LS S13 Coupe Build - Lots of Custom Parts

[MyblackS13]

I'm about 2 years in this little engine swap project of mine that has turned into way more and I decided I would share here on Zilvia. This car has been an 11 year project in the running. I've had it "finished" atleast 3 times now. It started in 02' and was a basic SR swap. I drove that for a while, built the SR, installed a body kit and painted the car. Long story short, the built up SR didn't hold together, and I wasn't having much luck finding what I was looking for in a new block so I decided on going with a LS1.

Here's where the car started in 2002

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/2002%20240sx/LSIDE---1.jpg

And here's what I did to it first.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/CherryBlossoms.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Engine%20Rebuild/incar02.jpg

The SR was smoking, came out for a little freshen up and things were a lot worse than I thought. If you look closely at the bottom of the cylinder there is a chunk out of the liner and some of the casting around it blew out. It could still work, but not exactly ideal.

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/SR20DET%20Parts/IMG_0807.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/SR20DET%20Parts/IMG_0807.jpg

After tearing it down and parting as much as I could from the SR parts, I picked up a LS1 from a 2002 Trans-Am with a T56 from Craigslist. It came complete with the LS6 intake manifold so that was a bonus. A few weeks after I got the engine I started work on the motor mounts.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0173.jpg

It went in pretty easily, but the tunnel took a lot of pounding to get the engine in the right spot. That's a friend of mine in the tunnel, we were taking turns with the hammer.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0174.jpg

I made the motor mounts with some 1/4" thick laser cut plates and short sections of 2"x2"x1/4" wall tube

Passenger Side
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0990.jpg

Drivers Side
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0987.jpg

The tranny mount was made from some 1-1/8"OD .120 wall tube and angle iron for the mount plates.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0989.jpg

The shifter is just about dead center in the hole
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0994.jpg

[MyblackS13]

So, building motor mounts to stuff a ls1 into a 240sx seemed like a challenge, but it was actually a breeze compared to building headers and attempting to make the tubes equal length. I started with a 1-3/4" OD long tube header kit from Summit Racing, a set of 3/8" LS1 flanges and two 180 degree J-bends from Jegs. The long tube header kit has tubes that are bent for a small block, probably to go in something pretty large, like a monster truck, because when I placed one of the pipes in the 240 it hung under the car about 2". For this project I'm not sure if the kit was the way to go, but for about $100, after cutting the tubes up, I had a lot of bends to work with. Also I was unimpressed by the fit of the collectors so I purchased a set of Megs formed merge collectors and merge bullets, these are nice pieces.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0181.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0181.jpg.html)

Megs Merge Bullets after welding.


I was happy that I had called them they pointed me in the right direction for my power goals and my usage of the car. As a result I am using smaller than typical collectors and going with a 2-1/2", the same size as my Y-pipe. But with the tighter collectors I am going to have to make sure to have a good equal length design for my header tubes.

I made and adjustable collector holder to hold the header collector in position.


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0189.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0189.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0188.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0188.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0988.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMG_0988.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0986.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMG_0986.jpg.html)

My first length attempt was 32" with the collector just behind the firewall, to maximize ground clearance, it worked great for the two cylinders to the front of the engine, but not so well when it came to the back two, I had to pick one or the other to make the 32" length, then the one that didn't get the length was going to be 4-5 inches shorter which just wasn't going to work. So I went back to the drawing board and came up with some creative tube arrangement to shorten all of the tubes to 28" the shorter end of the recommended length from cone engineering.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0996.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMG_0996.jpg.html)

Notice the front most tube, its tucked as tight to the block as I could get it and actually enters the collector above the next tube behind it to make it possible to make these headers equal length.

I decided to tuck the front most tube in very close to the block and take the straightest path possible towards the collector, inserting it into the upper opening (rather than the lower opening where it would typically go), tucking the second tube from the front underneath it. With this tangled tube arrangement, I was able to get the first three cylinders within 1/2" of length of each other and the last one within 2", this is not perfect equal length, but I think it will do. I could have squeezed a little more length to get it closer to the 28" goal, but I would have had to have much more aggressive angles, which didn't seem worth it in terms of loss of flow.


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0995.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMG_0995.jpg.html)

Front View


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0997.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMG_0997.jpg.html)

Here's the underside view, there's another new tool under there, an adjustable V-channeled (angle iron) tube tube stand. Between this and the collector holder these are some massively helpful tools.

I wanted to run all the tubes to one side or the other of the steering shaft, but the collectors wouldn't fit through and it wasn't working for the equal length thing either. I ended up running the front two cylinders inboard, and the rear two outboard kind of like the passenger side.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0212.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0212.jpg.html)

Both sides outside of the car.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9536.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9536.jpg.html)


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9537.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9537.jpg.html)

See the steering gap, I'm hoping its enough, but if I have any problems I'm just going to stiffer motor mounts.

I did the final test fit on the headers after the guys at Advanced Chassis welded the tubes to the flanges, I couldn't be too careful before ceramic coating. As always they did a great job and everything came out perfect. They even modified a tube slightly for increased steering clearance. For the ceramic coating I chose a color called blue titanium. Pictures are hard to do the color justice, its a matte charcoal grey color with a little blue metallic, I really like its clean, not too flashy look.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9778.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9778.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9779.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9779.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

After the headers came out for ceramic coating, the engine went on the stand where I promptly tore it down.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9700.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9700.jpg.html)

The engine had carbon headgaskets, which are nasty. I bought a plastic scraper and some Permatex gasket remover and went to town on all the crap they left behind. To get all the left over residue off, I went over the surface with a nylon Scotchbrite pad (no aluminum oxide) until all the remaining gasket was removed. After that I used some 2500 grit sandpaper to get the final finish, to give the Cometic headgaskets a good sealing surface. Then I cleaned everything over and over again and checked all the surfaces for dirt with my fingertips and then cleaned some more. You can never be too clean when you open an engine. All and all the cleaning took about 3 hours per side.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9701.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9701.jpg.html)

Goodies from the FedEx and UPS guys.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9706.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9706.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9704.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9704.jpg.html)

Here's the grocery list from above:

- Cometic .040 MLS Headgaskets
- LS6 Valley cover, for its improved PCV system
- LS2 Lifter Guides
- LS7 Lifters
- GMPP Heavy Duty Timing Chain
- Melling High Volume Oil Pump
- GM camshaft install gasket kit
- ARP Headbolts
- ARP Camshaft Bolts
- ARP Cam Retainer Bolts
- Lingenfelter GT2-3 Cam
- Lingenfelter LS9 Blue Springs (hand checked for lift to work with the cam)

Check out the difference between the original chain and the heavy duty one, can you tell which one is which? I consider it cheap insurance when getting heavier valve springs, the HD chain has some serious beef to the side plates compared to the original part.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0260.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0260.jpg.html)

Also the melling high volume oil pump is more of a preventative maintenance item as well. Its the part number 10296. It comes with the red high pressure spring installed, which I switched out for the blue standard pressure spring. I suspect that the increased volume alone will try to drain the pan, so I'm at least going to start with a little less pressure.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0261.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0261.jpg.html)

The cam install was pretty uneventful. I discovered that cams are very sharp while I was cleaning it with a bunch of little paper cut like cuts on my hands that I discovered when hosing it down with brake cleaner. I then used some assembly lube and slid the cam into place. Overhead cams (like the SR20DET) are way easier to install, but all and all it wasn't bad. You just have to be patient and careful so that you don't damage the bearings or get it stuck.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0266.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0266.jpg.html)

On to the valve springs. I considered getting a loaner tool, but ended up just buying one specifically made for the job instead. I love new tools anyways. I got the Trick Flow valve spring tool, this tool made the valve spring change simple and quick, its definitely a quality tool.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/TFS-90307.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/TFS-90307.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0272.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0272.jpg.html)

While I was in there I found something interesting, my 799 heads have what looks like hollow exhaust valves and the intake valve is black oxided, I'm not quite sure what to make of it.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0271.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0271.jpg.html)

Super easy, just turn the nut down and pull the locks, there was enough room that I could remove and install them with my fingertips fairly easily.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9777.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9777.jpg.html)

For the valve covers I got the holley ones that eliminate the coil pack brackets in natural cast. I sent those out along with the timing cover for powder and had them coated with a hammertone bronze.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133305.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133305.jpg.html)

While installing the timing cover I installed the ATI Super Damper. I chose ATI p/n 917277, It's a 10% under drive without an air conditioning pulley and SFI approval. No need for A/C since I removed the evaporator from under the dash along with the rest of the system. I wanted an under drive and the ATI seemed to be the best insurance for my engine while providing under drive.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/2012-12-01164111engine.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/2012-12-01164111engine.jpg.html)

I've also added -8 AN heater fittings to the water pump. The original stainless steel fittings were pretty difficult to remove. I tried twisting them with a pipe wrench, wishful thinking that they might just forcefully twist out, but no luck there. I ended up up supporting them with a board to protect the waterpump, smashing in one side with a chisel to collapse it, taking pressure off the sides then they popped right out. After they came out it was just a matter of tapping the holes they're already the correct size, the small side with a 3/8 npt and the larger with a 1/2 npt.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133542.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133542.jpg.html)

[badbob2121]

Nice build so far, I cant imagine how much of a PITA the headers must have been..

[MyblackS13]

Thanks man, the headers were a nightmare, I considered modifying a set of shorties several times while I was building them. I even lined up a professional to help, but that fell though because he had too many to do at the time, so I ground through it on my own. I'm decently far a long on the project right now, just slowly catching up on the posting.

[2muchboost]

Wow amazing work. Def subd for more.

BTW would you happen to have any more pix of the motor mounts that you made?

[MyblackS13]

The clutch decision was a big one for me and one that I didn't take lightly. The clutch can have a huge effect on how the car drives. My final decision was to go light to lessen the hit on the tires and let the engine rev faster for the approximately 2600lb car. First I bought a 7.25" racing clutch.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/QuarterMaster725.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/QuarterMaster725.jpg.html)

The plan was to use this with a button flywheel on an automatic flexplate for an extremely light set-up, but after seeing a lot of you tube videos with extremely jumpy, light switch like clutches and reading manufacturers recommendations to not even drive cars onto the trailer with them I got the idea that it was a little more aggressive than I want to deal with. Dru Nichols (SicBastard) compiled some great information on moment of inertia of clutch assemblies. For those of you not familiar with the term or the concept, moment of inertia in context of a clutch is the idea that the same weight at the same rpm has more energy the further it is placed from its axis of rotation. A good example is a baseball on a string, a baseball on a 2 foot string rotating at 100rpm is only going about 7mph, but the same baseball on a 17 foot string at the same 100rpm is going about 60mph. Enough about the physics and back to the clutches.

Tilton Clutch Assemblies MOI (lb-in^2)
Includes: Clutch cover with diaphragm spring, pressure plates and floater plate(s)
(add 66 MOI and 2.5# to include the button
(add 87 MOI and 3.4# to include a Sonic ultra-lightweight flexplate)

13 4.4” Tilton carbon carbon 4 disc
21.4 5.5” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
29.4 5.5” Tilton 2 disc sintered metallic (6#)
32.2 5.5” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
52.4 7.25” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
76.3 7.25” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
89.6 7.25” Tilton 3 disc sintered metallic (10.2#)
99 8.5” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
100.2 7.25” Tilton 3 disc cerametallic
158 8.5” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
337 9.0” Mantic street dual sprung clutch (33.8#) cool set up!
>3200 11.5"? Stock LS2 flywheel and clutch (52#)

(MOI list thanks to Dru Nichols - SicBastard)

I also put together the following list of weights without MOI with a lot of google searches for light weight clutch assemblies for the LS series engines.

McLeod RST 9-11/16 dia. w/Aluminum Flywheel 560530 (36#)-w/13.5# flywheel
McLeod Mag Force 8" dia twin Assembly (25#)
Spec Lightweight flywheel w/Al PP Option 11-1/2 dia. (33.4#) (McLeod also offers a similar set-up if you call them)
RPS Street Twin 1/2 Carbon (40#)
RPS Street Twin Full Carbon (36#)
RPS Billet Carbon Street Twin w/Steel Flywheel (32#)
RPS Billet Carbon Street Twin w/Al Flywheel (25#)

After talking with Lee at McLeod clutch and Scott at SPD Metalworks I went with the Mag Force twin. They put together a custom assembly based on the pin drive Mag Force, with a strap drive pressure plate, and ceramic discs.


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9681.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9681.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9682.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9682.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9684.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/100_9684.jpg.html)

The McLeod Mag Force Twin is a seriously beautiful piece, its really sad that it has to be buried behind a bellhousing. I bought it to run it though so it has to go in. This being a twin its a little different from other clutch installations I have experienced.


http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215406.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215406.jpg.html)

First you pop off the pressure plate to see the ceramic pucked solid hub disc that's backed up by a floating pin drive center disc. I chose the floating center disc based on recommendations that it would drag less as the clutch begins to wear, allowing me a slightly longer interval for re-shimming the clutch.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215446.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215446.jpg.html)

On top of the drive pins there are shim stacks calibrated from the factory for proper finger height on the clutch diaphragm. As the clutch wears, shims will be removed until either one of the plates are out of spec or the clutch is worn or damaged to the point where it needs to go back to McLeod for a full rebuild.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215527.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215527.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215414.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215414.jpg.html)

I have the strapped pressure plate to keep some of the noise down.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215720.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215720.jpg.html)

I'm using ARP pro series 12pt flywheel bolts to protect the investment p/n 330-2802

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121129_220446.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121129_220446.jpg.html)

Using the standard clutch alignment tool this is all the further the transmission would engage, I thought I could get away with it, but I no matter what I tried I couldn't get it any closer than the last inch. Finally I broke down and bought the Quarter Master 1-5/32" x 26 spline alignment tool. Its under $50 and well worth it to just go ahead and get it if you're going to install a multi-plate clutch.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_212359.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_212359.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_205945.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_205945.jpg.html)

Here's a video for an example of about how I expect it to rev.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VXcMR-ejxsU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[MyblackS13]

2muchboost, thanks, here's my disclaimer before the pics. These were one of the first projects I tig welded, so I overheated them pretty bad when I was welding them. There they are after I finished welding them, before paint.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/20121011_211259.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/20121011_211259.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/20121011_211235.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/20121011_211235.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

With my motor mounts I was able to reuse my aluminum driveshaft from my SR build. I had a new Spicer GM 27 spline slip yoke installed along with some new U-joints and its good to go.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/20121209_212511_zps8eee6b8a.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/20121209_212511_zps8eee6b8a.jpg.html)

Driveshaft length - center to center

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/20121209_212615_zpse55b22d6.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/20121209_212615_zpse55b22d6.jpg.html)

[510erv]

Nice work thinking about running a/n fitting out of my water pump

[2muchboost]

No worries bud....thanks for the pix and seriously amazing work. I am currently working on my LM7-turbo-S14 but the progress is damn slow for me due to work and the weather. I have been tossing around the idea of making my own mounts or using OEM mounts and just modifying the crossmember.

Love the attention to detail btw. You can tell there has been a thought process to each purchase and part selection.

[MyblackS13]

Thanks, I have put a lot of time and thought into every step, I'm about 2-1/2 years in now. For the motor mounts, I like the looks and price of the holley mounts for something off the shelf, for mine I had a shop laser cut some plates and got most of the parts to make 3 sets for about $50. Something like these https://liquidironindustries.com/GM-LS-Motor-Mounts.html or the Car Shop ones http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/86960/2350 that a lot of people use would be a pretty good option too. I have mine documented in autocad, but with the header set-up, I'm not sure if they would work with different manifolds or headers.

[MyblackS13]

While the engine was back out after building the mounts and headers I decided that would be a good time to do some clean up work in the engine bay. First I made a little patch panel for the front core support. I had a little fun with a dimple die while I was at it. I made the panels out of 16ga steel so they would be strong since the front core ties the two frame/unibody rails together. When welding in the panel I decided to try a product I hadn't before. I got a weld through primer, I was a little reluctant to paint where I was about to weld, but that's how its advertised to work. I sprayed the back side of the panel and anywhere I thought I might have trouble spraying after it was welded together. My reluctance seemed to be correct, where ever the primer was my weld didn't want to penetrate until I had it all burnt away. It seems like the trick to get it to work is to paint the part with it, then wire brush it away right in the spot where you're going to weld.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0199.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0199.jpg.html)

Really happy with how the dimple die worked

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0198.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0198.jpg.html)

I had to add a couple dimpled holes where they might be visible, when the car is together.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0208.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/IMAG0208.jpg.html)

Patch in place, Next...this spot was looking pretty gross so my attention was turned to it.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152209.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152209.jpg.html)

Excuse the blurry picture, but you get the idea. There was rust in the former home of the battery tray, an intercooler pipe hole that's too small and in the wrong location for the intake, holes from drilled spot welds, and provisions for a washer fluid tank that's been out of the car for nearly 10 years now. My first problem was no press brake to bend the radius on the panel. So I made a quick and dirty rail for the hydraulic press at work.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121116_182511.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121116_182511.jpg.html)

I used this in conjunction with a piece of 1-1/4" round stock to make a nice radiused corner. Then used my handy dandy card board templates to make my patch panel out of 22ga sheet metal, about the same thickness as the original piece.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152234.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152234.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_214242.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_214242.jpg.html)

After making the panel I cleco pinned and butt weld clamped it in place for weld.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121120_215342.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121120_215342.jpg.html)

Also, I patched some strut tower rust that I had previously repaired with bondo and stitch welded the front of the car. I figured that with the extra torque the LS will provide the front of this car will need all the help it can get. The first steps to stitch welding are scraping out the seam sealer, then wire brush the remaining sealer out.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121031_213527.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121031_213527.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121031_213516.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121031_213516.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184618.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184618.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184640.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184640.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184610.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184610.jpg.html)

Stitch welding is a serious pain, no matter how much you think you've thoroughly cleaned all the bits of rust and seam sealer there will still be some in there. Every time you hit some seam sealer, dirt or rust and pull it into the puddle it burns and makes the puddle pop. You'll have a good run for a few stitches then a few that are terrible where you keep cleaning and trying to get a good weld.

A much easier part was making at attaching subframe rail caps. I plasma cut them then used the dimple die to make the holes look clean and tig welded them in place.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133807.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133807.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133745.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133745.jpg.html)

The next step will be to repair some rust holes I discovered in the frame rails (frail rails). Again sorry about the terrible cell phone picture.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121204_213653.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121204_213653.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

After finding the rust in the rails I took a long break from the project. Needed to decide if the project was still worth it and was contemplating a new shell. Long story short, I decided to stay the course. It was a lot of work.

First I dropped out the subframe and tension rod brackets.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_222408_zpsfe57145f.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_222408_zpsfe57145f.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_223149_zps701e527c.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_223149_zps701e527c.jpg.html)

I've been learning to TIG weld through this build so the welds are far from perfect aesthetically, but I expect them to hold well.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130713_143956_zps50cbf497.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130713_143956_zps50cbf497.jpg.html)

The passenger side was the worst by far, apparently rust stated underneath the undercoating on the firewall along with the frame rail and where moisture gets trapped at the brake line holder

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234602_zps8cd82c4d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234602_zps8cd82c4d.jpg.html)

I welded in spots to give the patch panel some extra bite along with welding around the perimeter

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234633_zps2cecc583.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234633_zps2cecc583.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130719_010437_zpscca8f76a.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130719_010437_zpscca8f76a.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130720_181908_zpsdf9a6750.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130720_181908_zpsdf9a6750.jpg.html)

Passenger side after completion. I used silicon bronze rod on the firewall sections for more flexibility and to control heat input a little more to try to have fewer flare ups inside the car.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130722_235826_zps6c094a99.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130722_235826_zps6c094a99.jpg.html)

On the drivers side I tried to make the repair more flush with less overlap

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130725_005902_zpsfc98639d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130725_005902_zpsfc98639d.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130725_005926_zps9cdb271f.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130725_005926_zps9cdb271f.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130727_215210_zps7945a9ac.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130727_215210_zps7945a9ac.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

While I had the subframe and tension rod brackets out, I went to work on them. I made the tension rod brackets into my own DIY Nismo power brace.

I added a cross bar out of some 1-1/4 x .120wall DOM tubing

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20121212_200301_zps4b342072.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20121212_200301_zps4b342072.jpg.html)

Some braces out of some 16ga, formed, with dimples for some rigidity.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20121212_200317_zpsd3006647.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20121212_200317_zpsd3006647.jpg.html)

I then used my angle iron rail and a bench vice to make some saddle gussets to spread the attachment area of the cross tube.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_003248_zpsde6b9b8d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_003248_zpsde6b9b8d.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_203150_zps49fee221.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_203150_zps49fee221.jpg.html)

Then I sent both parts out for powder, JDM charcoal grey...I was thinking black, then I saw JDM on the card and couldn't help myself.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_165821_zpsdda976e3.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_165821_zpsdda976e3.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

As I've been going through this project I've been getting more and more particular. I always like to do things right, but after a project takes as long as this one has, I want everything I've touched thus far to be as good as I can get it. I pulled the entire front end apart as far as it would go.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_233150_zpsc6b2fc97.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_233150_zpsc6b2fc97.jpg.html)

Cleaned up the wheel wells, I knocked loose a lot of the original undercoating, cleaned everything thoroughly and primed all the bare metal before hitting it with Monstaliner

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_222754_zpsfee0cc2e.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_222754_zpsfee0cc2e.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130817_002609_zpse4e96a20.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130817_002609_zpse4e96a20.jpg.html)

I masked off the areas that I didn't want the build up of the bedliner, then painted them with the engine bay.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_122913_zps4a1ce66c.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_122913_zps4a1ce66c.jpg.html)

Wrapped it up in its own cocoon

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180901_zps77de93ff.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180901_zps77de93ff.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180845_zps5b61584b.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180845_zps5b61584b.jpg.html)

I did two coats of a 2k high build primer, if I were to do it again, I would have done 3 or 4, I expected the paint to be thicker and hide better, but all and all it looks pretty decent for an engine bay.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212319_zpseebd0a46.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212319_zpseebd0a46.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212247_zps3a613013.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212247_zps3a613013.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212348_zps94c6d94f.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212348_zps94c6d94f.jpg.html)

I used a 2k semi gloss black urethane paint for my paint for good durability.

[2muchboost]

I have access to a CNC machine if you wouldnt mind sharing the file...no pressure though if you want to keep them for yourself. I am planning to use the truck manifolds turned backwards since I am going turbo so clearance isnt as big of an issue for me due to this. Cant wait to get home to see the new update pix.

[MyblackS13]

My mounts are pretty far back, about as low as possible and ride on 240sx mounts, you have to notch the weld seam a little for the Fueled Moroso pan to fit. Send over a PM.

[MyblackS13]

After seeing some of the brake booster delete kits I stated weighing the option. I was really interested in the Chase Bays kit, because its one of the more widely used kits in the 240sx world. However after some research I decided that running a single circuit master cylinder for brakes wasn't something that I would do. So I decided I would make my own, along with a pedal with an increased leverage ratio to hopefully make my manual brake conversion more liveable. The end goal is a firm pedal with good modulation, hopefully without having to go too aggressive on the brake pad compound.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_220146_zps37bd580d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_220146_zps37bd580d.jpg.html)

Made two of the master cylinder adapter plates in the CNC with some assistance, it was pretty exciting to push that green button after the program was made.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_171723_zps1df9ac97.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_171723_zps1df9ac97.jpg.html)

Facing my new brake pedal pivot to length in the lathe.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_191340_zps71e1bd75.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_191340_zps71e1bd75.jpg.html)

Brake pedal with a new pivot added 1" below the factory pivot

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_194339_zpsb12c1d10.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_194339_zpsb12c1d10.jpg.html)

We added another hole in the brake bracket as well to keep the same pedal height, keeping the brake push rod going out the same hole in the firewall.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_203934_zpsb81c04fe.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_203934_zpsb81c04fe.jpg.html)

Finished modified pedal on the bottom, the finished product should have about a 5.5:1 pedal ratio in place of the stock 4:1 for boosted brakes. That places my modified pedal right about in the middle of standard car manual brake pedals (5-6:1 ratio).

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_224236_zpsee085d5a.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_224236_zpsee085d5a.jpg.html)

My super fancy brake push rod. I might make something a little prettier without the length adjustment after some testing.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130827_211327_zps0050e6cd.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130827_211327_zps0050e6cd.jpg.html)

I added some stainless steel M8 thread inserts into the master cylinder adapter to make it easier to remove the master cylinder so I can make brake rod adjustments without too much drama while setting things up.
For the brake lines I ran all new. I chose NiCopp for the corrosion resistance and formability. NiCopp lines are supposed to combine the corrosion resistance of stainless with easier forming than mild steel. Its a Nickel, Copper alloy, and somehow you gain resistance to fatigue and work hardening from the Nickel in the alloy over plain Copper (which is a no no in automotive braking systems). The lines in a 240 are 3/16" OD with M10 x 1.0 inverted flare fittings. The NiCopp bent surprisingly easy, I used a basic bend tool and some bend pliers for some of the tighter stuff and occasionally a 3/8 socket.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130827_211243_zpsa013556f.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130827_211243_zpsa013556f.jpg.html)

The factory master cylinder doesn't have a boot since it typically goes on the front of a brake booster. Since its going to be poking through the firewall right above my feet now it probably should have one.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130826_194252_zps39e69ba3.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130826_194252_zps39e69ba3.jpg.html)

To mount the brake lines to the firewall I'm using some Earl's aluminum line clamps. I drilled the threads out of a couple so that I could run the bolt through to some closed end rivnuts I installed into the firewall.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130828_214145_zps96a9a157.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130828_214145_zps96a9a157.jpg.html)

I equally spaced two #10-32 rivnuts into the firewall just below the pinch seam for a nice low profile clean place to run the brake lines.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130831_224837_zpsdb0314a6.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130831_224837_zpsdb0314a6.jpg.html)

Shiny, new NiCopp brake lines all bent up.

[drscooper]

Goodness, Its nice to see another DYI thread thats as in detail as this. Keep up the good work itll feel great once you get it running. In for more updates.

[MyblackS13]

Goodness, Its nice to see another DYI thread thats as in detail as this. Keep up the good work itll feel great once you get it running. In for more updates.

Thanks, I appreciate the positive feedback. Here's another update, I'm trying to do about one a day until I catch up to my blog, then I'm going to update them both at the same time as I get more done.

When I put the engine back in it was pretty drama free, a little nerve racking with the fresh powder on the cross member and fresh paint on the firewall but there really weren't too many problems, aside from needing to get a bigger hammer because the tunnel wasn't beaten in far enough. I ended up getting a 2lb Nupla Drilling Hammer, it was the perfect tool for the job, the big Harbor Freight compthane just wasn't getting it done. A reminder for others, make sure to smash that tunnel in really good in for clearance, if there is any questions, hit it again.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_002148_zpsb5bacd3a.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_002148_zpsb5bacd3a.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_002424_zpsb7a2a5a6.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_002424_zpsb7a2a5a6.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_000957_zps4256faa7.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_000957_zps4256faa7.jpg.html)

I even got my wife in on the action this time. She was such a good sport, she took the usual first timer spot under the car to guide the tranny into the tunnel.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_182318_zps0a3f09b7.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_182318_zps0a3f09b7.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211616_zps302774c0.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211616_zps302774c0.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211649_zps40415d29.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211649_zps40415d29.jpg.html)

If you want to run no accessories and a 10% under drive pulley like I did, these are the parts you need to do it. You have to swap the smooth idler pulley on the alternator for a ribbed idler (same one used on the tensioner) Dayco p/n 89015. The belt that fit the best was a Dayco p/n 5060540 54" - 6 rib. One thing with this belt routing I had to do a little work on the alternator bracket. I had to countersink for flathead bolts.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131212_185223_zps3a17f7f3.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131212_185223_zps3a17f7f3.jpg.html)

Make sure to only countersink the sleeve so that it will still somewhat do its job and slide to the alternator.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131217_215833_zps8830f290.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131217_215833_zps8830f290.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131217_215850_zps6bf26dc7.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131217_215850_zps6bf26dc7.jpg.html)

[MyblackS13]

While having everything out, I've cleaned up the suspension. The tie rod ends and ball joints were old and tired with torn boots and were develop some play and just looked like they were past their prime, those were removed in favor of Tein hard rods. I replaced the front lower control arms with stock replacements from MOOG. The arms feel thick and solid like the OEM originals and the grease zerk fittings are a nice plus for servicability. The OEM tension rods were so stuck that I had to cut them out, those were pitched for some nice adjustable SPL Parts Titanium Tension Arms. While I was at it, I also picked up some Rust Olem satin bronze metallic paint, sand blasted and repainted my front knuckles.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130903_212935_zps18d7eb86.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130903_212935_zps18d7eb86.jpg.html)

When sandblasting the knucles I made sure to duct tape the spindle surface and block off the tapered holes to protect the smooth machined surfaces of the knuckle. Then I finished cleaning them with a wire brush and laquer thinner to prep them for paint. I masked off the same surfaces again for paint along with the brake caliper mounting surfaces.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130903_231745_zpsb1b5461e.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130903_231745_zpsb1b5461e.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130910_225128_zps65cb4528.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130910_225128_zps65cb4528.jpg.html)

I picked up the SPL V3 tension rods,the new blue titanium hardware really sets them off.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130910_221617_zpsbcfa2058.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130910_221617_zpsbcfa2058.jpg.html)

There it is back together with my Cusco Zero2-R coils. I cleaned them up to look nice, but I'm not sure how much longer I will run them. I picked them up used from Ebay, they've handled really nice since I set them up but they are starting to leak a little. I don't think the previous owner's settings did them any favors, they came preloaded over an inch and the spring would bottom out on the smallest of bumps, I seriously thought my dash was going to pop out or my windshield was going to break, it was brutal. I'm guessing they didn't like the 5&7K spring rates. When these give up I'm probably going to be shopping for some new coils, I'm leaning towards Fortune Auto 500's at the moment.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_180047_zps2623d758.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_180047_zps2623d758.jpg.html)

New Tein hard tie rods and new boots to go with them.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_221027_zps0c6661c5.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_221027_zps0c6661c5.jpg.html)

I sub assembled and loosely set the lengths of the tie rods before installing them.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220423_zpsa6715f08.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220423_zpsa6715f08.jpg.html)

Two wrenches really helped the process of removing the old inner tie rods. I used a 1-1/4" on the tie rod, not quite the right size, but it worked (30mm probably is closer) and I think it was a 13/16 to help keep the rack from twisting in its mounts and just to support it a little more to avoid damage.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_225244_zpsf26c4d0d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_225244_zpsf26c4d0d.jpg.html)

I went ahead and used the supplied spacers with the Teins, since the spacer eliminates the OEM lock plate I used Locktite Red high strength thread locker. Hopefully I never need to take them off, but it should keep them from removing themselves at an inopportune time, like when I'm driving the car on the highway.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220435_zps20edf83d.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220435_zps20edf83d.jpg.html)

If you look closely at the steering rack shaft you can see the small flats that you can use to help support it. The drivers side really needed it, it looked like there was already thread locker on that side and the wrench turned extremely hard all the way out, with no damaged threads (checked that first)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130915_021308_zpsa199ecfe.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130915_021308_zpsa199ecfe.jpg.html)

I had to take a picture of the underbody, who knows how long it will stay that clean.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130916_230511_zps56b96d08.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130916_230511_zps56b96d08.jpg.html)

Through this process I've replaced every rusty fastener that I've came across, these brake line securing tabs as well.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130916_230059_zpsfe9aeb0b.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130916_230059_zpsfe9aeb0b.jpg.html)

[ferrariowner123]

Nice build, awesome to see some much progress!

Keep it going!!

-Kyle

[MyblackS13]

Plumbing up the fuel system was pretty uneventful. One of my first steps was to clean the dirty injectors that had been sitting for a couple years at this point. I built a small injector driver tool with a project box from Radio Shack, momentary swtich, led (indicator light), and an injector clip.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_223900_zpsfebf913f.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_223900_zpsfebf913f.jpg.html)

It was a good thing I did this, a couple injectors wouldn't open at all until soaked. I had them all consistently working by the end. I would connect a neoprene rubber vacuum plug with a small hole poked in it for the straw on some carb cleaner, pressurize with the cleaner, then click the button until I had good, clear flow and a decent spray pattern. Nothing scientific, just went until each one looked like the last.

The next step, I installed up the Holley Fuel rails PN # 534-210. They were one of the more economical, high quality options with o-ring fittings (vs pipe threads) and a complete set of fittings.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_223828_zps4ab02c3e.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_223828_zps4ab02c3e.jpg.html)

One of the tougher parts was deciding where to put the filter pressure regulator unit. I was considering placing it above the subframe like Pstl_Pete's LS3 hatch build, but I couldn't help but wonder what will happen if I get traction and break one of the still stock axles, I would rather just replace a hose than the whole unit, and the rear subframe and axles will be a later project.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_223759_zps27aad4d2.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_223759_zps27aad4d2.jpg.html)

I ran the line just beneath the brake line with some cushion clamps and covered the line in fire sleeve to try to protect the rail from the -6 stainless steel line.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_223812_zps72dc4fe2.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_223812_zps72dc4fe2.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131217_215930_zpsda4fc2c2.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131217_215930_zpsda4fc2c2.jpg.html)

I bought this Koul Tools -6 assembly tool towards the end of making the -6 lines after struggling to put a few fittings on, I always have struggled with the smaller sizes. I wish I would have bought it sooner, it made it so much easier. It's well worth the money if you put very many fittings together, stabbing your fingers with little stainless wires gets old after a while.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131217_202559_zpsf33d8357.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131217_202559_zpsf33d8357.jpg.html)

I used one of the Summit -6 to 1/8 fuel pressure gauge fittings with a little fuel pressure gauge I had sitting in my tool box so that I could keep an eye on fuel pressure.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_232652_zps7ae5d41c.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_232652_zps7ae5d41c.jpg.html)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20131217_215900_zps330735ad.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20131217_215900_zps330735ad.jpg.html)

[DET240SX]

Subscribed!! Awesome build!

[Chris Yo]

First of all, I love your build.

Secondly, where did you get the brake line fittings? The m10x1 inverted flare ones. Do you have a link?

Thanks and keep up the great progress.

[MyblackS13]

First of all, I love your build.

Secondly, where did you get the brake line fittings? The m10x1 inverted flare ones. Do you have a link?

Thanks and keep up the great progress.

The m10x1.0 flare nuts on the brake lines came from Autozone. Most of the rest came from Summit.

[JRusty15]

Subscribed! Great work you got going on here man! Looks like you have access to all the tools you need and the skill to get this project going. Any advice to the more novice builders out there (like myself) that want to tackle an LSx swap some day?

[MyblackS13]

Subscribed! Great work you got going on here man! Looks like you have access to all the tools you need and the skill to get this project going. Any advice to the more novice builders out there (like myself) that want to tackle an LSx swap some day?
Thanks for the compliment, I'm no expert, but here's what I can say. Good tools are a must, good friends are a big help when you're getting the ball rolling, changing big parts, when things get frustrating, ect. Whenever you take something apart, clean, or replace everything that is hard to get to. Take everything apart until you understand it inside and out. Take your time, do things right, and only use cash, you'll be much happier that way.

[JRusty15]

Any updates?

[evildead138]

Awesome Build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MyblackS13]

Sorry about the lack of updates. In between my typical 50-60hr work week, wife and kid, I bought a new (to me) house, sold the old one, and this little beast joined the family.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140312_172607_zpsa277ee33.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140312_172607_zpsa277ee33.jpg.html)

So, I've been lacking time to work on the car a long with time to update my build thread. The clutch is now connected. I was recommended to stay with the stock 5/8" master cylinder with my clutch to give more feel with its short engagement. To connect I used a Russels, 640481, banjo fitting (m10 to -4), Earls, 997517ERL, M10 banjo bolt, and a McLeod Quick disconnect line. I can't remember the exact length, but I'm thinking it started as a 24" or 30" and I had it cut to fit with a new crimp on -4 fitting by TFE, a local hydraulics/hose shop.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_232544_zpse29dacd0.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_232544_zpse29dacd0.jpg.html)

I think most guys skip the quick disconnect due to lack of tunnel clearance, but mine seemed to snap in ok.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140310_232603_zps7dcdb71e.jpg (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/20140310_232603_zps7dcdb71e.jpg.html)

The fire sleeve is mostly to save the firewall from the abrasive SS braid.

[MyblackS13]

So, I finally managed to get some time to dive back into the project. The big task was wiring. As much as I love having all parts of the car done my way, wiring gets a little tedious and overwhelming, especially when you stack up an overall clean-up, fuse box and relay tuck, and a new engine.
For the clean-up, I pulled the interior, and began removing all the wires for the power seat belts. I removed all of the control wires, but left the power wires that go to the center console area and tied those into a terminal block.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140928_185318_zpsmqlcoi4i.jpg

That gives me quick and easy access for future electronics. The wires that I left give me a 10A fused accessory switched, and a 30A accessory switched on a breaker, and I also tied in a ground wire that went to the seatbelt control. From there I removed the wires to the door switches and the seatelt motors, then rewrapped the wire with braided split loom.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140927_211202_zpsnuyd0hdy.jpg

I also redid my main battery cable, I saw a little insulation from the wire scraped where it passed under the seat brace on the floor, so I used a piece of pex as a conduit for a little extra protection.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140927_211014_zpskzk44hta.jpg

I also went though the dash wiring, removing the wires for the flip up switch, aside for one power, illumination and another wire to trip a relay for fog lights in the future. I also removed the consult port and the headlight timer wiring.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140924_005215_zpsuddjbiun.jpg

I had a little pile, trying to make more room for the main, fuse/relay box from the engine bay. To make that fit, first pulled all the wires for the flip-ups and air conditioning. I then put the horn relay and a relay for my fog lights into the main box, in place of the additional headlight retractor relay and the ac relay. Also pulled the wire for the 30a fusible link for the ac to be used for my cooling fan (it had an inline 30a fuse). I shortened all the wires to place the box into my glove box space.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140912_223527_zpsdqxibnpw.jpg

Since the SMJ isn't the plug for all the wires forward of the firewall, I made a seperate harness for what was left in the front of the car (lights, signals, horn) I use a deutsch dtm 12 pin, using every pin.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140912_223537_zpsuaoxbwqj.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140916_233612_zpsexhew6ed.jpg

I love the deutsch connectors, they use solid pins and let me use the crimper I bought for my engine wiring harness.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140912_224442_zpsohvdwror.jpg

Its a DMC mil-spec crimper, you have a piece that sets the depth for a certain pin type, so all you have to do is insert the wire into the pin, put the pin into the crimper until it stops, then squeeze and its a perfect crimp every time.
Also anything that came out I made sure to remove completely, so I had to do a little de-pinning on the SMJ connector. The small ones were a little tricky, I had to grind down a small precision screw driver to get them out. Also you have to make sure to remove the retainers from the sides of the plug.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140405_160054_zpse9247e85.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140405_160046_zpsddc4d0ee.jpg

For the fuse box mounting I used piece of 1/8" kydex sheet that I laid out using a cardboard template, cut out, and formed it using some wide sheet metal pliers and a heat gun. I cut the mounting tabs off the fuse box flush and drilled some holes to mount to the kydex with zip ties.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141005_231716_zpsctzexpmy.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141006_003712_zpsi04tenew.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141006_003719_zpspcq2xjtt.jpg

The top two holes bolt to the dash bar where the ac box once mounted.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141008_004556_zpsfh8toc1d.jpg

I also added another terminal block, using the constant power, accessory power, and illumination circuits for ease of future gauge wiring.

[MyblackS13]

The engine wiring was a little easier than the tuck. I started with a SSP wiring stand alone harness, then proceeded to go through it to make it the way I wanted, and it had a few short comings that I addressed while going through it. All of the power wires were tied together and the instructions said to tie them into the ignition switched ecu power, I'm not sure if this would have worked, but its different from all the other harnesses available and stock gm wiring. To remedy I separated each bank, the o2 sensors, and the ecu power wires into their own seperate fuses, I kept as much as possible in the original fuse box, but I still needed to use an external fuse block for these three, they each got a 10a fuse. I reused the ecu relay and fuse from the fuse box. To reuse the ecu relay I had to rewire its trigger with one going to ignition switched and the other to ground, from the wiring diagrams it appears that it was ground switched from the Nissan ECU. Also the fuel pump relay needed to be rewired because the LS1 ecu switches it on with a power signal and the Nissan ecu uses a ground signal. Do it at your own risk, but if you want to do something like this, you take the solid red constant power wire from the ecu relay trigger and run it to ground and then tie the red/black stripe wire from the brown connector to the black/red stripe ign switched wire on the grey connector. The fuel pump relay is a little simpler, you take the black/white stripe wire from the trigger side and ground it.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/s13_s14_ecu_zpsl765wud7.jpeg

This picture is reference only, my wires weren't quite the same, so you need your year factory service manual.

For cleanliness I integrated the coilpack wiring harness.
In progress pics

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141013_001922_zpsm3cpmdgf.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141013_234052_zpsrcn8wrad.jpg

I cut the harness and used a 61 pin mil-spec circular connector at the firewall, utilizing the nearest ac hole to the engine.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141010_194619_zpsnzgkptwm.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140403_220153_zpsf6c5ca35.jpg

To wire these you need to have a proper sized dmc crimper, or similar mil-spec tool.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141019_022242_zpsuiblv1tr.jpg

Its a good idea atleast make a wiring sheet and number the wires if you're going to tackle one of these plugs otherwise things could get real bad real fast. For mine I numbered the wires, then made an excel sheet that says the wire color and where each wire goes; engine side, ecu pin, and circular connector pin.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141019_152155_zpsnuzyfiox.jpg

I then covered it all in a mix of flame retardant tech flex, dr-25, and 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink. This part was very time consuming and challenging. Some connectors can just be de-pinned, while others (like injector plugs) the pins front load and de-pinning does not remove the plastic plug, so you either need to cut them off and re-do them or slide the covering on from the other side if possible.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140923_222839_zpsftlqrjuq.jpg

Its a little difficult to see, but here is the finished product on the engine.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141023_020655_zpsnqpd6tvs.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141023_020621_zps3vtuq7f9.jpg

I'll have to get some better pictures in daylight once it comes back from the fab shop building the exhaust.

[a3dicbillygoat]

pretty sweet

[status_ryan]

The more I see these ls builds, the more I want to sell off my sr and go ls. In for further updates. Bay looks retarded clean.

[2muchboost]

Killer job on the wiring. Can't wait to see more progress.

[PoorMans180SX]

I tip my hat to you good sir! Splendid job so far.

[MyblackS13]

Thanks everyone for the compliments, here's some more info and updates.
Radiator set-up, for this I reused my old C&R Racing radiator. It was a SR20 set-up so the upper hose was on the drivers side, to work best with the LS I had it moved. I had the neck cut off and blocked, then reused the SR20 upper hose, attached it to the water pump, clocked it until it met the upper tank and marked center for it to be reattached. I then marked the location for a 1/8" NPT half coupling to be welded in for the steam vent.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141028_002305_zpsfid8ofhq.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141028_002336_zpsqhbtf9ul.jpg

For the lower hose I spent a little time searching forums until I was able to find some part numbers.
Napa:
8400 Hose
900 Reducer

Gates:
21710 Hose
26390 Reducer

My closest parts store is Advanced, they cross referenced those numbers to a Dayco P/N 71428.

Here's what it looks like from the store.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141004_225121_zpsjxd0sevn.jpg

Then, measure once, cut twice or something like that, and here's what I ended up with to make it fit right.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141004_230614_zpsqh7ea27t.jpg

[MyblackS13]

For the exhaust I decided to go custom stainless from a near by race shop. I dropped off a pile of parts and let them know how I wanted it routed and let them handle the rest. Its a 2.5" Y-Pipe set-up, to a 3.5" single. I used all V-band connections with Vibrant flex couplings to protect the headers and an o2 bung on the passenger side near the tail of the transmission for a wideband sensor.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141026_142453_zpsmleehue3.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141026_142502_zpshb4wmgyr.jpg

The muffler is a Borla XR-1 with a 5" slash cut tip welded to the outside of the canister. The sound at idle is fairly loud but mellow and when you crack it open it gets loud, like something you feel. I'm going to try to get some running videos up by the weekend.

[MyblackS13]

I'm still doing a bit of trouble shooting to get everything running right, I'm having some hard starting and high/hunting idle issues that seem to be related to the TPS giving an intermittent signal, same with the cam sensor and, the engine temp sensor reading 160 even when the engine is cold. I thought that the ect sensor had failed, but I checked it with a multimeter and its good. Next step is tracing the wires for each of the sensors that are acting up. I've driven the car a few times, it pulls really hard, but with the idle randomly pulling up to 2 - 3k without warning or a real consistent reason seems a little dangerous, and hard on the clutch on starts, so its in the garage until I get the issues figured out.

Here's a video of the car running. The sound clips out pretty bad when I rev.

k_aZ8pAS-BI

[Rusker]

Awesome build!

[Beas]

I want to change up my exhaust setup to something more similar to yours. probably 3" to 4" single. how is it for around town driving? obviously loud, but annoying? video!

[Big Zee]

Yay!! another Dustin with a coupe on the site!

love the build so far! keep up the great work :D

[MyblackS13]

Thanks for the positive feedback. Beas, I like loud exhaust, it doesn't seem a whole lot quieter than the open headers to be honest, but it took out quite a bit of the irritating droning. I haven't driven it a lot yet, haven't had enough time to completely figure out the idle/running issues, and I still have a lot of the interior out, but it seems fairly reasonable when it's driven gently. I'm going to try knocking out some more trouble shooting tomorrow and hopefully I can get some more driving vids up before it starts snowing. One thing about 4" though, its probably going to be a really tight fit and start to effect ground clearance. I figure if its too loud you can always add resonators in the y-pipe.

[JulianC]

Hey, quick question. I run the GTO oil pan and it sits too far forward. Was wondering which Moroso pan you use and if you had any pictures of the steering rack and crossmember clearance. I'm nervous to pick a pan and not have enough clearance to move my steering rack mounting points forward. Thanks!

[OBEEWON]

This is looking nice. That exhaust is good.

[MyblackS13]

JulianC, my pan sits pertty close, I set it at about 3/16" - 1/4" using the Fueled Racing Moroso pan. I don't think I have any pictures with the right angle to see what you're looking for. My Mounts are custom too so I'm not sure if clearance would be the same on the kits that are available. I tried to stuff my engine as low and far back as possible, so my clearance is tight.

[MyblackS13]

No updates in a while, I've finally had a little time to work on the car and make some more progress. At the last update I was having a handful of running and drive ability issues with my swap. I pulled the codes with Torque on my phone and came up with a few codes to give me a little direction.

P0102 MAF low frequency....I don't have one and apparently when my baseline tune was done he missed that note.

P0122 TPS intermittent low voltage - caused hanging idle

P0342 Cam Position Sensor low voltage - caused hard starting

P0118 ECT Sensor high voltage - probably didn't help any with the starting 160 degree reading on scan tool no matter the actual temp.

The first issue I decided to tackle was a high, hanging idle because it was preventing me from driving the car. Here's what it was doing.

kaRuJajjyP0

I was sure that there were no vacuum leaks, turns out I was wrong, I pulled the manifold to install new gaskets because those were among the very few I didn't replace. While the manifold was out I discovered that the cheap parts store rubber cap I had used to cap the brake booster line had split down the middle. And I completely missed a small (about 6mm) opening under the MAP on the back of the manifold, but we're not going to talk about that one. After replacing the caps with EPDM rubber caps from McMaster Carr the issue was nearly solved. The hanging, not returning to proper idle, turned out to be caused by a faulty TPS sensor, another part I had went cheap on with some no name ebay part, I replaced it with an OEM AC Delco part and that problem has been solved.

The next most important problem I was having was the hard starting. I had to break out my firewall plug wiring chart for this one. I started tracing wires on all sensors affected by the codes back to the PCM plug. It turned out that my 12v power for my cam sensor somehow was switched for the 5v ECT power (late night wiring session), I switched those two at the plug and now it starts much more easily and I have a proper temperature reading. That let me finally get my hot mess of a car out of the garage for a little driving and a car wash.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150718_042629_zpsazlwswt7.jpg

After a little driving I noticed that the car really struggled with hot starts, back on the stands it went. I pulled the starter and took it into autozone to test, to my surprise it kept passing. I had them test it like 10 times in a row to attempt to heat soak it a little to see if that would cause it to fail, no luck. While it was out I went ahead and heat wrapped it for good measure.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/b39b6fef-d17a-49d9-ac53-b5159e5e0747_zpshobf1m4h.jpg

After a little internet research, I found that a lot of people with ls1's have the same trouble with odyssey pc680's when they're mounted in the trunk, but not under the hood, due to the extra wire length. Then the search was on for something that I could run in the trunk without a sealed box so I could keep a similar set-up. That limited me to sealed AGM batteries, most of what I was finding was designed to be used in motorcycles and atvs. I finally found something that looked like it would work, a Total Power TP1200, its designed for sand cars and race cars, just a little larger than a Harley battery (deka ext30) and claims 700CCA and 1200amps. So I ordered one along with their fabricated battery bracket and installed it in my trunk.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150729_235451_zpspgek5cpj.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150730_193512_zpscwsl0dmr.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150805_010149_zpshwvkihmu.jpg

[JRusty15]

I missed reading about this car. Glad to see a bit of an update!

[MyblackS13]

Also while under the car I went after a few transmissions issues. First was the lack of a flywheel dust shield. For that I installed the Canton LS1 - T56 dust shield.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150726_213610_zpsq0gmf9aa.jpg

I had to do some minor trimming to clear my headers (I didn't want to pull the driver's side, otherwise it would have fit there) and one bolt on the Moroso pan. Sorry about the super close pic, my jack doesn't go really high so it was a little snug under there.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150727_000154_zpsum1aoufk.jpg

Another problem was that the stock reverse switch socket was nearly touching the tunnel, I couldn't plug in, or unplug them without loosening the trans mount. I did a little searching to see if there was a better solution and came across others using the reverse switch from a t56 equipped mustang. Its a Motorcraft SW-5857, it adds a little right angle wire pigtail instead of a straight in plug adding a ton of clearance.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150725_224521_zpseoif5yda.jpg

Another issue I had was the reverse lock-out when I was building the harness I had read about difficulties with the reverse lock-out and opted to not wire it and try to come up with my own solution. My first solution was to remove the solenoid, replace it with a M20x1.5 plug and install a stiffer spring behind the plunger.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140317_223834_zpsef0fabaa.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20140317_224903_zps9c643bc9.jpg

That didn't work so well, it was still too easy to hit reverse instead of 5th and I didn't really want the feel of a much stiffer spring, so I came up with another solution. I wanted it to feel more like a detent and have more of an initial break to an easy push so it would be obvious if you're about to go into reverse. I took some measurements and started in SolidWorks.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141112_174808_zps9t3rvmjk.jpg

I tweaked the design a little bit and ended up with this.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150325_184604_zpsvnuk6yjg.jpg

Here it is next to the stock part, minus solenoid.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150726_225207_zpsuth4oxqm.jpg

And in the car, it gained a lot of tunnel clearance, more than I needed, but it probably would work even better on cars with even tighter transmission tunnels.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150726_230343_zpsfexkgevv.jpg

Here's how it works, kinda hard to tell without actually feeling it, but the video should get the idea across. Pretty pumped that my idea/prototype worked as expected.

TwQo6tbC0No

[C. Anderson]

Nice build! Where did you get the mil-spec connector and pins?

[Mitsubayati]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get all of your electrical connectors and tools? How much was that Mil-spec connector?

[MyblackS13]

Thanks, here's the places I can remember getting wiring stuff from:
Pro Wire USA - the circular connector, dr-25, and some of the Deutsch connectors.
Wire care - Tech flex FR and some more Deutsch connectors and some hanger tabs for them.
Waytek and Del City - some terminals, terminal blocks, and adhesive lined heat shrink.
Summit and Jegs - braided split loom and heat shrink fabric sleeve (Jegs only on that one).
Wire Barn - assorted colors of automotive wire.
Ebay - DMC crimper and terminal holder/stop for it.
Menards - wire tags, terminal block, and crimper for stamped terminals/pins.
McMaster Carr - Teflon jacketed wire for my alternator and an assortment of mil-spec wire.

I had around $160 in the connector IIRC with the boot adapters and heat shrink boots.

[MyblackS13]

No updates in a while, here's what I've been up to on the car:
1. Driving it some more to make sure my wiring wasn't going to burst into flames before installing the dash.
2. Added backing plates to my Aerocatches
3. Fixed Reverse lights
4. Cleaned up the wire tuck some more
5. Mounted the PCM
6. Connected CEL
7. Installed pipe from blower to heater core
8. Sealed around the shift boot
9. Installed dash

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150821_225435_zpsyjepvk1t.jpg

After seeing a picture on the NRR forum of the aftermath of Aerocatches pulling through a hood, and seeing my hood bounce quite a bit on the highway, I decided I needed to install the backer plates on my Aerocatches.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150813_235552_zpsgpwtmva3.jpg

I don't have any pics of the installation because it was pretty simple, I just had to make sure the second layer of hood was just open enough to allow the backer to fit. At some point I would like to either bond the two layers of hood or cap the bottom layer over the bottom of the latch to offer a little more pull though protection. Its probably an overkill but I've had a hood come up before and its no joke, even a low speeds.

The reverse lights were constantly on since I did the swap, my initial solution was to just pull the bulbs since it wasn't stopping me from driving the car. I ended up first pulling all the fuses for the constant hot wires that went to the back of the car that they could have been shorted to. Things like the trunk light, dome light, and seat belt power wires (which I retained for future wiring). None of them helped then a friend that was helping saw that the horn signal wire was the same color as the reverse light wire, so we checked it for continuity...it was the problem. It is the same color (green/white) as the reverse lights, same gauge and goes to the under hood fuse box (now under my dash). I should have been paying more attention when shortening all the wires, but it was a pretty easy fix, I swapped the two a few inches from the SMJ and they worked. If anyone is doing the LS swap, its good to know that the reverse lights are on the E17 plug (green/white to lights and green/blue from fused power).

For the wiring clean up I went from this hot mess.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20141028_004754_zpszkww5g6l.jpg

To this, still a work in process, but much better IMHO.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150909_210218_zpslfcbsrab.jpg

I eliminated the rest of the plugs that were coming out of the fuse box that I'm not using. Its narrowed down to the F8 and F10 plugs, a two pin Deutsch DTM, replacing the E17, since I only need the reverse lights from that connector, and a two pin Deutsch DTP for my engine cooling fan wires (pulling power from the AC fan 30a fuse)
Moving the PCM unfortunately wasn't quite that easy. It took me a while to figure out the orientation that would allow the PCM to be mounted on the passenger side kick panel and had to ditch the mounting bracket that I had originally purchased since it was designed to hold the PCM with the flat size up there was no way it would fit. I replaced it with a 3/8" aluminum piece that I milled to suit.

Started with this.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150826_190219_zpsvz4c1jwc.jpg

Made this surround bracket, it bolts to the PCM using the cover bolt holes on the computer.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150827_002135_zpscsm1tjzo.jpg

The next problem that caused is that the wires were coming out of the PCM connectors in the wrong direction, they were going to come out tight to, towards the floor. Luckily I had enough wire to switch them around, not so luckily I had to completely de-pin and redo the circular connector to make everything come together right.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150906_035057_zpsbcffmek8.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150906_044421_zpscgwdtx1r.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150906_143846_zpslmvuk10p.jpg

While I was in there I found the brown wire on the upper LH side of the brown connector, it was a 10a fused, ignition switched wire used for sensors on the Nissan motors. It made for a perfect power source for my PLX SM-AFR wideband controller. I ended up adding an additional 6 pin Deutsch DTM connector for wideband power, a fan override switch, speedo input, speedo output (DD converter box), and my OBD II signal wire. I also connected the CEL output from the LS PCM to the dash, using the red wire on the F1 plug, my cluster did not have the light in position, but it goes on the left side of the cluster to the far right of the idiot light row that includes the fuel light and washer fluid level. Some cars will be equipped originally, others like mine weren't.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150907_235513_zps7poaty0w.jpg

After the wiring issues I had last time I sat down with my plug wiring diagram and the PCM plug wiring diagram and sounded 100% of the wires to be sure I wasn't going to have any problems.

Then I test fit probably one of the ugliest AC delete boxes ever made.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150905_020603_zpsomsralnq.jpg

I made it with two flanges made from aluminum flashing material, stretched speaker cloth between the two and then fiberglassed over the top. My fiberglass work could definitely use some work, but it did gain me a ton of wiring clearance over the factory AC box allowing me to keep my vent function (I still need to figure out heater core connections, I have some ideas, but that job is for a later date)
Then made a new kydex bracket to drop the fuse box down a little so it could be clearly seen with the dash installed, and modified the side of the fuse box slightly and the packard (painless) fuse block to allow them to snap together, seen in the after picture shown above.
To fill the gap around the MGW shifter to the Nissan boot, I had to make a plastic sleeve that fit around the shifter with a very snug slip to very light press fit. Shown with the PCM bracket.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150828_181231_zps2hsmg6ym.jpg

The shifter to floor boot gap.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150828_183118_zpsu9yhhfy1.jpg

Part installed.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150828_183253_zpsqeemkx1e.jpg

And finally installed the dash and made a temporary OBD II plug mounting bracket from some aluminum.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150912_022715_zpscuff317t.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150913_164916_zpsdwrwsgun.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20150913_170740_zpsqn9arqjm.jpg

The next items on my list:
Finalize the location for my battery power distribution block. I'm not sure I want the unfused battery cable running through my car and connecting on the interior side of the firewall the way it is now.

Finalize the home for my Speedhut gauges that are in the old stereo location. They may stay there or I might make some brackets to move the hvac controller down and the gauges up into its place.

Get some wider stickier tires and probably some new wheels to go with them, have to decide, which wheels and what combination I want to use. I'm inbetween:
Front and Rear 255/40/17's square (lots of tire options)
Front 245/40/17 - Rear 275/40/17
Front and Rear 275/40/17 square
Front 275/40/17 - Rear 315/35/17
Front and rear 285/30/18 (again lots of options)

The car has very little traction in 2nd and 3rd gear with pretty much anything over 3/4 throttle, but I don't think the older, 400 treadwear, falken 452 tires that are currently on it are helping anything.

I'm still trying to decide if I want to stick with the current widebody, go back to stock width or do some rocket bunny flares and side skirts. This will have a lot to do with how aggressive I can get with my wheel and tire fitment.

[MyblackS13]

I've done a few little things to the car recently. I've added a grille/finisher piece.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_232056_zpsmnp6q3kw.jpg

Its one I've had around since I did the body kit, like 10 years ago, I've put off installing it because its not exactly a direct fit. Since I may be replacing it, I didn't want to go to too much work with paint prep, so I pastidipped it black. To get it in I made some 1" square washer/spacers out of kydex to space it up about 1/4" to keep it off the bumper, then it had to provisions to attach to the upper points, so I made some little angle tabs out of some 16ga sheet aluminum, riveted them to the piece and screwed them to the headlights with square nylon snap in nuts. I still need to plastidip the brackets for a little more finished look.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_232226_zpsc56wb8wa.jpg

I also finished wiring in the fog lights, when I did the wire tuck I set a fog light relay into the fusebox, I ended up pulling the switched power for the relay from the flip up headlight switch.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_232251_zpsfcyx34oo.jpg

I've given the haltron fire extinguisher a temporary home attached to one of the supports for the rear seat surround plastic, where it will stay until I reinstall, the rear panels.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_231420_zpsbrnm2xfh.jpg

In the trunk I've added covers to the battery terminals and used insulated clamps to try to more cleanly route the positive cable.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_231545_zpsuzpmylam.jpg

I also want to make a cleaner 3rd brake light set-up that doesn't look like ET poking his head up over the back seat. I'm experimenting with some angled plastic channel and led strip lights. I have some lights from autozone that are pretty bright, but were pre-cut into two 12" strips, I'm probably going to order one 24" strip and solder in the leads myself for a cleaner install. But here's the mock-up taped into position.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151024_235142_zps2shsn6bz.jpg

I've been enjoying the car a little lately too and took some pictures with a buddy.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_182743_zpswcbj1xsk.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20151025_183331_zps7tl1iyha.jpg

And made a short in car action cam video.

uULwfVpZaEE

[2muchboost]

Absolutely love this build. Great attention to detail bud. How are you liking the clutch? My only gripe right now with my LS is the SPEC 3 so I am looking at alternatives.

[M3Too]

nice.. i just picked up an E-Rod LS3 and this thread made me realize that I'm in it for the long haul.


The attention to detail and the powdercoating of the engine bay parts was just satisfying to look at.

amazing.

[MyblackS13]

Small update to the build. I've been neglecting this thread for a while. Since the last post I've made a couple little changes on the car.

First, I made a back seat delete panel.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20151110_231948_zpsxvz7kby7.jpg

Started with a cardboard template, trimmed and fit until I was satisfied to move onto the material of choice. I used .080 Kydex plastic (like gun holsters) because it's light weight, textured to blend well with the other interior plastic, and pretty easy to form with a heat gun. I used my cardboard template to trace and layout approximate bend locations onto the Kydex.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160404_225211_zpsultoj2jb.jpg

I to get the bend at the bottom i bar clamped the plastic to a piece of plywood and use it kind of like a brake while heating the plastic. Mounting it I used some finished fender washers off ebay and made some aluminum blind mounting tabs for the back side to hook the flange of the seat pass through.

The next change was mounting a Cobra Imola Pro Fit racing seat. A big plus on the Imola is that I got to sit in one at the PRI show, see the quality up close, and make sure the seat would fit me right before buying one. The stock seats aren't very supportive and the race seat was a nice chainge.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160116_210442_zpslo0fckef.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160116_210431_zpsfwdumsql.jpg

I chose Bride FG rails to mount the seat, as far as I know the lowest sliders available. The downside is that the Cobra seats are flat bottomed (unlike some Recaro's and Bride's), so the seat rails still sat too high for my liking. So I made them lower yet.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160117_031017_zpswu2tj9md.jpg

Here's where they started, with the seats in the lowest hole on the brackets they were still about 2" over the stock seat height. So I made some spacers to hold their position without the seat then made a jig to keep the two seat rails in relation to each other so I could make new, shorter legs for them and not have them come out crooked.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160402_164740_zpsxyqilqua.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160403_183501_zpspiv6n8mo.jpg

I cut off the old legs, made shorter new ones, and dropped the seat rails about 5/8" - 3/4" (as low as they can possibly go and function at all)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160406_001545_zpsrtj2qg2r.jpg

I also changed the lower padding out on the seat for the Cobra Pro-Split, it's the lowest pad they offer and it drops you down about another inch. After both tweaks it put be back where I wanted to be.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160406_125406_zpsz5bplhrj.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160406_125326_zpslncjxics.jpg

For now I still have the stock passenger seat, at some point I would like to replace it with something a little more supportive, but I'm thinking still reclining.

[tricky_ab]

I don't know how I missed this thread originally. Great work on the wiring my man! Seriously, that's quality work.

[MyblackS13]

Thanks for the positive feedback Tricky.
Another fun project from earlier this year on the car was the catch can install. LS engines are notorious for blow by and a catch can is definitely a good idea to help keep the intake tract clean. I went with the Radium Engineering single catch can after seeing it at PRI. The attention to detal on it made it an easy choice, its anodized billet aluminum with a bottom drain, a dipstick to check the level and it threads apart for cleaning.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160311_211513_zpsey9hzwh1.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160311_211521_zpsq8xebcov.jpg

When I received the can they didn't have a LS specific bracket and I had the pleasure of working with them to design and prototype one.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_225013_zpsacsm86zd.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_224942_zpsneyajcke.jpg

I'm going to need to get some pics up with the bracket anodized and the can plumbed in soon. Mine is an early prototype so it looks a little different from what the ended up with, but the version they sell keeps the same position for the can and the same basic design, just minus the logo.

Also, I've made a decision on my new tire size 285/30R18 square, and I received a couple packages this week.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/IMG_20161205_230653_zpsdcicqjqs.jpg

I chose the Federal 595RS-R because they run wide (once they clear, the rest, Yokohama, Dunlop, Ect should clear too) seem to have good reviews, and they're cheap. I also picked up some 5-lug hubs.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20161208_233453_zps4msmievl.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20161208_233502_zpspvswu7g6.jpg

I went with Contano/Tomegun fronts and used 300zx N/A rear, I was strongly considering Ichiba or new S14 OEM for the rear, but the 300zx hub just looks beefier than the others that I had seen.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/s-l500_zpsa6imscti.jpg

They all appear to be thinned in between the wheel studs, like the Ichiba's in the picture, while it's probably ok, I just think you would want all the beef you can get on them.

My next steps are:
Picking out a wheel, I'm going to run something between 18x10 and 18x11, making it fit in the front while maintaining reasonable steering angle, and working out the rest of the details on the body work to fit the extra width in the front and keep the rear proportional.

[Beas]

285 up front as well? no angle kit?

[MyblackS13]

Beas, 285 all around, no angle kit planned, may have to extend LCA's though, hope to avoid tubs if I can. I'm not worried about huge angle since I don't drift, but I don't really want to lose much if any either.

[MyblackS13]

Here's a long update. Since the last post, I've been working on determining the proper offset for the front wheels, preparing for fender flares, and picked out some wheels. For the front wheel offset, I designed a wheel back space tool based on the aluminum ones that the pro-touring guys use. I designed mine in solidworks to be laser cut and fabricated to make it inexpensive and easy to build.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20161230_104801_zpscj98dmb5.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170112_204254_zps0mrdvxv7.jpg

I made 10.5" and 11" "rim" sections with an inner lip to push the bead of the tire out to get a more accurate measurement. The 11" actually pushes the width of the tire carcass from around 11-5/8" to just barely under 12". I have the tire on the tool, mounted on the car with my camber set to about 2.5 degrees.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_203409_zpsvgpyvjou.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_203422_zpsirieoemg.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_205918_zpsm1mpguzd.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_211115_zpsdkvpqmm9.jpg

This is the first position I tried, spring removed, with minimal strut tube clearance, they actually seem to fit best. I still need to disconnect my sway bar to check tub clearance under compression, but I really like this position because the tire doesn't hit the bumper or the back of the wheel well. It also seems to get nearly as much steering angle as my current little 225's which impressed me.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_213617_zpsphibxlco.jpg

I also tried it here, which gave enough strut clearance to instal the spring, but it seemed to lose clearance everywhere else when I turned the wheels. It hit the pinch weld in the back of the wheel well and a little bit of the bumper, I can trim either of those, but I'm also kind of wondering if that much extra scrub radius will be a bad thing. I'm thinking that I will try to get as close to the first position as possible, unless anyone fills me in that that much change in scrub radius is good for handling and driving feel. To maintain the position I want I plan to make extended strut ears, with between 1/2" to 1" of extension. The Cusco's are more difficult to use for clearance because they use a 3" ID spring, since they're inverted shocks, instead of a 2.5" which is standard for coilovers.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170105_190357_zps06pohq18.jpg

I have pieces laser cut for these too, I just need to pick up some DOM tube, weld it together and thread the inside. The 1" extension is shown in the model, I also had 1/2"+ ears made, I'm wishing I just would have done the full range and did 3/4"+ while I was at it for another option. I may make those later if I find that working best, or slot the holes on the 1"+ ears and make some offset washers.

I had some help from a good friend with a photoshop rendering of about what I'm going for with the finished project.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/Sideview_zpsmoowjlas.jpg

I started off with some JP Fiberglass Rocket Bunny style flares, but wasn't feeling all the body work for something that I might not want to keep on the car that long, its been a popular trend for a while and I'm not sure how much longer it's going to stay in favor. Plus I was hoping for the best on the knockoffs, but they were really mediocre at best, the fiberglass was thin and flexible, which is a positive on my book, but there were imperfections around the screw dimples and they aren't gel coated like I've seen on my other fiberglass parts. After seeing Masahiro's S13 I just couldn't get over the cleanliness of metal flares.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/masahiro.s13-1480403227187_zpsiy76lt15.jpg

I'm not into the stance scene for my own car since I want grip and some drive ability, but I love the undeniably clean look and its the inspiration for the new direction on my body work.

Since picking a direction, I've also been getting started on the preparations to make bucks for the flares. So far I've started with these holders.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_220537_zpsqlkdrifa.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_221007_zpstkxpb0u5.jpg

I made them to hold the fender in the same position it sits on the car from MDF, this way it should make it a little easier to make the buck and keep the wheel opening from looking off, at least that's my thinking since I haven't made a sheet metal buck before. I also attempted to 3d scan them with photogramy (Visual SFM and Agisoft Photoscan) software.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/20161219_225707_zpsuajlig09.jpg

It was really cool to see the whole room in 3d and it was pretty amazing what it could do, all things considered, but it has major limitations with smooth objects, the 3d model looked like it was made by a caveman with a hammer on a rock, so it wouldn't work for building off from.

For the wheels I had narrowed down my options to Enkei RPF1's, Work Rezax II, SSR SP3's, and I had searched some to find some used CCW Classics, and I stumbled across a set of used Forgeline GX3/GX3R's on Ebay. They're light, strong, I've seen a lot of positive feedback on them, I like the looks and I haven't seen a 240 with them, so I bought them.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/_3_zpsanmjpa0k.jpg

They're 3pc with hidden fasteners, 18"x9" with 7" backspacing. The plan is to change the lips and barrels to get them to 11" wide and right now I'm estimating a 6" backspace (0 offset). I'm still working on picking out the colors I want to build them in. The faces most likely will be satin bronze, but I haven't decided on the lip color yet, I'm thinking either polished, high gloss/liquid/polished bronze, gloss black, or matte black.

[Flipt86]

This is an awesome build with your attention to detail.. I'm currently putting an L33 with a M12 T56 in my Miata, and was drooling over your simple mechanical reverse lockout. Would you be interested in building another and selling them? If so, I would be interested.

Let me know,
Thanks!

[Malik]

that offset tool is really rad. you could lease that out to people.

[MyblackS13]

Flipt - I would be willing to make another, I actually built it with intentions of selling them as a kit with the low profile reverse switch, but I've noticed the release action softening up on mine and it doesn't work nearly as well now as it did when I first installed it. So I'm planning a redesign once I get a little further on the wheel fitment project.

Malik - I probably could sell them for a little more than the price of a Percy's Wheelrite, with certain limitations, in it's current design its for 1 wheel diameter and 1 width unless there are extra rim sections made, and you have to use a combination square with it to move the two sides the same. It's not too refined, but it definitely works.

- Small update on the thread.

My wheels came in from Ebay yesterday, they look amazing, one draw back, turns out they measured the wheels wrong, they're 17's....not too happy about that. So right now I have the dilemma of sending them back and most likely accepting the fact that Forgelines probably will not be in my budget, or work the seller over for a discount and build them with double step lips. The way I see it is the wheels have 3 strikes on them for the money, 17's, weak offset, works out to like a +50, and a bad barrel, so they're basically a set of 17" faces. I bought them figuring on buying a set of 18" faces. I'm struggling with it since I was super pumped on running Forgelines with their reputation, and I'm not sure if I want to go to a double step, I've seen a few double steps I like, but most remind me of a dog wearing a cone on its head and just look sad. Decisions decisions....

[taeisbeast]

#toomuchsauce

Excellent thread. Great stuff going on here.

[Flipt86]

Flipt - I would be willing to make another, I actually built it with intentions of selling them as a kit with the low profile reverse switch, but I've noticed the release action softening up on mine and it doesn't work nearly as well now as it did when I first installed it. So I'm planning a redesign once I get a little further on the wheel fitment project.

Awesome! I'll check back in on the thread.

Looks like I can PM you now also, so I'll shoot you a PM.

Thanks for the reply.

[MyblackS13]

Updates....

My extended lower brackets for my coilovers are complete and I've tested them for fit. With 1" of extension I lose about 1 degree of camber, so I'm maxed out at 2 with the wheels at full droop, I'll have to see where it goes at ride height, I was looking for around 2 - 3 judging by other grip set-ups. I may end up slotting the top hole or running extended camber plates if I find I need it. Overall I'm pretty happy with the results.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170130_185344_zpspqykcj1c.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170202_170743_zpse39mnnoj.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170204_213705_zpsyqqhantw.jpg

After fitting the extended strut mount I did a little more work with the rim tool to determine backspacing/offset for my wheels. Since my flares will be about the same size as the current rear over fenders the rear was pretty easy.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170204_213239_zpsvr8r95ah.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170204_213304_zpskp4itpfk.jpg

The front has been a lot more difficult to determine. I decided to change out one of the fiberglass fenders for a steel OEM Silvia fender to get a feel for how much flare I'm going to need in the front.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_225751_zpsitwfwncj.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_225817_zpslj6enjx9.jpg

I found that I want to have as much positive offset as I could fit in relation to the strut, the further the wheel went out, the more it would hit when it was turned. I also found that I probably will be tubbing the front for clearance, once the suspension is compressed there isn't much steering angle available before the tires start to hit the outer part of the tub, towards the front of the car. I've settled on 18x11 with a 6.5" backspacing (+12.7 offset) for the front and 18x11 with 6" backspacing for the back (0 offset).
For the wheels, I came to an agreement with the seller on the Forgelines, they knocked off some of the cost since they were 17's instead of 18's so it made the deal pretty hard to pass up. I've decided to try double step lips.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170223_184827_zps7qcp9zut.jpg

4" Front Lips

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/20170223_202830_zpsymufbib3.jpg

4.5" Back

I'm pretty happy with how they look, I'm going to swap the hubs and do some more test fitting then finishing on the wheels. The inners are going to be black hardcoat anodized and teflon coated. But, I'm even more on the fence than before on the lip color since I'm kinda digging the grey color that they are now in the raw.

[ehhhregartless]

Those wheels are far from dog cones

https://media.giphy.com/media/GA2FNpP1kAQNi/giphy.gif

[MyblackS13]

ehhhregartless, I'm definitely liking the direction my wheels are going, I think I saw too many pics of triple steps and slant lips when I was looking up double step wheels. I think the face of the wheel being front mounted helps too.

Also, made a little more progress on the car tonight. Temporarily swapped over a front hub to test fit a wheel.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/SAM_1668_zpsqtrgjf8k.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/Mobile%20Uploads/SAM_1670_zps1cykruog.jpg

Everything looks good for clearance so far (or at least as expected) so I'm going to check a few more things and get some powder coat samples ordered to make some color decisions.

[obscene]

awesome work!

[rtautosport]

What an awesome build, just found this. Goodluck with the continued progress, Ill be watching this one!

[dalecl9]

wish the pictures worked ;/