S13 Pilot Bearing (Clutch) Horror Story

[nissannoob]

Okay, first off I want to thank the many forum members on their topics and responses on the install of a S13 clutch. I recently acquired a 1991 240SX SE Coupe and I have very little experience under the hood of Nissans. I own a 94 Acura Integra LS and have successfully (although painfully) changed the clutch, and figured that the swap wouldn't be so bad in a S13 seeing that the front suspension didn't have to be removed. Big mistake on that assumption.

The car was a salvage title and I picked it up from a friend who couldn't afford to restore it. Other than body work (front bumber and reinforcement), the engine seems to be in fair shape. Armed a factory 91 240SX service manual and a printed copy of "Steve and Shawn's Clutch tips" (http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/flywheel/index.htm), I went to work on the 13 year old beast.

I had some trouble with the top bell housing bolts as they are impossible to reach with your hands. I was able to get to them with a couple of 10" extensions and a pivoting angle attachment. I can't see any other way of getting to them unless you take the engine out. Be aware that there are 2-3 top bell housing bolts that cannot be reached by hand or conventional socket. So if you're wondering why that bell housing's not coming off, you've missed a top bolt.

I ran into some trouble with the flywheel bolts too. They are in there really really tight. It's understandable as they hold your flywheel in, but damn, I really made myself sore that night getting them off. Even with a torque extender (an old bike seat pipe), it was really hard. When I did get them off, those bolts looked just like they came from the factory. The threads were immaculate. My astonishment wore off quicky though....

I got as far as the pilot bearing and literally got stuck. The pilot bearing had pretty much merged with the inner crankshaft cavity. Seeing that I pulled the original Nissan clutch disc out, I assumed this was here from the day the car was born. After years of friction and heat, it found itself to be rather compfy where it was. No matter how I tried that thing didn't budge. Pulling it; no movement. Tap it in to make it budge a little; no movement. I then admitted defeat for the day and ran to my computer to consult the forums. That is where I found news of a pilot bearing remover. I thought "Holy shit. There's actually a pilot bearing remover." I searched my local auto parts stores (Autozone, Parts America, Checker Auto, NAPA) and found that no one had it in stock. I found one at an Autozone, but when I stopped by and took my replacement bearing with me to test it, I found that it was too big. NAPA could order it, but it was $80. This was a one time use, I didn't want to buy one; I was looking to rent it. Fairly discouraged and ready to pitch $80 for the removal of this thing, I took another look at the inexpensive bushing that had me so frustrated. I then thought, "screw this, I'm gonna drill it out."

Of course I wouldn't recommend anyone to do this but I was at my wits end. I grabbed a buddy and with this handy RotoZip, we knawed away at the bushing until it was free enough to be pulled out with my angle-tip pliers. My buddy and I always work in fear when using that RotoZip - it spins fast as hell. We tried using the conventional drill, but it wasn't fast enough for us. Nonetheless, I decided to post my pilot bearing story to help anyone else who gets in my situation. I'm still in the middle of putting it back together, but that's for later this weekend. Hopefully I don't run into anything else. Although I have a feeling that lining up that transmission is going to be a bitch...

-nissannoob

[Flybert]

Dude, you did it the hard way. Even if the pilot bushing puller is too big, you can file it down so it fits. Then rub some of that black grease and oil that is on your hands to make it look black again. That's how I did mine.

[sciamop]

http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/2000AUG/20099471.shtml

One old trick is to fill the recess behind the pilot bearing, and the center of the bearing with grease. The grease must fill the voids, and not have air pockets. Then you drive a close fitting shaft (like your clutch centering tool) into the center of the bearing. The hydraulic pressure you create will force the pilot bearing out. I've done it! I doubted that it would work, but this method will work.

OR

This works fine in theory, but theory breaks down when the bearing involved is the original, with failed seals. Pump full of grease, insert shaft (in this case an old input shaft I got from a broken gearbox), hammer, and wipe grease from your face, clothes, tools and workshop. Plan B: Use something with a much higher consistency, like chewing gum or bodykit (the "sausages" you use for sealing fenders, not the pump type you'ld use for seams), instead. Worked like a charm.

On another occasion I didn't have such with me, but found a suitable iron rod with a 90 degree angle at one end, and a flattened part with a rivet at the other. I think it came from an old lawn mower. The rivet grabbed behind the bearing when I inserted the rod into the bearing. Had a mate hold it in place, and using a heavy piece of pipe I found nearby I hammered out the bearing (which obviously wasn't intended for reuse). In short, use whatever junk you have around, and improvise.