View Full Version : 5 lug question
CoasTek240
05-19-2004, 11:33 AM
ok, ive got a fairly simple question (i think)
with the GTO 5 lug hubs installed on my s13, what all would i need to finish the 5 lug/z32 brake swap?
heres what i think:
-gto 5 lug hub
-z32 rotors
-z32 calipers
-conversion lines
-pads
i'm thinking i need some sort of bracket or spacer for the z32 caliper...do i? is there anything else you can think of?
btw.. pm me if your selling gto 5 lug hubs (i know sam @ jspec has em and so doesnt wayne @phase2)
Kid Zelda
05-19-2004, 11:45 AM
nope, thats it.. you got it covered .. well, except for brake fluid and TWO more lug nuts
NinjaGaiden
05-19-2004, 12:08 PM
5lug wheels and
5lug spare!
CoasTek240
05-19-2004, 12:44 PM
HOTNESS! well i already have z32 wheels. now to find more 5 lug and brake stuff for the rear.
kid zelda- what weight brake fluid do u reccomend?
also do u have any rear 5 lug brake swap parts for sale>?
cdlong
05-19-2004, 12:54 PM
get something that's DOT 4 at least. if you have extra cash, get some of the special racing fluid or DOT 5.1. it really doesn't matter that much unless you do extended hot laps on a track.
Flybert
05-19-2004, 02:08 PM
Check the classifieds. I got the rear hubs for sale.
NinjaGaiden
05-19-2004, 05:13 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33563&item=2479055221
I got the attain hubs. I have bought stuff from this guy (jeff) before, cool guy to deal with.
Kid Zelda
05-19-2004, 06:12 PM
kid zelda- what weight brake fluid do u reccomend?
also do u have any rear 5 lug brake swap parts for sale>?
Brake fluid does not come in weight :hammer:
Either you use dot 3 or dot 4.
I've had good experience with off the shelf castrol for daily and when I needed a little more ATE super blue brake fluid.. iirc has a dry boiling point of 536F.
mbmbmb23
05-19-2004, 09:26 PM
ok, ive got a fairly simple question (i think)
with the GTO 5 lug hubs installed on my s13, what all would i need to finish the 5 lug/z32 brake swap?
heres what i think:
-gto 5 lug hub
-z32 rotors
-z32 calipers
-conversion lines
-pads
i'm thinking i need some sort of bracket or spacer for the z32 caliper...do i? is there anything else you can think of?
btw.. pm me if your selling gto 5 lug hubs (i know sam @ jspec has em and so doesnt wayne @phase2)
Do you have the caliper hardware, extra lugnuts, Russell speed bleeders (optional), 10mm flare nut wrench, paint for rotor hats?? (thats all I can think of).
-m
CoasTek240
05-20-2004, 09:26 AM
Do you have the caliper hardware, extra lugnuts, Russell speed bleeders (optional), 10mm flare nut wrench, paint for rotor hats?? (thats all I can think of).
-m
caliper hardware?....umm i am aware that i need the pins, shims, but if i buy a good set of calipers already rebuilt, or new i should be good, right?
extra lugnuts?... do our lugnuts work in z32 rims?...i got a set of z32 rims this week.
speed bleeders i already have a set of my s13 brakes, i'll just switch em, i should be able to, right?
10mm flare nut wrench what the hell is that, how is it different than a normal 10mm wrench? where can i get one?
paint for rotor hats rotor hats?...are those the parts in the center of the rotor, (mounts to the hub?) do i need to paint?.. i guess it'd make it look nice. id prolly just go with black. it'd prolly be good to avoid rust.
ok so i'm still parting things together.
-i'm going to see what i can get on ebay, for 5 lug front hubs, gotta wait for a good price. if i cant find something within the next couple weeks, i'll just order the GTO's from phase2 or jspec.
-300zx front brake setup, im waiting on a responce from a couple people for a good 300zx front brake setup. (everything listed above)
-i'm buying the rear 5lug hubs from flybert, (as long as nothing falls through on his end, ill send payment asap) :boink:
-what should i do for rear brakes?....(options), z32, s14se?...
now when i've put this very common brake swap on, i still cantfind a solid consensus on what to do about the MC. do i have to change that right away? i'm under the impression i'll be aiight without it. btw, i dont have ABS
thanx for all the help yall! i've been wanting to do this for 2 years now, and i'm so stoked to finally getting around to it. (you know what i'm talking bout Matt, lol...do you still have your stuff in your garage?)
sykikchimp
05-20-2004, 09:51 AM
you can do it without swapping the MC, but you will have a small amount of play in the top of the pedal stroke, and it won't be as firm as it was with the stock brakes.
If I had it to do over again, I would have done a 1" MC at the same time as my 300zx caliper conversion. I hate the slop at the top of the pedal, and was quite dissappointed b/c I could get the brake pedal hard as a rock with the stock system, and the stock system was easier to modulate b/c of it.
Brake fluid, ATE Super Blue all the way. Love that stuff. NEVER boiled it. Any dot 4 will work great though. Most DOT 5.1 fluids aren't good for street cars b/c they absorb water very fast, and have to be flushed often. NEVER use DOT 5. It is silicone based, and will wreak havok on your brake system.
240sx lugnuts will work fine for the Z32 wheels. Good choice btw.
As for rear brakes, you'll need 5-lug rotors from an S14, and that is all. Or you could have your current rotors re-drilled (what I did). Unless you want to upgrade calipers. Then 300zx rear brake swap is in order. check out importnut.com (i think?)
The only caliper hardware you need are the items listed here on Don's page:http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/brakesz32.html at the bottom.
Pad pins
Pad pin clips
Spring clips
Pad shims are nice too since they help greatly with noisy brakes that are notorious on z32's.
I think Tougefactory.com has a pretty good deal on GTO hubs.
If you paint your rotor hats, make sure you use 900+ degree paint minimum.
240sx speed bleeders work perfect in z32's. Just make sure you put some new sealant on the threads, and DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. they only take like 5-7 ft lb. If you over tighten them, you will ruin the speed bleeder. The tips get crushed, and the ball won't seal properly.
Did I miss anything?
CoasTek240
05-20-2004, 11:31 AM
charles, you're the man!.... you brought me a wealth of good information (good news too!)
i'm stoked i can use the 5 lug s14 rear rotors and thats it?...
also i will probably take your advice about doing the MC swap while i'm @ it. i've heard many of the complaints of the sloppy z32 brake pedal.
i'm going to do some research b4 i start asking questions botu that ish. i'm sure that with in a couple days reading up in my spare time @ work, and sourcing the parts, that dave and i can figure it out. if not, i'm sure you'll see another post on this thread, or a completly new thread.
thanx everyone.
CoasTek240
05-20-2004, 12:06 PM
OK, so i've been reading up, and havent noticed any people documenting the much inferior rear brake/5-lug swap. i read about it on IMPORTNUT... that was really more about thw z32 brakes all around.
now i wanted to simply swap the rear hubs from an s14, throw on the s14 rotor, and call it a day. can this be done, and if so, can anyone point me in the direction of finding somewhere to get information that would be beneficial to me, or does anyone have any tips they can give me or how to swap the hubs. i feel i'm moderalty mechanically inclined, but do not have much experience. other than doing shit to my 240's over the past years.
it's not that i dont trust you charles, but i wanted to research it and havent found anything, yet.
thanx again.
sykikchimp
05-20-2004, 12:29 PM
S14 hubs, and S14 SE rotors work perfect. The rear rotor backspacing and size is the same for all 240's. The only variation was the front rotors on ABS 240's.
To remove the rear hubs:
1. remove rotor, and brake caliper from upright. (no need to disconnect ebrake lines, or brake lines..
you'll have to just push the caliper out of the way)
2. remove 4 bolts from back of hub. You'll have to rotate the axle to be able to get room to fit your ratchet in there. this is a pain in the ass b/c the space is so tight.
3. Get a hub puller. like this:
http://www.autopart.com/Tools/pictures/300dpi/CDefault-206.jpg
bolt the legs to the hub (may need washers), and position the bolt in the center of the tip of the axle. There is a dimple for it. Then use a big wrench/breaker bar/ or preferably an impact wrench to tighten the bolt until the hub pops loose. You can rent these at Autozone. It's just a universal hub puller.
4. Hard part is done. Now just reverse the process.
gigimow
05-20-2004, 02:27 PM
Is it neccessary to replace the ball bearing (i think that's what they're called) in the back of the hub when doing this conversion?
Thanks
CoasTek240
05-20-2004, 02:34 PM
Is it neccessary to replace the ball bearing (i think that's what they're called) in the back of the hub when doing this conversion?
Thanks
I was told its on a need be basis. i dont know whether i will or not. frankly, i think thatd be a pain in the ass.
some people get by without having to do it.
gigimow
05-20-2004, 05:54 PM
I was told its on a need be basis. i dont know whether i will or not. frankly, i think thatd be a pain in the ass.
some people get by without having to do it.
How would I know if it's bad or not? I need to do this soon since I bought a set of 350z wheels that's just taking up space in the garage for now.
vababe
05-21-2004, 01:16 AM
okay, well i told you i had an account. this is crazy!
sykikchimp
05-21-2004, 02:20 PM
well, not sure how to tell off the car, but a bad bearing will hum loudly while driving.
To replace the bearings they have to be pressed out, and back in. It is a PITA. I bought 300zx rear hubs, and one was bad. Called the wreching yard, and they sent me another one that worked fine.
CoasTek240
05-24-2004, 08:54 AM
well, not sure how to tell off the car, but a bad bearing will hum loudly while driving.
To replace the bearings they have to be pressed out, and back in. It is a PITA. I bought 300zx rear hubs, and one was bad. Called the wreching yard, and they sent me another one that worked fine.
so what youre trying to say, is hope that the bearings in my s14 rear hubs are good. im sure they are froma junkyard, so i dunno, we'll see. can i tell if they're bad,(other than the obvious) by looking @ em rather than putting them on the car and hearing the loud dreadfull humming sound.
lilredstiffy
05-24-2004, 10:12 AM
You could check how much axial end play there is, but most likely if it turns smoothly you are fine.
kandyflip445
05-24-2004, 03:48 PM
Make sure to clean your mating surfaces before assembly! :) So everything lines up right.
240sxconversion
05-24-2004, 05:10 PM
ok last time i checked, u cant use DOT4 after u use DOT3. If u plan on using DOT4, u will have to get all new seals and possible lines. I beleive this is true, but now that someone said DOT5, i dont remember if its DOT3 and DOT4 or is it DOT4 and DOT5, anyone else clear this up, sine i just had a brain fart
Frappe
05-24-2004, 06:50 PM
That would be DOT 5 fluid, since it's silicone based.
cdlong
05-24-2004, 06:51 PM
nope, DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are all fine to use in the same system. DOT 5 is silicone based and will destroy all the rubber in a standard system. not that you would want to, it's a heavy duty fluid that won't work well in a street vehicle anyway.
man, i need to type faster.
Frappe
05-24-2004, 08:36 PM
Aye, didn't mention 5.1, as it's not the same as 5
CoasTek240
06-02-2004, 06:27 AM
5.1 Is Fine....5.1 Is What I Used In My Friends Stock S14
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