manifold with injen stuff.

The only thing that is still factory for the intake is this lil black box, which has a hose running from the maf adaptor to it. Then has a hose running from under this "magic box" to some other metal gizmo (no idea what this junk is). But i squeezed the hose from the maf adaptor that runns to it and it didn't make a difference.

If you can let me know where the aiv is that would be great. Also what is the advantage of upgrading to a 300zx fuel filter?

thanks

[DJ_Sunrise]

that little box might be it my friend ;-) lol. the metal piece is what you want to take apart and clean, the one connected to the plastic box. im not sure what the advantage of the 300z filter is cause being the dumby i am sometimes.. when i replaced my fuel filter, i forgot i can use the 300z one. im sure it just allows for more fuel flow. since its only $10 im gonna just replace it asap anyway. oh yea, make sure that the actual air filter on the intake is clean. did you try spraying down the Mass Air Flow Sensor? hey, if you need a factory service manual, ill upload one to you, just contact me on AIM, my names AnubisWH. i recommend you go to an auto store, buy some greased lightning engine cleaning stuff(spray bottle, purple, cant remember name of the stuff :duh: ) while keeping ur car running spray the living shitt out of your engine bay, while flushing the stuff with water in between, and a nice drenching afterwords. just dont go crazy ;-) but otherwise, its safe to do. did you check your engine grounds yet? that might do it, its what fixed my idle :w00t: on S13's lotsa stuff can cause wobbly idle.. but we'll fix it.

~Sunrise

[sykikchimp]

300zx is common b/c it's cheaper than the 240sx one, and it's bigger so you won't have to replace it as soon.

[RedlineRacer]

[QUOTE=stinky_180]
ok i'm stupid and i just realised you said "Also when giving full throttle around 2k rpm, it doesn't have the response it should!" that is because your maf is messed up. there is a safety system on the ecu to make the car run without a maf. the car will run up two 2000-2500 rpm and thats all it will go due to the ecu. so you might of not cleaned the maf/afm correctly or that maf/afm is finally quitting on you, or harness could be messed up in some way and if not your ecu is outputting wrong signals which means = new ecuQUOTE]

Umm... He didn't say it wouldn't go past 2k rpms. He just said it was slow getting there. Mine does the same damn thing. I've replaced so many damn parts and it still didn't fix it. Here's my list so far:

new 300zx Fuel Filter
new o2 sensor
new air filter
new TPS sensor
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
new distributor cap
new distributor rotor
injectors (not new, but in good condition)
fuel pressure regulator (also not new, but in good condition)
new fuel pump

cleaned MAFS
cleaned AICV
cleaned throttle body
tinkered with the throttle cables

I think I have spent almost $400 and probably about 30 hours trying to fix this problem, and still no luck.

Also, I had a mechanic do a diagnostic test on it, and it came back clean.

[240-porkchop-sx]

-Sunrise- that would be awsome for the service manual. You wouldn't have msn by

[240-porkchop-sx]

-Sunrise- that would be awsome for the service manual. You wouldn't have msn by chance would you? Otherwise i will sign up with aim.

thanks again

[DJ_Sunrise]

guys, check the engine grounding!! remember, our cars are practically run on electricity!!!*not really, but u get the point. all our systems on the car are controlled by electronics one way or another. i recommend everyone replaces their battery terminals, and neg. battery wire, and setup a 2ndary ground wire by the front right(passenger) strut. I sure do have msn.. names is Ouija_GIMpoid. cya on there


~Sunrise

[240-porkchop-sx]

heres an update: I cleaned the distributor cap terminals...they had carbon build up. So far the idle is dead on at 700rpm....but the car is still sluggish during acceleration at 2-2.5k, and during a constant speed..

- Sunrise i'm still trying to track you down on AIM or MSN... :)

[Ghettokracker71]

Have you checked your plugs? How old are your wires? What about your coil? You might want to replace your rotor button b/c its only like $10 while your at it.

I just replaced my plugs,wires,dist. cap and rotor button and it made a HUGE difference. Just some ideas:)

[240-porkchop-sx]

I replaced the plugs with ngk plats, i ordered a new dist cap and rotor (will be here in 5 days)...oh ya i looked at the old rotor and how to i take the damn thing off...my kad24e had a screw on the side, but the ka24de has no screw that i could see?

I haven't changed the wires on the car since i owned it (2yrs )..but they look to be in good shape. Id there a way to tell if it needs changing?
Where abouts is the coil located?

Thank for your help

[DJ_Sunrise]

hey porkchop.. im not exactly sure what my msn name is lol. so just try through AIM :) my name there is ANUBISWH , just gimme a general time when you can go on, and ill try too. im east coast btw. the ignition coil is.. kinds by where the intake box is, its got a wire plugged into it by the distributor. :w00t: if you have that sluggishness.. check ur engine grounds. it costs $6 to buy a new battery wire, so replace the one grounded to ur engine entirely, and setup a secondary. this could do it if everything else is ok.



~Sunrise

[MELLO*SOS]

I'm having virtually the same thing... The car has slow accel from 2k-4k, then it takes off nice at 5k. I changed the fuel filter and plugs, with no luck. I'm thinking it's either TPS, or MAF. But after reading this, it could possibly be engine grounds.