S13 rb25det swap HELP!!!!

[krazzin]

K so asking for advice and any help I can get on doing this swap. I'll start off by telling u about me n my build, if u have nothing good to say then don't comment on my posts. I just started auto mechanics school because I wanted to do this build and didn't have any knowledge of cars so I started school just so I can build my own 240sx with an rb25det...

I have a 91 s13 shell, it's clean and doesn't seem to have any rust. I'm planning on stripping it all and painting it, and do what ever else it might need while I'm at it. It's sitting on some xxR's n some shitty suspension.

Around the time I bought the shell I got my hands on a rb25det that wasn't complete but it was a convenient investment. It looks like it's been rebuild(shitily).... Did a leak down test and two of the cylinders arnt holding pressure so looks like one of the exh valves is damaged and the other one isn't sitting right. My plan is to get an oem engine rebuild kit and have some muchinist work done on it. Also I'm missing a few things for it, exh/int manifolds, clutch, fuel rail, injectors, turbo, wire harness, mounts and not sure what else.

So my question is where should I start, I don't have any extra cash for parts till next semester, but what can I do to the shell in the mean time besides strip it n rep ain't it. I know I halfto instal some gauges and some rewiring but not sure exactly what. Any links to threads on this build would help or personal experience. I'm not even sure if I'm asking all the right questions, I do want to purchase a gt35r turbo.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/null_zps3704e3e9.jpg
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http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/740C0034-9FAE-4C4E-95CB-80D95EE86199-228-0000001436CA8859_zps3a4cdf73.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/1918050D-8B3C-4649-9F7F-F67082DE3E21-228-000000143E13FCBA_zps47e9aff4.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/D860431B-40DD-495A-83DF-75F3A50D6EE3-228-00000014460AEDF1_zps3e1f03dc.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/A3991698-FE09-4817-AD72-51209C45C359-228-00000014627750F6_zps554d58b0.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/6648A6F2-F784-4902-93D5-B0B019327738-228-000000146A39A8B9_zps0f219c37.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/6BA786E2-353D-4ECC-8567-ED0C31A9EDA8-228-000000147409481B_zps66868fcc.jpg

[fliprayzin240sx]

You need an engine mount kit first, then custom driveshaft, wiring specialties wiring harness, walbro fuel pump and intercooler/piping. That's before all the accessories you're potentially missing since it didnt look like you have a complete engine.

[krazzin]

You need an engine mount kit first, then custom driveshaft, wiring specialties wiring harness, walbro fuel pump and intercooler/piping. That's before all the accessories you're potentially missing since it didnt look like you have a complete engine.

K so I do have a walbro fuel pump, I'm planing on making my own mounts, which shouldn't be too hard I feel I can make better ones then some out there, the wiring harness I would like to rewire it all my self just not sure what all will be required for that.

When u say a custom drive shaft what do u mean, like does it all halfto be fabricated or can I use the one I have and weld that to fit?

[n33sanz]

Hey man, decent looking car there.
Just a suggestion/recommendation: If your gunna be doin the head over and havin machine shop do it you should just save a little extra cash and have them do fresh springs and stainless valves. Prolly only be a couple hundred extra bucks parts-wise. You can even stick with the stock cams but a fresh set of springs and valves and a good machine shop should give good piece of mind against any problems down the road with that area of the engine.
Just my .02.
I would just get a pressure washer and blast that engine bay and undercarriage.

[n33sanz]

An i would just do a search here about what people do as far as a RB driveshaft in a s13.

[krazzin]

An i would just do a search here about what people do as far as a RB driveshaft in a s13.

Word thanks for the heads up... The engine has some arp rods ans not sure about the springs but they look to be in good shap I'll snap some photos in the morning, and I'll spray that bay down for sure, should I strip all that out cuz I do want to completely repaint it. N I'll check out some threads on the drive shaft

[fliprayzin240sx]

You'll basically need a custom one since you cant use any stock one. Its basically gonna be one with the bigger Z32/RB25 front yoke on a stock S13 shaft.

If you plan on doing everything yourself, good luck to you. This aint exactly a simple swap since its not exactly a bolt on and there's no wiring guide readily available out there.

But here's a few pointers, you dont really need a mount kit, get an RB25 cross member and use that to mount the engine. For the transmission mount, you just have to extend the stock S-chassis bracket. The bracket will basically only line up with 1 hole.
Driveshaft, sure you can weld them together but unless you know how to balance it too, it could be pointless. Just have a 4x4 shop make one for you, thats your cheapest option compared to buying one made by driveshaftshop.

[zerodameaon]

Just buy mounts its easier and its cheap($250 shipped for zerolift), and you can match your drive shaft to whatever mounts you get. So in other words buy a one piece, don't go hacking up a stock drive shaft (been there done that don't recommend that.) It will cost about the same to have one made as ordering a already made one and you have less a chance of your measurements being off.

Also just listen to fliprayzin240sx and buy a wiring specialties oem harness and you do not have to worry about your wiring coming and biting you in the ass which it will. Another been there done that situation.

EDIT: DSS makes a shaft for the mount combo fliprayzin240sx recommended. Maybe its different up there but the few shops I got quotes from were more expensive than a steel shaft by DSS.

[Ilya]

With so much of the engine being apart, I would check on the crank to see if you need a crank collar for the oil pump. Just a thought. Good luck sir

[krazzin]

You'll basically need a custom one since you cant use any stock one. Its basically gonna be one with the bigger Z32/RB25 front yoke on a stock S13 shaft.

If you plan on doing everything yourself, good luck to you. This aint exactly a simple swap since its not exactly a bolt on and there's no wiring guide readily available out there.

But here's a few pointers, you dont really need a mount kit, get an RB25 cross member and use that to mount the engine. For the transmission mount, you just have to extend the stock S-chassis bracket. The bracket will basically only line up with 1 hole.
Driveshaft, sure you can weld them together but unless you know how to balance it too, it could be pointless. Just have a 4x4 shop make one for you, thats your cheapest option compared to buying one made by driveshaftshop.

Awesome thanks for the heads up I'll see if I can go around n ask about the driveshaft, and I'll look into a wire harness, but really I have lots of time and in ok hurry so the more I can figure out myself the better. But this is helping me out a bunch already.

Any advice on sensors n gauges????
What's a good exh/int mani??? I heard stock is much more durable

Another thing I forgot to mention is I'm building this as a street/track car ... It'll probably be my daily (except for the winter since I live in Colorado) and once it's running I'll be taking it out on the local tracks to get myself some track time...

[krazzin]

Just buy mounts its easier and its cheap($250 shipped for zerolift), and you can match your drive shaft to whatever mounts you get. So in other words buy a one piece, don't go hacking up a stock drive shaft (been there done that don't recommend that.) It will cost about the same to have one made as ordering a already made one and you have less a chance of your measurements being off.

Also just listen to fliprayzin240sx and buy a wiring specialties oem harness and you do not have to worry about your wiring coming and biting you in the ass which it will. Another been there done that situation.

EDIT: DSS makes a shaft for the mount combo fliprayzin240sx recommended. Maybe its different up there but the few shops I got quotes from were more expensive than a steel shaft by DSS.

Can u possibly send me a link to the harness, I'm sure I've seen it but too much junk out there...

So as of now figuring out my mounts then drive shaft, I'll work on purchasing a wire harness.

So had my fly wheel sent off to car quest for them to resurface it n it came back like this.... It had a lip on it n now it's gone .... Can anyone tell me if the guy fucked it up for me or is this something I don't need to worry about
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/294CD456-5CD4-43E6-B9FA-A70120583B6E-1028-0000018D4E6EB819_zps7e4aa952.jpg

[krazzin]

With so much of the engine being apart, I would check on the crank to see if you need a crank collar for the oil pump. Just a thought. Good luck sir

Thanks bud I'll make sure to get that checked when I disassemble it

[Suit]

did you pick up that rb off craigslist or do you have it on there? saw a similar one posted around our area. I have a nice hks manifold, only if you use the rb25 crossmember/mounts though. its a cast log divided bottom mount t4, top mount hks 4 bolt divided wastegate flange, already wrapped and ready to go. let me know

[krazzin]

Yeah got it from a kid in gj, Co... I'm not sure which way I'm going with the mounts yet, but I'll get it figured out soon

[Suit]

cool man yea looked familiar. good luck with it and let me know about the manifold

[zerodameaon]

RB25DET to S13 240sx Wiring Harness | Wiring Specialties (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsprrbs1ands.html)

It is a lot of money but it is OEM quality and it should last you just as long as a real OEM harness.

Here is the page to their full RB services including conversion harnesses. They are top notch as well but they are a conversion harness so everything is already 20 years old.
R33 RB25DET Wiring Harness | Wiring Specialties (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25det.html)

[PrimeDirective]

You're missing a lot of parts for someone who doesn't have much money...

Looks like you're missing everything. You're not going to run a GT35r on a stock ecu. I'd guess you need nearly 5-6k in parts to finish that. I'd buy a long block with no tranny, and rebuild/refresh that with oem parts. You could probably get one for like 800 bucks.

That way you could get running, and all you would have to do is buy a mount kit, drive shaft, radiator and fans (or better make the clutch fan fit), intercooler and piping, and make or buy a wiring harness. You'll probably have to dick around with an exhaust elbow too.

You could piece together all the bullshit you are missing but its probably not worth the time.

[krazzin]

RB25DET to S13 240sx Wiring Harness | Wiring Specialties (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wsprrbs1ands.html)

It is a lot of money but it is OEM quality and it should last you just as long as a real OEM harness.

Here is the page to their full RB services including conversion harnesses. They are top notch as well but they are a conversion harness so everything is already 20 years old.
R33 RB25DET Wiring Harness | Wiring Specialties (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25det.html)

K so instructor is an idiot, thus why I'm probably about to ask a dumb question... Is the harness a full body harness or is it a engine bay harness?
Cuz right now I'm working on taking this off
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http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/F935B6F0-7F9E-4350-9BAE-E198027016F8-158-0000000FAE1A008D_zpsabb01805.jpg

[zerodameaon]

No its a valid question, its a engine bay harness, the one that comes out of the passenger side firewall to the motor. The harness that comes around from the drivers foot well will not be touched. It will plug into your dash harness, either brown or white plug depending on KAE or KADE donor chassis so you don't have to touch that under dash mess. You will however have to adjust your tach but there are instructions and the end of the install pdf. It will come up from the firewall and hook into that fuse box mess somewhere. If the car was a auto from the factory you select the auto harness and it has the proper conversion to manual. If the car was a manual you select 5spd and it will have all the proper hookups.

Here is the install instructions if you want pictures and such.
http://site.wiringspecialties.com/Wholesale_Instructions/RB25DETtoS13EngineHarnessInstall.pdf

[Sileighty_85]

Read through this, Yes its for an S14 but pretty much everything applies

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/332057-project-rb-how.html

[krazzin]

Read through this, Yes its for an S14 but pretty much everything applies

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/332057-project-rb-how.html

Ahh there we go :) I've read that befor but couldn't find it again so thank u for the link .... That will help a lot for sure

[krazzin]

No its a valid question, its a engine bay harness, the one that comes out of the passenger side firewall to the motor. The harness that comes around from the drivers foot well will not be touched. It will plug into your dash harness, either brown or white plug depending on KAE or KADE donor chassis so you don't have to touch that under dash mess. You will however have to adjust your tach but there are instructions and the end of the install pdf. It will come up from the firewall and hook into that fuse box mess somewhere. If the car was a auto from the factory you select the auto harness and it has the proper conversion to manual. If the car was a manual you select 5spd and it will have all the proper hookups.

Here is the install instructions if you want pictures and such.
http://site.wiringspecialties.com/Wholesale_Instructions/RB25DETtoS13EngineHarnessInstall.pdf
Ok so I'm not positive on weather the shell was a kae kade, how can I look that up using my vin number??? So this is the harness as of right now that I have got removed, this is all a learning proses for me so I know I probably started taking it apart at the wrong end....
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/032AA20B-BE39-4E65-B829-42561137D386-580-0000009CCAD19C1A_zps8cae69e7.jpg
And how can I find out what series my rb is, 1 or 2.... I know u probably can't tell from there pictures, I read somethig about how I can find out but it didn't make sense...
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/B60377FA-9994-46F7-9FB4-69947DCDAC6F-228-0000001453009C38_zps1201acf1.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/a5l5e8x/D860431B-40DD-495A-83DF-75F3A50D6EE3-228-00000014460AEDF1_zps3e1f03dc.jpg

[Gamma]

Buy SYKO munt kit its worth it.. Happy build and GL take your time and dont stress it cant stress that enough..
P.S. DON'T GIVE UP ON THE RB SWAP

[Little Jason]

Ok so I'm not positive on weather the shell was a kae kade, how can I look that up using my vin number???

if its a 91, it was a ka24de.

[krazzin]

Buy SYKO munt kit its worth it.. Happy build and GL take your time and dont stress it cant stress that enough..
P.S. DON'T GIVE UP ON THE RB SWAP

Kk an ima look not it for sure, thanks for the words of encouragement, I'm definetly in no hurry so ima take my time n do it right even if it takes mea few years :S lol

Hoping i can get a job at this shop next door while I'm in school, sick of working n a kitchen.... But thanks to this build I'm totally pumped to make some changes :)

[fliprayzin240sx]

Blocks are pretty much the same between S1 and S2 RB25s. The difference is more electrical than anything. You'd have to see what MAF, coilpacks and CAS sensor you have to figure out what series you have.

Since you have the engine out, things I did to prep the engine: Fresh stock HG, ARP headstuds, new water pump, oil pump, thermostat and try to get as much rust out of the iron block...you will have a lot. If you can afford it, get the crank collar machined and extended so you dont have to worry about it ever.

Oil collar on the RB25 crank collar/oil pump driver is short and barely makes contact with the oil pump. Maybe 1/4 of the pump makes contact with the crank. Eventually, the oil pump will get rounded out or crank and cause you to lose all oil pressure...Bubye engine...

[Ilya]

I have not seen the rb oil pump but just to bring this up and use peoples brains a bit: instead of having to tear apart a block to take out the crank to have machined to fit a $120 crank collar, why can't you extend the snout on the oil pump gear? Or make an oil pump gear on a cnc machine that would reach back into the block and fit more over the factory crank?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Because when its all said and done, its still more cost effective to just add a extended snout on the crank. Guys in Japan, Australia and Europe this way for a reason. If it was cheaper to go CNC a new oil pump gear, it would have happened already.

[zerodameaon]

I see an ignitor in the box and if it belongs to that RB, you have a S1, the CAS as well matches S1.

[krazzin]

I see an ignitor in the box and if it belongs to that RB, you have a S1, the CAS as well matches S1.

Sweet awesome thank you, so the main diff between s1 n s2 is the electrical?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Sweet awesome thank you, so the main diff between s1 n s2 is the electrical?

Yup, same same. Neo is where alot changed. Certain year Neo got their crank snout fixed/extended, solid lifter setup like RB26s, top fed injectors vs side fed, those are the biggest I remember engine wise.

[redline racer510]

Yup, same same. Neo is where alot changed. Certain year Neo got their crank snout fixed/extended, solid lifter setup like RB26s, top fed injectors vs side fed, those are the biggest I remember engine wise.

I believe the finally got a steel turbine wheel as well.

[mantas]

+1 on the mount kit and harness, buy those, do the rest of the work yourself. Do not cheap out on those two unless you want headaches down the line. I spent days repairing my harness, it was done right but it was a nightmare and anytime I had any kind of a problem....the first thing that came to mind - is it my wiring?