Runs great cold, but Boggs and acts crazy when warmed up?

[Rico21r]

Okay so I've been trying to figure out the issue here.

For some reason if it is cold out I can go in and start up the car with little issue, it only has to crank once before it lights off and it runs fine.

But say I turn it off and try again some time after, well it has to crank at least 5 times, then it runs extremely rough.
It Boggs really bad and it gets no acceleration at all, and it is a strain just for it to get up to 55mph. But eventually for some reason I could be driving and it will just correct itself randomly and drive fine, what is causing this?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Kaifd3s]

Check your crank sensor.

[Rico21r]

Well, spent 100 bucks on a new sensor.. Still acts crazy. any other ideas?

[Sileighty_85]

ECU Coolant Temp Sensor its the two wire sensor next to the Single wire gauge sensor.

Check ECU for codes to confirm

[Han]

second that ^ check with a multimeter to confirm. should be around 2k ohms when cold and down to about .3-.5k ohms when warmed up. i just read up on the cts a couple hours ago. save yourself from wasting any more $

[Rico21r]

Okay I'll check it out.hmm

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[240boi115]

Is it an auto or manual?

[Rico21r]

Manual

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[future]

If a CTS doesn't work I'd check the fuel pump. They can over heat once warmed up and give problems

[Rico21r]

Well if this is what you guys are referring to then I'm about to go pick one up in a minute! hopefully it works!
Duralast/Coolant Temperature Sensor (SU405) | 1990 Nissan/Datsun 240SX 4 Cylinders H 2.4L FI | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/1990-Nissan-Datsun-240SX/_/N-iglgpZ9gslt?itemIdentifier=125898_0_18589_)

[kruked]

I say to swap w/ another ECU from a car that hasn't been ragged to death. I had a similar problem. I diagnosed EVERYTHING, ECU was the culprit.

I wouldn't necessarily buy one. See if you can't borrow a buddies.

[Rico21r]

Well the CTS was a little bit corroded, I'm sure it was probably 23 years old.
But it didnt fix a thing. It still gets crazy shaking and bogging and occasionally runs really rich.
also some times the idle will be at like 1800, some times it will be at 7-800.
also Some times my brake and check engine light will be on, some times it wont.
also some times, for some reason, I get smoke that comes in through where my radio goes...

I JUST DON'T KNOW ANYMORE.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Well have you done the usual stuff? Check plugs/gap, base timing, CAS timing, cleaned MAF, adjusted TPS?

[Sileighty_85]

Check alternator voltage output and disconnect the O2 and see if that helps idle

[Rico21r]

Alright, so I went to visit my sister today, about a 30 minute drive, and the car was driving like complete crap, usually it would correct itself but this time it didn't.
So on the way back, still driving like shit, it started to lose power while going like 60, I look down and it's just about to over heat so I pull to the shoulder of the highway.
Now I'm on the high way right now and this stupid thing won't start.
It will crank and crank, just won't light off.
Do you guys think it was probably the fuel pump?
I got it to start for a minute and there was some pinging in the engine so I shut it off and now it won't come back. o.o.
Any ideas? There's no leaks or anything.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Sileighty_85]

Well the stock temp gauge is garbage so there might be a chance that it has overheated and warped the head causing the head gasket to pop. Check your oil and see if it looks like chocolate milk and check coolant level.

[kruked]

Why didn't you do as post #9 suggested when he suggested it on the 24th?

[mechanicalmoron]

You may have a lower injector o-ring that heats up, and allows it to flood around it.

Running rich and REALLY rough? Like, not just rough, but has a miss? Pull the plug wires until you find the miss, get a set of injector o-rings and some vaseline to lube the new one to put it in, or it will tear, and fix it. (the ecu may already have an injector or misfire code, did you check? it can tell you the cylinder)

Or, an injector stuck, open or closed, or one that sticks both.

And yeah, it can be really hard to start with a bad injector, and can be really damaging to run on it. Don't be a fucktard, it obviously shouldn't be driven so it hopefully just fixes itself, ruining itself is a lot more likely.

[Rico21r]

The engine light went out until the last incident where it died on the road,
But how would I pull the plug wires to troubleshoot it when it won't even fire up anymore?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[future]

At this point it sounds like you blew the head

[Rico21r]

So if that's the case, I'll have to completely change out my head? I'm going to have to open it up to be sure, right?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[fliprayzin240sx]

Start atleast a compression test but better with a leak down test.

[kruked]

Hey dumb fuck, what's the point in us trying to help you if you won't trouble shoot shit that we've already suggested to you. There's no fucking point in this thread if you won't help us by letting us help you. You keep blowing off the simple shit that we've recommended to you and as soon as a head gasket is mentioned, you start biting off your toe nails because you can't get your fingers out of your ass to check a fuel pump. Its very unlikely that you blew a head gasket, very unlikely that you have a leaky fuel injector, possible, yes, but unlikely. But hey, if you want to create more of a headache for yourself, by all means, go ahead. Be sure to get back on here and let me know how that fresh head is while your current problem is still there.

[Rico21r]

I was actually going to replace the fuel pump today, did you not see the post I put when I said I was broken down? It wasn't me who the out the other suggestions

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Rico21r]

I just ran the ecu and its showing 11 I think. I don't know though because it's such a long pause between the 1 flashes

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[fliprayzin240sx]

1 long blink and 1 short flash, then starts over again?

11 says its Camshaft Position Sensor...I'm not even sure if that means a bad CAS since thats the only thing in my head that reads your cams.

[Rico21r]

No, 1 long flash over and over again

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[fliprayzin240sx]

Tried clearing it to see if it comes back? I've never heard of a single digit ECU code for nissan.

[Rico21r]

No I haven't, I'll do that now

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[fliprayzin240sx]

Just realized something...I never asked what engine, I've been assuming SR20 this whole time.

[Rico21r]

Ka24e

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Rico21r]

Alright, I just checked the fuel pump, its running strong so thats not the issue.
It's still just turning over.
It's probably a spark issue I'm thinking?

[mechanicalmoron]

Hey dumb fuck, what's the point in us trying to help you if you won't trouble shoot shit that we've already suggested to you. There's no fucking point in this thread if you won't help us by letting us help you. You keep blowing off the simple shit that we've recommended to you and as soon as a head gasket is mentioned, you start biting off your toe nails because you can't get your fingers out of your ass to check a fuel pump. Its very unlikely that you blew a head gasket, very unlikely that you have a leaky fuel injector, possible, yes, but unlikely. But hey, if you want to create more of a headache for yourself, by all means, go ahead. Be sure to get back on here and let me know how that fresh head is while your current problem is still there.

Well they do go bad, and they can stick open. That makes sense with his rich setting.

They're just on que to go at this age, and they do. The o-ring problem is usually actually a consequence of someone changing a bad injector out, but not lubing the new o-ring, so it tears. but they can also just get old and leak, maybe a bad one got in from the factory that failed faster, etc.

But yeah, it's not the head gasket....

You can check the codes without it turning on, like I told you to.... the only tool you need is a few screwdrivers and maybe a little socket or something to get the ecu out. (then if you want to make it easier in the future, drill a hole in the top face of your ecu, and mount the screw there, so you can use it without removing the whole damn ecu)

You should listen to see if your fuel pump primes, and especially if you can't hear it, get a pressure gauge, a little cheap-o inline diagnostic one. Splice it in by the fuel filter, turn the key to on, and see, you should have 44 psi. Once it's running, it should drop to 34 or something, as the pressure regulator is vaccum operated.

*edit* if you think it's a spark issue, have someone turn it over while you pull a plug boot - it should arc if you hold it near the head, like a quarter inch away, every time that cylinder should be firing. If it's not, inspect the cap/rotor, and make sure the coil is sparking.

If you do have spark, have someone else turn it over, while you listen to the injectors, to make sure they're firing - you can also put a finger on them and feel the click, or put a screwdriver on them and listen to the handle.

[Rico21r]

Yeah, I checked the codes already, It just flashed with a #1...
Like one flash and four seconds later one flash, and so on and so forth. I don't get it because it's not saying 11 and thats the lowest the codes go..

Also, I can hear the fuel pump running strong, and popped off the line after the fuel filter and primed it and it just dumps gas so I dont think its a problem with that.

Also when I crank, I smell gas so If the pump is bad than I'd be suprised.


To address your edit;
Yeah I was just about to try to do that with a buddy but he went to do something so Once I do it i'll get back to you with the results!

[future]

Just cause it gets gas doesn't mean much. You need to check the pressure. And i can't believe you have not checked for Spark. Are we serious?

[Rico21r]

okay, did the engine block spark test and the plugs wouldnt get spark, so now I have to go deeper.
It's probably the ignition coil then, right?

[Rico21r]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3qytGh6Aqw&feature=youtube_gdata_player here's a video

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[kruked]

Take a video of you checking the ECU for codes.

[Rico21r]

I did, it pulled a 55

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[kruked]

Take a video and post it here. First you state that you were getting a code of one digit and that one digit being the number "1". It's a possibility that it was code "11", which would make sense since you don't have spark.

Take the video and post it, please.

[Rico21r]

I literally just took it, it was 55

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[starplatnumm]

can u look at the battery post and clean off the oxidation? not sure if it was mentioned before but looking at the video it sounded like it wasn't grounded right.

[Rico21r]

Yeah I'll try that in a minute

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[starplatnumm]

check the ignition coil. loose wires. there are all types of ignition setups. but having loose connections or loose wires may cause to heat up wires. when ever theres a problem having to do with weather changes usually a module or a resistor needs replacing. been a long time with the KA24e's.

[Han]

lol that's the last thing you'd want to see if your car isnt starting. sounds like you accidentally cleared all your codes. unless there was already no cel when your car died. test the terminals going to the coil and if that's good test your coil. if both are good i'd guess it's a loose connection somewhere. fiddle around with them and clean all the grounds. probably wont fix it but doesnt hurt to try. battery sounds dead also but im guessing thats from you cranking it over a lot

[starplatnumm]

yes because if he drove for like 30 mins to his sister's house it would have charged by then. but accourding to the video the battery gave up meaning that the battery terminals weren't fully contact due to the oxidation.

[Han]

i never said it was not from oxidation. figured he would have noticed if it was oxidized by now but maybe not. i was just thinking he might have been trying to start it multiple times and drained the battery that's all. dont know where you got that impression from

[starplatnumm]

true, was reading the previous posts. misread the time stamp..

[Rico21r]

Yeah it put a strain on the battery, I'm going to get a buddy to charge mine up then I'm going to run a compression test tomorrow and see what I get.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[future]

What the flying fuck does a compression check have to do with a engine with no spark? Am I missing something

[Rico21r]

No, just doing it because I need to.

[Rico21r]

1 -72psi
2 -25psi
3 can't screw on hose tight enough on this one.
4 -25psi

Oh boy, something is bad.
Compression test results

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[kruked]

If the battery is close to being dead, then you're going to have low compression, very low compression. And just out of curiosity, did you pull all of the spark plugs when you attempted the compression test?


To the other members following this thread, is it me, or does it seem like no one is getting through this brick wall?

[Rico21r]

Nope battery is fully charged and yes they were all pulled.

And yeah man that brick wall, ooh

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Han]

lol who's to say the hose wasnt on right for the other cylinders? try a wet compression test maybe? just to be sure its not the rings which i really doubt. or maybe your a/f was fucked up and started burning up valves. or the most likely cause, you warped the head after over heating. have fun with that

[mechanicalmoron]

Nope battery is fully charged and yes they were all pulled.

And yeah man that brick wall, ooh

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Also, hold the pedal down/throttle wide, while testing compression.

Are you SURE it's a good battery? Looks like you started good, and went downhill on the test, as it got more worn. Could the whole thing be a bad spark, from a dying alternator that can't get enough juice back into the battery?

But, if you can't get better compression numbers out of it somehow, start looking for a motor - if those are the real numbers, it's beyond toast.

You may have been using the wrong adaptor for the hose, and it may have been feeling like it screwed in, but it was only really crossing the threads and then jamming tight and feeling in, cause it should have screwed into all of them with no real problem - plug threads are not tricky (for obvious reasons).

[future]

To the other members following this thread, is it me, or does it seem like no one is getting through this brick wall?


He lost me at doing a compression check when his first problem was no spark lol

[dallasb53]

Why didn't you do as post #9 suggested when he suggested it on the 24th?

because its easier to just ask questions, get answers and never act on it.

thats my guess, anyways.

[dallasb53]

pull your spark plugs one at a time, fill the cylinder with water(make sure its at bdc) then put your compression tester on it and fire it up. should fix your problem asap