95 S14 ka24de overheating issue.

[KWASx408]

So a friend of mine blew a hole through his radiator and wanted to buy the radiator out of my car because I had a back up cxracing for my car. I drove my car home from school, parked it and went and bought new coolant and swapped the radiators out then filled it and started the bleeding process. I opened the bleeder screw, put a funnel in the rad and filled it until coolant came out the bleeder. Closed the bleeder put the cap on and started it up. Test drove it and it got hot so I opened the bleeder screw and air came out. It was about 3am at this point so I parked it and left it until the next day.

Started it up for a test drive the next day and it ran fine for about 15 minutes and started to overheat again. Opened the hood and there was coolant puking everywhere from the overflow. Bled a ton of air out of the bleeder then felt the bottom rad hose that goes to the thermostat and it was cold. So I assumed the thermostat was bad. Replaced it and still have the same problem. I can't figure out why I still have air in the system after bleeding about 5 times. Am I bleeding the system wrong? Could a possible cracked coolant hose cause this? Possibly a faulty radiator? Heater core? I'm stumped and any input or bleeding methods are welcome.

1) Old working radiator replaced with brand new rad
2) Bleed the system about 5 times still getting air.
3) possibly bleeding it wrong?
4) new thermostat


Ps I read a couple places where the hole in the thermostat has to be placed vertical "12 o'clock" and I am not sure if I did that. Could that cause the problem?


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[Rushin]

The cooling systems in these cars are ass-backwards and a pain to bleed. I know it may sound redundant, but sounds like it needs to be bled a bit more. Try one of these bad boys:

Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel : Amazon.com : Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0)

Make sure to shake/squeeze every single hose that has coolant running through it. I found that once the car heats up to ~normal temp, squeezing the lower hose several times lets it drink some more coolant and that typically does the trick. Hope any of this helps.

[KWASx408]

Even though it's janky, isn't that the same concept as stuffing the funnel in the rad neck? I'll go to advanced tomorrow and see if they have one. Thanks man. I guess I'll just keep on bleeding lol

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[Kallixtos]

The cooling systems in these cars are ass-backwards and a pain to bleed. I know it may sound redundant, but sounds like it needs to be bled a bit more. Try one of these bad boys:

Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel : Amazon.com : Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0)





I use this. ^

Did any junk come out when you drained the cooling system? Maybe its clogged somewhere.

[KWASx408]

No junk, just discolored.

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[brndck]

The lisle funnel is the shit. I use it and never have any issues with air pockets.

[KWASx408]

Update. Keeping this short because it's 315 and I'm dead tired. So it's about 30ish degrees right now, and there is an event tomorrow so I need my car ready. Jacked it up super high opened the bleeder and rad cap and let it idle. And idle and idle. It wouldn't get to operating temp. Shot it with a digital thermometer and the upper neck by where the bleeder is, is about 171 degrees along with the whole upper hose. That's after about a solid 30 minutes of idling. This whole time the thermostat housing and the lower hose are about 60-70 degrees. During this whole hour long session the the lower rad hose didn't go past 75 degrees. How is this car not overheating. I believe the thermostat opens in the high 180's so is my car not getting to operating temperature? Could that be the reason why my thermostat isn't opening? And while it idles, the stock electric fan keeps kicking on and shutting off. At least every minute. I'm so stumped it's aggravating.....

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