Rotella triple protection 15w 40

[S13alldayyo]

What is your thought on the oil "rotella" 15-40 on a sr20det engine wether it be stock or high 300s to the wheel, just trying to find out if I should stick with Castrol 10 30 with some lucas or just go rotella 15 40


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[jr_ss]

5w-40 would be better, the T6 offering from Rotella.

[PoorMans180SX]

5w-40 would be better, the T6 offering from Rotella.

THIS. /Thread. There are about 290348293847239048 threads on oil on the internet, do your own research, and for heaven's sake, don't be cheap when it comes to your engine's lifeblood.

[Mikester]

LOL didn't realize these guys were posting- almost said to solicit jr_ss' input since he lives in Failorida :)

My from the hip thought is that there are fuck-tons of oil-related topics (damn it- someone already said that too haha).

HOWEVER, I'm at work and kinda bored :)

10W30 is perfect for Florida and pretty much any other climate between 60* north and south latitude. If the motor hasn't been recently rebuilt, stick to any reputable synthetic, change every 4mos or 3000-5000mi (whichever comes first) and enjoy. If it HAS been recently rebuilt, use regular non-detergent SAE 10W30 for the first 1,500-2000mi (with an oil change at 500-ish) then switch to synthetic.

Anyway... No need to overthink it- For your SR, nearly any synthetic 10W30 is a perfect and economical choice for it to run strong & last; the brand is irrelevant so long as you use the recommended oil type & weight. 15W40 probably wouldn't hurt it, but probably isn't the best thing for it.

I have a 400+hp fully built SR; I use 10W30 and will never switch unless someone from SAE (Society for Automotive Engineers) gives me a goddamned good reason to do so. The key is doing regular and preventative maintenance... and using sound maintenance practices.

Although I have my own 2-3 choices of oil brands, my car is not a daily driver so I tend to splurge if you know what I mean...

BTW, jr_ss' car is AMAZING & worthy of 5W liquid gold if it would make his motor happier... But his car is not a DD & his engine is so far from stock... so his choice of oil is based on very different parameters ;)

For general, daily driver purposes- If it ain't broke, don't fix it- Stick to Castrol...

[S13alldayyo]

I have read almost every single thread, rotella to me seems as a good choice over regular oil, diesel oils claim to have more additives for protection an additives that clean the motor better, Wich to me sounds better then regular gasoline oil (due to catalytic converter) but who runs one on a sr anyways.


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[S13alldayyo]

I also change my oil every 3k miles since I installed the swap with k&n filter but these people always talking about spinning a bearing isn't so fun on a swap I spent 4kplus


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[Mikester]

Same people spinning bearings are the same ones using fluids that weren't meant for their cars, treating them like shit & adding boost completely ignorant of the damage they are doing.... then bitching when motors go boom. However, there are also plenty of bearing threads to base your assumptions on here too...

If you want to use Rotella, go ahead and don't look back. If you read all the threads, then why start a new one? If you want to use diesel oil, go ahead and let us know how it went. If you understand anything, it's that more expensive oil does not mean better for your car. Usually with a higher price comes specific purposes. At most of our levels, there is nothing that some crazy expensive, exotic oil can do that regular Castrol can not... other than make us feel better every time we turn the key. I'm not saying to cheap out- just saying to be real and that more expensive does not gurantee that it would be any better.

BTW- I don't understand your last post. Could you clarify? Grammar is important when trying to relay a thought ;)

[S13alldayyo]

Clarified- I change my oil religiously every 3k miles (Castrol 10 30 and a k&n oil filter) I'm just always hearing about people spinning a bearing (especially on mobile 1 oils) or very thin oil such as Mobil 1.


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[S13alldayyo]

Thus giving me a reason to change from 10 30 to 15 40 diesel oil with better additives


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[Mikester]

^^All I can say is "It's your motor."

[S13alldayyo]

You never had anything to say in the first place


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[ultimateirving]

T6 rotella has my vote. Been using it for 2 years but I also run e85 and it's supposed to have properties better engineered for th corrosive fuel.

[S13alldayyo]

E85 is great for oil, it won't contaminate oil I can't wait till I go E
I'm still trying to figure out Wich rotella to run. Isn't 5 40 to thin on cold startups? Since that is was t6 is


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[ultimateirving]

E85 is great for oil, it won't contaminate oil I can't wait till I go E
I'm still trying to figure out Wich rotella to run. Isn't 5 40 to thin on cold startups? Since that is was t6 is


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You want thin oil for cold startups. That's the point of dual viscosity. Flows like. 5w protects like a 40w

[S13alldayyo]

I see I'll give that a thought


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[karnzklutch]

I would go with the Rotella T6 (5w40). Worked in my old sr20, and even works well in my new ej20 subaru forester. Oh its also cheaper than mobil 1 and such! Oh and in both of those cars I used this oil in winter.

[S13alldayyo]

2 votes for the synthetic blend


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[!Zar!]

lol at people scared to run diesel oil.

I've been running diesel oil in my s13 for ages.

ZERO problems. I stand by it 100%

Only reason I would suggest not running diesel oil is if your car still has a catalytic converter.

All of the detergents will rape your CAT.

[KendallH]

0W-30 Amsoil for my SR after the break in. Do your research on how oil actually works and stop using frozen molasses thick oil...

[S13alldayyo]

My friend has a honda doing 400 to the wheels on a completely untouched motor only arp head studs and he uses thick ass oil and it's still alive after 2 years


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[S13alldayyo]

24 psi and all he does is run his car


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[Z28ricer]

0W-30 Amsoil for my SR after the break in. Do your research on how oil actually works and stop using frozen molasses thick oil...


Do some research on what manufacturers who've done far more research than you'll ever pull off, suggest for oil in the climate where your car spends its time.


Rotella 15-40, especially in hot climate, winter months if down south and you want to bother 5-30, not really necessary, if your car has no cat and you really want some real protection get ZDDP additive.

[ultimateirving]

My friend has a honda doing 400 to the wheels on a completely untouched motor only arp head studs and he uses thick ass oil and it's still alive after 2 years


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Then wtf u asking us for. Go do what Honda boi does.

[S13alldayyo]

Then wtf u asking us for. Go do what Honda boi does.

Smh.


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[S13alldayyo]

Do some research on what manufacturers who've done far more research than you'll ever pull off, suggest for oil in the climate where your car spends its time.


Rotella 15-40, especially in hot climate, winter months if down south and you want to bother 5-30, not really necessary, if your car has no cat and you really want some real protection get ZDDP additive.

Thank you, I will be switching from Castrol to 15-40 rotella I have made my mind thanks guys.


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[mechanicalmoron]

Remember that heavy oil can also cause lubrication failures.

Thick oil doesn't drain back to the pan as fast, so it can contribute to starvation. It also is more prone to form cavities or bubbles that can't escape in time, and get sucked in the pickup - and air does not lubricate, foam does not lubricate, and air has very low viscosity and is very compressable compared to oil, which can allow the oil film to collapse.

Additionally, higher weights are more a high-clearance thing, like if you had a totally balls to the wall motor, meant to be sloppy to handle high hp. (like, a thousand, not a probably internally stock 3-400 motor, like your example.)

Low weight oils can shear, which could presumably cause a bearing to seize and spin, but high weight oils, though they increase oil pressure, obviously can't flow as well (especially in a motor designed for lower weights).

I've read at least one account, with no evidence or anything like that, from someone who claimed he'd cranked a racecar on a cold morning with strait weight 50 in it, and spun a bearing. I've been worried about this myself, because I run 20w50 WITH oil thickener in my KA, because of excessive wear and VERY excessive smoke (even with thick oil). Frankly I think it's amazing that my bearings are still where they belong, especially considering I have a tendency to drive the piss out of it despite the oil. High RPMs are a bit scary. But never any problem on startup beyond some valve clatter, even in the bitter cold. So that said, I don't know that it's true about spinning them with heavy oil, unless they where already damaged.

As someone with an unfortionate amount of experience in thickeners ("conditioner", "stop-leak", "no-smoke", etc) throw that lucas out. It's no more "cushioning" than any other oil, it's just higher viscosity - however, it doesn't have the same additives as your oil, so you'd effectively be diluting that expensive shell, or whatever. If you want thicker oil, use the next weight up. (you're already talking about an extra weight, so.... I'd call it a day, if it's a healthy motor) If you want oil so viscous that they don't sell it (like me.... trust me, you don't) or if you want to, for some reason, thicken the oil you're already using, use a smaller amount of a thicker product. Lucas isn't that thick, you can buy "ring-seal" or whatever that's MUCH thicker, and MAY actually have some additives, and that costs half the price (for a smaller bottle, but one with the capacity to thicken your oil to a greater degree). That way, you dilute your additives less.

But, I have no idea what most people actually race on, or run on for high horsepower.... I know rotella has a good reputation on bitog, and I know that being diesel, car, or motorcycle oil does not necessarily determine what oil preforms best, I seem to recall reading a real-world test where diesel shell won, for harleys, I think.....

Oil is an exhausting, massive subject. bitog can tell you more than you would ever want to know, some of which is more or less questionable, some of which is indubitable.

Amsoil and shell are commonly accepted as some of the best. mobil 1 is supposed to be great, if you don't have long change intervals (it turns excessively acidic). Personally, I'm a creature of habit, and valvoline is my habit - and generally considered a fine oil. Just don't buy dollar store oil, and you'll be fine.

[MrMigs]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like what you want is an oil that's not too thick on cold starts and also doesn't thin out too much on hard running.

Supposedly, you can check this using an oil pressure gauge. The right oil for you will not have excessively high oil pressure at start and also will maintain a good oil pressure during hard running.

Makes sense to me, but I haven't actually tested this out on my own, so I'm hoping someone can confirm.

[Mikester]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like what you want is an oil that's not too thick on cold starts and also doesn't thin out too much on hard running.



In other words... for the average daily driver/weekend warrior- The oil that Nissan engineers determined would be the best all-around choice for the SR when they designed it.

OP, I've got lots to say. Just not to people who start 'help me decide' threads; then simply lay in wait for someone to tell them what they want to hear.

[S13alldayyo]

I've searched numerous threads and just wanted some final ideas from you guys but I guess that's too much to ask. Anyways I've already chosen what I'm going to use in my next oil change and I'm sure it will be a great choice.


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[MrMigs]

In other words... for the average daily driver/weekend warrior- The oil that Nissan engineers determined would be the best all-around choice for the SR when they designed it.

OP, I've got lots to say. Just not to people who start 'help me decide' threads; then simply lay in wait for someone to tell them what they want to hear.

Long story short, I agree with you, but it sounds like op wants some Extra piece of mind.

What would you do to have that extra piece of mind that the oil you're running is working properly with your car? How would you know that your oil pump is functioning well also? I'm curious what your opinion is on that, aside from having the extra diagnostic reading from an oil pressure gauge, which is why I recommended it for op.

I've searched numerous threads and just wanted some final ideas from you guys but I guess that's too much to ask. Anyways I've already chosen what I'm going to use in my next oil change and I'm sure it will be a great choice.


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Ok, but how will you know that it's doing what you want? What will you base that on?
On a sidenote, those people spinning bearings could also have suffered from worn out oil pumps or oil starvation in hard sweeping corners. Tomei/Greddy/etc oil pan helps prevent this. I don't want to tell you what you should do, but this is just from my experience.

[Mikester]

Long story short, I agree with you, but it sounds like op wants some Extra piece of mind.

What would you do to have that extra piece of mind that the oil you're running is working properly with your car? How would you know that your oil pump is functioning well also? I'm curious what your opinion is on that, aside from having the extra diagnostic reading from an oil pressure gauge, which is why I recommended it for op.


If OP wants extra peace of mind, then great. In the grand scheme of things OUR OWN peace of mind is all that really matters in the end ;)

My personal opinion on having peace of mind is running an oil pressure gauge along with a thermostat-equipped oil cooler system & upgraded oil pan. If my pressure is where it should be and the car is running smooth and not smoking, leaking etc... I'm pretty happy & confident that everything is functioning as intended and the oil I chose is playing nicely with the setup. Since I don't drift, I don't really care what the oil temp is so long as I've got proper quantity and pressure- If that makes sense. NTM I always inspect my oil when I change it for anything out of the ordinary.

However, the key word up there is 'opinion'...

[codyace]

Rotella T6

Close the thread. Cheap as hell, you can get it ANYWHERE, and it plain out works.

It's one of the few cases in the world where a 'cheaper' product performs better than the expensive crap. Sure other brands may do the trick, and be ok, but I've used them all, and T6 seems old up to oil analysis tests in all engines best.


FWIW: I used to run Mobil 1 15w50 in the car (track car) and the T6 was night and day better in regard to oil pressure after a long (30min) session, as the T6 was 5 psi higher everywhere at the end of a session.

[MrMigs]

If OP wants extra peace of mind, then great. In the grand scheme of things OUR OWN peace of mind is all that really matters in the end ;)

My personal opinion on having peace of mind is running an oil pressure gauge along with a thermostat-equipped oil cooler system & upgraded oil pan. If my pressure is where it should be and the car is running smooth and not smoking, leaking etc... I'm pretty happy & confident that everything is functioning as intended and the oil I chose is playing nicely with the setup. Since I don't drift, I don't really care what the oil temp is so long as I've got proper quantity and pressure- If that makes sense. NTM I always inspect my oil when I change it for anything out of the ordinary.

However, the key word up there is 'opinion'...

I'm glad you brought up the part in bold. Key word may be opinion, but that's some valuable info for the op right there, that he may not have known about before. Good shit.

[S13alldayyo]

Thanks Cody that is the decision I have made, can close up the thread if need be


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[codyace]

I'm glad you brought up the part in bold. Key word may be opinion, but that's some valuable info for the op right there, that he may not have known about before. Good shit.

In that same regard thought, just because it holds temp properly at idle, doesn't mean it can withtand the rigors of 'real abuse'.


There is no doubt i can be overkill with things, but for the cost, it doesn't make sense to skimp. People wanna save 20 bucks on a fuel pump but think it's ok to spend 20 dollars an o/c on funny oils...

[Mikester]

In that same regard thought, just because it holds temp properly at idle, doesn't mean it can withtand the rigors of 'real abuse'.


There is no doubt i can be overkill with things, but for the cost, it doesn't make sense to skimp. People wanna save 20 bucks on a fuel pump but think it's ok to spend 20 dollars an o/c on funny oils...

Absolutely agree Cody. Personal choices aside, there is definitely added confidence in knowing that the 'important' things... like fluids & lubricants are quality items that are proven to handle abuse. Although more expensive does not always mean 'better', there is definitely a line between saving a few bucks and reaping what one has sewn. This can be even more true (IMO) when it comes to the fluids that do NOT get changed regularly- but that is a different topic I suppose :)

[MrMigs]

just fill your engine with lard already

[PrimeDirective]

I found some Eneos 0W-50 at Napa over the summer and love it. Its probably overkill but such a wide viscosity range is awesome.

[Kingtal0n]

one of us needs to get a chemical engineering job working for one of these oil companies and report back

[S13alldayyo]

All you hear about rotella is great stuff, all you hear about mobile 1 is spun bearings so I no trust it


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[S13alldayyo]

Next oil change should be next month sometime, I'll report the difference if any once I change.


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[S13alldayyo]

So Ima be changing it next week anyways I got the t6 and k&n filter (50$$$$) but I used my employee discount anyways does te rotella oil smell like sharpies? That's what my t6 smells like it doesn't smell like regular motor oil lol


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[kojiki88]

All you hear about rotella is great stuff, all you hear about mobile 1 is spun bearings so I no trust it

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I've been running Mobil 1 for about 6 years now on my SR without any problems. From stock horsepower to 305 rwhp and that's been on a DD basis. Now it just sits in the garage and is taken out every other weekend at most. It just happens that those people that spun a bearing were running Mobil 1 and want to blame the oil and not their stupidity. My:2c:

[karnzklutch]

I've been running Mobil 1 for about 6 years now on my SR without any problems. From stock horsepower to 305 rwhp and that's been on a DD basis. Now it just sits in the garage and is taken out every other weekend at most. It just happens that those people that spun a bearing were running Mobil 1 and want to blame the oil and not their stupidity. My:2c:

I do agree that you can't just blame the oil for spun bearings. Mobil 1 is used by ALOT of people with various cars/engines and due to that you will see alot more people saying they used mobil 1 when their motor got screwed. I used to use mobil 1 all the time honestly in all my cars, but the t6 is cheaper and personally I like it more. I just read on bobistheoilguy lots and it does seem mobil 1 5w30 is extremely thin, but again I had no issues with it.

S13alldayyo I got curious and just checked. It does smell like sharpies. Never noticed that.

[S13alldayyo]

Thanks a lot man (weird) lol


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[pacotaco345]

I didn't spin a rod bearing on mobile one but I did trash about 3 of them running it. Prev. owner of the motor ran 10w40 mobile 1 in the car, I regasketed everything and decked the head then re-assembled. Put 10w30 mobile 1 in the car and less than a week later it was making a faint knocking noise. I thought it was timing chain rattle until I blew a rocker arm and had to pull the pan to find a shim but found some copper instead. Luckily I put the car down just in time to save myself from actually spinning the bearing. Needless to say next week when I start my (rebuilt) sr for the first time mobile 1 won't be the oil going into it.

[S13alldayyo]

That was weird^ anyways I poured in the rotella t6 today and it poured straight through the funnel extremely quick, way quicker then my regular Castrol 10w 30 I would actually have to wait with the Castrol then pour then wait ten pour, with the t6 it went all in like water, I hope it really isn't that low in weight


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[PoorMans180SX]

I didn't spin a rod bearing on mobile one but I did trash about 3 of them running it. Prev. owner of the motor ran 10w40 mobile 1 in the car, I regasketed everything and decked the head then re-assembled. Put 10w30 mobile 1 in the car and less than a week later it was making a faint knocking noise. I thought it was timing chain rattle until I blew a rocker arm and had to pull the pan to find a shim but found some copper instead. Luckily I put the car down just in time to save myself from actually spinning the bearing. Needless to say next week when I start my (rebuilt) sr for the first time mobile 1 won't be the oil going into it.


That is the most ridiculous situation to blame the oil for bearing issues. Tons and tons of variables and things that could have happened.

[TheRealSy90]

I got the t6 and k&n filter (50$$$$)


All this worry about the oil and you buy a K&N filter? Purolator PureOne is the best filter. No debate.

Also, I've been running Mobil1 15w50 in my sr daily driven and daily beaten on for 5 years. It's the only thing I put in any sr20 I work on. However I may consider the T6 now ONLY because CodyAce uses it lol.


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[S13alldayyo]

Lol, we'll. I poured it in and it went in like water cranked it up and it sounded good nothing bad so far going to take it for a drive tonight


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[codyace]

Good stuff man!

[Rb26kouki]

Whatever you do don't run Royal Purple LoL

This is what happens


http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s501/rb26kouki/Mobile%20Uploads/469EE6A4-6CD8-4EFB-8335-A6B042FEDBC4.jpg (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/rb26kouki/media/Mobile%20Uploads/469EE6A4-6CD8-4EFB-8335-A6B042FEDBC4.jpg.html)

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah, that's not from your oil...

[mechanicalmoron]

Yeah, that's not from your oil...

A spun bearing isn't? What else IS it?

Not trying to be a smart ass, honest question.

Royal purple is supposed to be total trash. In terms of how well it works, and how long it lasts, etc. And the weights are low as hell. Maybe it's good if you just want less oil drag, to make ONE good pass, and you have money for engines?

What I want to know about spun bearings and oil weight, is what point of thickness you go too far, and begin making it more likely.

[PoorMans180SX]

Spun bearings are usually a result of a total loss of oil pressure, which is not due to which oil you run. There are plenty of race teams that run Royal Purple exclusively, including the old Sierra-Sierra Cosworth Evo.

I'm not saying it's the best stuff in the world, but it certainly doesn't cause spun bearings.

[codyace]

Spun bearings are usually a result of a total loss of oil pressure, which is not due to which oil you run. There are plenty of race teams that run Royal Purple exclusively, including the old Sierra-Sierra Cosworth Evo.

I'm not saying it's the best stuff in the world, but it certainly doesn't cause spun bearings.

Wolfshead 5w-50(LOL) wouldn't even cause that.

Aside from zero oil pressure, bearings like that come from improper cleareances and shoddy machine work too.

[PoorMans180SX]

Yes indeed, I was assuming it was a stock rotating assembly, but out of round big-ends and improper bearing clearance will do that too.

[mechanicalmoron]

Wolfshead 5w-50(LOL) wouldn't even cause that.

Aside from zero oil pressure, bearings like that come from improper cleareances and shoddy machine work too.

Are you saying you'd expect very thick oils to spin bearings?

I'm asking because I run 20w50, and then still use some thickener, because of horrible rings/valves (120 compression accross the board. Stable accross about a six thosand mile test interval, of this thick oil use), in a stock KA that's never had it's guts touched.

It's made it 18k miles, but I always wonder what's going on in there, especially during hard driving - high rpm, dumping the clutch, etc. (Current plan is to drive that motor until it won't go another inch - 300k would be pretty sweet, thats another 82k)

I'd much rather have a 5 or 0w50, but have never seen one for sale in person, only heard tell online....

[PoorMans180SX]

Thick oils are fine as long as you have the clearances right. 50 weight works fine in Nissan engines, it provides a nice hydrodynamic wedge unless you are running on the very tightest edge of factory tolerances, which I wouldn't ever recommend if you're making power.

The "thickness" most people think of (pouring speed) comes from the winter weight, the first number. This will effect start-up wear and how fast the oil gets around the engine when cold. You can run 5w-50, 10w50, 15w-50, 20w-50, and straight 50w, and they will all have a "similar" viscosity at operating temperature (please don't murder me over this statement, it's general, I know). BUT their exact properties, protection, and longevity will depend on their base oil, additive package, and their amount of viscosity index improvers.

There's a LOT that goes into making a good oil.

[ultimateforce]

I run diesel oil in my turbo diesel Mercedes. JEALOUS?

[traviss14]

I have used rotella since my Honda days used it in my sr ka vq and my 302 its great in hot climates also the additives do there job do yourself a favor switch to t6 and stick with it then 4-5 oil changes it will be just as clean as a new car but your first and second will be black as night since its actually cleaning the gunk out

[NoPistons!]

Nobody mentioned zinc content.




Also no synthetic was good enough for the vg30 in the pathfinder daily. Lifter noise, it just sounded like shit under hood. Not knocking just noisy. Within 5 miles of using 10w30 rotella the noise went away and we've owned the thing for 2 years with 200k on the clock. It sat in a field for 2 years before that and the last owners didn't care for it too well nor did they know what they were doing when it came to simple repairs.


My vg30 in my 240 is turbocharged, baffled sump, soon to be oil cooled and i couldn't see myself running anything other than what the turbo diesel crowd trusts their engines to for long trips, pulling freight for miles and miles, etc.... When your oil gets shared between an exhaust driven turbine that gets REALLY HOT and your motor which has controlled explosions going off inside of it you want the oil designed to perform longer and harder.

I'm not telling much scientific analysis here. Just straight opinion and logic. More or less there's a method to my madness. I've ran all kinds of oil. I think the smell and all that zinc is what drove me to rotella. :D

[TheRealSy90]

From what I could find after lots if research is Mobil1 15w50 has the highest zinc content PPI of all the store bought oils around +1600. Only thing with a higher content being the Lucas race oil that I can't remember the name of.

I remember asking the guys at M7 Japan what their zinc content was after they started promoting their stuff really hard as a "race ready oil". They basically told me to fuck off. Well guess I won't buy your stuff then ;)

[PoorMans180SX]

Everyone goes on and on about zinc content, but Moly is arguably more important.

Zinc is important, and diesel oils usually have more because they can by law (in "street" oils), zinc will kill a catalytic converter in a gas engine. Anything over 2000 ppm and it can actually start to become corrosive to more ferrous parts like cams.

Moly is an arguably better high-pressure friction reducer, with somewhat similar properties to zinc.

Anyway, can we be done with the "I run _______ oil" comments? Let's let this thread die, and end it with the summary that T6 is a good oil, but there is much more that goes into a good oil than most people think, so never judge an oil by it's internet reputation.