KA24DE-T Help

[imperfect]

Hey so I recently purchased this car with the only information being that the lower timing chain needs to be replaced. Before pulling the motor apart we decided to try and start it just to see if it needed a new lower timing chain. Turns out that it's not broken and when we crank it, we get fuel and pretty sure we get spark. The car backfires very badly too. My guess is that the timing skipped because the previous owner said the car just completely died when he was driving and it wouldn't start back up. Here's a video of us trying to start it, any help is appreciated. Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fjMq3L9v9U

http://i.imgur.com/vQQZO3Rl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CNB6Bi8l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wwsPKr8l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5muvsOkl.jpg

Here's links to the pictures orignal size, much easier to see the timing marks, any help is appreciated, never done anything with timing on these motors, go figure!

http://i.imgur.com/wwsPKr8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5muvsOk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vQQZO3R.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CNB6Bi8.jpg

[imperfect]

bump could use any suggestions or ideas guys. Really appreciate it. Even someone flaming would be better than complete silence. I have tried searching around and have some ideas but to no avail.

[Kingtal0n]

flame flame
whats that? A turbo KA? Get REAL! And why the heat wrap? Dont you know that's going to melt your exhaust manifold? No wonder it doesnt run! Somebody disabled the engine to prevent the manifold from warping!
/flame flame

OH GOD I just listened to the video. DO NOT CRANK IT LIKE THAT. Do you hear how the engine STOPS suddenly? Thats because your distributor is sending spark at the WRONG TIME. You need to fix that first. Im not sure how on a KA, but ALL internal combustion engines should be piston #1 TDC with the distributor's rotor pointing just at cylinder #1. Yours is obviously pointing after it during tdc. So I would say, distributor is 1 tooth off.

theres probably a method in the FSM (there usually is a method with these engines) but if I was there, I Would just yank the dist. and turn the gear slightly one way and re-engage it. if that doesnt work, turn it back the other direction, an extra tooth.

[imperfect]

I bought the car as is, plans to go SR20 in the summer, lack of funds keep me with the current setup though. I've actually come a good ways on this.

So I started pulling everything apart in attempt to swap the head as I assumed the valves were bent, once I got front cover off and tried to rotate the crank I noticed the timing gear was moving. That's when I realized the bolt that should hold it in place was literally stripped out! On top of that one of the camshaft bearing caps was broke off in the head. I can't even begin to guess how the timing gear bolt got stripped. I mean the bolt itself is fine, but the threads inside the head are like completely gone, I can imagine what the previous owner was doing to cause that much wear/tear on it. Somehow the guides were all fine and chain was actually fine too, just clearly way out of time.

I'm now doing a head swap with a good donor motor my friend had. We just got the head pulled tonight but stopped because it got cold/dark. Tomorrow we should hopefully have the head back on and everything bolted back together. One can only hope, though.

[240sxfan6882]

Even someone flaming would be better than complete silence. I have tried searching around and have some ideas but to no avail.http://goo.gl/sO2Dcs

Go research at www.ka-t.org ? Index page (http://www.ka-t.org)

That's all KA-stuff, all day-everyday.
GL

[imperfect]

Thanks, I have no idea how I forgot about ka-t. I think I've pinpointed what the problem is, Hopefully the head swap fixes it all. Will update as I get farther along. Thanks for the responses guys

[milto0n]

It's all about timing. Did a timing job a while back. You have to make sure everything is lined up. Check and then check again... then once more. Listen to your motor. If it sounds like that, go back and try again you did something wrong.

[shift_down]

Chain is supposed to look like this:
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g438/ramyswar/Correccam_zps02eb8979.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/ramyswar/media/Correccam_zps02eb8979.jpg.html)

Also, to set dizzy timing:
1. Make sure your Cylinder 1 is at TDC of COMPRESSION STROKE not exhaust stroke
2. Pull dizzy out
3. Align marks on dizzy, then turn it one tooth
4. Stick dizzy in (it will automatically rotate when you push it in)
5. Check to see if marks are aligned by looking at it through the head. If they are not aligned, then pull the dizzy out and try again.
6. Done
*Always refer to the FSM when working on cars. You will need the individual bolt torque spec to put everything back together correctly

P.S.
If your ka-t runs fine, don't swap an SR in. No sense in swapping a weak 2.0 motor for a a beefy 2.4 motor, unless you just want to be "cool," and make less power. Just a suggestion.

[Chaluska]

P.S.
If your ka-t runs fine, don't swap an SR in. No sense in swapping a weak 2.0 motor for a a beefy 2.4 motor, unless you just want to be "cool," and make less power. Just a suggestion.

No replacement for displacement ;)

I'm actually going to a KA-T from my VH swap.

the VH swap was powerful, but for the price of doing that swap, the KA-t is much cheaper. (spent 6,000 dropping in the VH)

[bigdnno98]

Chain is supposed to look like this:
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g438/ramyswar/Correccam_zps02eb8979.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/ramyswar/media/Correccam_zps02eb8979.jpg.html)

Also, to set dizzy timing:
1. Make sure your Cylinder 1 is at TDC of COMPRESSION STROKE not exhaust stroke
2. Pull dizzy out
3. Align marks on dizzy, then turn it one tooth
4. Stick dizzy in (it will automatically rotate when you push it in)
5. Check to see if marks are aligned by looking at it through the head. If they are not aligned, then pull the dizzy out and try again.
6. Done
*Always refer to the FSM when working on cars. You will need the individual bolt torque spec to put everything back together correctly

P.S.
If your ka-t runs fine, don't swap an SR in. No sense in swapping a weak 2.0 motor for a a beefy 2.4 motor, unless you just want to be "cool," and make less power. Just a suggestion.

You Sir know what the hell you're talking about. Solid advice to the OP. Thanks. Also couldn't agree more on the KA-T advice. If I ever pick up another S14 I will build the motor and see how much HP I can get out of a turbo setup on that KA.