overheating ka24de! need major help!

[georgeasorous]

ok so i have a 1991 s13, ka24de 5 speed. bone stock other than a air filter and cat back exhaust. the upper radiator hose sprung a leak about 3 weeks ago and the car got hot but didn't overheat.

so i figured since I'm changing the hoses mite as well change everything else so i got an aluminum radiator new thermostat, temp sensor, temp sender, water pump, e-fan, overflow tank and all the manifold and coolant return lines.

after i installed everything i bled the system and drove it around locally for a few days. then one day the temperature got very hot almost past the last line. i immediately pulled over and turned off the car. when i turned the car back on the temp was normal again. so i drove the car back home with no more over heating.

the next day i installed a auto meter short sweep water temp gauge with the inline sensor and replaced the coolant and bled the system. THE CAR IS STILL OVERHEATING. there is no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant so I'm assuming the head gasket is fine.

I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO!!! SOMEONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT AS TO WHAT ELSE COULD BE WRONG! THANK YOU!

[jaxshawn]

Keep bleeding the system and check the belt tension on your water pump. If that doesn't work get a new thermostat and repeat.

Edit make sure heat is on full blast while bleeding so the heater core gets coolant circulating through it as well

[georgeasorous]

Keep bleeding the system and check the belt tension on your water pump. If that doesn't work get a new thermostat and repeat.

Edit make sure heat is on full blast while bleeding so the heater core gets coolant circulating through it as well

i did that with the heater, and the thermostat is new. i guess i can just keep bleeding the system.

[dawagarage]

most likely the system isnt bled ENOUGH.

did you raise the front end as high and safe as possible?
did you let the car run with the cap off, as well as remove the little bleeder screw on the motor?

[jaxshawn]

Bleeding has always been a pita for me id bleed it drive 3 blocks run hot and bleed some more drive a few more blocks repeat

If you keep having problems get another new tstat I had a brand new one that wouldn't open in the car but bench test it would open just fine

[georgeasorous]

most likely the system isnt bled ENOUGH.

did you raise the front end as high and safe as possible?
did you let the car run with the cap off, as well as remove the little bleeder screw on the motor?

yes i did all of that. i used the spill free funnel had the front of the car raised and left the bleeder screw off. i think i am just gonna keep bleeding it.

[fast panda]

maybe your new e-fan burnt out already?

[georgeasorous]

maybe your new e-fan burnt out already?

it turns on fine and it moves a lot of air

[Gordo714]

what are you using to activate your E-Fans

make sure they are turning on at the right temp

If it aint broke dont fix it

[georgeasorous]

what are you using to activate your E-Fans

make sure they are turning on at the right temp

If it aint broke dont fix it

they are hooked up to the factory plug so it kicks on when i turn on the ac and when the temp hits around 200

[rebornS14]

what triggers the e-fan to turn on? you might just have a big pocket of air trapped in there and since the weathers been cold, if your e-fans are kicking on too early, it wont let the coolant temperature to get hot enough to open the thermostat, keeping that pocket of air trapped inside your system. you need to make sure the thermostat opens to properly bleed the system. happens a lot with the clutch fan cause the shits always on, and it makes it hard to work with on cold weather days.

[na12uto]

I have heard of people wiring up the fan wrong and the blades are spinning backwards. double check that and honestly bleeding it sounds like its the only main problem besides if anything of the fan

[georgeasorous]

i checked the fans they are pulling air in the right direction so i think i am just not bleeding it enough. thanx for all the help guys!