anyone with 250whp redtop pls share setup

[spools420a]

My goal long term goal is 280whp but first I want to get around 250whp,right now I have a stock redtop with greddy front mount/walbro 255 lph fuel pump/stock t25/3 in exhaust/MBC/ and is pretty close to stock and want to keep my goals realistic so anyone with redtop running 250-280whp could you please share your setup with me.

Im thinking something like,..
s15 t28 or gt2871 turbo
440cc injectors
wideband
z32 maf

and some sort of piggy back or maybe a power fc

does that look like a good start?Anyone willing to share there setup?thanks all.:bow:

[Dolph_KYAS13]

My old setup was S15 turbo 550cc injectors, SAFC and all the supporting junk such as fuel pump, intercooler and full 3in exhaust.

it was good for around 250 and the car was lots of fun.

[rc1honda]

Power FC is not a piggyback it's a stand alone EMS.

And you might wanna throw some cams in there too. Maybe some 256's.

[spools420a]

My old setup was S15 turbo 550cc injectors, SAFC and all the supporting junk such as fuel pump, intercooler and full 3in exhaust.

it was good for around 250 and the car was lots of fun.
perfect!i was considering safc but im wary since i cant adjust the timing with it,plus hearing it advances timing when richening the values but since its not going to be pushing much hp maybe this is the best route for my HP goals.power fc or any full standalone seems like overkill for 250whp anyways and quite expensive.

how much boost would the t28 need for 250?
also is the stock MAF ok to use at this power level?

[carlos-s14sr20]

i recommend the hks adjustable wastgate.

[Prok0]

If its a street car with occasional track use I always suggest S14/15 T28s, they are rad.

Super quick spool, great all around power, and can make 300-320whp with the right mods and higher boost, and can crank out 275-290whp real easy.

Do 550s or 750s, Z32 MAF, RS Enthalpy rom tune, T28 and all the little supporting mods which it sounds like you already have, and you have a super fun street car. Maybe throw a lightened flywheel at it to make it a bit peppier.

Thats pretty much what I ran in my S14 and it was a ton of fun and pretty quick (trapped 117mph in the 1/4)

[spools420a]

If its a street car with occasional track use I always suggest S14/15 T28s, they are rad.

Super quick spool, great all around power, and can make 300-320whp with the right mods and higher boost, and can crank out 275-290whp real easy.

Do 550s or 750s, Z32 MAF, RS Enthalpy rom tune, T28 and all the little supporting mods which it sounds like you already have, and you have a super fun street car. Maybe throw a lightened flywheel at it to make it a bit peppier.

Thats pretty much what I ran in my S14 and it was a ton of fun and pretty quick (trapped 117mph in the 1/4)

if i did the enthalpy rom tune would I not need a pggy back or any sort of standalone correct?and I just send in my excisting ecu and tell them my mods and they send it back and thats it?

[Tom N]

Walbro fuel pump, S15 turbo and injectors, 3in exhaust, boost controller, FMIC with stock ecu made 270 hp.
Add Z32 maf and a rom tune by Enthaply and 300hp.

Really shouldn't need a recipe for a messily 250hp.

[kojiki88]

My current setup is:

S15 T28 Turbo
740cc Injectors
Z32 maf
Greddy Intercooler
Full exhaust
Toda Cams
Apexi HG
External Wastegate at 17psi
Tuned through Nismotronic
305WHP 296TQ

[steve shadows]

You should be able to get to 250 whp even on a dyno dynamics dyno with an S15 turbo a Z maf and a power fc with a a decent FMIC and a good tune. The timing map is the key to everything. You could have a mail order tune and a GT30R and have less HP than a GT28R with stock head and other hardware and astill have less hp because the timing map is not a good one. Even a lot of dyno shops don't know how to craft them right. That's why I offer the remote tuning services for the maps for people still. Thanks

[steve shadows]

In fact now that I am thinking about it we did a few cars like this both in person a while ago and also with remote tuning just sending a PFC user a remotely created timing map. Here is a good example http://shadowerks.com/videos.html

Check out the second video down. That was an S14 motor but I've actually gotten people up to 300 whp with the same hardware. Which was basically stock side mount intercooler, power FC, boost cranked up to 16 psi and an S15 turbo with a great timing map and some 264 step 1 hks cams.

Second video down Gold S14 with S15 turbo - Stock SR motor + cams and exhaust (http://shadowerks.com/videos.html)

You should be 280-290 whp on a dyno dynamics with that (or around 315 whp on a dyno jet).

I can help you further if you grab an ems and need some tuning support.

Thanks :trogdor:

[Fries]

If I were you I'd use Steve Shadows' products. I've only ever heard great things and I've known SRs with t28 upgrades to blow on a simple SAFC.

Reliability is important when a motorset costs 2grand.

[nismobenzo]

get a 1uz..

[Prok0]

if i did the enthalpy rom tune would I not need a pggy back or any sort of standalone correct?and I just send in my excisting ecu and tell them my mods and they send it back and thats it?

Yea you can simply run one of his tunes, just make sure your TPS and timing are set properly, no boost leaks, and no sensor issues and it should run great. Its what I ran on my personal car.

You could have an AFC on the car for very fine adjustments but its not really necessary.

[gabes240]

My current setup
sr20redtop
Mishimoto front mount
full 3in exhaust
s14 t28
Enthaply tune
stock sr maf
stock injectors

made 249whp/260wtq with 18 psi on an 85 degree day. blast to drive, mut my maf and injectors are close to maxed out!!

[ultimateirving]

My current setup
sr20redtop
Mishimoto front mount
full 3in exhaust
s14 t28
Enthaply tune
stock sr maf
stock injectors

made 249whp/260wtq with 18 psi on an 85 degree day. blast to drive, mut my maf and injectors are close to maxed out!!

You are pushing that t28 too far, blowing hot air.

Also to the OP you dont need cams for this power level, probably would hurt response to be honest.
Get s15turbo if you never plan to shoot for more than 300 or so.. 2871r if your goals are under 400

[mikerbike]

A dude I know made 265hp with a stock MAF and stock turbo Redtop. PFC and some worn out 256 cams. HKS iirc.

https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/998282_10153184395915581_2009351095_n.jpg

Oh dang. Thought that was a link to his FB post.

[NHTKID]

On my car I have:
full 3in exhaust
blitz FMIC
Isis Tubular Manifold
s15 444/480's injectors (whatever you want to call them)
t28
and an enthalpy tune I drive it around at 15-16psi

Havent dyno'd yet but it feels strong. deff over 250.

As said above. With enthalpy's tune (any rom tune) you have to make sure YOUR shit is right otherwise youll have all sorts of problems. In most cases its rarely the tune and almost always the condition of motor and or user related issues with the car. I learned that the hard way. I had all sorts of issues and martin at enthalpy answered every single email with great insight and quick response. We got all the issues squared away and the car runs fantastic, very reliable too.

[Mikester]

KISS concept:

- 850cc injectors (cheaper than 550's, will run about 60% duty cycle)
- Z32 MAFS
- Walbro pump
- tuned standalone or OEM ECU
- good flowy (doesn't have to be loud) exhaust
- FMIC

You don't need a T28 or larger turbine for 250... Nor do you need cams for 280, 300, 350 etc.

I made 280 with a T25 with the setup above @1.15bar (about 17psi,Tuned by Yoshi at Odotec Okinawa). Don't get me wrong, the curve was a little on the funky side as the T25 was outside of its efficiency range... but made it nonetheless & surprised a lot of people on the streets.

[ultimateirving]

KISS concept:

- 850cc injectors (cheaper than 550's, will run about 60% duty cycle)
- Z32 MAFS
- Walbro pump
- tuned standalone or OEM ECU
- good flowy (doesn't have to be loud) exhaust
- FMIC

You don't need a T28 or larger turbine for 250... Nor do you need cams for 280, 300, 350 etc.

I made 280 with a T25 with the setup above @1.15bar (about 17psi,Tuned by Yoshi at Odotec Okinawa). Don't get me wrong, the curve was a little on the funky side as the T25 was outside of its efficiency range... but made it nonetheless & surprised a lot of people on the streets.

Thank you! This was my exact setup plus Freddy manifold. I made 298 on 15 psi with a t28. And e85 instead of 91

[cbeuglas]

Isis 3871 turbo
Rom tune
Z maf
Sti yellow top injectors
15 psi boost
275 wheel hp
Stock head gasket
Stock cams

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Silverbullet]

A dude I know made 265hp with a stock MAF and stock turbo Redtop. PFC and some worn out 256 cams. HKS iirc.



260whp is prob the max you can get out of 370cc injectors and stock MAF. But then again, each dyno will read differently.

Cams are def not needed for that power. If anything, they are hurting your performance overall.

[Tom N]

Dyno numbers with out track times are borderline worthless.
It's the little number at the end of the track that tells the true story. Not a inflated number on a dyno.

[mikerbike]

260whp is prob the max you can get out of 370cc injectors and stock MAF. But then again, each dyno will read differently.

Cams are def not needed for that power. If anything, they are hurting your performance overall.

I was trying to politely disagree with all this talk about T28/S32/550cc blah blah blah.

OP is talking about 250hp with a redtop. Stock turbo/injectors/MAF/cams can do it.

[Tom N]

I would agree most the stock parts will get you there including stock cams.
What aftermarket cam are you going to use on a tiny T25 that's going to actually help it make more power???

[Mikester]

I would agree most the stock parts will get you there including stock cams.
What aftermarket cam are you going to use on a tiny T25 that's going to actually help it make more power???

LOL couldn't agree more man! I would think that all adding (even drop-in) cams will do is shrink the power band for 'slightly' better midrange response... and negligible power gains due to slightly higher lift. In other words, a waste of money.

IMHO, adding cams (unless purpose build) is really of no benefit until shooting for closer to the 400 mark. When I finally ditched the T25 in Okinawa, I still ran the stock bottom & valvetrain... Made 360-370 'VERY fun' ponies with nothing more than a new turbo & new tune ;)

Going back to 260 on stock injectors etc... It can be done with the injectors running at 100% & added boost; but even then will be knocking its ass off trying to meet the demand. This is exactly why I ditched the 370's & went to the 850's...

BTW Tom, should have numbers to post Monday (FINALLY!)

[Tom N]

I forget that stock injectors for most SR20's is 370's.
I'm used to having 480's as stock injectors.
Squeezing 260whp out of 370's on regular pump gas with zero extra octane added is pushing them to the limit. I'm all for pushing stuff to its limit though.
Mix Torco accelerator in with your fuel to suppress the knock on the stock set up. Or my favorite just use alcohol injection.

[spools420a]

260whp is prob the max you can get out of 370cc injectors and stock MAF. But then again, each dyno will read differently.

Cams are def not needed for that power. If anything, they are hurting your performance overall.
well i definitly dont want to max out the injectors,I did this on a turbo 420a and the wideband didnt pick it up since it was only cylinder 2s injector, went out after a year or so of abuse on a highway pull,such a dumb reason to blow a motor in my opinion im looking for safe and around 250-280hp shouldnt be hard,what do you guys thinkthe duty cycle will be with 550's at lets say 280whp?if there around 80% ill just do those.

[Mikester]

^^There was a thread about this not too long ago... There's a formula you can use to 'guesstimate' power output per given injector flow rate & duty cycle.

550's completely maxxed out will 'generally' yield about 380-390(ish) hp... Some have touched 400 w/them...

So YES, 550's will be below 80% pushing 280. However, it's proportional to other factors; so by all means do the math. In general, 550's will support much more than you plan to throw at them.

[conrad_s13.5]

Dude,.. I know a bunch of people just listed off setups that will TOTALLY reach your desired goal


....but I also made 265, on a completely stock SR.
-Turbo back exhaust
-Greddy FMIC
-Boost controller turned up to 14lbs
-Apexi Neo

Ran solid for 2.5 years,....and then I blew the turbo....lol

[zerodameaon]

Thank you! This was my exact setup plus Freddy manifold. I made 298 on 15 psi with a t28. And e85 instead of 91

How big of a hit on mileage did you take after going to E85?

[Tom N]

How big of a hit on mileage did you take after going to E85?

Typical loss is 30%.

[NiSilS14]

I helped a friend build an SR that was ~350whp @ 15psi.

E85
S15 turbo
ID1000s
Z32 MAF
Power FC
3" exhaust
HKS 264s

The biggest difference is picking the right management system and the right tuner, find one that tunes for all driving conditions. As simple as that sounds, there are tuners that don't.

[Corbic]

How big of a hit on mileage did you take after going to E85?

I initially got around 9mpg, we backed if off and retuned a dozen times. I had some issues with off-throttle power cut. Best I ever did was around 16mpg but I was running to lean on the 750cc. Ended up running to lean, switched to 93, upped the boost to 23#, now I'm around 19mpg.


Z32 MAF
750cc
FMIC
3" Exhaust
60-Trim Turbo
DOC Top-mount

[nujabe]

I made 330 whp with 300 torque on a dyno dynamics dyno.

2860rs
555cc
Greddy front mount
Power fc
3 inch exhaust.
Tomei 256 cams

[codyace]

anyone that trusts the factory 'stuff' at 240+ whp is a brave person IMO. Not only are the injectors gasping for help, but the MAF, and fuel pump are right behind them.

I don't trust this old junk as much as I used to years ago. I've said time and time again more SR20's are blown up in the 250ish whp level than anywhere else, namely because of the condition and true ability of the parts. Anyone with the ability to log values on a 'stock' sr knows that 13-14 psi is simply putting the car in borrowed time if it's ran hard.

[inopsey]

If I were you I'd use Steve Shadows' products. I've only ever heard great things and I've known SRs with t28 upgrades to blow on a simple SAFC.

Reliability is important when a motorset costs 2grand.

i did that once, never again. paid 100$ for a de-tuned stock pfc map which was 14 afr in boost and would of destroyed my engine really fast if i did not have a wideband. the injector corrections sent were also wrong. at the dyno had to add 10 degrees timing to some spots from his 'dyno tuned' timing map he sent to find power. im also not the only one who has had problems with him.

steve shadows is nothing more than a con who shows up on this site when he needs money

[e5s4y]

i had a redtop
s15 spec-r turbo
lightweight flywheel and aluminum driveshaft
AVCR set to .8 bar
front mount
stock exhaust manifold
aftermarket exhaust from the elbow back
SARD afpr
walbro 255
stock maf and injectors (maxed out)

i made 245/236 whp/tq on a hot ass humid florida day

[Mikester]

i did that once, never again. paid 100$ for a de-tuned stock pfc map which was 14 afr in boost and would of destroyed my engine really fast if i did not have a wideband. the injector corrections sent were also wrong. at the dyno had to add 10 degrees timing to some spots from his 'dyno tuned' timing map he sent to find power. im also not the only one who has had problems with him.

steve shadows is nothing more than a con who shows up on this site when he needs money

I have zero experience with Steve's products; but he seems to really want to help everyone out as a chunk of his customer base is on this forum.

Not really sure why a $100 mail-order tune even sounded like a good idea to someone with a PFC & access to a dyno; but each to their own. I mean no disrespect nor judgement when I say that it sounds to me like you got exactly what you paid for, then were pissed when you reaped what you sewed. Adding 10* of timing to certain areas to find power tells me that it was rich, not lean (in those areas)... which to me, says that the tune erred to the safe side a bit. It's dangerous as hell adding timing when the fuel metrics can only be speculated based on what someone says vs. hands-on tuning. As far as being lean anywhere else- Again, there is only 'so much' a tuner can do without access to the car. The key point about that 'dyno tuned' map you bought is that it was not formulated based on your car's setup and location... If you expect perfection from something like that, then I would respectfully challenge your logic- As well as your pretty harsh judgement of someone who knows a hell of a lot more about tuning than most of us ever will.

I have not a dog in the fight... So please take this post with a grain. Just asking you to maybe rethink your thought process... I do not know the particulars of your case- Nor do I care... But I do know that calling someone out in the manner you chose did no favors to your cause and/or credibility... nor that of the 'others' who have allegedly had problems with Mr. Shadows.

In summary- The problem with 'canned' tunes is that they don't take each individual setup's nuances into consideration. Great for the folks who don't want to invest in a standalone engine management system; but not so great for folks like us who demand the best & safest possible power curves. Once you start tuning with a standalone, there is no way around the need for a dyno; or a VERY thorough street tune... Period.

i had a redtop
s15 spec-r turbo
lightweight flywheel and aluminum driveshaft
AVCR set to .8 bar
front mount
stock exhaust manifold
aftermarket exhaust from the elbow back
SARD afpr
walbro 255
stock maf and injectors (maxed out)

i made 245/236 whp/tq on a hot ass humid florida day

Hopefully you added bigger injectors since then... That's great power for the setup described; but pushing the AFR envelope.

I'm a huge fan of simple & fun... and on stock cams, I would wager it was a BLAST on the street! I definitely miss having an upgraded turbine with basic supporting mods & a solid tune... Once you start going beyond, the bang for the buck factor diminishes quickly in favor of a neverending list of 'shit' needed to support the higher levels of 'performance... many of which completyely detract from streetability.

Hats off to ya!

[inopsey]

I have zero experience with Steve's products; but he seems to really want to help everyone out as a chunk of his customer base is on this forum.

Not really sure why a $100 mail-order tune even sounded like a good idea to someone with a PFC & access to a dyno; but each to their own. I mean no disrespect nor judgement when I say that it sounds to me like you got exactly what you paid for, then were pissed when you reaped what you sewed. Adding 10* of timing to certain areas to find power tells me that it was rich, not lean (in those areas)... which to me, says that the tune erred to the safe side a bit. It's dangerous as hell adding timing when the fuel metrics can only be speculated based on what someone says vs. hands-on tuning. As far as being lean anywhere else- Again, there is only 'so much' a tuner can do without access to the car. The key point about that 'dyno tuned' map you bought is that it was not formulated based on your car's setup and location... If you expect perfection from something like that, then I would respectfully challenge your logic- As well as your pretty harsh judgement of someone who knows a hell of a lot more about tuning than most of us ever will.

I have not a dog in the fight... So please take this post with a grain. Just asking you to maybe rethink your thought process... I do not know the particulars of your case- Nor do I care... But I do know that calling someone out in the manner you chose did no favors to your cause and/or credibility... nor that of the 'others' who have allegedly had problems with Mr. Shadows.

In summary- The problem with 'canned' tunes is that they don't take each individual setup's nuances into consideration. Great for the folks who don't want to invest in a standalone engine management system; but not so great for folks like us who demand the best & safest possible power curves. Once you start tuning with a standalone, there is no way around the need for a dyno; or a VERY thorough street tune... Period.



have you noticed how he helps on this forum? sends a pm or a response in thread, asking you to send him money for him to 'help' you by sending you a 'base map'. if i know how to help, and want to, i dont charge for my input, nor do 99% of the members here.

i decided to get a mail order tune because no one at the time had anything bad to say about him. i thought he was going to help through out the process as advertised. i also needed to get my car back to town from where i work on it (2 hour drive) the dyno i ended up using was a 6 hour drive away since there is no tuners in my area. steve also advertised when you purchased the 'base map' he would help you get the tune right. (part of the mail order tune package) after several emails back and forth to get the CORRECT injector dead times for the tomei 740 injectors (very common info can be found on tomei usa site) i quickly stopped receiving any response at all. if i got what i paid for i should of not needed to look up the injector dead times and then tell steve that they were wrong with his base map package. if i got what i paid for he would of worked out the bugs with my specific setup in regards to the base map,(as paid for) not ignoring someone who paid for a service. i never expected perfection but i expected the car to run with what i paid for, or at least bought a better map than the pfc base. theres a reason why he asks for the payment to be made as a gift threw paypal. isnt it funny how after dyno tuned with the 3071 my map looked MUCH closer to the pfc base map that the steve shadows base map that i piad 100$ for? how does jwt etal sell canned tunes that make power and only run off desired afr if theres a problem with your setup(vac leak etc) 95% of the time? i know a lot more about tuning now and understand how these canned tunes work on many many setups with only a change of injectors info. if you want to make a safe tune you take timing out of the heavy load area not the vacuum portion of the map as steve did. this has nothing to do with my specific setup (mild bolt ons) or location since jwt et al do not have this difficulty.

being that he has a customer base on this forum i feel it necessary to say my piece. until i get my money back for him he will reap what he sows ie: an angry customer

[e1_griego]

I got a lot of knock indicated with my Steve Shadows tune -- went back to PFC base map tune, then got a hookup on some dyno time so had it tuned at a local shop. That was just on stock maf/turbo/inj, and like 4 or 5 years ago.

Def. wasn't impressed with my remote tune, but it's usually not worth posting anything negative here because it devolves into a shit show.

Suffice it to say, I too would avoid the remote tune and just either go the JWT/Enthalpy route, or find a local tuner.

Also, SAFC is not management anyway. Please see: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/196800-otterman-lok-s-safc-ii-install-guide.html

[Tom N]

I'm a huge fan of simple & fun... and on stock cams, I would wager it was a BLAST on the street! I definitely miss having an upgraded turbine with basic supporting mods & a solid tune... Once you start going beyond, the bang for the buck factor diminishes quickly in favor of a neverending list of 'shit' needed to support the higher levels of 'performance... many of which completyely detract from streetability.




truer words were never spoken.

[e1_griego]

I will +2 that.

It's why I keep my cars simple. For 350-400whp and under, and SR doesn't need a lot of stuff, and it's easy to fall off the 'value' cliff above that power level.

[Mikester]

have you noticed how he helps on this forum? sends a pm or a response in thread, asking you to send him money for him to 'help' you by sending you a 'base map'. if i know how to help, and want to, i dont charge for my input, nor do 99% of the members here.

i decided to get a mail order tune because no one at the time had anything bad to say about him. i thought he was going to help through out the process as advertised. i also needed to get my car back to town from where i work on it (2 hour drive) the dyno i ended up using was a 6 hour drive away since there is no tuners in my area. steve also advertised when you purchased the 'base map' he would help you get the tune right. (part of the mail order tune package) after several emails back and forth to get the CORRECT injector dead times for the tomei 740 injectors (very common info can be found on tomei usa site) i quickly stopped receiving any response at all. if i got what i paid for i should of not needed to look up the injector dead times and then tell steve that they were wrong with his base map package. if i got what i paid for he would of worked out the bugs with my specific setup in regards to the base map,(as paid for) not ignoring someone who paid for a service. i never expected perfection but i expected the car to run with what i paid for, or at least bought a better map than the pfc base. theres a reason why he asks for the payment to be made as a gift threw paypal. isnt it funny how after dyno tuned with the 3071 my map looked MUCH closer to the pfc base map that the steve shadows base map that i piad 100$ for? how does jwt etal sell canned tunes that make power and only run off desired afr if theres a problem with your setup(vac leak etc) 95% of the time? i know a lot more about tuning now and understand how these canned tunes work on many many setups with only a change of injectors info. if you want to make a safe tune you take timing out of the heavy load area not the vacuum portion of the map as steve did. this has nothing to do with my specific setup (mild bolt ons) or location since jwt et al do not have this difficulty.

being that he has a customer base on this forum i feel it necessary to say my piece. until i get my money back for him he will reap what he sows ie: an angry customer

Actually, nearly every time I see Steve Shadows replying to a post in the tech forum, I read it... So far, not once have I seen him asking for money. However, I will definitely keep this in mind from now on b/c there is a high probablity that maybe I just haven't noticed :)

I dunno man- You took the time to buy quality injectors, quality ECU, turbine and many other nice, proven bits... Then slapped it with a tune that costs less than a JWT/Enthalpy tune. IMHO, you got exactly what you paid for. If I were him, I would have probably sent your emails to spam after a while too ($100 only covers 'so much' of a person's time)... thinking you were expecting perfection out of a tune that was likely intended to do nothing more than get you to the dyno.

All good dude~

[ultimateirving]

How big of a hit on mileage did you take after going to E85?

Consistent 21-22mpg on 91 with same setup

16-17mpg on e85.

I always track my mileage so it never really fluctuates much off of those numbers.

[inopsey]

Actually, nearly every time I see Steve Shadows replying to a post in the tech forum, I read it... So far, not once have I seen him asking for money. However, I will definitely keep this in mind from now on b/c there is a high probablity that maybe I just haven't noticed :)

I dunno man- You took the time to buy quality injectors, quality ECU, turbine and many other nice, proven bits... Then slapped it with a tune that costs less than a JWT/Enthalpy tune. IMHO, you got exactly what you paid for. If I were him, I would have probably sent your emails to spam after a while too ($100 only covers 'so much' of a person's time)... thinking you were expecting perfection out of a tune that was likely intended to do nothing more than get you to the dyno.

All good dude~

heres a recent one for you

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/540594-s13-sr20det-high-rpm-ignition-break-up.html#post5475322

[So Make Like]

Power FC is not a piggyback it's a stand alone EMS.

He didn't say a Power FC was a piggyback.

& it isn't my build, but a friend's:

24Xhp/30Xtq on a Dynapak.
-Freddy intake manifold
-Tomei 555cc injectors
-Tomei poncams
-Tuned Power FC...MAP version; I forget which jetro it was lol
-Apexi GT Spec exhaust
-Blitz FMIC
-Blitz BOV
-Stock T25
-Agency power MBC
-~14psi

It was a daily and was fine. This tune and setup put his turbo under a lot of stress. Blew the turbo eventually, swapped it and carried on.

I personally like this setup. It had response, my favorite.

[nujabe]

I'm going to say Steve is kind pretty much a rip off i paid 80 bucks for a base map because I wasn't able to get a tune for a few months when I made it to the dyno they said it was really off and .. Running some what lean I had a very simple set up.. I agree with the person who says he comes in when he needs money. I still have that shit tune in my email.

[Kingtal0n]

If I wanted 250 horsepower I would just install an S15 motorset and leave it completely untouched. The price has come down alot- they are around $3000 complete now.

You could sell the redtop swap for at least $1800. That means your difference is around $1200, which is less than it costs for a power FC, injectors, Turbocharger, lines, tuning, etc... All those "extra parts" that require "installation" which could be done right or wrong...

In other words, keeping it simple, I would rather swap in a lower mileage engine, with a six speed transmission, capable of 30+ mpg, that does not require any modifications...

...rather than to modify a much older, higher mileage engine, which will cost more money and requires more effort.

[Kingtal0n]

Flowchart for 250~ rwhp:

Option A, Modify the redtop:
$1000+ 1. power FC
$500+ 2. Injectors
$200+ 3. Fabricate plumbing
$400+ 4. turbocharger
$250+ 5. Tuning
Total: $2300-$3300 in modifications
Pros: No need to remove the engine
cons: Lots of places to make mistakes. Old engine, higher mileage.

Option B, Swap in an S15 sr20det proper
1. $3000+
2. Sell your redtop swap for $1500+

Total: $1500~
Pros: Newer engine. Lower mileage. 6-speed. Better fuel economy. No tuning required. No modifications required. use the side mount intercooler to avoid plumbing. Use the stock exhaust because its dead silent and capable of 280RWHP anyways.

Cons: need to do an engine swap and some wiring.

[e1_griego]

Buying used makes all those parts a lot cheaper.

[Srsil]

S13 sr 86.5 9 to 1 all arp acl bearing 14 psi stock maf and ecu 14 psi 254/262 on intec racing dyno

[Kingtal0n]

Buying used makes all those parts a lot cheaper.

because used aftermarket parts are usually fine. especially expensive, tight tolerance turbochargers with unknown pasts. and expensive, irreparable computer boards.
And dont get me started on used injectors and "tuners". Literally all parts you do not want to [email protected]#*& with. The only thing we left out is engine bearings and cylinder wall finish.

[e1_griego]

Well since you know everything...

I have purchased new and used turbos, and never had one fail. Four or five used PowerFCs and a used datalogit, two sets of use 740s (both sets in cars I currently own) and I've never had an issue. If you ask the right questions and buy from people who have a clue then I don't see the big deal.

[Johannes]

My goal long term goal is 280whp but first I want to get around 250whp,right now I have a stock redtop with greddy front mount/walbro 255 lph fuel pump/stock t25/3 in exhaust/MBC/ and is pretty close to stock and want to keep my goals realistic so anyone with redtop running 250-280whp could you please share your setup with me.

Im thinking something like,..
s15 t28 or gt2871 turbo
440cc injectors
wideband
z32 maf

and some sort of piggy back or maybe a power fc

does that look like a good start?Anyone willing to share there setup?thanks all.:bow:

My buddy's S13 SR with stock turbo, stock injectors(370cc), z32 maf, fmic, greddy ebc made 262whp dyno tuned by Martin. Made around 240ish rom tuned.

[So Make Like]

My buddy's S13 SR with stock turbo, stock injectors(370cc), z32 maf, fmic, greddy ebc made 262whp dyno tuned by Martin. Made around 240ish rom tuned.

Further proof that all that's needed for 250hp is:
Good flowing exhaust
FMIC
Boost controller
z32 MAFS
& to lessen stress on the motor; injectors and a fuel pump

In other words, keeping it simple, I would rather swap in a lower mileage engine, with a six speed transmission, capable of 30+ mpg, that does not require any modifications...

You speak of the s15 transmission highly. When and IF he decides to go big power later, it'll end up the way everyone's "surprising" stories of the fate of the transmission goes. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 6-speed trans doesn't have balls if you wish to go big down the road. Unless he has a bigger toy on the side, I'm almost positive he'll want to push whatever he has further up the dyno chart in due time.

I do wish crate motors weren't so expensive to get to hawaii. I would have loved to dabble more into it myself over hearing everyone's tragic/success stories over forum. :(

[zurud]

S15 tranny is as useless as s13 tranny

[Mikester]

^^On a 250whp setup, an S13 tranny will take an immense beating and scream for more... add 75-100 more ponies and it goes from pimp to ho real quick ;)

[So Make Like]

Lol Mike, it sounds like you've blown up an s13 tranny somewhere down the road in your/a build.

[GUZZLE7]

s14 sr stock internals
s15 t28r turbo
555 injectors
PBM mid mount intercooler
walbro 255 fuel pump
tuned with power fc and z32 maf

301 hp and 295 tq with 91 octane running at 16 psi

....Then it blew up... so id recommend spending the money to rebuild it first. used SR's are ticking time bombs.

[Mikester]

Lol Mike, it sounds like you've blown up an s13 tranny somewhere down the road in your/a build.

LOL yea... In front of a couple thousand spectators... SR/KA trannies REALLY don't like 6000rpm launches from a fully built motor on VHT ;)

Interesting day at the track that cost me nearly $3K worth of Z32 tranny swap lol!

s14 sr stock internals
s15 t28r turbo
555 injectors
PBM mid mount intercooler
walbro 255 fuel pump
tuned with power fc and z32 maf

301 hp and 295 tq with 91 octane running at 16 psi

....Then it blew up... so id recommend spending the money to rebuild it first. used SR's are ticking time bombs.

That's a great hp/tq ratio, and an AWESOMELY SIMPLE, fun & reliable setup if it had been taken care of before you got the swap... and great advice...

Problem with SR's as you found out is that many of them are ridden hard and put away wet in Japan & abroad before they find themselves on US soil...

Like you, many haven't had the opportunity to pull an SR out of THIER OWN running car & ship it home. I feel lucky in that respect (as do many other military dudes/dudettes)... Even so, first thing that happened when it got unpacked was a full top to bottom rebuild. Costs a bit more (Captain Obvious to the rescue lol); but in the hands of a capable person will last far longer than the new owner's interest in the car :)

I beat the living shit out of my SR in Okinawa... It was definitely getting tired by the time I disassembled & shipped it. However, the good news was that even tho the valve seals were wearing out, the pistons still looked great and there was no abnormal scuffing in the combustion chambers or on the crank... Which consequently is why I SWEAR by OEM NISSAN bearings, gaskets & seals- they truly do stand the test of time.

[nate92]

S13 Sr:
S15 Turbo
DW 550cc injectors
Tomei Poncams
PBM HMIC
Adjustable wastegate actuator
Chipped OEM ECU
N62 maxima MAFS

Makes 293WHP/ 310FT-LBS @13psi on a dyno dynamics dyno, which i think is damn good!

Coupled with a nismo lightweight flywheel, DSS alum driveshaft, car has wicked response!I get 750km+ to a full tank of gas