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View Full Version : Blacktop sr20det redtop 63 ecu SAFC2 need HELP


skyvia686
09-01-2013, 08:04 PM
Ok, mods are:

Blacktop s13sr20det w/ redtop 63 ecu
GT2876r Turbo
Tubular manifold
Blitz BOV
SAFC2
Walbro 255lph
z32 fuel filter
q45 Maf


Problem is this: Clutch pedal mount brakes, ok fix that. Drive it home, all the sudden the wideband goes from normal to pig rich to lean as fuck and dies out then gets back going. the car never died, it was more of a burp from it running so lean. i have replaced the knock sensor, the maf from z32 to q45 maf considering that is the only maf i could find after this problem started. the safc will not tune anything. i set it at 0% the wideband is at around 13.8, i make it go lean stays at 13.8, i go rich it stays at 13.8. i rev the car and it goes to 10.0 or less on the wideband. that is all. idles fine, all that shit. no idea guys. if i can get a diagram of exactly what wires go to where on the safc2 to the ecu plug that would be great. that way i can make sure its wired correctly then determine if the safc has just gone bad.

also. im not all sure of what the ne01 and ne02 settings need to be.

any help at all would be GREAT. thanks guys. been a long time since ive posted here.

and please dont tell me to throw the safc in the garbage. if i could afford going with a powerfc or anything i would but i cant which is why im stuck for that. the wideband is not bad either. it works fine. just replaced the sensor.

Suit
09-01-2013, 08:18 PM
http://apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/safc2_wiring.pdf

have you tried that? were you asking this on the 240 tech page on facebook too?

skyvia686
09-01-2013, 09:07 PM
so i checked all the wiring and its all perfectly fine. still nothing.

skyvia686
09-01-2013, 09:16 PM
ok it says yellow wire goes to signal output. well its going to input on my shit and i switched the yellow and the white, car wouldnt start, switched them back around and it started right up. now this is where i get confused. considering on my pin diagram it shows maf signal wire input number 16 pin and maf sensor ground number 17. wtf? theres no output on the pin diagram anywhere for the maf.

cotbu
09-01-2013, 11:19 PM
The mafs only outputs data, meaning you can't input data to it.
The output on the mafs is the signal wire. The SAFC has an input wire and output wire. The ecu has a mafs pin that is signal input.

The mafs signal output goes to the safc white wire input, yellow wire output goes to the now cut signal wire to the ecu. pin 16

i believe the manual has pictures, ohhh i see their not in color.

I blame the education system!

skyvia686
09-02-2013, 09:57 AM
On my pinout diagram it shows that the no. 16 pin is maf input and no. 17 is the maf ground. nowhere on the diagram does it have maf output which would be signal in which what your saying? now i found all over that on the maf the middle wire is always ground, then you have 12 volt wich always runs outside of ground and signal, and then you have signal on the other side. my maf is black/white stripe: obviously 12v which i did test, Signal which is orange, and in the center? and ground which is white on the other side? this is where i get confused. i tried switching signal and ground, all the car did was run pig rich and run on 2 cyl or 3cyl. not too sure now on the maf and its pinouts. its a q45 maf. i did wire everything correctly. car is running at 12.3 to 12.4 on the wideband and will NOT let me tune it out whatsoever. so i am to believe that it is not a maf wiring problem anymore but the safc is bad? is this possible?

cotbu
09-02-2013, 10:30 AM
http://www.netanimations.net/SPOON-FEEDING-re%20%281%29.gif
You have no clue what i'm saying!:coold:
pin16 on the ecu is the mafs input.
pin17 is the ground. The safc isn't wired to the mafs ground so forget it.
cut the signal wire from the ecu, which is the mafs signal wire input wire pin16.
The wire that goes to mafs is connected to the safc white wire.
The ecu side goes to the safc yellow wire.

that concludes the mafs part of the wiring.:spank:
The q45 mafs has a signal wire and it's white! Not white and black!
Electronics do go bad, but usually it's human error thrown in there somewhere.

skyvia686
09-02-2013, 10:38 AM
actually asshat i did get what you were saying. and it was wired correctly. what i was asking IS is there any way to determine if the safc is bad. i took it out and it will not idle at all. it will rev through but will not idle. when the safc was all wired up it would idle fine but RICH, run RICH AS HELL, BOG OUT, and i CANNOT TUNE THE FUEL MAPPING.

cotbu
09-02-2013, 10:47 AM
what i was asking IS is there any way to determine if the safc is bad. i took it out and it will not idle at all. it will rev through but will not idle. when the safc was all wired up it would idle fine but RICH, run RICH AS HELL, BOG OUT, and i CANNOT TUNE THE FUEL MAPPING.
I'm The asshat, ok i agree. BUT YOU'RE THE ONE USING AN SAFC TOO TUNE HIS/HER CAR!
If that isn't a light bulb moment, it should be!

skyvia686
09-02-2013, 10:55 AM
It came with the car. Did i ask for your opinion on the safc? No. I know countless people with success with them. Me on the other hand? Of course I'm pretty sure this safc fried out. Everything was hooked up correctly, not one wire wasn't making the proper connection. So, with that being said, is it safe to say that the safc took a shit? And now I'm on to the problem of my car not wanting to idle without the safc wired in. Would that be because I am using a q45 maf?

cotbu
09-02-2013, 11:22 AM
1.You swapped wires that didn't need swapping.
2.your car isn't running right.
3.How could i, or anyone say the safc is fried, maybe you fried it when you swapped wires around!
4.yes idiot, running a different mafs without a proper tune, causes those symptoms.
which should have been the whole reason for the safc in the first place.
You may have wiring issues that you overlooked.

cotbu
09-02-2013, 11:24 AM
yeah i fell for it, now i'm 5 post deep in it!

skyvia686
09-02-2013, 11:39 AM
the safc started acting up LONG before i started LOOKING at the wiring.

I was driving home one night and about 15 min in the car would go RICH to LEAN and then BOG out and go back to NORMAL. It would happen periodically, then more and more and more. it began doing it in less than 15 min and around 30 seconds to a min apart. It would stumble and as soon as I gave it more gas it would stop doing it.

skyvia686
09-05-2013, 05:11 PM
Safc, maf, and ecu are fine. Only 3 things I can think of are o2 sensor(which if it were bad it would throw the ecu into a limp mode), cam angle sensor, or throttle position sensor.

When idling the wideband is going bonkers from 14.8 to pegged lean, flyctuating and staying lean. If I give the car gas it goes to normal liw 14 to high 13's for idle. When crusing it does the same thing under low load, nothing past 2200 or 2400rpms, and 1/4 throttle. Once I give it more gas it goes back to normal and pulls like it always did. Sometimes at a stop the motor will choke itself out and die out. It doesnt misfire ever, just boggs when running lean which is a given. Can anyone help me out with this?

Also I have a sohc ka maf wired in correctly, along with the safc2 taken out. No idea why it is still running like this.