s13 too much tire rub

[Thedriftbadger]

I dont know if theres something wrong with my car or my setup or what. But I cannot get the front tires to stop rubbing. I have the seam completely flattened, alignment is stock specs. Tire size is 215-40-17 on a 17x9.75 +25 wheel with approx 10mm spacers. Every time I turn it hits the seam and when I go full lock it hits the front of the wheel well. Im only tucking like 1/3 of the tire so im not even super low. Am I doing something wrong? Im considering raising it like 1/2 inch in the front.

[jaysgottaredtop]

jack it up.

take the wheel off.

find what you're rubbing against.

grab the biggest hammer you can find.

nope, that hammer is for girls, go find a bigger one.

beat the living F**K out of it.

you're welcome.

[Thedriftbadger]

jack it up.

take the wheel off.

find what you're rubbing against.

grab the biggest hammer you can find.

nope, that hammer is for girls, go find a bigger one.

beat the living F**K out of it.

you're welcome.
LOL! guess i need a bigger hammer. But seriously the seam that's right over the tire is smashed down as far as it can go. I went at it with a 3lb sledge and a grinder yesterday and it's still rubbing. I definitely can hammer the front of the wheel well more though. Maybe i should get stiffer springs for the front? Mine are only 7kg, i can get my hands on some 9k's for $80...

[blueshark123]

Whats caster at? Raise your car also.

[Thedriftbadger]

Whats caster at? Raise your car also.
Alignment is all stock, stock caster rods. I have one collar off the coils, i'm gonna put it back in this week, that should raise it like 1/4" and hopefully stop the rubbing.

[tacobellman_2007]

Might need overfenders o.o if the hammering isn't working anymore, as far as the seam goes.

I have a similar rubbing problem too, whenever I turn. That's just the way it's going to be with such wide wheels, unless - without raising the ride height - you get tubs, I'm sure. I do my best to not turn tight, and only do it when I have to. I run 18 x 9.5s all around with what I believe are either 245/35 or 235/35 tires.

[!Zar!]

Raising your car and/or changing your caster will ruing your alignment.

There is more to hammer than just the seam.

Hammer wherever you see rubbing.

Also, I hope you have tucked your engine harnesses or else your wheels are going to eat right through it.

[ultimateirving]

Also if you have coil overs man the fuck up and buy some adjustable arms for the front. They are cheap as hell and will help with alignment

[zooopreme]

Being low is your problem. A minor but related problem is your coilovers that you bought. Unless you purchased something else with adjustable dampening, I think that would helped you out.

[Thedriftbadger]

Raising your car and/or changing your caster will ruing your alignment.

There is more to hammer than just the seam.

Hammer wherever you see rubbing.

Also, I hope you have tucked your engine harnesses or else your wheels are going to eat right through it.
I can see exactly where it's rubbing. I painted the seam and it's worn off now. It's hammered as far as it can possibly be, it's comletely flattened. I know the other for the other parts i'll need tubs or some major hammering though. Harness is tucked, not even close to touching.
Also if you have coil overs man the fuck up and buy some adjustable arms for the front. They are cheap as hell and will help with alignment
I have all the arms for the rear. I didn't see a point in buying them for the fronts right now since they are normally used to move the wheel forward, where i would need to move it back. But that's not drift friendly since the car won't countersteer.
Being low is your problem. A minor but related problem is your coilovers that you bought. Unless you purchased something else with adjustable dampening, I think that would helped you out.
Still on the raclands for now. But i can't see how adjustable dampening would help? These are essentially always on full stiff. I do think stiffer springs would help since they're only 7kg fronts. I'm picking up some free aero shit this week from a friend, so i can raise the front a little without it looking retarded.

Alignment numbers: 0 toe, -.07 camber all around. caster is stock specs, idk he didn't give me a number.

[Rara]

I had the same problem last week with my mb battles it was hitting the coil over when you turn all the way I have pbm spacers I put on and it stop hitting but it's barely clearing but it's good now

[Thedriftbadger]

I had the same problem last week with my mb battles it was hitting the coil over when you turn all the way I have pbm spacers I put on and it stop hitting but it's barely clearing but it's good now

Yea mine too but the spacers got rid of it. I gotta order extended studs this week though, i've been putting it off for too long.

[racepar1]

I dont know if theres something wrong with my car or my setup or what. But I cannot get the front tires to stop rubbing. I have the seam completely flattened, alignment is stock specs. Tire size is 215-40-17 on a 17x9.75 +25 wheel with approx 10mm spacers. Every time I turn it hits the seam and when I go full lock it hits the front of the wheel well. Im only tucking like 1/3 of the tire so im not even super low. Am I doing something wrong? Im considering raising it like 1/2 inch in the front.

Just because you have stock arms doesn't mean your alignment is set to factory specs. When you significantly lower a car you need the adjustable arms to get the alignment BACK to factory specs. It sounds like part of your issue is that your tension rods need to be a bit longer and the wheel is forward in the well a bit. Fenderwell rubbing issues are pretty common on 240's especially with as low as a lot of the kiddies like them. There's TONS of info out there on clearencing the fenderwells, I don't see any reason to create a thread about it...

[Thedriftbadger]

Just because you have stock arms doesn't mean your alignment is set to factory specs. When you significantly lower a car you need the adjustable arms to get the alignment BACK to factory specs. It sounds like part of your issue is that your tension rods need to be a bit longer and the wheel is forward in the well a bit. Fenderwell rubbing issues are pretty common on 240's especially with as low as a lot of the kiddies like them. There's TONS of info out there on clearencing the fenderwells, I don't see any reason to create a thread about it...

I searched a lot and i've been messing with it for a while. At this point it's easier to make a thread and get people's opinions, that's what the forum is for.
I'll look into tension rods to help the rubbing at the front.

[racepar1]

I searched a lot and i've been messing with it for a while. At this point it's easier to make a thread and get people's opinions, that's what the forum is for.
I'll look into tension rods to help the rubbing at the front.

Do you REALLY need other people's opinions/instruction on how to use a hammer???

:mepoke:

I mean SERIOUSLY...

[Thedriftbadger]

Do you REALLY need other people's opinions/instruction on how to use a hammer???

:mepoke:

I mean SERIOUSLY...

Did you read the thread at all? I have the seam hammered down flat, i'm trying to see what other people did to get around this problem. I couldn't care less about the rubbing at the front of the wheel well, i know it's easy to fix. It's the top that's giving me problems. The whole purpose of the forum is to ask questions, why do you have to get bitchy about it? :duh:

[racepar1]

Did you read the thread at all? I have the seam hammered down flat, i'm trying to see what other people did to get around this problem. I couldn't care less about the rubbing at the front of the wheel well, i know it's easy to fix. It's the top that's giving me problems. The whole purpose of the forum is to ask questions, why do you have to get bitchy about it? :duh:

You could have asked in the wheel fitment thread...

There's LOTS of guys in there that have more aggressive setups than what you've got.

Why do you youngsters have to get so butthurt when someone doesn't like your thread?

It sounds to me like you car is beyond slammed. The upper pinch weld shouldn't be giving you that much of an issue. You could re-adjust your coilovers. Set the position of your lower bracket so that when the shock hits the bumpstop and the full weight of the vehicle is on it there is a little clearence at the top of the wheelwell. Make any further ride heighth adjustments with the lower spring perch. You'll need to remove the springs and use a jack to lift the wheel. I would lock the prake pedal somehow so it doesn't roll off the jack too. You'll lose shock travel, buy you'll stop hitting the pinch weld...

Wait, your shocks DO have bumpstops on them right???

[Thedriftbadger]

You could have asked in the wheel fitment thread...

There's LOTS of guys in there that have more aggressive setups than what you've got.

Why do you youngsters have to get so butthurt when someone doesn't like your thread?

It sounds to me like you car is beyond slammed. The upper pinch weld shouldn't be giving you that much of an issue. You could re-adjust your coilovers. Set the position of your lower bracket so that when the shock hits the bumpstop and the full weight of the vehicle is on it there is a little clearence at the top of the wheelwell. Make any further ride heighth adjustments with the lower spring perch. You'll need to remove the springs and use a jack to lift the wheel. I would lock the prake pedal somehow so it doesn't roll off the jack too. You'll lose shock travel, buy you'll stop hitting the pinch weld...

Wait, your shocks DO have bumpstops on them right???
If i asked in the wheel fitment thread they would say to make a thread cause it's pics only.
I'd rather raise the car than lose suspension travel.

[racepar1]

If i asked in the wheel fitment thread they would say to make a thread cause it's pics only.
I'd rather raise the car than lose suspension travel.

Honestly you should set your brackets up like that on any coilovers/ride heighth. If your tire is hitting the fenderwell that's not useable travel anyways, and it's definitely not safe. If you want to raise the heighth from there to gain back some travel of course that's not a bad idea.

[thefro526]

Did you read the thread at all? I have the seam hammered down flat, i'm trying to see what other people did to get around this problem. I couldn't care less about the rubbing at the front of the wheel well, i know it's easy to fix. It's the top that's giving me problems. The whole purpose of the forum is to ask questions, why do you have to get bitchy about it? :duh:

Had a bit of trouble following what you've tried thus far, but hopefully the following helps.

If you've already hammered down the seam in the fender well and you're still getting contact there, then you're going to have to do one of the following

- Run a more narrow wheel.
- Run a more narrow tire.
- Have stops attached to the LCA/Tie Rod to stop the wheel before contact
- Widen your front track (extend the LCA) to move the wheel away from the seam - spacers do a similar thing, but not as well. Extending the LCA moves the entire knuckle assembly out regardless of it's travel position where a spacers effective clearance gains are dependent on where you are in your steering curve.

Also, look at the contact point at the seam and figure out where it is in relation to the wheels centerline/diameter. If the center is above the seam, raising the car won't be very effective in gaining clearance unless you raise it a bunch. If the center is below the seam (it's not going to be, IIRC) then small height adjustments may help.

As far as contact is concerned on the front side of the wheel, beat the crap out of your front fenders as much as you can. From there, if you're still having clearance issues, extending the track width at the LCA will help here too, along with some of the other mentioned tricks. Or you can make tubs, your call.

For what it's worth. The tension rod, (castor rod) is one of the most important links on the car. Excess deflection here will cause the LCA to move in an unstable arc through any sort of suspension motion, and may also be causing the LCA to sit 'back' more than stock, effectively lessening the clearance in the fenders.

[!Zar!]

Change your caster.

BOOM