Buying an S14 - Questions

[Dialga]

Hello Guys.


I am a high school student, who loves S14's. All of my friends love them as well and one of them has an s13 240sx and so does his brother.


I want to get one as well, and I love the s14 , so I have some questions.

First question, I want a daily driver that is somewhat reliable, should I go with KA?

How many miles is good for a daily? How much am I looking to spend on maintaining the car? What are some tips when looking at cars on craigslist?

I am a total noob.

Thanks!

[oni jake]

You should get a job. Your finances tell us the answers to those questions.

[Dialga]

You should get a job. Your finances tell us the answers to those questions.

Money is not a problem for me.

Did you read the thread at all?

LOL.

[Zilmatic]

if money isn't a problem go get a new m5.

[Kingtal0n]

My guide

Im making an unofficial 97 240sx guideline. I think I will make it into a piece of software. I sort of lost interest in it a few months ago but I was thinking of reviving it and building the software while I was at work over the next few weeks.

Just add things to the list that I can include. I wrote this off the top of my head so many things are missing.

Unofficial 240sx diagnosis for purchase flowchart
For all Original Parts
240sx Chassis, 1997-1998 USA

Start preview:
4-lug / Base (will be lighter and faster in the long run) personal preference
5-lug / SE (heavier, spoiler, options) personal preference

How to approach the 5-lug conversion on a 4-lug 240sx:
Many people are selling “5-lug conversions” that cost around $200-$500, but NOT all conversions are equal. You do not want the spindle/bearing from 240sx here in the USA for your conversion due to mileage concerns and brake size. The ideal 5-lug for the front comes from a Japanese S14/S15 Silvia because it will often have low miles and large brakes and the cost is similar to the high mileage tiny brake conversions you find here in the USA.
As to the rear, when the time comes to upgrade the engine, use an S15 sr20det and get the complete subframe from the Japanese S15 silvia to get the 5-lug, low mileage wheel bearings/axles/control arms, and low ratio differential for the six speed transmission. You also get fresh subframe bushings usually.
The idea is to use low mileage OEM components to push the 240sx chassis to 350,000+ miles reliably.
Keep in mind:
Even if the car is already 5-lug, you will usually still desire to change the spindles/brakes/subframe anyways due to mileage related wear and tear. Therefore, being 4 or 5 lug makes little difference when buying a 240sx.

Transmission:
Prefer to buy automatic transmission 240sx. When the time comes to do the swap (the whole point of owning a 240sx is to build a fun, reliable, fast car eventually right?) simply add a clutch pedal and line and stick in the new engine. The reason we prefer to buy automatic is because it loads the chassis in a predictable fashion, and nearly guarantees that nobody had too much "fun" with the chassis before you owned it. In other words it rules out negligence and bent/twisted frame possibilities you may encounter several months down the road when trying to figure out why your car pulls left or right even though the alignment is correct.

/end preview

Body:
-Garage kept status (Good dashboard, unfaded interior, should also have original paint and no unacceptable rust)
Original paint
-Car sat in the sun, paint is original but faded (still a very good thing, because wherever you see original paint, you can bet there has been no body work and thus no accidents.)
-Car sat in the sun, but was repainted (paint job should be a few years old and holding up well. Beware of anything freshly painted)
-Paint job is a few years old but does not seem to be holding up well. Also, paint job was done around the same time the car switched owners. (bad sign. Car might have been wrecked, fixed, painted, sold.

Original engine
-Are you sure ?
All vin tags in place
Missing vintags in order of importance: (Hood, front support, trunk , fenders, doors, bumpers)

Leaking anything besides oil (Transmission, differential; power steering does not count they all should leaking PS or you will be suspicious)

Frame Rails
-Frame rails are good (you can live with it )
-Frame rails are excellent (better than you would hope for or expect DESIRED)
-Frame rails are mint (nearly perfect, no malicious jacking no dents RARE)
Doesn’t leak water into the sides of the trunk (good sign it was never hit in the rear, lights not removed)
-Basically Accident free
-Accident free

Engine and underhood:
All original clips and wiring no modifications
missing some clips that hold down the air intake tube AND more than 100,000 miles
Oil looks clean after an oil change.
-Under valvecover fairly clean (oil is not super bright and clear but there is no oil sludge buildup visible)
-Under valvecover extra clean (no sludge, camshafts clean, no black oil sitting on top of the cam caps)
-No oil leaks (a little from the valvecover is ok)
-No obvious obnoxious silicone protruding from anything (no repairs, original parts)
Original bumper hardware, nothing missing
*Original headlight hardware, original headlight “cut-off” and proper alignment of lights




Engine has:
Under 150,000 miles (2-3 more years of service)
Under 120,000 miles (4-5 more years of service)
Under 75,000 miles (6-7 more years)
Under 50,000 miles (7+ years of service left)

An OEM KA24DE engine should go at least 150,000 miles or more (sometimes 180,000+) without needing any major repair. You should expect to replace it around 180,000-220,000 miles, but some can go even farther.
Minor repairs include: valvecover gasket, water pump/thermo, radiator & hoses, vacuum lines, clutch fan, a/c gas refill)

Chassis has:
200,000-220,000 miles (look for replaced suspension components, check the inner tie rods and shocks)
150,000-200,000 miles (shocks, also check the differential if there is oil in it, and what does it look like)
100,000-150,000 miles: (TC-rods are bad between 60k-120k)
Under 100,000 miles: mostly original suspension parts. Tie rod ends could be halfway shot by 40K.
Under 50,000 miles: very unlikely. Rare.
For all chassis, you would like the inner tie rods to be original and unbent.


Interior
Original carpet is nearly mint (drivers side is almost like new, RARE)
Original carpet in excellent condition (drivers side especially is in good condition with no holes)
Original carpet in good condition (drivers side has a tear from use but overall carpet is nice
Original floormats clean (somewhat rare)
Original uncracked dash (valuable and rare)
Uncracked but somebody changed the dash (original one may have sat in the sun, or the airbag went off)

also look for
All visible electronic components (such as relays and wiring under the dash clearly visible) is OEM/clean
Dash is cracked from the sun or any other reason
Cluster is original and works (carfax verified)
Door locks work
Windows work
Windows seal up nearly completey (drive at 80mph and check for rustling) rare


What generally doesn’t matter:
Interior: Switches, buttons, plastic panels, center console, radio, plastic trim, door panels, speakers, seats, carpet (most of these things are available and affordable)

Exterior: everything matters
Original “Mud Flaps” (flimsy plastic panels around the tires) are intact and all plastic clips are in place (describe) rare


Drivetrain inspection points assuming original parts, check for maintenance of:
steering rack condition (describe)



power steering lines (describe)



sway bar, control arms, all end link rubbers, check for accident / curb contact (describe)



dirt and filth under the hood? Condition of chassis underhood paint including hood and insulation? (describe)



signs of pressure washing or strong solvent use under the hood to remove filth? (describe)



State of “everything else”:
Items such as driveshaft, engine mounts, most brackets, should hold up until you would normally replace them anyways such as during an engine swap. Most OEM 240sx components last as long as the engine. The catalytic converter may be ruined inside due to age and often needs to be replaced.

Rust anywhere? Describe


What often rusts that is not a big deal: exhaust parts and brackets close to the heat of the exhaust. Original Brake master cylinder often rusts. Subframe may develop a very slight surface rust that should appear minimal and slight, especially around the output shafts of the differential. Many bolts and nuts under the hood will develop a slight rust as well. Sunroofs in many 240sx have rust also.


You should restore a protective coat to anything that appears to be actively rusting away. WD-40 is a temporary fix but a permanent solution should be found. If it is a bolt, replace the bolt. If it is a washer or bracket, replace that. The subframe and differential can be changed easily as well.

Trunk area:
Check the corners of the trunk for water. Check under the spare tire for water.
Water In the trunk is often due to leaking rear lights, which often indicates that they have been removed at some point. Sometimes for paint, but other times for accident repair.

Look at the insides of the body panels (quarter panels) for accidents and body work. A quarter panel is very difficult to replace and as such many accidents require body work in that area as opposed to replacement of whole quarter panels.

Check the rear light wiring and make sure all of the clips and loom is intact. The 240sx rear light wiring should not ever be removed and it should survive just fine for 20+ years. Any signs that someone has tampered with the wiring indicate that there was a reason to remove or re-wire the rear lights which may have to do with an accident. Painting the vehicle should not require removal of that wiring.

Remember, we can change the seats, dash(debatable), carpet, door panels, plastic trim, transmission, engine, engine wiring harness, differential, rear subframe, outer tie rods, steering rack bushings, Tension control rods, hubs, windshield, hood, trunk, spoiler, exhaust, most plastic clips, (add more) EASILY.

What we cannot change easily or cheaply (would not want to have to change):
Inner tie rods (preferable), Lower Control arms, headlights, body panels, core support, steering rack (debatable), frame rails, any under car damage and dents, firewall, under dash components, mounting supports/locations for headlights, original bumpers and bumper hardware (debatable), steering shaft, A/C related hardware (besides lines off the compressor), rust or accident damage, factory seam glue

If any of that is damaged or ruined chances are the car is permanently ruined (value drops significantly). Once its been wrecked or hit, yes bodywork can be done, but rarely will anything line up the way it used to, and even if it does, there is no way to truly hide body work from a professional eye unless its all done exactly like the factory does it- Which is possible, but very expensive and rare, which is not likely for a 240sx as the cost of a repair like that would often be more than the car is worth.

[jr_ss]

Hello Guys.


I am a high school student, who loves S14's. All of my friends love them as well and one of them has an s13 240sx and so does his brother.


I want to get one as well, and I love the s14 , so I have some questions.

First question, I want a daily driver that is somewhat reliable, should I go with KA?

How many miles is good for a daily? How much am I looking to spend on maintaining the car? What are some tips when looking at cars on craigslist?

I am a total noob.

Thanks!

You really have no choice but to run the KA unless you can get it inspected/smogged by a ref that looks the other way.

If you can do everything yourself, maitnence will generally be rather cheap.