no brake pressure

[Mr. Spool]

I recently replaced my front and rear pads, after doing my rear pads I started driving back and forth in my drive way, just to make sure every thing was set up right. after a few minutes I stopped and relized that I had not tightened the driverside rear bleeder screw. I leaked fluid everywhere, I have since bleed all my brakes, when the front of the car is up in the air there is brake pressure, but when the rear was up there was no break pressure, Does any body know why and what I can do about it?

there are no air bubles comming out anywere any more.

[Mr. Spool]

any body got some info, is there a specific way to bleed the brakes.

[uiuc240]

The brakes are diagonally connected. I can't remember the pattern, but I'm sure it's online somewhere.

Search and ye shall find.

Sorry to pull the search card, but my FSM is at home and it's been a long time since I bled the brakes. I'd have to look it up too.

Eric

[sykikchimp]

Sounds like you just have a lot of air in the system. Bleed it thourougly.

farthest from the MC first then move closer..

so RR, LR, RF, LF

that's the way I've always done it.

Proper way to bleed brakes:
use 2 people.
Keep bleed screw closed.
Pump pedal till its hard, and hold pressure on the pedal at the top of the stroke.
yell to buddy to release. He should open the bleed screw about 1/4-1/3 turn, and then close before the brake pedal reaches the floor. You should maintain constant pressure on the pedal. Time for the bleeder to be open is usually less than 1 sec. I usually scream "Open" , and then after my foot passes half way "CLOSE" that way, by the time it registers to my buddy, he is closing the bleed screw before pedal reaches bottom.
Repeat until all air is gone from that corner, and then move to the next corner.
NEVER EVER EVER LET THE FLUID LEVEL GET BELOW "LOW" Top off the resevoir constantly.

Make sure you use a clear hose at the bleed screw to see air bubbles. Even very small ones can affect pedal feel. I also tap my calipers with a rubber mallet b/w openings to make sure any air that could be lodged in the little nooks and crannies get loose.

This takes a long time, and usually takes b/w 1-2 liters for a very thourough flush. Less for just a bleed.

[mistert]

i have speed bleeders on my calipers now, but you really dont need 2 people to do the brakes...go to autozone or kragen or something and borrow one of their vacuum pumps it'll come with the clear tubing and a little catch cup.
you just do like sykikchimp described, but you get the pedal hard, open the screw, then put the vacuum pump hose on and pump until bubbles stop coming out. close it up and pump the pedal and do it again just to make sure, top off the reservoir and go on to the next line.
oh yeah it is also important to make sure that your car is level. put 4 jack stands under it and try and make sure its level as you can possibly get it. The vacuum pump is like $10 to rent from autozone you get your $ back or you can just buy it for the same price. the vacuum pump is HUGE if youre gonna flush it, too. and invest in some of those speedbleeders they're f'ing sick

[element240]

simple, but did you pump your brakes too?

[Mr. Spool]

The search card is okay to pull, I have however searched. I have bleed 240 brakes probably 15-20 times and have never run into this problem. I am getting no air yet the peddle feels like there is no pressure. but if the front of the car is up I have plenty of pressure. how do I know if I need to bench bleed the m/c. thanks.

[mistert]

you could have a bad m/c go get a rebuilt unit it'll eb like $55 with a core charge

[Mr. Spool]

thats what I thought at first, but I had just changed it out like 2 months ago, and it worked fine before I let all this air in the line. I was taping on my brake t in the passenger side wheel well and it snapped in half. so maybe I found the culprit.