otakubakaa
10-29-2013, 02:46 PM
These will be a first come first serve basis. I will retrofit more later on but I need to sell these off to get the funds started for future batches. So yeah, that's how that'll work.. If there are enough interest to continue fueling these retrofits, I will keep on making it. Spread the news around while you're at it, these retrofits don't just stop at 240sx, it'll fit virtually any other vehicle that uses 7x6/H6054 lamps (eg. Toyotas, Jeeps, other Nissans, 18-wheelers-trolol).
I will be as descriptive as I possibly can about these retrofits to minimize the Q&As. If you should feel the need to ask some specific in which I haven't already covered below, please feel free to PM me. I check my emails on a daily basis. So without further ado, here goes.
What type of headlight are you using?
The retrofit uses Pilot H6054/7x6 conversion lamps. The lens are made out of crystal clear acrylic (possibly Lexan?) plastic.
Headlights are D.O.T/SAE approved.
Ugh, why plastic lens? Glass lens doesn't haze/yellow over time!
Glass lens distorts the projector cut-off. (This is a deal-breaker)
Aside from the fact that glass lens are very difficult to remove. The lens are prone to cracking/shattering during disassembly. (I can't go through multiple headlights before I get lucky with one)
Plastic lens do not distort/blur cut-off and are much more forgiving during disassembly while offering far better clarity as compared to glass lens.
If you're worried about yellowing/hazing, you can always apply a protective film over the headlight (eg: Lamin-X).
What type of projectors are you using?
Either Bi-Xenon Mini D2S Morimoto Generic Projectors or Bi-Xenon Mini D2S Texenon Projectors.
I seem to be having better results with Texenon projectors compared to the Morimotos, they seem to offer a bit more sharper cut-off and an intensified color-flicker. (The blueish line at the cut-off - totally an aesthetic thing though)
I may start using only Texenon projectors if I am able to get the same constant results as above.
Will I still have my high beam function?
Yes. Bi-Xenon projectors integrates low/high beam into a single unit. There is a solenoid, when activated, flips down the cut-off shield which lets excess light flood pass the cut-off. Since there are no secondary bulbs, high beams are instantaneous.
In order for the high beam to operate on your vehicle, you'll need to splice the high beam output wire (12v+ & ground-) from your factory H4 harness onto the projector solenoid's harness.
You can also go online and search for "H4 Bi-Xenon Conversion Harness" to get a conversion harness which is completely plug and play should you feel that splicing, crimping and/or soldering is not your cliche.
Alternatively, "Morimoto MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2" conversion harness works just as well with a little bit more labor (and cost!) involved.
This is the conversion harness for the high beam solenoid.
http://i.imgur.com/F0q6q5B.gif
Are bulbs and ballast included as part of the purchase?
At this time, no. I might offer it in the future at an additional cost.
Please DO NOT, under any circumstances, use poor quality D2S bulbs like the ones you would find on eBay for $10 bucks a set. Those bulbs are so poorly designed that it will hinder the quality of light output.
I highly recommend the use of good quality ballast that uses alternating current (AC). HID ballasts that utilizes direct current (DC) are not meant for automotive applications. DC current can and WILL cause premature failure to the bulbs and ballasts itself as well as reducing the life expectancy of the entire HID kit.
I'm intrigued about your dislike of poor quality bulbs, please explain...
Projectors have very small tolerances when it comes to bulb alignment and fitment. Combine that with poorly manufactured generic eBay-quality bulbs and the precision required, the defect will be magnified through the projector lens. The image below will show what happens when you use low quality HID bulbs.
Figure A
In this image, the alignment of the arc capsule on the base of the bulb is off by a mere 1-2mm. However, due to this defect, the cut-off is curved downwards. This is caused because the arc capsule is angled upwards on the base. The projector lens "flips" the light output making the cut-off curve downwards. The problem is the same if the cut-off is curved upwards, meaning the arc capsule is angled downwards on the bulb's base. Another obvious way of telling this is the hotspot/focal point of the light output (as circled in red on the image). A correctly aligned bulb should have the hotspot dead centered where the vertical dotted lines are with about 1/2 of the hotspot's lower portion showing.
Figure B
In this image, the alignment of the arc capsule on the base of the bulb is shifted to the right causing the hotspot to shift left beyond the step-up on the cut-off (vertical line). The vertical alignment of this bulb is much better as compared to Figure A since the cut-off is almost straight on the horizontal plain. However, because the hotspot isn't centered on the step-up, everything on the left (if installed on LH side of the vehicle) will be brighter causing the area of the road in the center to be poorly illuminated.
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/4522/2q8h.jpg
I cannot stress enough the importance of using high quality, properly manufactured HID D2S bulbs that are built to meet certain standards. I highly recommend using OEM bulbs such as Philips or Osram Xenarcs. If price is an issue, Morimoto XB35 series of D2S bulbs are a great and perfect alternative option. I've had great success with Morimoto bulbs, they're cheaper compared to OEMs, uses high quality Hallide Salts inside the arc capsule, alignment is spot on, and the light output is amazing.
Do you offer customization for the retrofits?
Custom color combination are available upon request. You may request a different type of shroud as well if you have a specific style you want. All retrofits will come in chrome w/ the BMW E46 shrouds by default. Prices will adjust accordingly depending on the amount of customization requested, inquire for more info.
How much do I need to modify to make these retrofits work?
The entire retrofit is done for you. You can simply install these headlights as you would for any sealed beam replacement headlights. The only modification (as mentioned above) required is the wiring for the high beam solenoid and post-alignment of the headlight itself inside the headlight assembly and you're good to go.
Additional Info
All retrofits goes through a thorough testing process before I put it up for sale. Every headlamp goes through a 5-6 hour "burn-in" cycle to release any potential off-gassing that may occur from the combination of sealant and adhesives used. Every lamp gets submerged into water face down (lens side) for 5 minutes to make sure it is completely sealed.
35w HID ballast and bulbs were used during the burn in cycle. Although 55w ballast/bulbs should work completely fine, I cannot guarantee 55w units will not agitate off-gasing due to the excess heat caused by it. This is a warning just in case of a worst case scenario if it should happen. I can, however, in good faith say chances of that happening is slim to none since a 5-6 hours burn-in time is more than enough and would have cured and released any gasses/fumes. Be forewarned, with any type of ballast (35w/55w), please make sure you use Morimoto or an OEM equivalent setup that utilizes AC current. Also keep in mind that there is a [slim] possibility of burning the reflector bowl when using 55w ballast due to the spike in temperature.
2.8lbs net-weight (pair)
Retrofit comes with 45 days limited warranty. Warranty starts on date of delivery.
Price: $350.00
+ $16.49 USPS Priority Mail (2-Day) Shipping w/ Insurance Included
http://i.imgur.com/P0QbbEZ.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/im1nc4O.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/YVXm543.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/MZnkybw.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/HYmPJYM.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/WfaTPpC.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/H22Hvtd.jpg?1
I will be as descriptive as I possibly can about these retrofits to minimize the Q&As. If you should feel the need to ask some specific in which I haven't already covered below, please feel free to PM me. I check my emails on a daily basis. So without further ado, here goes.
What type of headlight are you using?
The retrofit uses Pilot H6054/7x6 conversion lamps. The lens are made out of crystal clear acrylic (possibly Lexan?) plastic.
Headlights are D.O.T/SAE approved.
Ugh, why plastic lens? Glass lens doesn't haze/yellow over time!
Glass lens distorts the projector cut-off. (This is a deal-breaker)
Aside from the fact that glass lens are very difficult to remove. The lens are prone to cracking/shattering during disassembly. (I can't go through multiple headlights before I get lucky with one)
Plastic lens do not distort/blur cut-off and are much more forgiving during disassembly while offering far better clarity as compared to glass lens.
If you're worried about yellowing/hazing, you can always apply a protective film over the headlight (eg: Lamin-X).
What type of projectors are you using?
Either Bi-Xenon Mini D2S Morimoto Generic Projectors or Bi-Xenon Mini D2S Texenon Projectors.
I seem to be having better results with Texenon projectors compared to the Morimotos, they seem to offer a bit more sharper cut-off and an intensified color-flicker. (The blueish line at the cut-off - totally an aesthetic thing though)
I may start using only Texenon projectors if I am able to get the same constant results as above.
Will I still have my high beam function?
Yes. Bi-Xenon projectors integrates low/high beam into a single unit. There is a solenoid, when activated, flips down the cut-off shield which lets excess light flood pass the cut-off. Since there are no secondary bulbs, high beams are instantaneous.
In order for the high beam to operate on your vehicle, you'll need to splice the high beam output wire (12v+ & ground-) from your factory H4 harness onto the projector solenoid's harness.
You can also go online and search for "H4 Bi-Xenon Conversion Harness" to get a conversion harness which is completely plug and play should you feel that splicing, crimping and/or soldering is not your cliche.
Alternatively, "Morimoto MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2" conversion harness works just as well with a little bit more labor (and cost!) involved.
This is the conversion harness for the high beam solenoid.
http://i.imgur.com/F0q6q5B.gif
Are bulbs and ballast included as part of the purchase?
At this time, no. I might offer it in the future at an additional cost.
Please DO NOT, under any circumstances, use poor quality D2S bulbs like the ones you would find on eBay for $10 bucks a set. Those bulbs are so poorly designed that it will hinder the quality of light output.
I highly recommend the use of good quality ballast that uses alternating current (AC). HID ballasts that utilizes direct current (DC) are not meant for automotive applications. DC current can and WILL cause premature failure to the bulbs and ballasts itself as well as reducing the life expectancy of the entire HID kit.
I'm intrigued about your dislike of poor quality bulbs, please explain...
Projectors have very small tolerances when it comes to bulb alignment and fitment. Combine that with poorly manufactured generic eBay-quality bulbs and the precision required, the defect will be magnified through the projector lens. The image below will show what happens when you use low quality HID bulbs.
Figure A
In this image, the alignment of the arc capsule on the base of the bulb is off by a mere 1-2mm. However, due to this defect, the cut-off is curved downwards. This is caused because the arc capsule is angled upwards on the base. The projector lens "flips" the light output making the cut-off curve downwards. The problem is the same if the cut-off is curved upwards, meaning the arc capsule is angled downwards on the bulb's base. Another obvious way of telling this is the hotspot/focal point of the light output (as circled in red on the image). A correctly aligned bulb should have the hotspot dead centered where the vertical dotted lines are with about 1/2 of the hotspot's lower portion showing.
Figure B
In this image, the alignment of the arc capsule on the base of the bulb is shifted to the right causing the hotspot to shift left beyond the step-up on the cut-off (vertical line). The vertical alignment of this bulb is much better as compared to Figure A since the cut-off is almost straight on the horizontal plain. However, because the hotspot isn't centered on the step-up, everything on the left (if installed on LH side of the vehicle) will be brighter causing the area of the road in the center to be poorly illuminated.
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/4522/2q8h.jpg
I cannot stress enough the importance of using high quality, properly manufactured HID D2S bulbs that are built to meet certain standards. I highly recommend using OEM bulbs such as Philips or Osram Xenarcs. If price is an issue, Morimoto XB35 series of D2S bulbs are a great and perfect alternative option. I've had great success with Morimoto bulbs, they're cheaper compared to OEMs, uses high quality Hallide Salts inside the arc capsule, alignment is spot on, and the light output is amazing.
Do you offer customization for the retrofits?
Custom color combination are available upon request. You may request a different type of shroud as well if you have a specific style you want. All retrofits will come in chrome w/ the BMW E46 shrouds by default. Prices will adjust accordingly depending on the amount of customization requested, inquire for more info.
How much do I need to modify to make these retrofits work?
The entire retrofit is done for you. You can simply install these headlights as you would for any sealed beam replacement headlights. The only modification (as mentioned above) required is the wiring for the high beam solenoid and post-alignment of the headlight itself inside the headlight assembly and you're good to go.
Additional Info
All retrofits goes through a thorough testing process before I put it up for sale. Every headlamp goes through a 5-6 hour "burn-in" cycle to release any potential off-gassing that may occur from the combination of sealant and adhesives used. Every lamp gets submerged into water face down (lens side) for 5 minutes to make sure it is completely sealed.
35w HID ballast and bulbs were used during the burn in cycle. Although 55w ballast/bulbs should work completely fine, I cannot guarantee 55w units will not agitate off-gasing due to the excess heat caused by it. This is a warning just in case of a worst case scenario if it should happen. I can, however, in good faith say chances of that happening is slim to none since a 5-6 hours burn-in time is more than enough and would have cured and released any gasses/fumes. Be forewarned, with any type of ballast (35w/55w), please make sure you use Morimoto or an OEM equivalent setup that utilizes AC current. Also keep in mind that there is a [slim] possibility of burning the reflector bowl when using 55w ballast due to the spike in temperature.
2.8lbs net-weight (pair)
Retrofit comes with 45 days limited warranty. Warranty starts on date of delivery.
Price: $350.00
+ $16.49 USPS Priority Mail (2-Day) Shipping w/ Insurance Included
http://i.imgur.com/P0QbbEZ.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/im1nc4O.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/YVXm543.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/MZnkybw.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/HYmPJYM.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/WfaTPpC.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/H22Hvtd.jpg?1